Kaos 60 manual

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
piece that serves as the main
gear support.
It is strongly recommended that
epoxy be used for this step to
give added strength.
Clamp the pieces together while
they dry, and you can guarantee
a good alignment by slipping
the end of the main gear wire
through the cutouts as shown here. Just make sure you don't glue the wire
in place - that won't be a good thing.
When the glue is cured, lightly sand the edges and make sure that the
hole remained clear. If not, carefully run a 5/32 drill through the hole to
clear things out.
n n Step 29 - Wing Assembly (MG2)
Locate one MG2 from LP1. This
is glued to the top of the MG1
assembly from the last step.
When the glue has cured,
carefully cut a radius where the
gear will pass from the groove
into the pre-cut hole as shown
here.
n n Step 30 - Wing Assembly (MG assembly)
Now the MG assembly is
glued in place. To make
sure this works as planned,
dry fit this first, and sand
as necessary. Also you can
use the main gear to aid in
alignment again, making
sure that the MG assembly is
properly aligned with the MG3
assembly already in place.
Make sure this assembly is properly glued to both ribs, as well as
the R2A and R3A pieces.
n n Step 31 - Wing Assembly (hinge supports)
On the plans are 4 suggested locations
for hinges. Use come scrap 1/4" square
balsa to add extra material to support the
hinges. Glue these to the inside of the
trailing edge stock in those spots.
n n Step 32 - Wing Assembly (sand trailing edge)
Just as you did on the top side, you need to very lightly sand the
trailing edge so it will continue the airfoil shape.
n n Step 33 - Wing Assembly (dowels)
Now it's time to mark and drill
the leading edge to accept
the wing hold dowel.
Using the two 1/4" pre-cut
holes in WH1 and WH2, drill
a small pilot hole in the center
of leading edge. It should be
in line with those two holes.
Enlarge the holes with a
reamer, or by stepping up to
a 3/16" drill, then to a 1/4".
Take it slow and remember
that thing about it being
easier to remove wood than put it back on.
n n Step 34 - Wing Assembly (dowels)
Remember those two short
lengths of 1/4" dowel you cut way
back at the start? Time to find one
of them.
Round the ends of each one
either by hand, or do it like I do
- chuck it up in a drill spin it like
a little lathe. Use sandpaper to
quickly round off one end,
then the other.
Once rounded off, insert the
dowel into the leading edge,
through WH1 and WH2
and butting up against the
jig dowel. You should have
roughly 1/2" to 5/8" dowel
protruding from the leading
edge as shown here. Glue
the dowel in place on the
back of the leading edge, to WH1 and WH2 . But not to the jig
dowel as that would create a big problem.
n n Step 35 - Wing Assembly (R2)
Now it’s time to cut-
away the center of R2.
Here are the before
and after photos to
help show what needs
to be done.
Make sure that the
area is completely
clean and smooth,
as later on this will
be a channel where
the dihedral brace
will slide through. The
cleaner it is now, the
easier it will be to slide in the brace when it’s time.
Take your time and use a gentle touch in this step as you don’t
want to cut more than you should, nor do you want to damage the
sheer webs in these spots as it could weaken the wing or cause a
misalignment.
Before
cutting
After
cutting