Use And Care Manual

SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTION
Hardware
Push button sticks Handle screws may be too tight Loosen handle screws.
Spindle hole too small Enlarge hole. Refer to template.
Spring behind push button may be
reversed. The narrow end may slip in
the hole on the door and not function
properly
Make sure spring behind push button has the wide end against
the door’s surface.
Spindle may not be in center of push
button.
Verify spindle is in center of push button.
Deadbolt will not work or is
stuck in the lock position
Deadbolt is hitting edge of latch rail Might be necessary to chisel out clearance in brick mold to
freely accept the lock. Minimum depth of ¾” is required.
Deadbolt is binding against the brick
mold frame
Drip cap interferes with door
closing
Hinge rail not positioned correctly
or
Factory installed pilot hole not in
proper location or missing
Make sure hinge rail overlaps
the top of the door by 1/16" to
1/8". Once you have the hinge
rail properly placed (1/16" to
1/8" overlap above top of door)
mark, pre-drill hinge screws and
attach to door as instructed in
instructions.
Excess gap between door
and drip cap
Door closes up against the
latch side z-bar at the top or
bottom but the other end or
middle does not touch
Opening is not plumb Shim behind the latch or hinge rail to plumb up opening.
1/16" - 1/8"
TOP OF DOOR
HINGE
RAIL
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTION
General
Door leaking Water getting behind door Caulk behind and around drip cap.
Draining holes blocked Inspect/clean drainage holes located on outside of door below
window.
Door not closing properly Unpainted portion of closer rod
extended too far or not far enough
Adjust door bracket to allow only 1/16" or less of the unpainted
portion of the closer rod to show.
Storm door closer speed improperly
adjusted
Review instruction sheet for proper closer installation. Adjust
screws for more or less speed. Adjust door bracket for more or
less power. NOTE: On two closer door models, adjust each
closer individually (with the other closer disconnected from the
door) If more latch force is desired, the jamb bracket may be
moved up to 1" away from the door.
Mortise latch not lined up with
strike plate.
Align latch and strike plate.
Air pressure between prime and
storm door
Raise expander or leave window open to allow air to escape.
Hinge rail screws may be too tight Loosen hinge rail screws (1/4 turn) to relax tension.
Door opening out of square Shim behind the latch or hinge rail to square up opening.
Expander dragging on threshold Raise expander so that sweeps only touch top of threshold.
Hinge rail is bent or hinge is broken Replace. Contact Larson.
Door will not open to 90 degrees Closer not mounted correctly Review closer instructions for proper closer installation.
Door bracket may need to be moved closer to hinge side.
Heat build up Air is not circulating enough Raise expander or leave window open to allow air to circulate.
Condensation Warm air being trapped between
storm door and primary door
Possible leak around prime door. Check prime door seals and
replace if necessary.
Use a dehimidifer.
Vent storm door (retract glass or raise expander).
Surface of storm door is dirty Manufacturing dust or sealant (glue)
on surface of door
DuraTech
®
Models: Goo Gone
®
Heavy Duty is recommended.
Apply in moderate amounts using a soft cloth. After cleaning,
wipe down with soap and water.
Aluminum surface models: Use SoftScrub
®
or mild cleaner to
clean surface.
Surface of storm door is
cracking or peeling
Weather seal damage may have
occurred
Contact Larson.
There is a gap at the top of
the window opening and air
or light is coming through
Ensure screen is in the door For the best seal, both glass inserts and screen insert must be in
the door.
The glass inserts are reversed Bottom glass is the wider of the two glass inserts. Install it in
the inside track. Top glass is smaller and should be in the track
closest to the screen.
Unable to lower top glass Need to raise the lower glass up first Move the bottom glass all the way up first and then you can get
to finger pulls on bottom of top glass
Glass inserts are loose and
rattling
Ensure screen is in the door. To seal, both glass inserts and screen insert must be in the door.
Water leakage Glass inserts may be reversed Bottom glass is the wider of the two glass inserts. Install it in
the inside track. Top glass is smaller and should be in the track
closest to the screen.
Weep holes may be plugged Inspect and clean the weep holes, which are located on the
outside of door, just below the window area
Can I move screen to top? Most self-storing models are bottom
vent only
Screen or glass may be permanently installed into door frame.
Screen is cut or torn Replace. Contact Larson.
Need to clean operating glass Remove from door Squeeze finger pulls together, raise bottom up and then tilt out.
Water leakage Weep holes may be plugged Inspect and clean the weep holes, which are located on the
outside of door, just below the window area
Multi-Vent
®
Models (full screen and two glass inserts)
Self-Storing Models (half screen and two glass inserts)
Hinge Rail
Latch Rail
Storm doors are not 100% waterproof. They are designed to protect the prime door by slowing the elements.
The prime door is the primary seal for the opening.