Installation Guide
Malibu Wide Plank T&G Install Instructions Page 6 of 8
• Snap a chalk line connecting the two marks. Tack down fern strips or carpet tack strips along the chalk line.
• Install the first row of flooring against the tacked wood strips.
• The flooring should be installed from left to right, tongue side towards the wall, with the groove side facing out from the wall.
• Install the first row end to end until the entire row is complete. Be sure to use PVA carpenters wood glue on all plank butt ends.
• When edge-gluing, ensure that the glue is still wet when the planks are joined. Special attention should be paid to ensure that
there is no excess glue dripping to the subfloor as this could bond the plank to the underlayment and hamper floor movement.
A lightly water dampened rag can also be used to remove any PVA glue.
• Next, install the second row of planks, installing left to right. Each plank should be installed long side first into the previous row.
Make sure carpenters PVA wood glue is applied to all tongue and groove seams. Insert a spacer at the wall, then install the long
side of the plank into the previous row. Once the tongue is inserted into the groove fold the plank down onto the subfloor. The
butt ends will be lightly tapped over from right to left to close the end seams. Be sure to keep a minimum stagger of 6” between
end seams from row to row. Use a pry bar to close the end seam of the last plank installed in each row.
• After installing 4 or 5 rows apply #2080 blue painters tape to the plank surface perpendicular to the installed floor. This is
used to hold the planks together until the glue cures(incorrect tape can damage the finish).
• Continue installing the flooring until you reach the opposite wall in the room. The last row of flooring by the wall may need to
be ripped down to fit. Make sure you have proper expansion space between the last installed row and the wall.
• Go back to the first row of flooring, remove the fern strip or tack strip and insert the final row of flooring to complete the
room installation. Make sure proper expansion is left between the floor and wall.
• Remove the blue painters tape after 8 to 10hrs.
• To pass obstacles through the floor covering(pipes, radiator mounts), use a pencil to trace the center position for drilling. Use a
big enough drill bit to leave a ½” expansion around the pipe. A jig saw may be needed for bigger rounded cuts. Next, cut the
strip in two so that the saw mark goes through the center of the drilled hole, so that the strip can be glued and reassembled
around the pipe.
Post-installation
• After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and heavy foot traffic.
• Protect flooring before moving any heavy furniture or appliances(damages from furniture and appliances are not covered).
• Fill in minor gaps with close matching wood filler.
• Check for adhesive on floor finish and remove with appropriate adhesive manufacture remover.
• For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.
• Clean floor with an approved floor cleaner.
Radiant Heat Systems
• The radiant heat system must have been tested and in operation for a few weeks prior to installation.
• The radiant heating system needs to be turned off prior to installation and the floor needs to be close to room temperature
65 to 75 degrees. If the radiant heat pipes are visible or exposed in the subfloor, you must cover them with 3/8” plywood to
spread heat more evenly.
• After the flooring is installed, slowly raise the temperature to the preferred comfort level (over at least a 5 day timeframe)
beginning two days after installation or at the onset of colder weather conditions.
• The radiant heat system must be controlled and the surface temperature of the flooring must never be allowed to exceed 85°F.
• Proper relative humidity must be maintained within your home at all times during the year. For best results and to minimize
seasonal gaps keep indoor humidity between 30% to 50% RH. If you are in an arid part of the USA or Canada, it is
especially imperative that you use a humidifying system to maintain this moisture in the air.
• Forced air heating system also can dry out the air inside your house much more than you might imagine, so use of a
Relative Humidity meter (Hygrometer) is recommended to ensure you know when you must use a humidifier to keep the
relative humidity above 30%.