OSMW Trophy Racer Instructions

ManualsBrandsOld School ManualsHobbyOSMW Wedell Williams Trophy Racer Kit (Was $215.95)

CONSTRUCTION

MANUAL

www.oldschoolmodels.com

Using the Manual

Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start

the step. Test-ﬁt the parts together to make sure they

ﬁt properly. If necessary trim to ﬁt.

Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).

These are so you can keep track of your progress

while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,

as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,

these steps must be performed two times.

• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be

considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not

assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause

injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.

• You must assemble this model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing

so may result in an unsafe or un-ﬂyable model. In a few

cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.

In those instances the written instructions should be

considered as correct.

• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

• You must use a R/C radio system that is in ﬁrst-

class condition, a correctly sized power system and

components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)

throughout the building process.

• You must correctly install all R/C and other components

so that the model operates correctly on the ground

and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a

suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps

to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)

• You must check the operation of the model before every

ﬂight to insure that all equipment is operating and that

the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to

check clevises or other connectors often and replace

them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not ﬂown this

type of model before, we recommend that you get the

assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for

your ﬁrst ﬂights. If you’re not a member of a club, your

local hobby shop has information about clubs in your

area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

• While this kit has been ﬂight tested to exceed normal

use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress

ﬂying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than

one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress

points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the

increased stress.

Remember: Take your time and follow

the instructions to end up with a well-

built model that is straight and true.

Wedell-Williams Prototype

Speciﬁcations:

• Wingspan: 44 in. • Wing Area: 560 sq in.

• Airframe Length: 34.75 in.

• Weight: airframe only: 2.25 lbs.

ready-to-ﬂy - 3.75-4.5 lbs.

Summary of content (18 pages)

PAGE 1
CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Using the Manual Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they fit properly. If necessary trim to fit. Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two). These are so you can keep track of your progress while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes, as in the construction of the left and right wing halves, these steps must be performed two times.
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WARNING READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS MODEL. A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio, powerplant, electronics and batteries.
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• • • • • Online Supplementary Photos one 12” for throttle if glow powered) 8 clevises for the pushrods 2 - 3” diameter wheels 1 - tailwheel assembly Covering We realize that the smaller black-andwhite photos in this manual might not show some of the steps as clearly as you might want. So we’ve anticipated this and made these photos available on our website.
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Step 4 - Wing Assembly (WB2 & WB2A) Locate one WB2 and one WB2A sheer web from BP20. Note that these have a small circle engraved on one side. This designates the side that should be inserted into R1. Place these in position so the tabs in WB2 fit all the way into R1 (WB2 in front, WB2A in back. When satisfied with the fit and location, glue these pieces in place. Make sure that the WB2’s are glued to the spar as well as R1. Step 5 - Wing Assembly (R2) Locate R2 from BP5 and two WB3 sheer webs.
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Step 15 - Wing Assembly (attach R6) Fit the R6 assembly in position. Make sure it is vertical and the WB4 tabs are properly inserted in the slots of R6. When satisfied with the fit and location, glue R6 in place. edge sheeting. It fits in place as shown, butting up against the trailing edge balsa strip. When satisfied with the fit and location, glue to all of the ribs and the trailing edge. Step 16 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge) Remove one of the 1/4” x 1”x 36” balsa sticks.
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Step 25 - Wing Assembly (cutting R1 & R2) Carefully cut away the center of the R1 and R2 ribs, leaving a box as shown in the photo. Carefully sand the inside of the box so the edges are smooth and flush. This forms three sides of the dihedral box and needs to be smooth and free from edges so the dihedral braces will slide in smoothly when joining the wing halves later. Step 26 - Wing Assembly (cut upper spar) Lightly sand the edges of the bottom Lightly Lightly sand here.
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Step 33 - Wing Assembly (R3A) Carefully remove the wing half from the board and flip it over. Locate one R3A from sheet BP5 and a small piece of left-over 1/8” balsa sheeting. This sheeting is used as a spacer to position R3A in place as shown here. Be careful not to glue the 1/8” sheeting in place when you glue R3A in position. Step 34 - Wing Assembly (removing alignment feet) Now take a bit of time to cut away all of the alignment feet that are on each rib.
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Step 43 - Wing Assembly (center sheeting) Just as you did in step 29, it’s time to use some of the scrap 1/16” sheeting from the BP pieces to make the center sheeting. You’ll also have to cut a couple of smaller strips to fill the gap between the edge of the servo mount and the edge of the R1 rib. Step 44 - Wing Assembly (lower cap strips) Now it’s time to install the lower cap strips, using the same technique as you did when cutting and installing the upper cap strips.
PAGE 9
Step 55 - Stab Assembly Locate the two S1 pieces from BP8 & BP11, the two S2 pieces from BP15 and S5 from BP14. These form the stab halves as shown here. Using your straight edge as shown will help align the two halves perfectly to each other. Pin the S2 pieces in place first, then glue S5 in place. Finally, glue the S1 pieces in place. Step 56 - Stab Assembly (ribs) Using the same 1/4” square balsa strip from step 53, cut the “ribs” that form the interior of both stab halves.
PAGE 10
Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly (LG) Remove the fuselage from your board and flip it over. Lightly sand the starboard side. Locate the two LG pieces from LP2. These are glued in place to form the internal landing gear support. Pay attention to the orientation of the pre-cut holes so they all line up. Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical fin sheeting) Locate the VF SHEET from BP21. They are used to cover the vertical fin. (Some kits require 2 pieces to make each VF SHEET.
PAGE 11
Step 76 - Wheel Pants (P1) Remove the axle shafts from the wheel pant assembly. Now locate two of the P1s from BP2. Carefully glue one to each side of the wheel pant to complete the assembly. Now go back to step 73 and repeat the process to form the second wheel pant. Step 77 - Sanding (airframe) At this point you should have 10 large sub-assemblies and the radio hatch - just as pictured to the right. Now is the time to get quite familiar with the sanding tools of your choice.
PAGE 12
wing half. When satisfied with the fit, mix more epoxy, and attach the other wing half to the fuselage - again making sure it’s 90° to the fuselage and in-line with the other wing. Step 85 - Final airframe assembly (stab attachment) Locate the stab assembly and test fit into the slot in the rear of the fuselage. Sand the slot as necessary to obtain a good fit - make sure not to sand the stab.
PAGE 13
This completes the airframe assembly of the Trophy Racer. You should now have a completed airframe ready for covering, as well as radio and power installation. Here’s a picture of the prototype Trophy Racer at this stage. switch. Location of the battery will most likely be determined when balancing the model in later steps. We mounted ours under TR tank/ battery tray, on the port side. The switch was mounted into the radio hatch. Power pre-installation.
PAGE 14
S Logos, numbers, etc. If you want to use graphics similar to the ones we used, Old School Model Works FS1 has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very well known provider of custom graphics for R/C models. We have supplied them with the artwork needed to cut the correct size logos and LP4 numbers. You can order straight from them, choosing the colors and numbers that work for you. FS2Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.
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Aileron 3/4” up/down - 25% expo Elevator 3/4” up/down - 30% expo Rudder 1” left/right - 15% expo For the average pilot, we recommend starting with these settings as it provides a good balance for a smooth flight. As you learn the flying characteristics of your Trophy Racer, adjust as need to suit your flying style. (Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each of the clevises.
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Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.
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