Instructions / Assembly
Figure 12: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit (Points A in
Figure 12).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the door on the latch side (Point B in Figure 12). Install
shims until there is a consistent
1
⁄
8
” gap between the top of the door slab
and the frame header.
Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 12). This will hold
the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door should
operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until 2
1
⁄
2
”
screws have been installed. (Points D, E, F & G in Figure 12).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that
the weather-stripping on the latch side is evenly compressed
along the entire height of the door slab without any pinching or
gaps (see Figures 9 and 10).
Figure 13: Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door (Points A).
3
B
F
G
G
F
A
C
E
E
D
A
X
PLEASE NOTE: Failure to install this unit in accordance with
architect, design professional or product manufacturers instructions will
have a direct effect on the units performance and/or long term wear.
Installer shall be experienced in performing work required and shall be
specialized in installation work similar to that required for this project.
Warranty claims are subject to site inspections by a qualified
manufacturer’s representation to establish probable cause and proposed
corrective action.
Critical Point: Although all steps are critical, this symbol
identifies procedures requiring extra attention.
Check Your Work: This symbol identifies when the work should
be checked for correctness before continuing with installation.
Figure 1: A clean, level, solid sub-floor area is essential to successful
installation.
Ensure that the following conditions are met:
Clean, clear work area
• The rough opening (RO) is ideally 1” wider and 1/2” taller
than the outside frame dimensions of the door unit. Units
intended for installation in high velocity windstorm markets
require less clearance between unit and RO (1/4” sides & top).
• The RO is plumb, square and level
• The old door frame has been completely removed in retro-fit
installation
• The sub-floor area is clean, dry and level
• The existing sub-floor area is at least 6” deep for 4-9/16”
frames and at least 8” deep for 6-9/16” frames.
Because a solid, level sub-floor is absolutely essential for proper
door unit installation, do not proceed with the installation until
the sub-floor is both solid and level.
Figure 2: Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the width of the sill.
Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.
Figure 6: Place the sill in the opening first and then tilt the door up into the
opening.
Figures 7 and 8: The exterior trim (brickmould) rests up against exterior
sheathing or slides into the opening of exterior brick.
Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the exterior side of
the door unit facing you, tilt the door unit toward you (Figure 6). The
brickmould (not supplied with all units) should rest up against the
siding of the exterior wall (Figure 7) and should slide into the RO of a
brick home (Figure 8).
If door unit is supplied without a clip or plug holding door
aligned and closed, do not leave the door wide open during
installation. The weight of the door may cause it to fall and
cause injury.
Figure 16: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom of the unit (Points A in Figure 16).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the frame (at Points B in Figure 16). Install shims until
there is a
1
⁄
8
” gap between the top of the door slabs and the frame header.
This will hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The
door should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until 2
1
⁄
2
”
screws have been installed. (Points C, D, E & F in Figure 16).
Door panels with glass inserts may sag toward the center. This is
normal. To correct sagging, align the flush bolts on the fixed door with
clearance in the header and sill. Most units do not have pre-drilled holes
in the header and sill. Holes
must be drilled. Slide top
flush bolt up against header
and bottom bolt down
against threshold to mark.
Mark where bolts make
contact with header and sill
with pencil. Drill holes on
marks to receive bolts (1
1
⁄
2
”
deep minimum). Once holes
are drilled, close panel and
engage bolts making sure
they extend far enough to
secure unit. If there is a
gap between the
For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a straight
vertical plane and is not twisted. Check alignment using this
method: Stand on the outside of the door. Check that the
weatherstripping on the latch side is evenly compressed along
the entire height of the door slab without any pinching or gaps
(Figures 9 and 10).
Figures 9 and 10: The weatherstripping on these doors is not evenly
compressed.
Figure 11: Screws are installed
through the jamb, shims and into the
2x wood studs or bucking.
Instructions vary according to door type. Confirm which door type is
being installed. some door styles not available in all markets.
For single door unit, use Step 5A. For double door unit, use Step 5B.
For single door unit with one or two sidelites, use Step 5C.
After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing screws
through the jambs, shims and into the stud (Figure 11).
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Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 12) approximately
8” from the top and bottom of the frame. Install shims until there is
an even
1
⁄
8
” gap between the jamb and the edge of the door slab along
the door. Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points G in Figure 12) just
above and below the dead bolt hole, maintaining the
1
⁄
8
” gap (Figure
14). Pull the weatherstripping away from the jamb (Points F on Figure
12) and screw 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws (by others) through the jamb and
shims into the stud (Figure 15).
Figure 15: Install
screws underneath the
weatherstripping.
When the shims are
properly installed, the
frame should not move or
twist at all when the screws
are tightened and
counter-sunk thereby
maintaining the
1
⁄
8
” gap.
If there is any movement,
loosen the screws and shim
tighter to maintain the
1
⁄
8
”
gap, then re-tighten the
screws.
Figure 14: Shims are placed above and
below the dead bolt hole (points G in
figure 12).
Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door slab.
With the door closed and from the inside shim directly behind the
vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D and E in Figure 12)
until there is a consistent
1
⁄
8
” gap between the hinge-side jamb and the
door slab edge along the entire height of the door. Gap between the
latch-side jamb and the door slab edge should be
1
⁄
8
” at the top and
bottom of the door only. Drive one of the 2
1
⁄
2
” screws supplied through
the vacant hole in each hinge, through the jamb, shims and into the
stud or rough buck (Figure 11).
Proceed to Step 6.
3
3
3
Some dwelling designs/conditions may require special installation steps, consult your
architect, design professional and/or product manufacturer for additional guidance.
Variations in threshold design may require that the caulk lines be
applied directly to the bottom of the door unit to ensure a
necessary weather-seal. Inspect the bottom of door unit to
confirm it features a flat surface before caulking the sub-floor
area.
Apply three 1/4” lines of caulk along the length of the sub-floor, the first
line starting approximately 1” from the inside edge. The lines should be
about 1” apart.
Door units featuring multiple door panels or glass inserts are
heavier and more difficult to handle - do not attempt to handle
without assistance.
single door
(X for operable panel or O for non-operable panel)
A:
single or double door with one sidelite
(OX or XO for unit featuring operable panel with non-operable panel)
Figure 5: Some door units may be supplied with a “clip” or “plug” holding the
panel aligned and closed during the initial installation steps. Do not remove at
this time. Some door units may be supplied with a double headed nail or screw
holding panel closed - this needs to be removed at this time.
single with two sidelites
(OXO for unit featuring operable panel with two non-operable panels)
C:
Figure 4: Some door units may be supplied with a wood or cardboard skid plate
located along the bottom of the door. Needs to be removed.
double door
(XX for unit featuring two operable panels)
B:
DO NOT utilize the wall to square and level unit. Unit must be
square and level to insure proper operation and performance.
Screws located in hinge or strike position shall be placed in the
thin (rabbet) section of frame, other screws shall be placed in
thick (stop) section of frame. Wide frames should be attached
with a screw in both sections of the frame to minimize rotation.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the
1
⁄
8
” gap between the edge of door panel and
frame. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim
tighter to maintain the
1
⁄
8
” gap, then retighten the screws.
B
E
F
E
A
D
C
A
B
F
XX
Figure 17: Correct sagging until the flush bolt
slides freely into the pre-drilled hole (not typical
of most units) in the head/threshold.
Figure 18:
The gap between the door
slabs and the head is not evenly aligned.
Figure 19: The gap between the door
slabs and the head is evenly aligned.
Figures 21 and 22: The second set of supplied screws is installed in the vacant
hinge holes or under the weatherstripping.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this, check that
the weatherstripping on the latch side is evenly compressed along
the entire height of the door slab, without any pinching or gaps
(Figures 8 and 9).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the latch side
of the door: The second set of supplied screws are installed through
the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb using the vacant hinge screw holes
(Figure 21). Typically long security screws are used to install the dead
bolt strike plate (Step 6).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the hinge side
of the door: The second set of supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” screws are installed through
the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb under the weatherstripping through
the shim and into the stud approximately 8” from the top and bottom of
the jamb (Figure 22). Shim just above and below the dead bolt hole and
drive the supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws through the dead bolt strike
plate (Step 6).
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or
twist at all when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the
1
⁄
8
” gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws
and shim tighter to maintain the
1
⁄
8
” gap, then re-tighten screws.
B
E
F
F
E
A
C
D
D
D
A
Once there is an even
1
⁄
8
” gap across the top of the door slab and the
weatherstripping is evenly compressed along the height of the door
slab, proceed with the installation.
Shim at points D, E and F on the perimeter of the frame (Figure 20),
until there is an even
1
⁄
8
” gap on both sides of the operating door slab.
Drive the supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws, three on each exterior jamb of
a fixed panel, through the exterior (stop) section part of the jamb, through
the shims and into the studs. Note: If the door is factory-finished use the
“Factory-Finished Door System” information for fastening through
exterior jambs.
For units with two non-operable panels: Typically long security screws
are used to install the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
Proceed to Step 6.
Factory-Finished Door System
Because the inside of the jamb is not accessible, a
3
⁄
8
” hole must be drilled through
the factory-finished exterior jamb,
1
⁄
4
” deep at all points where the door system is
shimmed (three on each exterior side of a non-operable panel, Figure 23). Drive
the supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws, through the drilled hole in the exterior thick
(stop) section of the jamb, through the shims and into the studs (Figure 24). Use
the supplied caps to cover the holes in the exterior jamb (Figure 25).
Figures 24 and 25: Drill holes through the exterior jamb
on factory-finished doors to install screws and plugs.
Figure 23: Pre-finished
systems must have
holes drilled before
screws are installed.
3
3
XO
Remove this por-
tion of plug prior
to installing.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high veloc-
ity windstorm
regions may
require additional
points of
attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high veloc-
ity windstorm
regions may
require
additional points
of attachment.
See local retailer
for installation
sheet supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high veloc-
ity windstorm
regions may
require
additional points
of attachment.
See local retailer
for installation
sheet supplement.
threshold and weatherstrip block around the foot bolt, the hole is not
deep enough (the weatherstrip block must touch the threshold to
properly seal the unit). Shim tightly behind the vacant hinge screw hole
in the bottom hinge (Point C in Figure 16) until the lower flush bolt
slides freely into the clearance hole in the sill. Secure the door by
driving a 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screw supplied, through the hinge and jamb
and into the stud. If the flush bolt does not slide freely, loosen the
screw, shim more tightly and then tighten the screw.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the top hinge (Point D
in Figure 16) to align the top flush bolt with the clearance hole in the
header (Figure 17). Secure with the 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screw supplied,
through the hinge jamb and into the stud.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that
the weatherstripping on the astragal side is evenly compressed
along the entire height of the door slab without any pinching or
gaps (see Figures 8 and 9).
Standing on the inside, shim behind each of the vacant hinge screw
holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door (Points E
in Figure 16) until there is a consistent
1
⁄
8
” gap along the entire height of
the door between the operating door and the passive door. There should
also be a
1
⁄
8
” gap between the top of each door slab and the header.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or twist
when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, this maintaining the
1
⁄
8
” gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter to
maintain the
1
⁄
8
” gap, then retighten the screws.
Install two 2
1
⁄
2
” screws along the head jamb of double door systems for
additional reinforcement. Screws should be installed above center of
each panel. (Figures 17 and 18).
Using the supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws, drive a screw through the
vacant holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door
(Points E in Figure 16), through the jambs and into the stud.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw holes in each of the center hinges (Points
F in Figure 16) and secure using the supplied 2
1
⁄
2
” installation screws.
Proceed to Step 6.
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Figure 20: Install shims in the correct location and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the
opening. Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit
(Points A in Figure 20).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the frame, behind the latch-side jamb (Point B in
Figure 20). Install shims until there is a consistent
1
⁄
8
” gap between the
top of the operating door slab and the frame header.
Shim at the top of the frame, behind the hinge-side jamb (Point C in
Figure 20) to hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The
door should operate freely with nothing but the shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until 2
1
⁄
2
”
screws have been installed. (Points B, C, D, E & F in Figure 20).
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Figure 3: Some door units will be supplied with plastic covers over the bottoms
of the jambs. These must be removed before installation.