Instruction manual

10
STAGE C STAGE D STAGE E
MOUNTING THE HULL
Before proceeding with additional work it
is best to mount the hull. This step will
help prevent details from becoming dam-
aged during handling and will allow you
to make any alignments that require a
tr
ue waterline. Proper mounting of the
hull is very important and will allow the
accurate building and aligning of the
remainder of the model. While any mod-
eler can devise his own mounting, this kit
contains a mounting board and launching
ways system. A second option, is the use
of brass pedestals which can be purchased
separately.
1. Launching Ways
This type of mounting is most suitable
for models without sails. A separate set of
instructions for the ways is included in
the kit.
2. Mounting Board with Two
Pedestals
If you decide to use the mounting board
and pedestals, drill the pilot holes for the
pedestals. The model should sit with the
waterline parallel to the baseboard. If
something went wrong and the balance is
off, you can add a brass shim under one
pedestal to correct it. One pedestal should
be longer than the other, so buy the cor-
rect lengths.
Note: It is recommended that either
choice mounting piece be finished before
mounting the Hull Assembly into place.
During mounting, be sure that the rails of
the hull are level with the mount. Future
alignments, especially the masting, will be
gauged fr
om this base.
ADDING THE HULL DETAILS
With the model mounted, you are now
ready to add the hull details. Mark the
location of all parts in light pencil.
Measure from some bench mark such as a
mast hole, deck step, or the centerline.
1. Wheelbox, Companionways,
& Skylight
Make these parts from the solid wood
blocks provided in the kit, or you could
build them up from sheet wood (see fig-
ure 15 for some details). The steering
wheel is a Britannia casting. Paint it to
look like a wooden wheel.
The skylight has round bars over the
glass. However, at this model scale this
detail is almost impossible. You can paint
the glass area light blue, and if you feel
capable, paint some fine black lines to
represent the bars.
2. Britannia Castings
The cockpit coaming, hawse pipe lips,
anchor, stove pipe, fife rails, ventilator,
pumps, winch bitts, cleats, and bollards
are all Britannia castings. Clean them up,
prime, and paint the parts before
installing them on the model. Most of
these fittings require that you drill holes
in the deck for inserting the fittings. Use a
small amount of glue in the holes and be
careful not to have any glue squeeze-out.
For the fife rails, make sure the belaying
pins holes are clean. You can glue the
brass pins in the holes before installing
the fife rails.
For some scratch-building practice, try
making some wooden or brass fittings and
substitute them for the Britannia castings.
FIG. 15 - Companionway
MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION
The mast and spar dowels included in the
kit are round, but not tapered. True to
scale, masts and spars should be tapered
along their full length. Note also that the
ends of the boom, gaffs, and masts are
stepped down to pr
ovide a shoulder for
an eye band.
1. Shaping the Lower & Top
Masts: Fore & Main
There are two mast assemblies for the
Phantom. They are a fore mast and main
mast and are built up in two sections:
lower and top. Each should be connected
at the doublings by mast caps and lower
band (fore) and spreader (main).
Establishing the Correct Curve of the
Masts: The correct shape of the masts is
shown on the plans. Each of the mast sec-
tions should be tapered in a slight (para-
bolic) curve and not in straight lines (see
figure 16 ). The best way to taper masts
from dowels is to cut the taper into
squares, then octagons, and finish by
sanding into circles (see figure 17 ). For
the Phantom, the diameters are rather
small, so you probably can just hand-sand
the tapers, or chuck them in an electric
drill and sand the taper.
Shaping the Mast Heads: As you shape
the masts, square up the mast head at the
top and cut the tenon for the mast cap
(see figure 18 ).
2. Assembling the Masts:
Fore & Main
Next, assemble the two top masts (the
fore is a signal pole) onto the two lower
masts by first gluing the caps in place.
The main mast has a spreader which can
be made fr
om brass wir
e. Install the top
-
masts, making sur
e they line up straight
with the lower masts. Plan sheet 2 shows
enlarged views of the mast details.
When the mast assemblies are complet-
ed, stain and varnish them and set them
aside to dry.
Note
: Even though sails may not be
installed, the fore and mainsail mast
hoops should be installed. These can be
made fr
om brass wir
e. W
ind a wir
e
around a dowel or drill bit slightly larger
than the mast. Then, cut the winding into
split rings. Glue or solder the ring togeth-
er. Place the rings on the masts before you
add the main boom rest and before
installing the mast assemblies.
Sliding top
Glue edge strips
or solid sheet for
top overhang
Solid block
Coaming strip, or
carve with block
Sheet
Strip
Carved
TRIM OPTIONS