How to Install

Ensure that the following conditions are met:
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Clean, clear work area
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The rough opening (RO) is ideally 3/4" wider and 1/2" taller
than the outside frame dimensions of the door unit. Units
intended for installation in hurricane prone regions require
less clearance between unit and RO (1/4" sides & top).
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The RO is plumb, square and level
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The old door frame has been completely removed in retro-fit installation
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When replacing existing door units, ensure products are
properly disposed and recycled in safe manner.
If disturbing existing paint, take proper precautions if lead
paint is suspected (commonly used before 1979). For proper
management of lead paint, see www.epa.gov/lead.
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The sub-floor area is clean, dry and level
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The existing sub-floor area is at least 6" deep for 4-9/16"
frames and at least 8" deep for 6-9/16" frames.
■■
Apply flashing in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall
cavity in accordance with flashing manufacturer’s instructions.
Because a solid, level sub-floor is absolutely essential for
proper door unit installation, do not proceed with the
installation until the sub-floor is both solid and level.
Figure 12: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the
door in the opening. Shim tightly at the bottom
corners of the door unit (Points A in Figure 12).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against
the sill. Shim the top of the door on the latch side (Point B
in Figure 12). Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap
between the top of the door slab and the frame header.
Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 12). This will
hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door
should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/2" screws have been installed. (Points D, E, F & G in Figure 12).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the
frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do
this check that the weather-stripping on the latch side is
evenly compressed along the entire height of the door slab
without any pinching or gaps (see Figures 9 and 10).
Figure 13: Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door (Points A).
B
F
G
G
F
A
C
E
E
D
A
X
PLEASE NOTE: Failure to install this unit in accordance with architect,
design professional or product manufacturers instructions will have a
direct effect on the units performance and/or long term wear. Installer
shall be experienced in performing work required and shall be specialized
in installation work similar to that required for this project. Warranty
claims are subject to site inspections by a qualified manufacturer’s
representation to establish probable cause and proposed corrective action.
Critical Point: Although all steps are critical, this symbol
identifies procedures requiring extra attention.
Check Your Work: This symbol identifies when the work should
be checked for correctness before continuing with installation.
Step 1: Prepare Rough Opening
Figure 1: A clean, level, solid sub-floor area is essential to successful installation.
Figure 2: Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the width of the sill.
Step 3: Prepare Door Unit
Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.
Step 4: Place Door in Rough Opening
Figure 6: Place the sill in the opening first and then tilt the door up into the opening.
Figures 7 and 8: The exterior trim (brickmould) rests up against
exterior sheathing or slides into the opening of exterior brick.
Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the exterior side of the door
unit facing you, tilt the door unit toward you (Figure 6). The brickmould
(not supplied with all units) should rest up against the siding of the exterior
wall (Figure 7) and should slide into the RO of a brick home (Figure 8).
If door unit is supplied without a clip or plug
holding door aligned and closed, do not leave the
door wide open during installation. The weight of
the door may cause it to fall and cause injury.
Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Step 5B: For double doors with concealed top and bottom flush bolts
Figure 16: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom of the unit (Points A in Figure 16).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tightagainst the sill. Shim
the top of the frame (at Points B in Figure 16). Install shims until there
is a 1/8 " gap between the topof the door slabs and the frame header.
This will hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The
door should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/2" screws have been installed. (Points C, D, E & F in Figure 16).
Door panels with glass inserts may sag toward the center. This is normal.
To correct sagging, align the flush bolts on the fixed door with clearance
in the header and sill. Most units do not have pre-drilled holes in the
header and sill. Holes must be drilled. Slide top flush bolt up against
header and bottom bolt down against threshold to mark. Mark where bolts
make contact with header and sill with pencil. Drill holes on marks to
receive bolts (1-1/2" deep minimum). Once holes are drilled, close panel
and engage bolts making sure they extend far enough to secure unit.
Step 5A: For single doors
Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Side-Hinged Door Types
For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a
straight vertical plane and is not twisted. Check alignment
using this method: Stand on the outside of the door.
Check that the weather-stripping on the latch side is
evenly compressed along the entire height of the door slab
without any pinching or gaps (Figures 9 and 10).
Figures 9 and 10: The weather-stripping on
these doors is not evenly compressed.
Figure 11: Screws are installed through
the jamb, shims and into the 2x
wood studs or bucking. It is strongly
recommended that you remove the
weather-stripping to ensure that
you do not pierce or puncture it.
Step 2: Caulk the Sub-Floor
Instructions vary according to door type. Confirm which door type
is being installed. Some door styles not available in all markets.
For single door unit, use Step 5A. For double door unit, use Step 5B.
For single door unit with one or two sidelites, use Step 5C.
Information Panel
How to Plumb the Door
How to Fasten the Door
After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing
screws through the jambs, shims and into the stud (Figure 11).
Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 12)
approximately 8" from the top and bottom of the frame. Install shims
until there is an even 1/8" gap between the jamb and the edge of the
door slab along the door. Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points G
in Figure 12) just above and below the dead bolt hole, maintaining
the 1/8" gap (Figure 14). Remove the weather-stripping away from
the jamb (Points F on Figure 12) and screw 2-1/2" installation screws
(by others) through the jamb and shims into the stud (Figure 15).
Figure 15: Install
screws underneath the
weather-stripping. It is
strongly recommended
that you remove the
weather-stripping to
ensure that you do not
pierce or puncture it.
When the shims are
properly installed, the
frame should not move
or twist at all when the
screws are tightened and
counter-sunk thereby
maintaining the 1/8" gap.
If there is any movement,
loosen the screws and
shim tighter to maintain
the 1/8" gap, then
re-tighten the screws.
Figure 14: Shims are placed
above and below the dead bolt
hole (points G in figure 12).
Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door
slab. With the door closed and from the inside shim directly
behind the vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D and E
in Figure 12) until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the hinge-
side jamb and the door slab edge along the entire height of the door.
Gap between the latch-side jamb and the door slab edge should be
1/8" at the top and bottom of the door only. Drive one of the 2-1/2"
screws supplied through the vacant hole in each hinge, through
the jamb, shims and into the stud or rough buck (Figure 11).
Proceed to Step 6.
Some dwelling designs/conditions may require special installation steps, consult your
architect, design professional and/or product manufacturer for additional guidance.
Variations in threshold design may require that the caulk lines
be applied directly to the bottom of the door unit to ensure a
necessary weather-seal. Inspect the bottom of door unit to confirm
it features a flat surface before caulking the sub-floor area.
Apply three 1/4" lines of caulk along the length of the
sub-floor, the first line starting approximately 1" from
the inside edge. The lines should be about 1" apart.
Required Tools & Materials
Door units featuring multiple door panels or glass
inserts are heavier and more difficult to handle – do
not attempt to handle without assistance.
single door
(X for operable panel or O for non-operable panel)
A:
double door or single with one sidelite
(OX or XO for unit featuring operable panel with non-operable panel)
Figure 5: Some door units may be supplied with a “clip” or “plug” holding
the panel aligned and closed during the initial installation steps. Do not
remove at this time. Some door units may be supplied with a double headed
nail or screw holding panel closed – this needs to be removed at this time.
single with two sidelites
(OXO for unit featuring operable panel with two non-operable panels)
C:
Figure 4: Some door units may be supplied with a composite skid plate located
along the bottom of the door. This must be removed before installation.
double door
(XX for unit featuring two operable panels)
B:
DO NOT utilize the wall to square and level unit. Unit must be
square and level to insure proper operation and performance.
Screws located in hinge or strike position shall be placed in the
thin (rabbet) section of frame, other screws shall be placed in
thick (stop) section of frame. Wide frames should be attached
with a screw in both sections of the frame to minimize rotation.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the 1/8 " gap between the edge of door panel and
frame. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim
tighter to maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
B
E
F
E
A
D
C
A
B
F
XX
Figure 17: Correct sagging until the
flush bolt slides freely into
the pre-drilled hole (not
typical of most units) in
the head/threshold.
Figure 18: The gap between the door
slabs and the head is not evenly aligned.
Figure 19: The gap between the door
slabs and the head is evenly aligned.
Figure 20: Aluminum Astragal
Strike Plate adjustment.
Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Figures 22 and 23: The second set of supplied screws should be installed under
the weather-stripping as shown in Figure 23. It is strongly
recommended that you remove the weather-stripping
to ensure that you do not pierce or puncture it.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that
the frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To
do this, check that the weather-stripping on the latch side
is evenly compressed along the entire height of the door
slab, without any pinching or gaps (Figures 8 and 9).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the latch
side of the door: The second set of supplied screws are installed
through the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb using the vacant
hinge screw holes (Figure 22). Typically long security screws
are used to install the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the hinge side
of the door: The second set of supplied 2-1/2" screws are installed
through the thin (rabbet) section of the jamb under the weather-
stripping through the shim and into the stud approximately 8"
from the top and bottom of the jamb (Figure 23). Shim just
above and below the dead bolt hole and drive the supplied 2-1/2"
installation screws through the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or
twist at all when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the 1/8 " gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws
and shim tighter to maintain the 1/8 " gap, then re-tighten screws.
B
E
F
F
E
A
C
D
D
D
A
Once there is an even 1/8" gap across the top of the door
slab and the weather-stripping is evenly compressed along the
height of the door slab, proceed with the installation.
Shim at points D, E and F on the perimeter of the frame (Figure 21),
until there is an even 1/8" gap on both sides of the operating door slab.
Drive the supplied 2 -1/2 " installation screws, three on each
exterior jamb of a fixed panel, through the exterior (stop) section
part of the jamb, through the shims and into the studs. Note:
If the door is factory-finished use the “Factory-Finished Door
System” information for fastening through exterior jambs.
For units with two non-operable panels: Typically long security
screws are used to install the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
Proceed to Step 6.
Factory-Finished Door System
If the inside of the jamb is not accessible, a 1/8 " holes must be drilled through the
factory-finished exterior jamb, 1/4 " deep at all points where the door system is
shimmed (three on each exterior side of a non-operable panel, Figure 24). Drive the
supplied 2-1/2" installation screws, through the drilled holes in the exterior thick
(stop) section of the jamb, through the shims and into the studs (Figure 25). Some
local jurisdictions may require additional security screws through hinges and strikes.
Figure 25: Drill holes
through the exterior
jamb on factory-finished
jambs and fill in holes
with fill stick provided
in hardware bag..
Figure 24: Pre-finished
systems must have
holes drilled before
screws are installed.
XO
Step 5C: For door with sidelites
Remove this
portion of plug
prior to installing.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
hurricane
prone regions
may require
additional points
of attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation
in hurricane
prone regions
may require
additional points
of attachment.
See local retailer
for installation
sheet supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation in
hurricane prone
regions may require
additional points
of attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the top hinge (Point C
in Figure 16) to align the top flush bolt with the clearance hole in the
header (Figure 17). Secure with the 2-1/2” installation screw supplied,
through the hinge jamb and into the stud.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the
frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do
this check that the weather-stripping on the astragal side is
evenly compressed along the entire height of the door slab
without any pinching or gaps (see Figures 8 and 9).
Standing on the inside, shim behind each of the vacant hinge screw holes
in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door (Points E in
Figure 16) until there is a consistent 1/8 " gap along the entire height of
the door between the operating door and the passive door. There should
also be a 1/8 " gap between the top of each door slab and the header.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or twist
when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, this maintaining
the 1/8" gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim
tighter to maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
Install two 2-1/2" screws along the head jamb of double
door systems for additional reinforcement. Screws should be
installed above center of each panel. (Figures 17 and 18).
Using the supplied 2-1/2" installation screws, drive a screw through
the vacant holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating
door (Points E in Figure 16), through the jambs and into the stud.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw holes in each of the center hinges
(Points F in Figure 16) and secure using the supplied 2-1/2" installation screws.
Proceed to Step 6.
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
Figure 21: Install shims in the correct location and in the correct sequence.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door
in the opening. Shim tightly at the bottom corners
of the door unit (Points A in Figure 21).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the frame, behind the latch-side jamb (Point B in
Figure 21). Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between
the top of the operating door slab and the frame header. Shim at the
top of the frame, behind the hinge-side jamb (Point C in Figure 21)
to hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door
should operate freely with nothing but the shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/2" screws have been installed. (Points B, C, D, E & F in Figure 20).
SIDE-HINGED DOOR UNIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
www.masonite.com
Figure 3: Some door units will be supplied with plastic covers over the
bottoms of the jambs. These must be removed before installation.
Lift out the plastic filler strip with a flat head screw driver. Loosen
the Phillips screws and adjust strikers to the desired location. Tighten
Screws. Reinstall plastic strips. (Plastic strip may need trimming.)
If there is a gap between the threshold
and weatherstrip block around the
foot bolt, the hole is not deep enough
(the weatherstrip block must touch
the threshold to properly seal the
unit). Shim tightly behind the vacant
hinge screw hole in the bottom
hinge (Point D in Figure 16) until
the lower flush bolt slides freely
into the clearance hole in the sill.
Secure the door by driving a 2-1/2"
installation screw supplied, through
the hinge and jamb and into the
stud. If the flush bolt does not slide
freely, loosen the screw, shim more
tightly and then tighten the screw.