Carefully read through all instructions to familiarize yourself with the parts, construction techniques, and tuning tips outlined in this manual. Being able to grasp the overall design of your new XXX-NT Sport RTR II truck before beginning any disassembly process will ensure a successful rebuild. Take your time and pay close attention to detail. Keep this manual for future reference. Service and Technical questions A Division of Horizon Hobby Inc. 4710 E. Guasti Road, Ontario, CA 91761 www.TeamLosi.
WELCOME XXX-NT SPORT OWNER! Thank you for choosing the Team Losi XXX-NT Sport as your vehicle to enjoy the exciting world of nitro powered all-terrain racing. The XXX-NT Sport is the result of hundreds of hours of computer-aided design and on-track testing by our world champion development team. The XXX-NT Sport represents the latest in technology and meets the unique demands of nitro powered off-road racing.
RADIO/ELECTRICAL Refer to the included JR Propo XR2i owners manual for specific technical information. HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION When in question, use the hardware identification guide in each step. For screws, the prefix number designates the screw size and number of threads per inch (i.e., 4-40 is #4 screw with 40 threads per inch of length). The fraction following designates the length of the threads for cap head screws, and the overall length for flathead screws.
BAG A Figure 1 6 5 6 4 Step 1. Place the servo saver bottom (1) over the servo saver post (2) and slide the servo saver bottom all the way against the hex at the opposite end. Be sure that the hex on the servo saver post (2) is inserted into the hex in the servo saver bottom (1). Step 2. Slide the servo saver top (3) down over the servo saver post (2) so that the 'V' area of the servo saver top (3) rests in the 'V' area of the servo saver bottom (1).
BAG A (Continued) Figure 4 17 13 16 17 15 Step 8. Insert a 3/32" x 3/16" plastic bushing (13) into the two large, angled holes in the bottom of the front kickplate (14). Insert the other two bushings (13) into the two outer holes in the steering brace (15). Step 9. Insert a 3/32" x .930" hinge pin (16) through the hole in the steering idler arm (8) and center the pin (16) in the idler arm (8).
BAG A (Continued) Figure 7 11 9 7 11 7 Step 14. Using Table 7C, determine which servo arm (22) is required for your servo. If your particular servo is not listed, try using the arm recommended for another servo made by the same manufacturer. Step 15. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area of the servo arm (22). Thread a 3/16" ball stud (11) through the hole in the arm (22), into the locknut (7), and tighten. Step 16. Plug the servo into the radio system's receiver (not included).
BAG A (Continued) Figure 8 17 23 23 24 Step 17. Use the tables in Figure 7B and 7C (on the previous page) to determine how the servo mounting posts (24) should be attached to the servo (not included). Tip: Trim any flashing from the pins on the mounting posts so that they will seat all the way into the holes in the chassis brace and chassis. Step 18.
BAG A (Continued) Figure 11 Step 22. Attach one end of the rod to the ball stud (11) in the servo arm (22) and the other to the ball stud (11) in the servo saver top (3) as shown in Figure 11. 11 22 Figure 11 Figure 12 28 29 28 Step 23. Press a rubber tank-mounting grommet (28) into each of the three large holes in the top of the chassis brace (29) as shown. The grommets (28) should be centered, top-to-bottom, in the holes of the chassis brace. Figure 12 Figure 13 17 17 23 28 23 Step 24.
BAG A (Continued) Figure 14 20 Step 26. Place the chassis brace (29) on top of the chassis (19). Pay particular attention to the servo posts (24). The pins in the top of the servo posts (24) should fit into the two holes in the chassis brace (29). Once the chassis brace (29) is lined up and in place, secure it to the chassis (19) with six 4-40 x 3/8" flat-head screws (20) as shown.
BAG B Figure 15 29 31 9 9 20 31 32 Step 1. Position the front bulkhead (32) between the front kickplate (14) and the chassis brace (29), as shown in Figure 15. Place a ball stud washer (9) over the two 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screws (31). Secure the front bulkhead (32) to the front kickplate (14) by threading the screws (31) through the holes in the top of the chassis brace (29) through the front bulkhead (32) and into the front kickplate (14). Step 2.
BAG B (Continued) Figure 17 9 17 38 34 38 Step 6. Attach the front shock tower (34) to the front bulkhead (32) with four 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17). The screws (17) thread into the top-most and bottom-most holes in the bulkhead (32). The center holes are not used. 17 IMPORTANT NOTE: The screws in the top of the shock tower must be pointing forward as shown in Figure 17. Step 7. Place a ball stud washer (9) over each of the two 3/8" ball studs (38).
BAG B (Continued) Figure 19 10 7 38 38 42 Step 13. Insert a 3/8" ball stud (38) into the middle hole on top of each spindle carrier (42), (43) from the front as shown, and tighten. 7 IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the ball studs! Step 14 . Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area in the top of each spindle (40), (41). Thread a 1/4" ball stud (10) into the nut from the bottom of the spindle (40), (41) and tighten. 10 Figure 19 Figure 20 46 50 51 49 Step 15.
BAG B (Continued) Figure 21 21 53 21 49 Step 20. Hold the chassis assembly upside down. Place the front pivot block (49) over the front edge of the front kick plate (14) as shown in Figure 21. The front lip of the front bulkhead (32) should be positioned in the space between the front pivot block (49) and the aluminum hinge pin brace (52). Step 21.
BAG B (Continued) Figure 24 54 55 55 54 Step 25. Thread a long plastic rod end (54) onto each end of a 2-1/4" turnbuckle (55). Tighten both rod ends (54) equally until the rod is the same length as the rod in Figure 24A. Make two of these tie-rod assemblies. Figure 24 Figure 24A Figure 25 Step 26. Snap one end of a completed tie rod assembly to the ball stud (11) in the steering idler arm (8). Snap the other end to the ball stud (10) in the right spindle (40).
BAG C Figure 26 7 57 7 Step 1. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area of the diff nut carrier (57). The thread-locking portion of the nut (7) should be to the outside. Figure 26 Figure 27 58 23 57 23 59 Step 2. Locate the 5/64" Allen wrench (59) supplied with the kit. Place the diff nut carrier (57), nut side first, over the Allen wrench (59). Step 3. Slide the #4 washer (23) over the wrench up against the diff nut carrier (57). Step 4.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 30 63 63 65 65 Step 7. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bearing (63) into the center of the diff gear (64). Step 8. Press a 3/32" carbide diff ball (65) into each of the small holes in the diff gear (64). 64 IMPORTANT NOTE: There are two sets of diff balls in Bag C. Be certain to use the slightly larger balls that are packaged alone (12 total) in Figure 30, Step 8. There is a second set of eight 5/ 64" balls packaged with washers in the bag. These balls will be used in Figure 32.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 33 63 61 63 61 Step 15. Locate the smallest of the Allen wrenches (59) and place it through the slot in the outdrive/diff half (66) containing the diff screw (67). Slide the wrench all the way against the screw (67). By handling the outdrive/diff half (66) with the wrench inserted, the diff screw (67) will be held in place while finishing assembly of the differential. Step 16. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bearing (63) into the female outdrive/diff half (66).
BAG C (Continued) Figure 35 73 72 Step 23. Locate the slipper shaft (73) and thread the 4-40 x 1" setscrew (72) all the way into the threaded side of the slipper shaft (73). Make sure that the setscrew (72) is TIGHT! *NOTE: Some top gear/slipper shaft assemblies may be preassembled from the factory. Tip: A small amount of liquid thread-lock should be used to help to hold the setscrew securely in place. If your slipper shaft was preassembled at the factory, thread-lock compound has already been applied.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 38 82 80 80 81 Step 30. Insert two 3/16" x 3/8" sealed bearing (80) into the two top bearing seats of the right gearbox half (82). *NOTE: If any of the supplied gearbox bearings only have one Teflon™ seal(colored, woven looking) in it, position the seal to the outside of the gearbox half. Step 31. Insert a 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (81) into the lower bearing seat of the right gearbox half (82). 81 Figure 38 Figure 39 PRE-TAP THESE HOLES 83 80 81 Step 32.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 41 80 77 83 Step 38. Insert the brake shaft (77) through the 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (80) in the left gearbox half (83), aligning the teeth of the compound gear (79) with the diff gear (64) and top gear (75) as you do. 79 Figure 41 Figure 42 85 86 87 83 82 Step 39. Apply a thin coat of white assembly grease (71) along the inside edge of the left gearbox half (83). This will help seal the gearbox once it is assembled. Step 40.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 43 93 95 94 Step 44. Slide the slipper backing plate (89) over the slipper shaft (73), aligning the flat sections on the slipper shaft (73) with the flat sections of the backing plate (89). Step 45. Place the slipper pad (90) on one side of the spur gear (91) and align the notches on the spur gear (91) with the notches on the slipper pad (90). Step 46. Place the spur gear (91), pad side first, over the slipper shaft (73).
BAG C (Continued) Figure 44 27 78 78 96 77 27 Step 52. Press the .078" x 3/8" spirol pin (78) into the hole in the end of the brake shaft (77) so that it extends evenly from both sides of the shaft (77). Step 53. Slide the brake hub (98) over the brake shaft (77). Align the groove in the brake hub (98) with the pin (78) and slide the hub (98) over the pin (78). Step 54.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 46 102 Step 59. Slide a brake lever clip (101) over the brake lever (102) flange side first. Slide the clip (101) all the way up the brake lever (102) to the sharp bend. Step 60. Slide the other brake lever clip (101) over the end of the brake lever (102) with the flange side facing away from the first brake lever clip (101). 101 IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure brake lever clips are oriented in opposing directions with the flanged sides facing apart as shown.
BAG C (Continued) Figure 48 104 105 Step 65. Thread a 8-32 x 1/8" set screw (105) into each of the two holes in the front of the rear pivot block (104). Thread the set screws (104) into the holes until the ends of the set screws just bottom out on the step indside the holes. 105 Figure 48 Figure 49 104 20 Step 66. Position the rear pivot block (104) on the rear of the chassis (19) with the set screws (105) forward, and the word 'TOP" visible at the front of the pivot block.
BAG D Figure 51 17 106 17 Attach the dogbones (107) to the plastic universal yokes (106) by lining up the slot on the dogbone (107) with the groove in the universal yoke (106). Secure the two pieces with a 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screw (17). Tip: A small amount of thread-lock compound should be used on the threads of the 4-40 x 3/8" screws to help keep them tight. 107 Figure 51 Figure 52 110 108 110 109 Step 2.
BAG D (Continued) Figure 54 38 114 115 116 38 117 109 56 Step 5. Thread a 3/8" ball stud (38) into the outer hole in the right rear hub (112) from the side opposite the letter ('L' and 'R') designating left and right. Place a "foam thing" (56) over the ball stud (38). Step 6. Press a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (114) into the inside of the rear hub (112). Slide the rear axle (109), from the inside, through the bearing (114). Step 7.
BAG D (Continued) Figure 56 122 Step 15. Position the right rear arm (118) inside the rear pivot block (104) and line up the holes in the arm with the holes in the pivot. Slide a rear inner hinge pin (122) through the pivot block (104) and rear arm (118) all the way in until the pin (122) rests against the set screw in the front of the pivot block (104). Step 16. Repeat step 15 for the left rear arm (119). 104 122 118 Figure 56 Figure 57 35 33 35 33 38 123 Step 17.
BAG D (Continued) Figure 58 31 31 9 9 Step 19. Place the rear shock tower (123) over the rear of the gearbox assembly (82)(83) so that the top holes line up. Place a gold ball stud washer (9) over each of the 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screws (31). Secure the rear shock tower (123) to the gearbox (82)(83) by threading the 440 x 1/2" screws (31), with washers (9) attached, throught the tower (123) and into the gearbox (82)(83). 123 82 83 Figure 58 Figure 59 124 54 124 Figure 59A Step 20.
BAG D (Continued) Figure 60 123 Step 21. Attach one end of the rear camber link assembly from Step 19 to the ball stud (38) in the right rear hub (112) and the other end to the ball stud (38) in the rear shock tower (123). Tip: Remember to attach the turnbuckles so that the threads are in the same direction on all your linkages. Step 22. Repeat Step 20 for the left side of the truck. *NOTE: It's a good idea to leave your truck sitting on a flat surface until the shocks are assembled and installed.
BAG E Figure 62 126 129 128 128 Step 1. Place one shock O-ring (126) into the cartridge body (127), making sure that the O-ring (126) sits flat on the bottom of the cartridge body (127). Step 2. Insert the cartridge spacer (128) into the cartridge body (127) followed by a second O-ring (126). Step 3. Once the second O-ring (126) is inserted, and is flush with the top of the cartridge body (127), “snap” the cartridge cap (129) onto the cartridge body (127). Step 4. Make four cartridge assemblies.
BAG E (Continued) Figure 64 133 134 134 Step 6. Using needle nose pliers, or small vise grips, grasp the front shock shaft (130) between the grooves and thread a shock end (133) onto the shaft (130). Thread the shock end (133) all the way onto the shaft (130). Step 7. Repeat Step 6 for the second front shaft (130) and both rear shafts (131). Step 8. Carefully snap a 1/4" swivel ball (134) into the two shock ends (133) on the shorter, front shock shafts (130) only.
BAG E (Continued) Figure 66 131 130 Step 13. Match the short, front shock bodies (137) to the short, front shafts (130), and the long, rear shock bodies (138) to the long, rear shafts (131). Step 14. Fill the shock body (137), (138) with shock fluid (132) up to the bottom of the threads. Step 15. Insert the shaft assembly into the shock body (137), (138) with the shock piston (135)(136) pulled up against the cartridge. Slowly tighten the cartridge approximately two full turns.
BAG E (Continued) Figure 68 138 33 142 142 95 95 Step 22. Make sure that the dogbones are in the outdrives (47) before continuing. Step 23. Attach the bottom of a rear shock (the longer of the two shocks) to the right rear arm (118) by snapping the shock end (133) over the the shock mount swivel ball (134) that is already attached to the right rear arm (118). Step 24. Slide a short shock mount bushing (142), large side first, over the screw (33) on the right side of the rear shock tower. Step 25.
BAG F Figure 70 115 114 150 149 Step 1. Inspect the inside of the tires [front (144), rear (145)] for any excess material. If present, trim excess rubber to ensure proper seating of the tires on the wheels [front (147), rear (148)]. *NOTE: Do not set tires on furniture as they may leave permanent stains. Step 2. Insert foam tire liners (146) into the front tires (144). Pull the front tires (144) over the front wheels (147) so that the angled ribs are on the solid side of the wheel (outside).
ENGINE INSTALLATION NOTE: The following steps are shown with a “Side” Exhaust Engine. Other than the header, all mounting of a “Rear” Exhaust Engine is the same. Figure 71 151 152 151 Step 1. Thread a clutch pin/screw (151) into each of the small holes in the flywheel (152) and tighten with a .050" Allen wrench. The screws should be inserted from the rear as shown. Tip: A small amount of thread-lock compound should be used on the threads of the clutch pins. Figure 71 Figure 72 Step 2.
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 74 Step 5. Hook the two ends of the clutch spring (156) together to form a loop as shown. Stretch the looped spring (156) over the two clutch shoes (157) so that the clutch shoes (157) form a circle. Make sure that the holes in the clutch shoes are on opposite sides of the circle as shown 156 IMPORTANT NOTE: Th clutch shoes may come in a single piece, and must be completely separated to operate properly. Bend the shoes along the cut and pull the two halves apart.
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 77/78 Note: Pull Start engine shown. Rear exhaust engine mounts the same. 162 9 162 9 Step 12. Place a ball stud washer (9) over the four 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screws (31). Insert a 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screw (31) through the four holes in the engine as illustrated. Step 13. Attach the engine to the engine mounts (164) by threading the four screws (31) into the four holes shown.
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 79 Step 14. Install the carburetor to the engine as per the instructions supplied with the engine. The carburetor throttle arm should be on the left side of the engine as shown. Check that the arm has equal throw from center. If the arm rotates more in one direction, loosen the nut securing the arm and re-position the arm.
ENGINE INSTALLATION Figure 80/81 (Continued) 169 169 Step 19. Insert a 4-40 x 1" cap-head screw (169), from the left, through each of the two holes in the middle of the engine. Step 20. Wet your finger with water and lightly moisten the exhaust port gasket (170) and slide it in place over the exaust port of the engine. Step 21. Position the aluminum exhaust header over the exhaust port on the motor and align the holes in the header flange (171) with the screws (169).
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 83 Step 25. Adjust the gear mesh between the clutch bell gear (159) and the spur gear (91) by sliding the engine mounts (164) in the slots of the chassis (19). In order to function properly, the gears should be as close as possible, but still have a small amount of backlash (space between the gear teeth). You should be able to rock one gear back and forth slightly while holding the other one steady.
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 86/87 Note: Side Exhaust engine shown. Step 34. Rotate the tuned pipe (175) so that the stinger points down slightly. Secure the tuned pipe (175) to the coupler (174) by wrapping an 8" tie strap (180) around the coupler (174), and the pipe (175), and tightening. Step 35. Secure the coupler (174) to the header (171) by wrapping an 8" tie strap (180) around the coupler (174) and header (171) and tightening. Cut off the extra length from both tie straps (180).
ENGINE INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 88 30 Step 36. Cut an 11" (280mm) length of fuel tubing (176) from the piece supplied. Step 37. Cut one end of the 11" piece of tubing at a 45o angle as shown in Figure 88A. Install the uncut side of the tubing to the forward fitting on the top of the fuel tank (30). Step 38. Wind the tubing into two small loops and insert them into the rectangular slot in the chassis brace (29) as shown.
RADIO INSTALLATION Figure 90 Step 1. Cut a piece of two-sided tape (182) to the same size as the bottom of the receiver. Remove the backing from one side of the tape (182) and attach the tape (182) to the bottom of the receiver. Tip: For best results clean the surfaces that the two-sided tape will be attached to with a mild rubbing alcohol. This will ensure a good, strong bond. Allow the surface to fully dry before attaching the tape. Step 2.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 92 186 187 187 185 Step 8. Place the battery pack into the battery box (125), so that the power lead is to the right side of the chassis. Cut two small pieces of the battery spacer foam (185) to fit inside the battery box (125) on each side of your battery pack. The foam (185) should fit tightly between the battery pack and the sides of the battery box (125) to prevent the battery pack from moving around inside the box while running your truck. Step 9.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 94 31 Rotary Valve Carburetors 23 23 31 Step 13. Attach the grommets (supplied with your radio system) to the throttle servo per the radio system instructions. Step 14. Route the servo lead and plug through the slot in the bottom of the forward servo mount (188) and plug it into the slot marked "Channel 2" or "Function 2" in the receiver. Step 15.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 96 Step 17. Remove the two small screws from the switch (supplied with radio system). Place the switch, from the bottom, into the switch mount (189). Step 18. Place the switch top plate (if applicable) over the switch, on top of the switch mount (189). Line up the holes in the switch with the holes in the top plate and secure the switch to the switch mount (189) with the two screws from the switch. Step 19.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Rotary Valve Carburetors If your engine comes equipped with a rotary valve carburetor, complete the steps in Figure 98 through Figure 104. If your engine comes equipped with a slide valve carburetor, skip ahead to page 47 and complete the steps in Figure 105 through Figure 111. Figure 98 193 192 193 195 191 Step 24.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Rotary Valve Carburetors Figure 100 190 Step 30. For rotary valve carburetors, you will need to remove the straight, shorter arm of the throttle servo horn (190), as shown in Figure 100. Cut off the arm with heavy duty clippers or a DremelTM hobby tool. Figure 100 Figure 101 Step 31. Determine which throttle servo spline insert (200) will fit your throttle servo by referring to the table on page 3, Figure 7C. Step 32.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Rotary Valve Carburetors Figure 103 192 193 193 Step 35. Install the throttle linkage Z-bend wire (191) in the top hole of the throttle arm so that the wire is positioned on the side of the arm toward the engine. Step 36. Press the throttle servo horn (190) and throttle servo spline insert (200) onto the output shaft of the servo, and secure it with the screw included with your servo.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Slide Valve Carburetors If your engine comes equipped with a slide valve carburetor, complete the steps in Figure 105 through Figure 111. Figure 105 193 193 192 Step 24. Thread the 4mm ball cup (204) all the way onto the end of the threaded throttle rod (203). Slide a linkage collar (192) over the other end of the throttle rod (203), and up against the ball cup (204). Secure the collar (192) with a 4-40 x 1/8" set screw (193). Step 25.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Slide Valve Carburetors Figure 107 190 Step 30. For slide valve carburetors, you will need to remove the shorter, perpendicular arm of the throttle servo horn (190), as shown in Figure 107. Cut off the arm with heavy duty clippers or a DremelTM hobby tool. Figure 107 Figure 108 Step 31. Determine which throttle servo spline insert (200) will fit your throttle servo by referring to the table on page 3, Figure 7C. Step 32.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Slide Valve Carburetors Figure 110 192 193 193 Step 35. Snap the 4mm ball cup (204) onto the ball on the carburetor. Make sure the ball is pointing toward the right side of the truck and slightly upward. Step 36. Press the throttle servo horn (190) and throttle servo spline insert (200) onto the output shaft of the servo, and secure it with the screw included with your servo. Be sure the servo output shaft is centered and the servo horn is aligned properly, as shown.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Figure 112/113 Step 42. Turn your transmitter switch on followed by the receiver switch (or plug in the extension wire if not using a switch). Step 43. Move the transmitter throttle control to full throttle. The throttle servo should open the carbuertor and push backward on the brake lever. If the servo rotates the wrong direction, refer to your radio manufacturer's instructions for reversing the servos. Step 44.
RADIO INSTALLATION (Continued) Step 48. Move the steering control on the transmitter to the right. The tires on the truck should turn to the right. If not, refer to your radio manufacturer's instructions for reversing the servos and correct the steering servo. Step 49. Without touching the transmitter the front tires should be pointing straight. Slight adjustments can be made with the trim adjustments on the transmitter.
FINAL ASSEMBLY Figure 114 Step 1. Trim the body (205) along the trim lines as shown. Cut out the areas indicated on the front and side windows to allow easy access to the fuel tank. Cut out the area behind the cab to allow for cooling and access to the engine. Step 2. Make three 5/16" (8mm) diameter holes in the areas on the windshield and hood of the body (205) that are marked with dimples or small circles. Step 3.
FINAL CHECKLIST BEFORE RUNNING YOUR XXX-NT SPORT for the first time, you should run down the following checklist — in order — and complete the listed tasks. This simple checklist will help to make the first run much more enjoyable. 6. Adjust the camber The front camber should be set to 1-1/2 degrees of negative camber (top of tire points in) at ride height. Adjust the front camber with the tires straight. The rear camber should be set to 1-2 degrees of negative camber at ride height. 7.
ATTACHING THE RECEIVER to the center brace with self adhesive hook and pile material (like Velcro brand) can help absorb the shock and vibration that is transmitted through the chassis by the engine. This type of material can be found at most hobby shops and yardage stores. This can also help prevent glitching and increase the life of your receiver. Simply attach the hook material to the center brace with the selfadhesive backing on the back on the material.
negative camber can make the truck respond quicker on some tracks with hard packed surfaces. The rear camber is used to help the truck drive through bumps in corners a little better. Generally, run between one and two degrees of negative camber at ride height. More negative camber will make the truck drive through bumps better, but you will usually lose a little straight line rear traction. FRONT TOE-IN and TOE-OUT is fully adjustable by changing the length of the tie rods.
SPARE PARTS LIST KEY # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 KIT/PART DESCRIPTION Servo saver bottom Servo saver post Servo saver top Servo saver spring Servo saver spring cap 6-40 locknut 4-40 mini locknut Steering idler arm Ball stud washer 1/4" ball stud 3/16" ball stud Steering drag link 3/32" x 3/16" plastic bushing Front kickplate Steering brace 3/32" x .
SPARE PARTS LIST KEY # 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 KIT/PART DESCRIPTION Diff coil spring Allen wrenches Male outdrive Drive Ring Clear diff grease 5mm x 8mm bearing 55 tooth diff gear 3/32" diff balls Female outdrive Diff screw Foam Diff Seal Thrust washer 5/64" thrust bearing balls White thrust bearing grease 4-40 x 1" setscrew Slipper shaft 5/16" x
SPARE PARTS LIST KEY # 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 KIT/PART DESCRIPTION Inner axle spacer Outer axle spacer 1/16" x 7/16" pin Rear arm right Rear arm left Rear hub spacer Suspension swivel ball Rear inner hinge pin Rear shock tower 2.
SPARE PARTS LIST KEY # 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 207 208 KIT/PART DESCRIPTION 5-40 x 1/2" flat-head screws Silicone exhaust coupler tubing Tuned pipe Fuel tubing Pipe mounting bracket 3/8" Silicone tubing Aluminum stinger sleeve 8" tie-strap Compound gear bushing Two-sided tape (thick) Antenna tube Antenna cap Battery spacer foam Battery box lid 2-56 x 1/2" button head screw Throttle servo mount Switc
Setup Sheet Track: ! Indoor ! Smooth ! Slippery ! Hard Packed ! Outdoor ! Rough ! High-Bite ! Loose/Loamy ! Blue-Groove ! Wet ! Tight ! Dry ! Open Weather: _________________ Driver: Date: FRONT SUSPENSION ! In (Circle or Check the Appropriate Settings) o ! Outside ! Inside # of washers under steering / tie-rod ball studs Toe ! Out !1 !2 !3 !4 Spindle ball stud: Ride Height # of washers under ball stud Bellcrank ball stud: !– Camber ! + o ! Stock o Back ! ! No Sway Bar ! Yes !A !B !C Se
Setup Sheet Track: ! Indoor ! Smooth ! Slippery ! Hard Packed ! Outdoor ! Rough ! High-Bite ! Loose/Loamy ! Blue-Groove ! Wet ! Tight ! Dry ! Open Weather: _________________ Driver: Date: FRONT SUSPENSION Toe ! In ! Out (Circle or Check the Appropriate Settings) o !1 !2 !3 !4 ! Outside ! Inside # of washers under steering / tie-rod ball studs Spindle ball stud: Ride Height # of washers under ball stud Bellcrank ball stud: Camber !– !+ o ! Stock o Back ! ! No Sway Bar ! Yes !A !B !C Ser
