Owner`s manual

28
3. Splintering typically happens due to incorrect blade style, dull blade,
thinness of workpiece, or improperly dried wood.
NOTE: Always perform a dry run cut so you can determine if the operation
being attempted is possible before power is applied to miter saw.
4. Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge securely against
the fence. If the board is warped, place the convex side against the fence. If
the concave edge of the board is against the fence, the board could collapse
on the blade at the end of the cut and jam the blade (Fig. 19 and 20).
5. Align your pencil line in the middle of the dual “red laser lines”.
6. Use the hold down clamp to secure workpiece against saw table and fence.
7. When cutting long workpieces, pull out extension wing for extra support
for the long workpieces. (Fig. 14a)
COMPOUND MITER CUTTING (Fig. 17)
A compound miter cut is a cut
made using a miter angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This
type of cut is used for decorative
moldings, picture frames and
other fine joinery. To make this
type of cut, the miter table must be
rotated to the correct miter angle
and the saw arm must be tilted to
the correct bevel angle. ALWAYS
take special care when making
compound miter cuts due to the
interaction of the two angle settings. Adjustments of miter and bevel settings
are dependent on one another. Each time you adjust the miter setting, you
change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you adjust the bevel
setting, you change the effect of the miter setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The first angle setting
should be checked after setting the second angle, since adjusting the second
angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been obtained,
ALWAYS make a test cut in scrap material BEFORE making a finish cut in
good material.
Fig. 17
Compound 45° Bevel, 45° Miter Cut