Instruction manual

13
STAGE G
STAGE H
STANDING RIGGING
1. Bowsprit Rigging
Begin the standing rigging with the
bowsprit. Plan Sheet 2 shows enlar
ged
views of the rigging and Plan Sheet 3
shows some model simplifications. Wher
e
paper strip is shown for a simplified iron
band, you could also use some of the self-
stick copper stripping included in the kit.
2. Shrouds
The shrouds are the strong lines that sup-
port the masts laterally. They are attached
along the outside of the ship using chain
plates, lanyards and deadeyes. The chain
plates are made of brass wire or strip. To
set up the shrouds, make a temporary jig
of brass wire to space the deadeyes as you
do the seizings (see figure 21 and plan
sheet 2). Keep an eye on the masts as you
rig the shrouds, so you will not pull them
out of line.
3. Stays
Stays also are support lines for spars, but
more especially for masts in a fore and aft
direction. Install all the fore and aft stays
after the shrouds are completed (see plan
sheet 2 for enlarged details at the mast-
head).
Note that the main topmast back-stays
should set up to a tackle at the rail rather
than deadeyes. The tackle part is a run-
ning line, therefore it should be tan in
color. The fixed portion above the tackle is
black like the other stays.
4. Footropes
Footropes are required on the bowsprit
and the aft end of the main boom.
Beeswax these thoroughly so they will
hang in a smooth curve.
RUNNING RIGGING
1. Fore & Mainsail Rigging
Gaf
f and boom rigging details ar
e next
(see figur
es 22 and 23). The main gaf
f can
be rigged in the up position or down on
top of the boom. However, in the up posi-
tion the appearance is fuller. See the
model on the kit box.
The reef pendants and tackle can be omit-
ted if no sails ar
e installed.
2. Jib & Fore Staysail Rigging
Rig the Jib and Fore Staysail halliards and
downhauls as shown (see figure 24). Since
there are no sails, the sheets will be omit-
ted. If you add sails or furled sails, the
sheets must be included.
3. Main Topmast Staysail
& Gaff Topsail Rigging
These can be rigged similar to the jib.
Connect the halliar
ds and downhauls
together. The sheets can be omitted if no
sails are used, or you can include the
sheet and knot it off at a block.
FIG. 21 - Spacing the Deadeyes
with a Jig
4. Belaying the Running Rigging
The belaying points shown on the plans
illustrate a solution to belaying all the
lines, but it is certainly not the only solu-
tion. Lines were belayed differently on
various ships. Y
ou must, however, use
some common sense. The lines must lead
easily to the belaying points. Each belay-
ing point should have a coil of rope (see
figure 25 for some modeling ideas).
5. Final Touches
After all the rigging is in place, re-check
every line, and make sure all the seizings
are sound. If necessary, add another touch
of super glue to seizings. Check to see if
there are any shiny places on the rigging.
If necessary, touch up the standing rig-
ging with black paint, or black liquid shoe
polish. For running rigging, use a tan
stain, or brown liquid shoe polish.
Check to see if any of the painted wooden
parts were marred or scratched during the
rigging process and touch up as necessary.
Congratulations—you’ve done it! Your
model should now be complete. W
e
hope you like the results and look for-
ward to helping you with your next ship
modeling pr
oject.
FIG. 22 - Gaff Rigging Details
FIG. 23 - Main Boom Rigging Details
Pull tight & seize
Deadeye
Make a little
longer than
required. Let
lanyards pull
shrouds tight
T
emporary wir
e jig
Deck
To fife
rail
To rail
Throat
halliard
At main only gaff topsail sheet block sheet
knotted off or omitted
Main only gaff
topsail sheet
block
Peak lines to
boom (main)
fife rail (fore)
Peak halliard
Topping lift
Topping lift
To rail
Stopper cleats
for footropes
Reef pendant cleats
Cleat for
peak lines
To bollard
Traveler
Boom sheet
Footropes