Instruction manual

6
PAINTING & STAINING STAGE A
It may seem strange to begin an instruction
manual with directions on applying the fin-
ishes to the model. Not so! Much time and
effort can be saved, and a more professional
result can be obtained, if the finishing
pr
ocess is carried out during construction.
Proper timing in application of finishes and
the use of masking tape to define painted
edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks
and splotchy stained surfaces. In the end,
following these general suggestions will be
to your advantage.
Paint
Use a flat-finish paint such as the model
paints made by Floquil, Polly-S, Testors,
Humbrol, and Model Masters. You could
also use artist’s paints by Jo Sonja (used by
many bird carvers) or Holbein Acryla
Gouache. These paints are a combination
acrylic-gouache.
Paint Colors
The recommended color scheme for the
Phantom is shown on the plans.
Primer
Use a grey primer. Floquil is excellent. The
grey color will highlight sanding scratches
and other defects better than white primer.
Prime all woodwork to be painted, and
prime all metal fittings. Lightly sand the
primed items. Use a spackling compound,
such as Pic-n-Patch brand, to fill any scratch-
es and defects, then re-prime. Careful! Do
not prime parts to be stained or varnished.
Stains & Finishes
For natural finished wood, use a protective
coating after staining, such as low sheen
polyur
ethane varnish or the Floquil coat
-
ings. You can also use an oil-resin mix such
as natural Minwax. Floquil stain, or Minwax
stains can be used to tone the wood.
Brushes & Procedures
Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hair
artist brushes. A small pointed brush is good
for details. For the main hull areas, use a 1/4
to 1/2-inch flat brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a tack
rag. Apply your paint in smooth even
strokes, overlapping the strokes as you go.
Thin the paint enough to eliminate brush
str
okes, but not run. You will need four or
five coats of the light colors to cover the grey
primer, and maybe only two coats of the
dark. Check your finish between coats, and
sand or add spackle as necessary to get rid
of any blemishes.
Anywher
e two colors meet, use masking
tape. Electrician’s black plastic tape is ideal.
It leaves a nice edge and is not overly sticky
.
Do not use drafting tape. The edges ar
e
wrinkled and paint may run under them.
SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL
Sanding alone will not shape the hull
enough to precisely match the hull lines.
Actual carving should prove to be minimal,
but some carving is required, especially at
the rail, keel, bow, and stern areas. Particular
car
e should be taken to shape the stern
pr
operly, being certain to maintain the sym-
metry above the rudder.
1. Hull Templates
For exact carving to hull lines, a template is
required for the hull profile and each of the
nine stations (see figure 1). A template sheet
is provided in the kit, printed on heavy
stock paper. Cut the templates out carefully
with a No.11 hobby blade. Do not use scis-
sors! You will want a nice smooth edge.
2. Carving the Hull
Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 2”
x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to the
deck so the model can be held in a bench
vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of
the profile and correct it as necessary, using
a long sanding block (see figure 2).
Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines (where
hull meets keel), and station lines on the
model (see figure 3). Place the station marks
on the center of the hull bottom and on top of
the rail so the marks won’t be carved off as
you work. This illustration also shows where
excess wood must be removed from the hull.
Start carving approximately at Template
Station 5 (maximum beam) and progress for-
ward, then aft, using chisels and gouges to
cut away excess wood. Avoid carving
against the grain by shifting forward or aft
of Station 5 until you find a spot wher
e you
ar
e going with the grain. Basswood carves
easily so you probably won’t have much
problem with the grain.
Carve very slowly
, and take of
f a little wood
at a time. Fit the templates as you go, and
make sure they are fitted perpendicular to
the keel. Carve until the template fits reason-
ably well, then use sandpaper to obtain the
final shape. At first, the templates will not fit
too well. You must compare the template to
the hull and visually decide where to remove
wood. Cut a little off, then re-check the tem-
plate. Sand the stern with a sanding block.
Notice that along the top edge of the hull
there is a “waist”. The hull planking is thick-
er below the waist than in the bulwarks.
Consequently, there is a little step in the hull
side. The templates show this step.
Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines
(like waterlines) and the station lines on the
hull. Use these to visually check the shape of
the hull. Hold the hull at various angles, and
look to see if the pencil lines ar
e fair (even).
If you have any unfairness, dips or bumps,
they can usually be found with this visual
check.
You can also use a stiff stick of wood,
about 1/8-inch square, to lay on the hull at
various locations. Dips in the hull will show
up under the stick.
3. Carving the Deck & Bulwarks
Make yourself a temporary cradle to secure
the hull while carving (see figure 4). This
cradle also will serve to hold the model for
most of the remaining work. Make the cra-
dle so the model sits in it with its waterline
parallel to the baseboard and table. The top
of the cradle should be below the waterline.
Later, when you are ready to paint, or cop-
per, attach a pencil on top of a wooden
block, and slide it along the table to mark
the location of the waterline.
The machine-carved hull has bulwarks
approximately 3/16” thick. They are thicker
than required, so they won’t break while
inside the kit box. The upper surface should
be cut to the underside of the cap rail. After
you carve the outside of the hull, including
the step at the waist, the bulwarks will then
be only about 1/16” or 3/32” thick. If neces
-
sary, carve the inside of the bulwarks so that
the final bulwark thickness above the waist
is as close to 1/32” thick as you can get it
without damaging the bulwark (see figure 5
for what must be r
emoved). This is the most
FIG. 1 - Cutting Out the Hull Templates
RL
RL
Profile
(aft)
Pr
ofile
(fwd)
PROFILE
STATION
Cut out
with No. 11
hobby knife
Kit templates
CL
W
5
CL
R