2014 Speed Concept: Service Information When we introduced the Trek Speed Concept bike in 2011, it was the fastest frameset we had ever made. The 2014 version is even faster. It has shaped tubes, hidden front and rear brakes, very thin-walled carbon tubes, and a new front-end design including a new handlebar configuration.
Table of Contents 1. Working with Carbon Fiber Parts............................................................. 1 10. Front Brake................................................................................................24 To Install And Adjust The Front Brake..................................................25 2. Speed Concept General Information..................................................... 2 Changes From The Previous Version......................................................2 11.
1. Working with Carbon Fiber Parts Carbon fiber parts are different from metal parts, so they require different treatment. This section explains some of the specifics. Also see the Trek Bicycle Owner’s Manual. Avoid Sharp Edges Or Excessive Pressure Carbon fiber composite can be damaged by sharp edges or clamping mechanisms which cause a point load, or a high pressure area.
2. Speed Concept General Information The Speed Concept design incorporates a number of special parts with special features. This section gives a brief explanation of some of the features, their use and maintenance, and general information about the bike. Changes From The Previous Version The 2014 Speed Concept looks similar to the previous version, but there are many changes. These changes make ‘upgrading’ to the new design impossible.
• Hidden brakes- If you can’t see them, the wind can’t find them. The brakes are sensitive to rim width, so a brake will require re-adjustment if the wheel is changed, because. There are pad-width adjustment features built into the brakes. • Carbon rims- By weight, carbon is the strongest material used in bicycle construction. It also allows greater flexibility in designing shapes, so Bontrager carbon rims are very aero. Make sure you use brake pads that are compatible with the rim material.
4. Seatpost Tools and materials required This section explain how to install the seatpost, adjust the seatpost height, and how to tilt the saddle. • 4 mm hex wrench • Torque wrench • Park Polylube 1000 grease The 2014 Speed Concept seatpost has an aerodynamic shape (Figure 4.1), but it can be turned or reversed in the frame to allow for a wide variety of seating positions. It is also available in two offsets and two lengths.
To Install The Seatpost 1. Grease the threads of the seatpost clamp bolts (Figure 4.2). 2. Insert the seatpost and tighten the seatpost clamp bolts to 5.2 Nm. The seatpost can be inserted dry, or for more grip insert it with carbon prep on the portion of the post that is inside the frame. Seatpost clamp bolts Figure 4.2. Seatpost clamp bolts on the back of the seat tube To Adjust The Height Of The Saddle 1. Loosen the seatpost clamp bolts (Figure 4.3). 2. Slide the post up or down as necessary.
5. Using A Repair Stand This section explains how to correctly put the Speed Concept in a work stand. Do not clamp the frame. The only accepted or recommended method for holding the Speed Concept is to use the special workstand clamp adapter designed specifically to clamp the seatpost (Figure 5.1). The adapter clamps only to the seatpost, which must be installed first.
6. Fork Tools and materials required This section explains how to install the integrated fork on the 2014 Speed Concept, including installing the head bearings (the Speed Concept uses integrated head bearings instead of a conventional headset). After that information, there are instructions for removing the fork. • Bicycle grease • Torque wrench • 4, 5, and 8 mm hex wrench Figure 6.1 shows the parts of the fork assembly.
To Install The Bearings And Fork 1. Apply a light coat of grease to the bearing contact surfaces of the frame and fork, and steering axle. 2. With your hands, align the upper bearing and press it into the frame (Figure 6.2). Figure 6.2. Upper head bearing pressed into frame 3. Align the lower bearing with the fork crown (Figure 6.3). 4.
7. Place the stem on top of the fork with the steering axle in the stem clamp. Insert the two stem-to-fork attachment bolts (Figure 6.6) through the stem and thread them into the top of the fork. Tighten to 10 Nm. Figure 6.6. Stem-to-fork attachment bolts (two) 8. Tighten the steering axle pinch bolt (Figure 6.7) to 5.2 Nm. Figure 6.7.
3. Loosen and remove the three aerobar attachment bolts (Figure 6.10), and remove the aerobar/mono-extension assembly. Note: To simply remove the fork, you can skip this step and leave the mono-extension assembly attached to the aerobar. Figure 6.10. Aerobar attachment bolts (three) 4. Loosen the steering axle pinch bolt (Figure 6.11). Figure 6.11. Steering axle pinch bolt 5. Loosen and remove the steering axle lock bolt and washer (Figure 6.12). Figure 6.12.
7. Cables, Housings, And Bar Assembly This section explains how to install housings in the aerobar, mono-extension, and frame; and how to assemble the bar. Figure 7.1 shows an exploded view of the bar assembly. Tools and materials required • Torque wrench • 3 and 4 mm hex wrench If you are assembling a new bike, don’t be confused by the backwards cables in the housing; those cables are just there to hold the housing in place during shipping.
To Install The Housings In The Frame If the housings are already in place in the frame, go to To install housings in the monoextension and aerobar, on page 14. 1. To differentiate it from the rear housing, mark each end of the front derailleur shift housing with a piece of tape. Note: Only 4 mm housing will fit into the derailleur housing stops. To determine the length of housings, use the previous pieces as a guide, or install new 1500 mm pieces that you will re-size later. 2.
5. Install a ferrule on the brake housing. Make sure the guide tube, a short plastic tunnel that reduces cable friction, is in the brake yoke (Figure 7.6), and slide the housing into the yoke. Brake yoke Bottom bracket cable guide Figure 7.6. Brake yoke with housing connected 6. Run the rear brake cable backwards through the brake, then into the yoke and housing. This is to hold the housing in place while you proceed with the next steps. 7. Attach the brake with the two brake attachment bolts (Figure 7.
To Install Housings In The Mono-Extension And Aerobar 1. Starting from the front (shifter) end of the mono-extension, slide the shift housing pieces through (Figure 7.8). Then align the housings with the holes in the mono-spacer, and slide the mono-spacer into place under the mono-extension. Note: Only 4 mm housing will fit the housing connectors. To determine the length of housings, use the previous pieces as a guide, or install new pieces that extend 3 to 4” (75100 mm) past both ends of the bar.
5. From the rear of the aerobar, slide the rear brake housing through the aerobar (Figure 7.12) out to the lever. Note: Place a cable into the housing before inserting the housing; the rounded cable end will slide through the bar more easily than the raw housing end. Figure 7.12. Rear brake housing routed out of aerobar (top view of aerobar) 6. Slide the front brake housing through the ‘t-slot’ of the aerobar (Figure 7.13). Leave an extra 25 mm of housing protruding out of the t-slot.
9. Make sure the guide tube, a plastic sleeve that reduces cable friction (Figure 7.16), is in place inside the brake ferrule. Install the front brake cable. This will hold the ferrule in place during the next step. Figure 7.16. Ferrule and guide tube 10. Dry-fit the aerobar to the stem. Place the ferrule in the stem . Make sure the tabs on the ferrule engage the cut-out in the stem.
13. Install the mono-extension assembly (mono-extension, pivot cradle, and mono-spacer) on the aerobar. With the aerobar in place on the stem, pass the front attachment bolt up through the stem, the bar, then into the mono-extension assembly (Figure 7.19). Tighten until finger tight. Figure 7.19. Tightening front attachment bolt 14. Connect the cables (Figure 7.20) and assemble the aerobar and stem. Place the ferrule in the stem again.
17. Secure the stem cover with the two side attachment bolts (Figure 7.22). Figure 7.22. Housing cover on stem 18. Re-insert the front aerobar attachment bolt and then the two bolts on the side of the stem (Figure 7.23), and tighten all three bolts to 6-8 Nm. Note: The side bolts are not on the centerline of the bike, but “lean” inward nearer the top of the bar. Figure 7.23. Side attachment bolts go in at an angle 19. If needed, cut to length the shift housings from the mono-extension to the shifters.
8. Arm supports Tools and materials required With the aerobars and stem connected to the bike, you are ready to install the arm supports. Arm pads Arm pad holder bolts Pad wing holder bolts Dog-bone washer • 2.5 and 3 mm hex wrench • Torque wrench Part PN Arm pads, pair 437028 Arm pad holders, pair 437029 Pad wing W326497 Bolt Kit 437027 Dog-bone washer Kit 437027 Spacer, 5 mm W327606 Part Arm pad holder Pad wing Mono-extension (one of four choices) Spacer Figure 8.1.
To Install arm supports 1. Make any final adjustments to the fore/aft position and/or tilt of the of the mono extension (Figure 8.2). Do not bottom-out the set screw on the top cradle. Figure 8.2. Adjusting the tilt and reach of the monoextension assembly 2. After the position is set, tighten the bolts to 6-8 Nm and then tighten the set screw (Figure 8.3) until it makes contact with the mono-spacer. Figure 8.3. Tightening the set screw 3. Attach the Pad wing to the mono-extension (Figure 8.4).
5. Attach the arm pads to the holders by their hook-and-loop fasteners (Figure 8.6). Figure 8.
9. Derailleurs Tools and materials required At this point in the assembly, the cables should be in the housings that run through the down tube. These instructions explain the correct routing through the bottom bracket cable guide and to each of the derailleurs.
To Install The Front Derailleur 1. Install the front derailleur with the special spherical washer (Figure 9.2) and tighten to the manufacturer’s specifications. Note: The 2014 Speed Concept frame uses an integrated carbon fiber front hanger. This hanger requires a special spherical washer to allow you to adjust the position of the derailleur. Do not use the washer from the derailleur manufacturer. The Speed Concept spherical washer, which is identical to the one used on the 2013 Madone, is PN 319576.
10. Front Brake Tools and materials required The front brake (Figure 10.1) is hidden from the wind and from your eyes. But when correctly assembled and adjusted, they work very well. The Speed Concept brakes use wedge/roller actuation, so cable tension is critical. Before starting this procedure, the front brake cable and housing should be in place after installing the aerobar. Brake arm with roller • 2, 2.
To Install And Adjust The Front Brake 1. Make sure the E-clip is in the groove on the brake bolt (Figure 10.2) Figure 10.2. E-clip on brake bolt 2. Install both brake arms onto the fork (Figure 10.3). Tighten to 6-8 Nm. Figure 10.3. Tighten the brake bolts 3. Place the wedge in the “home” position between the rollers (Figure 10.4). Figure 10.4. Wedge in “home” position between rollers 4. Loosen the cable clamp nut and slide the cable through the wedge (Figure 10.5).
5. Avoid moving the wedge on the cable. Remove the wedge from the brake. Hold the wedge by its lower corners while you tighten the cable clamp nut to 4-5 Nm (Figure 10.6). Figure 10.6. Tightening the cable clamp nut 6. Cut the brake cable to length. It should not protrude past the spring (Figure 10.7). Finish the end of the cable so that it will not interfere with the brake return spring.
9. With the centering screws, center the brake (Figure 10.10). Figure 10.10 Center the brake over the rim 10. Engage the top tab of the cover (Figure 10.11), then place the cover over the brake and install the cover bolts. Tighten to 3 Nm. Fork Tab Brake cover Attachment bolts Figure 10.11. Attachment points of front brake cover 11. Install the grommets over the cover attachment bolts (Figure 10.12). Figure 10.12.
11. Rear Brake Tools and materials required The rear brake (Figure 11.1) is inside a cover, under the bottom bracket. There are two covers from which to choose. The rear brake uses a wedge/roller actuation, so cable tension is critical. Before installing the rear brake, the aerobar should be installed with the rear brake cable and housing in place. The bottom bracket cable guide should also be in place. Centering screws Noodle • 2, 2.
To Install And Adjust The Rear Brake 1. If needed, remove the brake cover (Figure 11.2). Figure 11.2. Cover attached with three bolts 2. If needed, roughly center the brake. Loosen the two bracket attachment bolts (Figure 11.3), center the brake, and retighten the bolts to 6-8 Nm. Figure 11.3. Brake attached by two bolts 3. Place the wedge in the “home” position between the rollers (Figure 11.4). Loosen the cable clamp nut and slide the cable through the wedge.
5. Insert the correct brake pads and set the pad spacers (Figure 11.6, and see Table 6 below). There should be 2 mm between each pad and the rim when the brake is not engaged Make sure the pad carriers are oriented correctly so that the pads do no slide out when the brake is applied. Table 6. Brake pad spacing between NEW pads and brake arms Rim width (mm) Spacer placement 19-23 1 x 1 mm inside 24-28 2 x 1 mm outside Figure 11.6. Changing spacers 6. Align the brake pads (Figure 11.7).
9. Install the front (20 mm) brake cover attachment bolt (Figure 11.10). Tighten to 2 Nm. Figure 11.10. Attaching the rear brake cover with front 20 mm bolt 10. Install the two rear (10 mm) brake cover attachment bolts (Figure 11.11). Tighten to 3 Nm. Figure 11.11. Attaching the rear brake cover with two 10 mm bolts If needed, you can re-center the brake through the window of the cover (Figure 11.12). Both centering screws are accessible through this window. Figure 11.12.
12. DuoTrap Computer Sensor Tools and materials required • Phillips-head screwdriver The 2014 Speed Concept frame includes a special pocket on the left chainstay for the Bontrager DuoTrap sensor, which combines speed and cadence sensing in a single, wireless unit (Figure 12.1). Part PN DuoTrap sensor 426618 Rubber plug 296415 Cover /plug 411777 Part Attachment bolt Torque Spec (Nm) 0.6-0.8 Figure 12.1. DuoTrap sensor To Install A DuoTrap Sensor 1. On the chainstay, locate the DuoTrap cover.
13. Accessories Tools and materials required • 4 mm hex wrench • Torque wrench To Install A Draft Storage Box This box is placed out of the wind behind the seat tube (Figure 13.1). The box slides down onto a removable track that attaches to the frame with two mounting bolts. Part PN Draft Storage Box 433746 Part Attachment bolt Torque Spec (Nm) 2-3 Figure 13.1. Draft Storage Box 1. Place the track so that the spring-loaded button is at the bottom and on the non-drive side of the bike.
To Install A Speed Box This box is placed on the top of the top tube (Figure 13.4). The box attaches to the frame with two mounting bolts. Tools and materials required • 4 mm hex wrench • Torque wrench Part PN Speed Box 436152 Part Attachment bolt Figure 13.4 Speed Box 1. Align the Speed Box with the threaded holes on the top tube (Figure 13.4). 2. Insert two M5 bolts though the Speed Box and into the threaded holes in the top tube. Tighten to 2-3 Nm.
To Install A Bottle Cage The custom Speed Concept bottle cage attaches to the mono-extension via a cage mount, which allows a variety of positions. The cage includes an integrated computer mount. Tools and materials required • 3 and 4 mm hex wrench • Torque wrench Part PN Bottle cage 436151 Computer mount 436163 Part Torque Spec (Nm) Cage attachment bolt Mount attachment bolt Figure 13.5 Speed Concept bottle cage 1.
3. Choose a method to install a computer. Computers with a rigid band clamp, such as the SRM, will require the spacer (Figure 13.8). Computers with a more flexible mount can attach directly to the bottle cage (Figure 13.9). Figure 13.8. Computer mounts Figure 13.9.
14. Crankset The Speed Concept uses the same bearing system as a Madone; there are no parts that thread into the frame. Instead, the bearings are a slip-fit into the frame. However, the Speed Concept uses the new tighter fit of the bearings, which may require using a headset press (see page 28). Do not use a hammer to install the bearings into the frame. If the bearing fit is too tight, make sure the bearing seats are clean and free of debris.
Pressing Crankset Bearings The bearing fit is tighter in the Speed Concept than in early Madone models. If the bearings do not slip in by hand, follow this procedure after you have installed the bearing shield (page 28). Notes: • Be very careful when using the press. Too much force can crack the bottom bracket shell. • Press in one bearing at a time. Tools required Installation • Park Bearing Removal Tool BBT-90 • Brass punch • Hammer To Press A Bearing 1. Install the bearing shield. 2.
SRAM GXP These instructions explain how to install a SRAM/TruVativ/Bontrager GXP crankset (Figure 1) in a new Speed Concept. To complete the installation, you will also need the SRAM instructions, available at: http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2005_gxp-05-r5-e.
To Install The Bearings 1. Apply a liberal coat of grease to the contact surfaces of one bearing and the drive side of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.7). Figure 14.7. Greasing the bearing and the frame saddle 2. Slide a bearing onto the installation tool. Either side of the drive-side bearing is the “right side.” The non-drive bearing on GXP systems has a lip (Figure 14.8). Install the bearing so that the lip faces in. Figure 14.8.
3. Install the wave washer and with the grease facing up, slide the bearing seal onto the axle (Figure 14.11). Figure 14.11. Sliding the wave washer and bearing cover onto the axle 4. Apply a light coat of grease to the bearing contact area of the axle (Figure 14.12). The grease areas should be about 1 inch (25 mm) wide. On the drive side, start at the bearing seal. On the non-drive side, start at the splines and apply toward the drive side of the axle. Figure 14.12. Greasing the axle 5.
To Remove The Bottom Bracket Bearings The Speed Concept bottom bracket bearing system is designed to be a slip fit. However, after the first installation some bearings might be tight. If the bearings do not easily come out by hand, you may use the following method to remove them. 1. Slide the crank axle into the bearing so that the bearing is over the non-drive side of the axle, about 1 inch (25 mm) from the non-drive end. 2. Gently rock the axle while you pull the axle out.
Shimano HollowTech These instructions explain how to install a Shimano HollowTech (Figure 1) in a new Speed Concept. To complete the installation, you will also need the Shimano instructions, available at: http://techdocs.Shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Dura-Ace/FC-78007803/SI_1F30H_En_v1_m56577569830605111.pdf. Part description Shimano Kit 404699 Ceramic kit 411813 Tools and materials required 1. • Crankset and bottom bracket 2. • Shimano FC16 crank arm installation tool 3.
To Install The Bearings 1. Apply a liberal coat of grease to the contact surfaces of one bearing and the drive side of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.16). 2. Slide a bearing onto the installation tool. Either side of the bearing is the “right side.” Figure 14.16. Greasing the bearing and the frame seat 3. Press one bearing into the drive side of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.17). 4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the other bearing on the non-drive side. Figure 14.17.
4. Apply a light coat of grease to the bearing contact area of the axle (Figure 14.20). The grease areas should be about 1 inch (25 mm) wide. On the drive side, start at the bearing seal. On the non-drive side, start at the splines and apply toward the drive side of the axle. Figure 14.20. Greasing the axle 5. Insert the axle through the drive-side bearing in the bottom bracket (Figure 14.21). Figure 14.21. Sliding the axle through the bearings To Install The Non-Drive Side Crankarm 1.
To Remove The Bottom Bracket Bearings The Speed Concept bottom bracket bearing system is designed to be a slip fit. However, after the first installation some bearings might be tight. If the bearings do not easily come out by hand, you may use the following method to remove them. 1. 1. Slide the crank axle into the bearing so that the bearing is over the non-drive side of the axle, about 1 inch (25 mm) from the non-drive end. 2. 2. Gently rock the axle while you pull the axle out.
Campagnolo UltraTorque The Speed Concept uses a special bearing system that has no parts that thread into the frame. Instead, the bearings are a slip-fit into the frame. However, the Campagnolo UltraTorque system requires you to attach bearing supports (seal seats) to the Speed Concept bottom bracket shell (Figure 1). This section explains how to do that. Part Description Campagnolo Kit The seal seats might fit into the frame tightly. In this case, you might need to tap the cups with a soft-faced mallet.
To Install The Seal Seats 1. Clean all surfaces to be bonded (bottom bracket shell, seal seats) with alcohol wipes or similar (Figure 14.25). Figure 14.25. Cleaning bonding surfaces with an alcohol wipe 2. Apply a thin film of LocTite Primer to the outer step of the bearings cups and the outer shoulder of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.26). Allow the primer to evaporate completely. 3. Apply LocTite 638 to the faced of the seal seat that contacts the bottom bracket shell. Figure 14.26.
Figure 14.29. Greasing the bearing cups 3. Insert the wave washer into the non-drive side seal seat (Figure 14.30). Figure 14.30. Inserting the Wave washer (after the washer) on the non-drive side 4. Slide the non-drive side axle through the seal seat and bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.31). Figure 14.31. Inserting the non-drive side axle To Install The Drive Side Bearings 1. Insert a washer into the drive side seal seat. 2.
3. Slide the drive side axle through the seal seat and bottom bracket shell (Figure 9). 4. Line up the splines of the bottom bracket axle and press the axle together. If necessary, tap the ends together with the heel of your palms. 5. Insert the crank bolt from the drive side (Figure 10) and tighten to the torque specifications (see page 38). 6. Follow the steps in “Inspecting the bottom bracket.
FSA MegaExo AL Part Description FSA These instructions and parts are for the aluminum FSA cranks only. The current “B” kit will not work for FSA carbon cranks. BB90 bearing kit “B” The Speed Concept uses a special bearing system that has no parts that thread into the frame. Instead, the bearings are a slip-fit into the frame (Figure 11). This section explains how to install the bearings and crankset. The bearings might fit into the frame tightly.
To Install The Bearings 1. Apply a liberal coat of grease to the contact surfaces of one bearing and the drive side of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.34). Figure 14.34. Greasing the bearing and the frame saddle 2. With the plastic bearing shield facing out, press one bearing into the drive side of the bottom bracket shell (Figure 14.35). 3. Repeat Steps 1-2 for the other bearing on the non-drive side. Figure 14.35.
To Install The Non-Drive Side Crankarm 1. Align the non-drive crank arm with the groove on the axle and slide the crank onto the axle. The non-drive crank arm should point 180 degrees opposite of the drive-side crank arm. 2. Install the FSA crank bolt and tighten to their torque specifications (Figure 14.38). 3. Follow the FSA instructions to complete the installation. 4. Follow the steps in “Inspecting the bottom bracket.” Figure 14.38.
Crankset Troubleshooting This section describes problems that occasionally occur, and possible solutions. If these solutions do not solve a problem, contact Customer Service. Bearing Play In A GXP Crank Or Bottom Bracket Assembly The crank feels loose when grasped at the pedal end and rocked side-to-side. Cause Solution Wave washer not compressed fully First, verify that the crank has been tightened to the torque specifications (see page 38).
Crank Is Rubbing Or There Is Excessive Drag If you notice that the crank arms rotate poorly, there are several possible issues. Cause Solution Out of spec or bent non-drive metal seal Install a new metal seal (same Part Number: 282865). We have revised the metal seal by adding a ring of material, 0.3 mm thick, to the seal around the inner diameter. This will move the outer edge of the seal away from the bearing. • The inside chamfer of the metal seal (Figure 14.
