Use and Care Manual

Angled Joints/Curves

2525

Angles and curves are a great application

for pocket hole joinery. With other

methods of joinery an angled joint must

by held in alignment for a substantial

amount of time with bar clamps. Uneven

pressure along the joint line can result in

bowing, gaps or misalignment. The

pocket hole joint solves this by putting

constant pressure along the joint line in

the form of screws that pull the two flat

surfaces tightly together.

A typical 45 degree angle such as what

you might find on an angled cabinet face

frame front is traditionally made by joining

two 22-1/2 degree pieces. With pocket

hole joinery this joint is constructed by

cutting the entire 45 degrees on one

workpiece and leaving the other piece as

a 90 degree. These two workpieces are

then aligned flush on their inside edges

which leaves an overhang on the front

side which can be taken off with a jointer,

sander or hand plane once assembled (if

you don’t have a jointer, you can tip your table saw blade to 45 degrees, cut it

close and then finish with a belt sander).

The result of this assembly method is that once the overhang is taken off the

joint line is in effect “shifted” around the corner and hidden from view. The

resulting solid wood corner is more resistant to wear and abuse because the

mitered edges are no longer exposed on the edge. This same concept can be

adapted to any angled joint application.

Angle Components

A. Angled Stile – The workpiece that contains the entire desired angle cut on

one edge.

B. 90 degree Stile – The second workpiece to be joined cut at a 90 degree

angle on both edges.

C. Assembly Jig – A homemade fixture you will want to build that will help hold

the inside edges of the two stiles aligned while the screws are being driven.

Two 22-1/2 deg. pieces.

One 90 and one 45 deg.

before trimming.

Finished 45 degree angle.