Setup guide
page 11
You can do this at the back of both Main speakers, or at the Subwoofer’s TO SPEAKERS terminals, but
never at both locations. The lead that was on the Positive (+) terminal should be switched to the Negative (—)
terminal, and vice versa. As a safety measure, ALWAYS turn the amplier off before making the switch.
Now listen to the same musical passage as you did earlier, concentrating on the mid-bass region. If you hear
less bass, the original connection (or switch position) was correct. If you hear more bass, the new connection
(or switch) is correct.
You need to perform this test because when Main speakers are located separate from a Subwoofer, each
speaker is at a different distance from your ear. In some cases, the difference will be just enough so that the
output from the Subwoofer arrives out of phase with the output of the Satellites. When this happens, that
critical mid-bass is actually cancelled. You should re-do this test any time you move your speakers.
If you want to experiment further, move the Main speakers either towards or away from your listening position,
making changes in small increments. This will “focus” the system’s sound to its optimum. When
you hear the best combination of stereo image localization and maximum impact and output in the mid-bass,
you have the ideal location.
9. PROTECTING YOUR SPEAKERS
An important factor to consider with any loudspeaker system is the potential for speaker damage. Even though
your MK speakers have extremely high power handling capability (especially for Main speakers), they can still
be damaged by relatively low powered ampliers.
While very few MK speakers are actually returned for service, the vast majority of those returned are not
for manufacturing defects. Instead, they are returned because they have been over driven, almost always
because the amplier or receiver used was underpowered and was driven into clipping distortion.
This damage is considered abuse, and is not necessarily covered under warranty.
This clipping distortion occurs when the demands of the music are greater than the amplier’s available power.
It can occur at 20 watts with a small amplier, or at 400 watts with a large amplier. When this happens, the
amplier’s output waveform (which should look like a smooth arc) is “clipped” off, exhibiting a at top instead of
the arc.
This “clipped” waveform contains multiples of the original amplied frequencies, sometimes at higher levels
than the original signal itself. For tweeters, this can be very damaging, as this distortion is well above the
audible range (where you are unable to hear it), and where the tweeter is most vulnerable to damage.
When an amplier “clips”, it generates a high level of high frequency energy (much higher than normal
program material) which passes through the crossover to the tweeter. This energy can overheat the tweeter in
a matter of seconds and destroy it.
When this happens, the sound becomes harsh and grating, and a break-up is often audible in the bass
frequencies. It will become uncomfortable to listen to, especially when compared to a slightly lower volume
level. When you are listening at high volume levels, be aware of the onset of clipping distortion, and turn the
volume down slightly if the sound takes on the character described above.
When tone controls or equalizers are used to boost frequencies, the problem occurs much more rapidly. Even
a small boost of low or high frequencies can easily double the power requirement and lead to amplier clipping
at moderate levels. Therefore, you should use your tone controls judiciously, avoiding extreme boosts of the
bass and treble controls, especially when you are listening at high volume levels.