Instruction manual

9
7. Coppering the Hull
You have the option of painting the hull
bottom a copper color, or installing the
copper included in the kit. If you plan to
copper the hull, now is the time to do it
befor
e you get any more detail on deck.
To copper your Phantom, the kit includes
a roll of 1/4”-wide self-stick copper strip.
Y
ou can use the strip in long lengths and
scribe the seams, or cut off individual
plates. Plan sheet 2 shows the size of plate
required.
With the hull upside down, use a pencil
to mark the seams on the hull as a guide.
Begin with the keel at the sternpost and
work up to the waterline and forward,
lapping the plates as you go. The plates
should be applied in belts (see figur
e 14).
Where one belt goes under the next belt,
this is called a gore end. A lower belt need
only go under the upper belt enough to
form a lap. The belt at the waterline is a
horizontal single strake.
Though not shown on the plans, the rud-
der should also be covered. See the photo
on the kit and on the sketch.
If you wish to simulate nails in the plating
(questionable at this scale) you can use a
pounce wheel to indent the copper. Such a
wheel is available from Model Expo.
The copper can be left to tarnish naturally,
or you can make it a weathered blue-green
by applying a chemical called Patina-It.
This is also available from Model Expo -
www.modelexpo-online.com
FIG. 12 - Waterway Nibbing Strake
FIG. 13 - Stanchions & Rail
FIG. 14 - Coppering the Hull
Waterway
Glue
Cut off to add waterway
Scored decking
Cut if including
the nibs
Pin
Rail
AFT
FWD
Waist
Scupper
slot
Top row of plates lap
over lower rows
Run this band of plates diago-
nally bow to stern
STERN
BOW
Cap on rudder
STERN PROFILE
Belt laps over lower
plates at stern
Keel
Cross-section
KEEL
LAPS
Knuckle
this plate