User's Manual
13
troubleshoong
NO POWER, NO INDICATORS - Check the IEC cable is plugged in rmly. The Switch Mode PSU may be in
protecon mode, try turning the PSU OFF, wait 2 minutes then switch on again. Check the fuse on the back
panel. A blown fuse oen looks black inside, and an open fuse measures OPEN on a mulmeter. Try replacing the
fuse with one of the same value and size. If it blows then prepare to send the unit back to the dealer or factory
for repair. The fuse is a protecon device and it should blow if there is a problem.
LIGHTS, BUT NO SOUND - This typically indicates a cabling problem. Check to ensure the XLR microphone
cables you are using are not damaged. If the XLR and microphone preamp (and the rest of the signal path) are
known to be good, the microphone capsule wire may be broken, or the tube may have gone bad.
LEVELS SEEM TO BE WRONG, NO BOTTOM - Most likely one of two scenarios. One, a parally broken cable.
You would then be missing half the balanced signal and levels would be down approximately -6dB. Second
possibility, the signal’s polarity has been reversed somewhere. Try ipping the phase on your microphone preamp
(if it has a phase switch), and see if that helps. Put on some headphones, close your eyes, and speak into the
microphone from a distance of about one foot. Your voice should be full and clear with a solid low-end. With the
phase reversed, this solidity goes away and your voice will sound like it is lacking bass.
HUM - This is most likely a ground loop. It is possible to use a “mains cheater” 3-pin to 2-pin adapter with its
ground separated, or to remove the internal ground li jumper on the PSU. See the SERVICING secon of this
manual (page 14) for this procedure.
BUZZ - If the buzz goes away when you hold the microphone, this is most likely a faulty ground somewhere in
the chain. Make sure all the philips screws holding the microphone body to the microphone base are ght. Older
models might have loose set screws (grub screws) that hold and ground the connectors to the body system.
These set screws for the connectors are located in the base of the mic. To access them, rst remove the 2 (or 3
in very old mics) Philips at head screws and slide the body up towards the capsule to reveal them (see page 14
for details on how to safely do this). Look in the holes and use a 1/16” hex allen key to loosen and ghten the set
screws. Finally, a “buzz” might also be indicave of a bad / noisy tube - in that case, please refer to page 14.
EXCESS NOISE, DISTORTION, SNAPS CRACKLES & POPS - Most likely a tube; please refer to page 14.