Installation Guide
PLEASE NOTE : Failure to install this unit in accordance with
architect, design professional or product manufacturers instructions will
have a direct effect on the units performance and/or long term wear.
Installer shall be experienced in performing work required and shall be
specialized in installation work similar to that required for this project.
Warranty claims are subject to site inspections by a qualified
manufacturer’s representation to establish probable cause
and proposed corrective action.
Critical Point :
Although all steps are critical, this symbol
identies procedures requiring extra attention.
Side-Hinged Door Types
Instructions vary according to door type. Conrm which door type is
being installed. some door styles not available in all markets.
For single door unit, use Step 5A. For double door unit, use Step 5B.
For single door unit with one or two sidelites, use Step 5C.
Check Your Work : This symbol identies when the work should
be checked for correctness before continuing with installation.
Some dwelling designs/conditions may require special installation steps,
consult your architect, design professional and/or product manufacturer
for additional guidance.
single door
(X for operable panel or O for non-operable panel)
A:
single or double door with one sidelite
(OX or XO for unit featuring operable panel with non-operable panel)
Figure 5 : Some door units may be supplied with a “clip” or “plug” holding the
panel aligned and closed during the initial installation steps. Do not remove
at this time. Some door units may be supplied with a double headed nail
or screw holding panel closed - this needs to be removed at this time.
single with two sidelites
(OXO for unit featuring operable panel with two non-operable panels)
C:
double door
(XX for unit featuring two operable panels)
B:
Remove this
portion of plug prior
to installing.
Figure 12 : Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
B
F
G
G
F
A
C
E
E
D
A
X
Step 5 : Shim and Fasten Step 5 : Shim and Fasten
Step 5B : For double doors with concealed top and bottom flush bolts
Figure 16 : Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom of the unit (Points A in Figure 16).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the frame (at Points B in Figure 16). Install shims
until there is a 1/8" gap between the top of the door slabs and the
frame header. This will hold the door tight in its position relative to
the frame. The door should operate freely with nothing but shims
holding it in place.
ATTENTION : Do not open door panel greater than
30-degrees until 2-1/2" screws have been installed.
(Points C, D, E & F in Figure 16).
Door panels with glass inserts may sag toward the center. This is normal.
To correct sagging, align the ush bolts on the xed door with clearance
in the header and sill. Most units do not have pre-drilled holes in the
header and sill. Holes must be drilled. Slide top ush bolt up against
header and bottom bolt down against threshold to mark. Mark where
bolts make contact with
header and sill with pencil.
Drill holes on marks to receive
bolts (1-1/2" deep minimum).
Once holes are drilled, close
panel and engage bolts
making sure they extend
far enough to secure unit. If
there is a gap between the
threshold and weatherstrip
block around the foot bolt,
the hole is not deep enough
(the weatherstrip block must
touch the threshold to properly
seal the unit). Shim tightly
behind the vacant hinge screw
hole in the bottom hinge (Point
D in Figure 16) until the lower
Step 5A : For single doors
Step 5 : Shim and FastenStep 5 : Shim and Fasten
B
E
F
E
A
D
C
A
B
F
XX
Figure 18 : The gap between the
door slabs and the head is not
evenly aligned.
Figure 19 : The gap between the
door slabs and the head is
evenly aligned.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high velocity
windstorm regions
may require
additional points of
attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high velocity
windstorm regions
may require
additional points
of attachment.
See local retailer
for installation
sheet supplement.
Proceed to Step 6.
Required Tools & Materials
FACTORY FINISHED SIDE-HINGED DOOR
UNIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
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Step 3 : Prepare Door Unit
Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.
Figure 3 : Some door units will be supplied with plastic covers over the
bottoms of the jambs. These must be removed before installation.
Figure 4 : Some door units may be supplied with a wood or cardboard skid
plate located along the bottom of the door. Needs to be removed.
Door units featuring multiple door panels or glass inserts
are heavier and more difcult to handle - do not attempt
to handle without assistance.
Step 4 : Place Door in Rough Opening
Figure 6 : Place the sill in the opening first and then tilt the door up
into the opening.
Figures 7 and 8 : The exterior trim (brickmould) rests up against
exterior sheathing or slides into the opening of exterior brick.
Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the exterior side of the door
unit facing you, tilt the door unit toward you (Figure 6). The brickmould
(not supplied with all units) should rest up against the siding of the
exterior wall (Figure 7) and should slide into the
RO of a brick home (Figure 8).
If door unit is supplied without a clip or plug holding door aligned
and closed, do not leave the door wide open during installation.
The weight of the door may cause it to fall and cause injury.
For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a straight vertical
plane and is not twisted. Check alignment using this method:
Stand on the outside of the door. Check that the weatherstripping
on the latch side is evenly compressed along the entire height of
the door slab without any pinching or gaps (Figures 9 and 10).
Figures 9 and 10 : The weatherstripping on these doors is
not evenly compressed.
Figure 11 : Screws are installed
through the jamb, shims and into
the 2x wood studs or bucking.
Information Panel
How to Plumb the Door
How to Fasten the Door
After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing
screws through the jambs, shims and into the stud (Figure 11).
DO NOT utilize the wall to square and level unit. Unit must be
square and level to insure proper operation and performance.
Screws located in hinge or strike position shall be placed in the
thin (rabbet) section of frame, other screws shall be placed in thick
(stop) section of frame. Wide frames should be attached with a
screw in both sections of the frame to minimize rotation.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the 1/8" gap between the edge of door panel and
frame. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter
to maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
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3
Variations in threshold design may require that the caulk lines
be applied directly to the bottom of the door unit to ensure a
necessary weather-seal. Inspect the bottom of door unit to conrm
it features a at surface before caulking the sub-oor area.
Apply three 1/4" lines of caulk along the length of the sub-oor, the
rst line starting approximately 1" from the inside edge. The lines
should be about 1" apart.
Figure 1 : A clean, level, solid sub-floor area is essential to successful installation.
Step 1 : Prepare Rough Opening
Ensure that the following conditions are met:
Clean, clear work area
The rough opening (RO) is ideally 1" wider and 1/2" taller than
the outside frame dimensions of the door unit. Units intended
for installation in high velocity windstorm markets require
less clearance between unit and RO (1/4" sides & top).
The RO is plumb, square and level
The old door frame has been completely removed
in retro-t installation
The sub-oor area is clean, dry and level
The existing sub-oor area is at least 6" deep for 4-9/16"
frames and at least 8" deep for 6-9/16" frames.
Because a solid, level sub-oor is absolutely essential
for proper door unit installation, do not proceed with the
installation until the sub-oor is both solid and level.
Figure 2 : Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the width of the sill.
Step 2 : Caulk the Sub-Floor
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit
(Points A in Figure 12).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the door on the latch side (Point B in Figure 12).
Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the top of
the door slab and the frame header.
Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 12). This will
hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door
should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION : Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/2" screws have been installed. (Points D, E, F & G in Figure 12).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that the
weather-stripping on the latch side is evenly compressed along the
entire height of the door slab without any pinching or gaps
(see Figures 9 and 10).
Figure 13 : Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door (Points A).
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Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door slab.
With the door closed and from the inside shim directly behind the
vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D and E in Figure 12)
until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the hinge-side jamb
and the door slab edge along the entire height of the door. Gap
between the latch-side jamb and the door slab edge should be
1/8" at the top and bottom of the door only. Drive one of the 2-1/2"
screws supplied through the vacant hole in each hinge, through the
jamb, shims and into the stud or rough buck (Figure 11).
When the shims are
properly installed, the frame
should not move or twist
at all when the screws are
tightened and counter-
sunk thereby maintaining
the 1/8" gap. If there is
any movement, loosen the
screws and shim tighter to
maintain the 1/8" gap, then
re-tighten the screws.
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Figure 14 : Shims are placed above and
below the dead bolt hole
(points G in figure 12).
Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 12) approximately
8" from the top and bottom of the frame. Install shims until there
is an even 1/8" gap between the jamb and the edge of the door
slab along the door. Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points G in
Figure 12) just above and below the dead bolt hole, maintaining the
1/8" gap (Figure 14). Pull the weatherstripping away from the jamb
(Points F on Figure 12) and screw 2-1/2" installation screws (by
others) through the jamb and shims into the stud (Figure 15).
Figure 15 : Install
screws underneath
the weatherstripping.
Proceed to Step 6.
Figure 17 : Correct sagging until the flush
bolt slides freely into the pre-drilled hole (not
typical of most units) in the head/threshold.
ush bolt slides freely into the clearance hole in the sill. Secure the
door by driving a 2-1/2" installation screw supplied, through the hinge
and jamb and into the stud. If the ush bolt does not slide freely,
loosen the screw, shim more tightly and then tighten the screw.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the top hinge (Point
C in Figure 16) to align the top ush bolt with the clearance hole
in the header (Figure 17). Secure with the 2-1/2" installation
screw supplied, through the hinge jamb and into the stud.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that
the frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do
this check that the weatherstripping on the astragal side is
evenly compressed along the entire height of the door slab
without any pinching or gaps (see Figures 8 and 9).
Standing on the inside, shim behind each of the vacant hinge screw
holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door (Points E
in Figure 16) until there is a consistent 1/8" gap along the entire height of
the door between the operating door and the passive door. There should
also be a 1/8" gap between the top of each door slab and the header.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or twist
when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, this maintaining the
1/8" gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter to
maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
Shim & install two 2-1/2" screws through the frame header jamb and into
the stud. Screws should be installed above center of each panel.
Using the supplied 2-1/2" installation screws, drive a screw through the
vacant holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door
(Points E in Figure 16), through the jambs and into the stud.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw holes in each of the center
hinges (Points F in Figure 16) and secure using the supplied
2-1/2" installation screws.
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