Installation Guide
Critical Point: The use of
expandable type foam is not
recommended as it may cause the
door jambs to warp; this may leave
the door inoperable or push the
brickmould away from the jamb.
Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door slab.
With the door closed and from the inside shim directly behind the
vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D and E in Figure 12)
until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the hinge-side jamb
and the door slab edge along the entire height of the door. Gap
between the latch-side jamb and the door slab edge should be 1/8"
at the top and bottom of the door only. Drive one of the
2-1/2" screws supplied through the vacant hole in each
hinge, through the jamb, shims and into the stud or
rough buck (Figure 11).
B
F
G
G
F
C
E
E
D
A
X
Door units featuring multiple door panels or glass inserts
are heavier and more difcult to handle - do not attempt
to handle without assistance.
Variations in threshold design may require that the caulk lines
be applied directly to the bottom of the door unit to ensure a
necessary weather-seal. Inspect the bottom of door unit to conrm
it features a at surface before caulking the sub-oor area.
Apply three 1/4" lines of caulk along the length of the
sub-oor, the rst line starting approximately 1" from the
inside edge. The lines should be about 1" apart.
Figure 1: A clean, level, solid sub-floor area is essential to successful installation.
PLEASE NOTE: Failure to install this unit in accordance
with architect, design professional or product manufacturers
instructions will have a direct effect on the units performance and/
or long term wear. Installer shall be experienced in performing
work required and shall be specialized in installation work similar
to that required for this project. Warranty claims are subject to
site inspections by a qualified manufacturer’s representation to
establish probable cause and proposed corrective action.
Critical Point: Although all steps are critical, this symbol
identies procedures requiring extra attention.
Check Your Work: This symbol identifies when the work should
be checked for correctness before continuing with installation.
Step 1: Prepare Rough Opening
Ensure that the following conditions are met:
Clean, clear work area
The rough opening (RO) is ideally 1" wider and 1/2" taller than
the outside frame dimensions of the door unit. Units intended
for installation in high velocity windstorm markets require
less clearance between unit and RO (1/4" sides & top).
The RO is plumb, square and level
The old door frame has been completely
removed in retro-t installation
The sub-oor area is clean, dry and level
The existing sub-oor area is at least 6" deep for 4-9/16"
frames and at least 8" deep for 6-9/16" frames.
Because a solid, level sub-oor is absolutely essential
for proper door unit installation, do not proceed with the
installation until the sub-oor is both solid and level.
Figure 2: Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the width of the sill.
Step 3: Prepare Door Unit
Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.
Step 4: Place Door in Rough Opening
Figure 6: Place the sill in the opening first and
then tilt the door up into the opening.
Figures 7 and 8: The exterior trim (brickmould) rests up against
exterior sheathing or slides into the opening of exterior brick.
Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the exterior side
of the door unit facing you, tilt the door unit toward you
(Figure 6). The brickmould (not supplied with all units) should
rest up against the siding of the exterior wall (Figure 7) and
should slide into the RO of a brick home (Figure 8).
If door unit is supplied without a clip or plug holding door aligned
and closed, do not leave the door wide open during installation.
The weight of the door may cause it to fall and cause injury.
Step 2: Caulk the Sub-Floor
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Required Tools & Materials
Figure 4: Some door units may be supplied with a wood or cardboard
skid plate located along the bottom of the door. Needs to be removed.
Figure 5: Install lock handle set per lock manufacture’s
instruction located in the hardware box.
Figure 3: Some door units will be supplied with plastic covers over the
bottoms of the jambs. These must be removed before installation.
SECURITY DOOR UNIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Figure 12: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit
(Points A in Figure 12).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the door on the latch side (Point B in Figure 12).
Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the top
of the door slab and the frame header.
Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 12). This will
hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door
should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/8" screws have been installed. (Points D, E, F & G in Figure 12).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that the
weather-stripping on the latch side is evenly compressed along the
entire height of the door slab without any pinching or gaps
(see Figures 9 and 10).
Figure 13: Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door (Points A).
Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Step 5A: For single doors Step 5A: For single doors Step 5B: For doors with sidelites
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
high velocity
windstorm regions
may require
additional points
of attachment.
See local retailer
for installation
sheet supplement.
Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 12) approximately
8" from the top and bottom of the frame. Install shims until there
is an even 1/8" gap between the jamb and the edge of the door
slab along the door. Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points G in
Figure 12) just above and below the dead bolt hole, maintaining the
1/8" gap (Figure 14). Pull the weatherstripping away from the jamb
(Points F on Figure 12) and screw 2-1/2" installation screws (by
others) through the jamb and shims into the stud (Figure 15).
Figure 15: Carefully
install screws
underneath the
weatherstripping.
Figure 14: Shims are placed
above and below the dead bolt
hole (points G in figure 12).
Proceed to Step 6.
Shims to be placed below and
above at each strike locations.
Mount frame strikes using the
screws provided. Screws should
go through the shims.
Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill through
the jamb and steel security jamb
plate at each of the (4) frame
strike locations. Countersink the
holes slightly to accept the wood
screw head. Shim behind each
hole location and drive the 2-1/2"
exterior wood screws (by others)
in place. Countersink the screw
heads slightly and cover them with
paintable white caulk after the unit
is completely installed.
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the
latch side of the door: The second set of supplied screws are
installed through the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb using the
vacant hinge screw holes (Figure 16). Typically long security
screws are used to install the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the hinge
side of the door: The second set of supplied 2-1/2" screws are
installed through the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb under the
weatherstripping through the shim and into the stud approximately
8" from the top and bottom of the jamb (Figure 17). Shim just
above and below the dead bolt hole and drive the supplied 2-1/2"
installation screws through the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
Step 6: Insulate
Score shims with a utility knife and snap
the shims along the score. Trim any
excess with the utility knife. Insulate
around the top and sides of the door
unit in the cavity between the jamb and
the wall studs with berglass blanket
insulation (Figure 18). Install the interior
and/or exterior trim around the door.
Figure 18: Insulate between
the jambs and the wall
studs all around the door.
For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a straight vertical
plane and is not twisted. Check alignment using this method:
Stand on the outside of the door. Check that the weatherstripping
on the latch side is evenly compressed along the entire height of
the door slab without any pinching or gaps (Figures 9 and 10).
Figures 9 and 10: The weatherstripping on
these doors is not evenly compressed.
Figure 11: Screws are installed
through the jamb, shims and into
the 2x wood studs or bucking.
Information Panel
How to Plumb the Door
How to Fasten the Door
After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing
screws through the jambs, shims and into the stud (Figure 11).
DO NOT utilize the wall to square and level unit. Unit must be
square and level to insure proper operation and performance.
Screws located in hinge or strike position shall be placed in the
thin (rabbet) section of frame, other screws shall be placed in thick
(stop) section of frame. Wide frames should be attached with a
screw in both sections of the frame to minimize rotation.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the 1/8" gap between the edge of door panel and
frame. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter
to maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
Figure 16 and 17: The second set of supplied screws is installed
in the vacant hinge holes or under the weatherstripping.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not
move or twist at all when the screws are tightened and
counter-sunk, thus maintaining the 1/8" gap. If there
is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter
to maintain the 1/8" gap, then re-tighten screws.
Proceed to Step 6.
Some dwelling designs/conditions may require special
installation steps, consult your architect, design professional and/
or product manufacturer for additional guidance.
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safety glasses 24" to 48" construction level
gloves
measuring tape
caulking gun
screw driver with arrangement
of screw bits
fiberglass blanket insulation
corner seals
wedge shaped shims
paint grade exterior caulk
(latex, silicone or butyl)
2-1/2" minimum premium
exterior wood screws
claw hammer
24" framing square
finish nails suitable for attaching interior and exterior trim
power screw gun with arrangement of screw
bits and 1/8" drill bit and countersink bit too!