Manual

putty’s holding ability is unknown. At some point you
might need to replace it with some fresh putty, so make
sure to keep some on hand in case.
• The pickup can be installed on the inside surface
of the instrument. We have included special VHB
adhesive for this purpose. If you choose this option,
make sure the surface where you install the pickup is
clean of all foreign matter. Also we strongly suggest
that you rst nd the sweet spot for the installation
using the putty on the top of the instrument before
adhering it inside.
4.3 Permanent tailpiece jack installation for
standard or common style mandolin tailpieces:
First remove the jack from the clamping hardware
and de-solder the pickup. Also remove the shielding
cap, at and star washers, and nut from the large
threaded section of the jack. You will only need the
single at washer and nut from the small end of the
jack for this option. Note: there is a 1 meg ohm resistor
R ADIUS
™
I N S T A L L A T I O N M A N U A L
& U S E R S G U I D E
4 8 3 N . F R O N T A G E R D .
N I P O M O , C A 9 3 4 4 4
P H O N E 8 0 5 · 9 2 9 · 3 5 4 5
soldered to the jack between the tip and ground lugs
– it is important for the performance of the pickup to
leave the resistor soldered in place.
• Remove the strap pin and the three mounting
screws holding the metal tailpiece in place.
Remove the tailpiece.
• Drill a 1/2” hole in the tail block, using the strap-pin
hole as a pilot hole.
• Drill or ream out the strap-pin hole in the metal
tailpiece to 3/8” for the small end of the jack to slip
through.
• Attach the jack to the tailpiece as follows: Remove
the nut and washer from the end of the jack, slip
the end through the hole in the tailpiece, then put
the washer and nut back on and tighten the nut to
secure it to the tailpiece. Screw on the strap ring
(See g 3).
• Feed the pickup wire through the F-hole and sh
it out of the hole in the tailblock with a makeshift
hook. You should have about 4 inches of wire to
work with sticking out of the tailpiece. Make sure
you leave the wire long enough to be able to move
it around on the top of the instrument to locate
the sweet spot after the jack has been installed.
• Before you solder, slide the shielding cap over the
wire, back side rst. If you do not want to use the
shielding cap you can shield the connection with
copper shielding tape (if you choose this option
be sure to insulate the hot lead before applying
the shielding tape. Also, for the shielding tape to
be eective solder a small section of it to a portion
of the ground lug on the jack).
• Solder the inner lead wire to the tip lug of the jack
(See g. 3).
• Solder the braided wire to the ground tab of the
jack (See g. 3).
• Shield the connection now by either screwing on
the shielding cap or applying the copper shielding
tape.
• Slide the entire assembly into the hole in the
tailblock, secure the tailpiece with the three
mounting screws, and you’re done.
5. P E R F O R M A N C E R E CO M M E N DAT I O N S
The Radius is a high impedance transducer. Although
it has enough output to drive most ampliers,
or PA line inputs, for best results we recommend
running it through a high quality pre/amp with a
minimum input impedance of 2.2 meg. Ohm. The
Radius is reasonably free fro m feedback in common
environments but any body sensitive transducer
can feed back at high enough SPL levels. If you are
experiencing feedback we recommend either the
Para Acoustic DI or Feedback Master.