Instructions / Assembly

ManualsBrandsNantucket Pavers ManualsOutdoorsPatio-on-a-Pallet 120 in. x 120 in. Gray Variegated Basket-Weave York-Stone Concrete Paver (Pallet of 37-Pieces)

Table Of Contents

Before you start staking out the area to be excavated,

it’s a good idea (its the Law) to contact your local utility companies,

or Dig Safe, and ask them to mark all underground cables &

pipes. Allow about 72 hours advance notice for this service.

SITE LAYOUT & EXCAVATION

Call

DIG SAFE

first - it’s free!

1.800.344.7233

www.digsafe.com

Start with a corner stake and measure out your project area, leaving about a 6” - 12” leeway

from actual pavement edges for installation of edge restraints. Make sure your corner is 90 degrees!

Set a series of stakes along the perimeter of the excavation area and connect with taught string or nylon mason’s line.

Any pavement should always be sloped away from buildings for drainage, so you will need to grade the soil during

excavation. The minimum slope should be a 1” drop for every 5’, or about 1-1/2 % slope. (So, if you have a stake every

5 feet, drop the string 1” increments on each consecutive stake). You will measure all elevations and base

thickness from the initial string lines. Be sure to clearly mark the string position on each stake in case they are

accidently moved. Use the base material project chart to figure out how far down you have to dig. For “poor”

clay soils, always use the maximum base thickness. Now you’re ready to start digging!

After excavation of the area, be sure to compact the subgrade with a vibrating plate compactor. The compaction

must be uniform, thorough and complete before moving on to the next step.

Step

...1

Notes:

Do you have everything you need?

Gloves

Grub Hoe

Shovel

Wheelbarrow

Line Level

Mason Line

Tamper

Stiff-bristle Push Broom

Plate Compactor (Rental)

Paver Splitter (Rental)

Power Saw (Rental)

Diamond Blades

Marking Crayons

Knee Pads

Measuring Tape

Stakes

Duct Tape

Mason’s Chisel

Square Trowel

Utility Knife

Rubber Mallet

Level

Pry Bar

Rake

Steel or Bevel Square

Screed (1” to 1 1/2” steel pipe)

Screed Board (2 x 4 x 6 to 8”)

It is important to gather all the tools you need to do the job before you begin.

Having everything on site and handy will avoid unnecessary delays and hassles.

Using the right tool for each task makes your work easier and ensures a proper installation.

TOOLS CHECKLIST

Nantucket Pavers

INSTALLATION GUIDE

Step

Nantucket Pavers, Inc.

Summary of content (4 pages)

PAGE 1
Nantucket Pavers 1 Nantucket Pavers, Inc. INSTALLATION GUIDE Step TOOLS CHECKLIST It is important to gather all the tools you need to do the job before you begin. Having everything on site and handy will avoid unnecessary delays and hassles. Using the right tool for each task makes your work easier and ensures a proper installation.
PAGE 2
Nantucket Pavers 3 Step Nantucket Pavers, Inc. INSTALLATION GUIDE BASE INSTALLATION This step is critical to a successful paver project! It is essential to follow the correct procedure for base installation, without rushing, in order to avoid serious problems with your finished pavement Materials Start by using the correct base material, which should be a coarse gravel with a proportioned gradation of sand & stone. 3/4” Processed Gravel or Crusher Run is suggested.
PAGE 3
Nantucket Pavers 5 Step INSTALLATION GUIDE Nantucket Pavers, Inc. SETTING THE SAND BED Pavers are generally “dry set” in a bed of concrete sand. This method is not only easier and neater than others, it also allows for simple paver repairs or replacements - just pop up the damaged piece and replace with a new one! The biggest technical advantage of a sand bed installation method is the finished pavement flexibility and load expansion capabilities.
PAGE 4
Nantucket Pavers INSTALLATION GUIDE 6 Nantucket Pavers, Inc. LAYING Step All concrete pavers are made to perfectly interlock when placed along a straight line. Therefore, it is essential that you begin laying your pavers from a perfect 90 degree angle, preferably from one of the corners. Do not assume that all corners, even pre-existing building corners, are 90 degrees. Check! Once this is established, a series of strings or snapped chalk every 5 or 6 feet will help “keep you in line.