8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed Assembly Manual Revision #23 January 10, 2019 Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed. Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly. Safety Points and Other Considerations Our products are built for use based on proper installation and normal residential use, on level ground. Please follow the instruction manual when building your Shed and retain the manual for future maintenance purposes.
Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed. Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly. D. Roof Section Parts List: A. Floor Section 3 6 3 3 3 - 45 1/2” x 75” Floor - Joist Frames 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Center Floor Joists - Unattached 45 1/2” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames 45 3/8” x 74 7/8 - Plywood Floor - Large 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small Bottom Skirting 10 - 1/2” x4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Side Bottom Skirting B.
8x12 SPACEMAKER HARDWARE PACKAGE Hardware Kit (Provided) x 12 3” Silver x 330 2 1/2” 3/4” Black Headed 1 1/2” x 162 2” Shingle 1 1/2” x 38 2” Finishing Black Headed Tee Hinge x 6 Door Handle x 2 x 24 x 50 x 336 x2 x 248 1 1/4” x 17 3/4” Square Drive Bit Ridge Board Connector x 2 Barrel Bolt Cane Bolt Simpson Strong Tie (Roof) x 8 Tools Required Hammer (Not Provided) Screw Gun/Drill Level Tape Measure Pliers Safety Equipment Required Safety Glasses Toll Free 1-888-658-165
A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is 96” wide x 136 1/2” deep. Plywood Floor Small (3) Plywood Floor Large (3) Floor Joist Frames Small (3) Concrete Pad (optional foundation method) Floor Joist Frames Large (3) Floor Runners (10) Flush with framing 1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as illustrated above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame.
3. Fron t of Sh ed Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated at left. There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections. The Footprint for the floor when attached together will be 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide. 4. Attach each large and small floor joist frame together with 6 - 2 1/2” screws per section. 96” 136 1/2” 5. Complete all large and small frame attachments. Screw each completed section together with 8 - 2 1/2” screws. 7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
centered on floor frame. Concrete Slab Foundation 9. Complete all Floor Runners. 10. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip Foundations Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor runners will sit on your foundation. It is important to note that having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary between regions. Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the floor runners. the floor over and place on your foundation.
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts prior to starting. Gable Walls (4) Front Top Plates (3) Rear Top Plates (3) Side Top Plates (4) Angle cut on side (2 per side) Solid Wall Panel (7) Narrow Wall Panel 12” wide (2) Window Wall Panel (1) Door Header and End Pieces Window Insert (1) nt o Fr 13. Lay out all the wall panels and become familiar with their location.
Bottom Wall Plate 14. Starting with Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down. Position and attach Wall Plate to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so plates are flush with framing. 15. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will overhang the floor by 1/2”. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their upright position.
d oli de Si Rea all W r So lid W all S 17. Position rear solid wall into place on plywood floor. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3- 2 1/2” screws. Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Do Not Attach Walls To Floor Until Step 26 Optional - Caulking seams will help prevent moisture from entering your shed. Caulking not included in kit. 18. ar Re lid So all W 2x3 wall framing flush with floor framing.
Dab caulk in siding channel on both sides of window. Run caulk in siding gap at top. Requires a large amount. 19. Locate Window Inserts for Regular Window Walls. Before installing, dab caulk in siding channel on both sides of window opening. This will prevent water from getting in behind window. Position window in cavity and secure with 8 - 1 1/4” screws. Caulk gap between siding and window at top. This requires a large amount of caulking but is important to fill.
Fr on to fS he d 20. Next, complete all side wall panel attachments. Typically, Window Wall Panel is positioned in middle of side. Attach wall studs together as per Step 17. Wall panel will sit flush with floor framing at front of shed. Front of She d 21. Complete all remaining side wall attachments. Attach wall studs together as per Step 17. Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com Page 11 sales@outdoorlivingtoday.
22. Complete both Narrow Wall attachments making sure 2x3 wall framing is flush with floor framing, and siding of wall is overhanging the floor by approximately 1/2”. Dado cut facing to the top and outwards. Sits flush with inside of wall framing 23.There are 2 - 6 1/2” Door Header End Plates. Align dado cut on top facing outward and flush to inside of wall framing. Attach each with 2 - 2 1/2” screws as illustrated above. Make sure joints are tight. Push walls in if required. 24.
25. When all walls are attached together, check alignment with the floor. Bottom wall framing should sit flush with outside of floor framing. Confirm 67” wide door opening at bottom. When positioned correctly, fasten bottom wall plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” screws per wall panel. Optional - Caulking seams will help prevent moisture from entering your shed. Caulking not included in kit. Angle screws into perimeter Floor Joists. Ca u Floor lking Confirm 67” Wide Door Opening at Bottom 26.
Si de To p Pl at e 27. Next, attach the 4 Side Top Plates (2 per side). The side top plates are angle cut down the length. Once again, position top plate on wall plate so it is flush with inside of wall plate. Side plate should also be flush with Front Top Plate. Secure with 4 - 2” screws per piece. Rear Top Plates Plate flush to inside of wall framing 28. Position the Rear Top Plates on rear wall top framing to complete. Use 4 - 2” screws per piece.
Gable Framing flush with Top Plate 30. Lift up a completed gable section and place on top of Rear Top Plate on wall. The rear gable framing should sit flush with the inside of the top plate. Gable Framing straight edge Flashing to overhang wall 31. The gable should be centered sideways (left to right) on the top plate. Hint: use a straight edge to check the angle of the gable framing and top plate. Both angles should line up. Adjust gable accordingly. 32.
33. Complete positioning and attachment of front gable as per Step 32. 34. Locate both Vertical Door Jambs and position flush against front narrow wall stud. The Jamb is 3” wide and will sit flush to outside of wall siding. When positioned correctly, secure Jamb using 4 - 2 1/2” screws. Complete both sides. Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com Page 16 sales@outdoorlivingtoday.
C. & D. Rafter and Roof Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section. Identify all parts prior to starting. (Roof Filler Shingles Missing) Middle Roof Panels (2) Outside Roof Panels (2) Outside Roof Panels (2) Metal Ridge Board Connectors (2) Ridge Boards (4) 84” & 52 1/2”long Soffits (4) 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” Roof Rafters (9 per side) 18 Tot. Roof Gussets (3) Metal Ridge Board Connector 8 - 3/4” Screws Ridge Board Ridge Board 35.
Doubled up rafters Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and completed Ridge Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to the right. Double up Rafters as illustrated. Screw Ridge Board doubled up Rafters together with 3 - 2 1/2” screws per piece. Note: completed rafter section will be flipped over in Step 38. 36. ard Important: Pilot Hole Ridge Board to prevent splitting! o eB g Rid 2 1/2” screws into doubled up rafters. Soffits 37.
39. Starting with one side, lift completed rafter section up. (make sure Soffit is facing down). Rafter should rest on gable framing. Ri dg e Bo ar d Soffit er Raft gable framing Gable Notch 40. Slide Rafter Section up on gable framing until bottom of Ridge Board slips into gable notch. 41. When Rafter Section is correctly positioned, outside rafters will sit equally on gable framing and Soffit will sit approximately 1/8” away from wall panels. Soffit should sit approx.
42. Place 2nd completed Rafter Section on gable wall framing. Position as per Steps 39 & 40. Offsetting Metal Ridge Board Connectors rd e dg Ri a Bo Rafter Gable Notch 43. At the peak, align Ridge Boards so they are flush together and secure them with 12 - 1 1/4” screws. Important: if there is a gap between Ridge Boards, try pushing side walls closer together from outside. Walls should be 91” apart at top from inside of wall plate to wall plate.
91” across 45. Roof Gussets are positioned on middle rafters. Prior to attaching, make sure Side Walls are properly aligned. Have two helpers push the front and rear walls at the top from the outside of shed until inside to inside measurement between Side Wall Plates is 91”. When correct, slide gusset up, use level to square gusset and attach to rafters with 4 - 2” screws. Complete remaining Gussets. 46. Secure Rafters to Top Wall Framing with one 3” screw per rafter.
Roof Plywood flush with rafter end. 48. Place Outside Roof Panel so it sits flush on 3rd rafter from the outside (doubled up rafter). Plywood on roof should be flush with end of rafter at bottom. From the outside, screw down through bottom and top row of shingles into rafter with 2 - 2.5” screw. 49. Locate Middle Roof Panel and place on middle rafters. 50. With Middle Roof Panel aligned as per Step 48, tack panel down to rafters with 2 - 2.5” screws in the bottom row of shingles.
Outside Panel Middle Panel Outside Panel 52. Position and attach all Roof Panels as per Steps 48-51. 53. Make sure to attach Roof Panels down to Rafters as shown above. Attach above the exposure line. Exposure Line 54. Roof Filler Shingles are included to cover roof seams. Starting at the bottom, slide the first Long Shingle in until flush with other bottom shingles. See diagram step 55 for proper attachment. 55.
Mi d Ra Roof Plywood fte r Angle screwed 3 - 2 1/2” screws angle screwed in each Mid Rafter 57. To further secure roof panels, from the inside, drill pilot holes in each Mid Rafter (3 per Rafter) on an angle. Using 3 - 2 1/2” screws, secure rafters to roof plywood. Note: from outside, have a helper push roof panel down so plywood sits flush against rafter when securing. E. Misc.
58. Attach Bottom Skirting around the base of the shed. Skirting will hide floor framing. The front & rear skirting pieces will meet together in the center. Gaps on outside will be covered by Wide Trim pieces later. Start with side skirting and attach with 4 - 1 1/2” finishing nails per piece. Attach additional 1 1/4” screws on bottom edge of wall siding into bottom wall plate to further secure bottom siding to framing. Drill pilot holes in siding to prevent splitting.
Narrow Wall Trim Rear Wall Trim 61. Attach Narrow Wall Trim (4 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79”) where wall panels come together and leave a seam. Position trim equally on each wall and use 8 - 1 1/2” finishing nails per piece. Align as per Corner Trim . Attach Rear Wall Trim (77 1/2” long) as above. Facia/Roof Nailing Strips (4 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48”) 62. Attach Facia/Roof Nailing Strips (3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48”) to the underside edge of the plywood roof.
Pentagon Facia Plate 64. Attach Side Facia to roof rafter ends. There are 2 Facia pieces per side. Secure with 8 - 1 1/2” finishing nails per piece. 65. Attach Pentagon Facia Plate where End Facia meets at the peak. Use 4 - 1 1/2” finishing nails per piece to secure. Horizontal Gable Trim to cover flashing 66. Attach Horizontal Gable Trim ( 4- 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 44 1/2”) to both front and rear of shed. Position equally over gable and wall seam. Use 4 - 1 1/2” finishing nails per piece to secure.
68. Attach Facia/Trim Detail Plates to cover seam where facia and horizontal trim pieces come together. Secure each with 4 - 1 1/2” finishing nails thin end 9” from end Undercourse Ridge Cap Important: Butt (thick) end of Ridge Cap will be facing towards the outside of shed. thick end 69. Place First Roof Ridge Cap (Lower Grade Undercourse Ridge Cap) on roof peak overhanging shingles by approximately 1”. Attach with 2- 1 1/2” Shingle Nails 9” from end. Place 2nd Ridge Cap 1” back from 1st cap.
Note: illustration of Hinge may not be accurate. The # of screw holes in the hinge may vary from three to four depending on model. Attach Black Tee Hinges with 3/4” & 2” Black hardware provided 2“ Screws 3/4” screws 71. Attach Door Hinges to both Left and Right Side Double Doors. Position Hinges equally on door trim as shown above and attach with Black 3/4” and 2” screws. 3/8” gap on side, 1/2” gap at bottom. 2” Black Screws Bottom of Door 72. Next, position and secure the Double Doors.
73. Position Left Side Door as per Step 72 and secure with 2” Black Screws. When satisfied with door positioning, complete all 2” screws. Note: Do not over tighten hinge screws when using screw gun. Tighten 3/4 of the way and use a Screw Driver to finish so as not to strip screws. 74. Attach Horizontal and Vertical Door Stops to door header and jambs. Start with horizontal Stop first and then complete both vertical stops. Position so door gap is covered. Use 4 - 2” screws per piece to secure. 75.
Inside Edge of Door Frame 76. Position and attach Vertical Door Flange on inside door frame (left door from outside) using 6 - 2” screws. Position on inside edge of door frame. Drill 1/2” Diameter Hole to accommodate rod of Cane Bolt. 77. The Interior Cane Bolt will be attached to Vertical Door Flange. To position Cane Bolt correctly, attach to flange first, close doors and mark hole to house Cane Bolt Rod. Open doors and drill hole where previously marked with 1/2” bit.
Note: Our Sheds are shipped as an unfinished products. If exposed to the elements, the western red cedar lumber will weather to a silvery-gray color. If you prefer to keep the cedar lumber looking closer to the original color, we suggest that you treat the wood with a good oil base wood stain. You may also wish to paint your new shed rather than stain it. In both cases we recommend that you consult with a paint and stain dealer in your area for their recommendations.
