Mazda Service Bulletin MAZDASPEED3 (Axela), MAZDASPEED6 (Atenza), and MPS Service Bulletin v1.
Table of Contents Introduction................................................................................................................................................................................ 4 Suggested Servicing From the Factory........................................................................................................................................4 Factory Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)........................................................................................
1) AccessPORT + free flowing intake system.......................................................................................................................33 2) CDFP upgrade + Turbo Inlet Hose (TIH)...........................................................................................................................33 3 Upgraded exhaust system and ByPass Valve (BPV).........................................................................................................
Introduction This Service Bulletin has been created to help keep you informed about properly maintaining your MAZDASPEED3 (Axela)/ MAZDASPEED6 (Atenza) and MPS vehicle running the L3T DISI (Direct Injection Spark Ignited) engines.
This document was not created to give our impressions of Mazda's build quality. We simply put this together in order educate MAZDASPEED3 (Axela) /MAZDAPEED6 (Atenza) & MPS owners of various known issues that may exist on their vehicle. Mazda is a very high quality manufacturer that produces excellent quality vehicles. Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
Which AccessPORT calibration do I install on my ECU? Brought to you by Braden Bergher If you have any difficulties installing your AccessPORT TM please contact the Cobb Tuning authorized dealer you purchased the device from. Which map (AKA calibration) do I choose for installation? ● Map or calibration files are named according to the modifications they support and the type of fuel being used. Some map or calibration files name examples are Stage1 91 v200, Stage1+SF 91 v200, or Stage1+SF+TIH+IC 93 v200.
What do all of these +SF, +TIH, and +IC acronyms stand for? ● +SF = Specifies the calibration was designed for and requires the Cobb Tuning SF intake system to be installed in order for the calibration to operate properly. ● +cpCAI = Specifies the calibration was designed for and requires the cp-E Cold Air Intake system to be installed in order for the calibration to operate properly. ● +cpN = Specifies the calibration was designed and is required to be used with a cp-E Nano intake system installed.
What if I upgraded my turbo / air intake / Intercooler (IC) / etc? ● Please check the AccessPORT map download section to see if a calibration is available for your specific configuration. We will have calibrations available for many common upgrades beyond the standard staged maps. ● If a map is not available for your specific configuration, you will want to consult with an authorized AccessTUNER in your area for custom calibration for your vehicle.
Excessive crankcase pressures due to poor Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) design – Burning oil at idle. Some L3T DISI engines (in completely stock form) burn oil through the engine and oil smoke pours from the tailpipe while at idle. This is due to several issues that we've found with this platform. First, the PCV source where the crankcase pressures are pulled (or sucked) comes from the engine block itself, not from the head or valve cover as is on almost all other vehicles.
Insufficient fuel supply from the stock Camshaft Driven Fuel Pump (CDFP). These vehicles are equipped with a ultra high pressure gasoline direct injection fuel system. Many components are involved in compressing your Direct Injection Fuel Pressure (DIFP) into a superfine mist of combustible magic. The journey begins with the low pressure fuel pump (LPFP) inside of your fuel tank. This pump runs between 53-61psi and delivers fuel to the CDFP.
As you can see, the driver is holding the throttle down during a WOT 3 rd gear run and the DIFP starts dropping off from its target of ~1650psi (at row 47) all the way down to ~700psi. This is an indicator that your current CDFP is not capable of keeping up with fueling demands. Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
2000 100 1800 90 1600 80 1400 70 1200 60 1000 50 800 40 600 30 400 20 200 10 0 17 50 18 39 20 47 23 00 25 73 29 40 33 33 38 11 42 25 45 81 49 57 Throttle/Boost DIFP Stock CDFP Failure Throttle Position (%) DI Fuel Press. (PSI) Boost (PSI) 0 RPM The above graph is from the same datalog. Boost builds and holds steady at around 17psi across the RPM range but, starting at 3000 RPM, the DIFP starts to drop off.
– Poor or erratic idle – Cylinder or engine miss-fires – Poor fuel economy – Excessive valve train wear – Poor power production We've documented a cleaning process that you can use to help keep your engine running optimally. Depending on various factors, including intake filter efficiency, quality of engine oil and fuel used, duration of time/mileage between engine oil changes, cleanliness of the PCV and EGR system, etc.
within the frequency range of engine detonation or knock. The engine may not be detonating, but the DI fuel injector rattle can cause false knock which disallows the engine from running properly. If you notice that your ECU is suddenly picking up more Knock Retard (KR) than normal, and you have ruled out all other common reasons for this (poor quality of fuel from your last fill up, excessive ambient heat, heat soak, rattling heat shield, etc.
Service Bulletin Update - Installing a Catch Can or Air/Oil Separator Brought to you by Tim Bailey Installing an oil catch can or air/oil separator and upgraded Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system in the MAZDASPEED3/6 & MPS Turbocharged engines often develop positive pressure inside the crankcase because com bustion pressure escapes past the piston rings separating the combustion chamber from the crank case.
Installation: 1) Be sure to set your emergency brake, carefully lift the front of the vehicle onto jack stands, and remove the plastic under tray to allow access to the front of the engine and intake manifold. Remove the plastic under tray 2) Locate the tube connecting the intake manifold to the crankcase. Carefully remove this tube from the intake manifold. Tubing to crankcase Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
3) Assemble the catch can and PCV system components: PCV Valve Attach to Intake Manifold (~39” long total) Attach to Crankcase (~36” long) Catch Can Close up of PCV valve from above Closed under boost and open under vacuum Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
4) Attach the tube with the in-line PCV valve to the intake manifold fitting. Attach tubing with PCV to intake manifold fitting 5) Using a hose clamp, secure the 5/8 barbed adapter to the stock tube which has been removed from the intake manifold. Attach 5/8 barb straight fitting to the stock tubing removed from the intake manifold Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
6) Attach the longer section of tube, without the PCV valve, to the straight barb fitting. Attach long end of tuning without PCV to the barb fitting Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
7) Locate the catch can behind the lower passenger side bumper, just ahead of the front wheels. Front Front wheel Catch Can location looking from under the car toward the passenger tire Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
8) Secure lines between catch can, intake manifold, and crank case so they do not rub and wear against any of the undercarriage. Front wheel Front Catch Can location just in front of the passenger tire behind the bumper 9) Reinstall the plastic under tray. The improved PCV system will help remove pressurized air from entering the crankcase and help prevent oil contaminated air from entering the inlet air stream. The crankcase will now properly ventilate only under vacuum.
Service Bulletin Update - Intake Valve Cleaning Brought to you by Evan Goldberg This update is a brief summary explaining how to clean the intake valves on a L3T Mazda DISI engine. This particular engine has just over 30,000 miles on it and has used only premium grade 93 octane fuel along with fully synthetic oil. The vehicle’s EGR was deleted at 24,000 miles. The decision was made to clean the valves to get this motor into peak performing condition so we could use the vehicle as a COBB Tuning test vehicle.
DISI engines since a fuel injector is no longer located in the port, firing above the intake valves in order to help wash the carbon off of the valves. It can be assumed that the valves closest to the EGR system return will suffer the greatest carbon build up. The valves in this port were the only of the 8 individual ports on the vehicle that showed a thick, gooey type of carbon build up as opposed to a dried/charred looking carbon build up exhibited on the intake valves of the other three cylinders.
Cylinder #2 Unfortunately, we did not capture a picture of the #1 cylinder before the cleaning. As we mentioned, the carbon build up was less intense on the cylinders that are located farther from the EGR return. To clean the valves, a variety of solvents were tested. Each solvent was allowed to soak for 15 minutes inside the port before any brushing or physical cleaning. The following are our observations on the interactions between the solvent and carbon build up on the valves.
Ranked in Order of Effectiveness: I. Denatured Alcohol – Had the strongest effect on the build up. It most effectively turned the solution inside the port into a homogenous liquid saturated with the carbon build up. When scrubbed and siphoned away, the alcohol removed the most build up with each subsequent “soak”. Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
II. Sea Foam – Had a strong effect on the build up but, unlike the alcohol, did not dissolve the build up as much as it broke it down into a removable “goop” that could be scraped from the port. Unlike any other solution, the Sea Foam allowed me to scoop up material that would stick to the tools. Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
III. Brake & Parts Cleaner – After soaking and scrubbing, the siphoned liquid from the port was obviously saturated with carbon material, but the overall effect it had on the valve surfaces was minimal compared with the alcohol and Sea Foam. The cleaning ability is similar to carburetor & choke cleaner. Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
IV Carburetor & Choke Cleaner – After soaking and scrubbing, the siphoned liquid from the port was obviously saturated with carbon material, but the overall effect it had on the valve surfaces was minimal compared with the alcohol and Sea Foam. The cleaning ability is similar to brake & parts cleaner. While none of the tested solvents were “miracle” workers, by any means, they were eventually capable of removing most of the build up from the intake valves with physical agitation.
To physically clean the valves, we used a combination of gun cleaning tools, consisting of various picks and wire brushes to agitate and remove the carbon buildup. The pick tool comes in handy when attempting to remove build up on the back side of the valve. Some bending/flattening of your tools may be necessary to better accommodate the job. In the end, the valves in no way resemble a new part, but we can state that they were sufficiently cleaned for the task at hand.
Cylinder #1 After Cylinder #2 After Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
Cylinder #3 After Cylinder #4 After Copyright © 2012 COBB Tuning Products LLC. All Rights Reserved | www.cobbtuning.
Immediately following the cleaning, a noticeably smoother idle was achieved. Also, +18% LTFTs were present after the cleaning, indicating that the engine was clearly breathing much better. The MAF calibration curve had already been dialed in perfectly. The dyno graph above illustrates a comparison of power production before and after the intake valve cleaning, on the same vehicle with the same calibration. The “before” runs (blue) were done in the morning in approximately 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures.
While the numbers may appear to be inconclusive, you can see that we’ve gained more peak torque due to the car reaching boost targets at an earlier RPM range. The similarity between power and torque curves is a little misleading, given the significant difference in ambient temperatures and a taper in boost levels above 4000 RPM after the cleaning. The greater flowing intake valves actually run lower boost on the same Wastegate Duty Cycle (WGDC) values.
Mounted InterCooler (FMIC), but this will slightly increase turbo lag due to the increased volume and charge pipe length of the FMIC piping. With a higher capacity fuel system, you will be able to further benefit from higher base DI Fuel Pressure.
