® INSTALLATION & POOL CARE MANUAL MODELS R-20 & R-40 RESIDENTIAL POOLS
FIRST, BALANCE THE POOL'S WATER Before installing the R-20/R-40 ionizer, the pools water must be clear and balanced properly. It is extremely important that the following guidelines are implemented - so please read thoroughly. PREVIOUS SANITIZER USE If the previous sanitizer used was Baquacil, you will need to remove every drop of it, as Baquacil is not compatible with any other sanitizer including the MineralPURE Ionizer.
TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS) Usually, the total dissolved solids should be between 300-2000 ppm., and tested once a year. For the system to perform on maximum capabilities (a pool with very warm water or a pool that is close to the maximum number of gallons rated for the system), the TDS needs to be at least 500 ppm. If installing the unit on a brand new pool, you may need to have to raise the total dissolved solids level. THIS IS ONLY NECESSARY IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO OBTAIN THE DESIRED COPPER-ION LEVEL.
FIRST, MOUNT THE FLOW CELL TEE 1.) Locate a space for the electrode flow cell tee (the 2" slip/slip/threaded tee). The tee should be installed after the pump and either before or after the filter. After the filter is preferred, but it will work fine if installed before the filter. NEVER INSTALL THE TEE NEXT TO THE POOL'S HEATER. 2.) Turn off the pump and close all valves. Disconnect all sources of power going to the timer or pump. 3.
Connecting to the timer box 220VAC - Connect the black (3 stranded) wire cable to the 220VAC timer box by splicing the 3 wires and connecting the black and white wires to the LOAD side of the timer box. It makes no difference which colored wire goes to the two load connections. Connect the green wire to GROUND. When installed correctly, the unit should come on and off when the power comes on and off. 110VAC - Connect either the white wire or the black wire to the LOAD side on the timer box.
INDICATOR LIGHTS On the face plate of the control box are three indicator lights. The top light - Power indicator -lets you know that power is going to the control box. This light should stay on all the time as long as the power source is on. The bottom two lights - Alternating Electrode Indicators - lets you know a charge is going to the electrodes. One light should come on at a time, meaning a charge is going to one of the electrodes.
QUICK CHART A separate Chart Quick Sheet, a blue sheet, which is included with every unit, should be followed at this point. TROUBLE SHOOTING Cloudy water or algae If algae is present, you must take steps to solve the reason it formed. First, brush the algae. Add chlorine to the pool to oxidize. Check filtering system and backwash or clean filter. Check the water chemistry - especially pH and total alkalinity. Make sure copper-ion level is in range.
10.) Steel plumbing. Never install the electrodes on steel piping. Cut out a section of pipe and replace with PVC pipe where the electrodes are installed. 11.) Improper installation. Have the electrodes been installed on the return line? Make sure the electrode chamber is angled downward so that the chamber is full of water and no airpocket can get in there. Check all wires for proper connections. 12.) Indicator lights do not come on. Make sure the unit has been installed properly to the correct voltage.
REMOVING THE CIRCUIT BOARD If the control box needs to be replaced for any reason, the unit was designed so that only the circuit board needs to be checked out. This allows for all external electrical connections and the enclosure to remain at the same location during repair. To remove the circuit board: FIRST DISCONNECT ALL POWER!!! 1.) Open up clear lid 2.) Unscrew four (4) screws holding faceplate assembly in place. 3.) Lift up faceplate assembly and turn over. 4.
ADDING AN OXIDIZER An occasional oxidizer is required to burn off body oils, suntan lotion, and debris that gets into the water and causes cloudiness. There are several options: NON-CHLORINE SHOCK - Add 1 pound of potassium monopersulfate (non-chlorine shock) per 10,000 gallons of water at least once a week during summer season, or after heavy bather load. Add less frequency in cooler weather. For best results, do not wait for the water to get cloudy when adding.
R-20 IONIZER SPECIFICATIONS R-40 IONIZER SPECIFICATION SHEET Water Specifications POOL SIZE: up to 20,000 U.S. gallons IONIZATION METHOD: electrolysis of copper or copper/silver alloy electrodes ELECTRODE CHAMBER: 2” schedule 40 tee with bushings for 2” or 1 ½” PVC pipe ELECTRODE: one set 3" long, comprised of copper (CLE-02) or optionally available 90/10 copper/silver alloy (CLE-51) Water Specifications POOL SIZE: up to 40,000 U.S.
CLEANING & CHANGING THE ELECTRODES The only part of the purifier that will need maintenance or replacement is the electrodes. The electrodes should last 1 to 4 years depending on pool size, length of swimming season, water temperature and how well the water was balanced. If you are unable to maintain a normal copper-ion level, check the electrodes. Simply unscrew the electrode chamber from the tee and visually inspect.
