I N S T R U C T I O N M A N U A L PHANTOM NEW YORK PILOT BOAT, 1868 Technical Characteristics Scale: 1/8” = 1’ 0” (1:96) Length: 13-1/2” Height: 13-1/2” Hull Width: 2-1/2” Model Shipways Kit No.
Model Shipways Kit No. 2027 PHANTOM New York Pilot Boat, 1868 By George F. Campbell, 1960 Updated Instruction Manual By Ben Lankford Incorporating suggestions by model builder, Arthur Glaser The Model Shipways plans for Phantom were prepared in 1960 by Mr. George F. Campbell, who passed away several years ago. Mr. Campbell was a noted British marine artist, author, naval architect, and historian. He was a member of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects.
CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS Brief History Introduction/Credits Before You Begin How to Work With the Plans & Parts What You’ll Need to Start Construction Painting & Staining the Model Pg 2 Pg 2 Pg 4 Pg 4 Pg 5 Pg 6 Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull 1. Hull Templates 2. Carving the Hull 3. Carving the Deck & Bulwarks Pg 6 Pg 6 Pg 6 Pg 6 Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures 1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost 2. Installing the Rudder 3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull 4.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN The Phantom is an interesting model for beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a solid hull which has been machined carved from select, mediumhard, fine-grained basswood. This style hull provides a quick and easy lesson in the basic shapes and proportions of hull design and helps to develop woodworking skills. Although the exterior of the Phantom hull has been carved close to the hull lines as shown on the plans, further carving and sanding is necessary for reasons of accuracy.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION with fine sandpaper. It is also suggested that you clean the fittings thoroughly with warm soapy water before applying primer. Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry before painting. 6. Soldering & Working with Brass The Phantom had some iron fittings that you can make from brass which you solder together. However, you may desire to use the simplified methods shown on plan sheet 3 to eliminate much of the soldering.
PAINTING & STAINING It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Proper timing in application of finishes and the use of masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces.
difficult part, so work slowly and be careful not to break off the bulwarks as you carve (see figure 6). After carving, sand the surfaces smooth. FIG. 2 - Carving the Hull Template The deck will be covered with the scored planking sheet included in the kit, unless you desire to lay individual planks as an option. In any case, you must first take a chisel and square up the corners at the deck step, the transom, and at the bow, and sand the deck smooth (see figure 7).
STAGE B FIG. 8 - Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES 1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost Pre-cut the keel, stem and sternpost and install them (see figure 8). Make sure the grain of the wood is in line with the piece. Use some scarf joints as shown in the sketch. Use pins or dowels to position the parts before gluing. Scrape off any glue squeeze-out. Fill any gaps remaining at the glue joints with wood filler and then sand. Glue Pins Scarf joint FIG.
7. Coppering the Hull FIG. 12 - Waterway Nibbing Strake Waterway You have the option of painting the hull bottom a copper color, or installing the copper included in the kit. If you plan to copper the hull, now is the time to do it before you get any more detail on deck. Glue Cut off to add waterway To copper your Phantom, the kit includes a roll of 1/4”-wide self-stick copper strip. You can use the strip in long lengths and scribe the seams, or cut off individual plates.
STAGE C STAGE D STAGE E MOUNTING THE HULL ADDING THE HULL DETAILS MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION Before proceeding with additional work it is best to mount the hull. This step will help prevent details from becoming damaged during handling and will allow you to make any alignments that require a true waterline. Proper mounting of the hull is very important and will allow the accurate building and aligning of the remainder of the model.
FIG. 16 - Taper On Masts & Spars Center of a yard, heel of a mast, or maximum diameter of a gaff or boom Straight line Minimum diameter Maximum diameter This is the desired curve. Mathematically it is a parabola. It's very close to the arc of a circle. Simply taper the spar gradually from maximum diameter to the end. For yards, make sure both sides are the same. FIG.
STAGE F FIG. 19 - Seizings FAKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR GENERAL RIGGING INFORMATION Tuck up & glue Slip knot For this model you will be concerned with six different basic types of lines: STANDING RIGGING - 1. Shrouds: there are a total of 6, three on each side of the ship. They are fixed lines that support the lower masts and run from the mast bands on the mastheads to deadeyes and chainplates along the outside of the ship. 2.
STAGE G STANDING RIGGING FIG. 22 - Gaff Rigging Details Topping lift At main only gaff topsail sheet block sheet knotted off or omitted Peak halliard 1. Bowsprit Rigging Begin the standing rigging with the bowsprit. Plan Sheet 2 shows enlarged views of the rigging and Plan Sheet 3 shows some model simplifications. Where paper strip is shown for a simplified iron band, you could also use some of the selfstick copper stripping included in the kit.
RIGGING LINE DIAMETERS FIG. 24 - Jib & Fore Staysail Halliards & Downhauls .10mm (.004") Halliard Jib stay .20mm (.008") Hook together Jib & Forestay sail similar .25mm (.010") Downhaul .40mm (.016") .50mm (.020") .60mm (.024") .75mm (.030") .80mm (.032") FIG. 25 - Rope Coils Belay line, glue & cut off end add rope coil separately .90mm (.035") Fine thread Thread knot Round or oval stick about 3/8" D ALTERNATE COIL Wrap a coil over the thread .95mm (.037") 1.00mm (.039") 1.20mm (.
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