HELMETS SAVE LIVES !!! ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE. DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT. AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS. CORRECT FITTING - MAKE SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS YOUR FOREHEAD. INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE TO SERIOUS INJURY.
Please Retain your Sales Receipt as Proof of Purchase.
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle.
? Parts Identification ...................................................... 02-05 PART 2 Before You Ride ........................................................... 06-21 PART 3 Assembly ..................................................................... 22-62 PART 4 Servicing ...................................................................... 63-65 PART 5 Detailed Maintenance.................................................. 66-97 PART 6 How Things Work ...................................
1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION Mountain Bicycles BMX Bicycles Tools Required 01 2-5 2 3 4 2.
Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style bicycles are generally much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.
BMX Bicycles . BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual.
ABOUT THIS MANUAL It is important for you to understand your new bicycle. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle. It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other cyclists. GENERAL WARNING Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances.
CORRECT FRAME SIZE When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the frame seat tube. The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops.
RIDING POSITION Saddle Height In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that pedal.
Handlebar Height Stem Wedge Bolt Handlebar Binder Bolt Exceeds 2 1/2” (64mm) Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights to find the most comfortable position. Maximum Height/ Minimum Insertion Mark Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable. Please refer to page 23 for instructions on installation. The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.
SAFETY CHECKLIST Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks: 1. Brakes - Ensure Ensure Ensure Ensure front and rear brakes work properly. brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims. brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear. brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar. 2.
4. Chain - Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly. - Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions. 5. Bearings - Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling. - Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings. 6. Cranks and Pedals - Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks. - Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent. 7.
Helmets It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved, bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they must also be wearing a helmet. The correct helmet should: - be comfortable - be lightweight - have good ventilation - fit correctly - cover forehead Always wear a properly fitted helmet which covers the forehead when riding a bicycle. Many states require specific safety devices.
Reflectors Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and four pedal (orange) reflectors. (Please Note: Sidewalk bikes, 12” and under, may not have reflectors.) These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condition at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found.
Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket. Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram.
RIDING SAFELY General Rules When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs. For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority in your State. Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic. Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping. Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see. Concentrate on the path ahead.
Wet Weather IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER - In wet weather you need to take extra care. - Brake earlier, you will take a longer distance to stop. - Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and take corners with additional caution. - Be more visible on the road. - Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights. - Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more hazardous when wet.
Hill Technique - Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed. - If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from each pedal revolution. - On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling. - Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care. Cornering Technique Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner.
Drivetrain Freewheel Cogs Guide Pulley Rear Derailleur Front Derailleur Front Chainwheels Crank Arm Pedal Derailleur Control Cable GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE Derailleur Gears Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady pedaling pace under varying conditions.
4 6 5 1 3 2 3 High 4 6 5 2 1 Middle Low These combinations are NOT RECOMMENDED for optimal performance. 1 3 2 2 High 1 Low These combinations are NOT RECOMMENDED for optimal performance. Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations Front Low Gear Rear Low Gear Front High Gear Rear High Gear Hand Grip Shifters Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting mechanism called Grip Shift™, which is built into the handlebar grips and does not make use of separate levers.
Left hand lever Right hand lever Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted) Most mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs. To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur, and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger chainwheel.
BICYCLE CARE Basic Maintenance The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding. For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid. Store your bicycle under shelter.
Storage Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic parts to crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may cause rusting.
DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes Assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes. Getting Started Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to installation.
NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position, and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt. Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.
Sunken Stem Bolt System 1. Remove the protective shipping cap from the stem wedge. 2. Remove the Stem Plug from the stem. Loosen the Stem Bolt with a 6mm allen wrench. 3. Insert the stem into the headtube of the bicycle. Ensure that the Minimum Insertion Line is below the top nut of the headset. 4. Align the stem and handlebar so it is in line with the front wheel. 5. Tighten the Stem Bolt with the 6mm allen wrench. Reinsert the Stem Plug into the stem.
Shifter binder bolt (2.5 Allen key) 1. Brake lever binder bolt (5mm Allen key) Bar end (5mm Allen key) Shifters Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers and bar ends to the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver. (Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter. (Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter. Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may cause sudden movement of the component resulting in loss of steering control.
Forks Steering Tube Brake Boss Drop-out Crown Blade 1. Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension fork yourself. Consult a professional bicycle repair technician. Brake Bridge Crown Brake Boss Drop-out Steering Tube Fork Blade 2. There are two different types of forks that vary in styles and dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of stationary tubing with curved blades.
Seat and Seat Post Seat Clamp Seat Post Adjusting Nut Quick Release Attach Seat Here Boot Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp. Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to the proper height.
Pedals & Crank Set Dust Cap Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread.
Front Wheel Quick Release Adjusting Axle Nut Hub Axle Quick Release Lever Hub Closed Position Spring Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick Release (QR) mechanism.
5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the bicycle frame/fork surfaces. 6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick release seat post binder mechanism. 7. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so that the link wire is at the position in the illustration. 5. Secure one of the shoes at a time. The adjustment of the shoe clearance is not necessary at this time. Shoe fixing nut tightening torque: 7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.) 3 Link Wire 10 mm wrench To u c h i n g 5 mm Allen key Cable Anchor Bolt Spring tension adjustment screw 1 mm 6. If balance adjustment is necessary, adjust with the spring tension adjustment screw. Cable Casing Holder 1 2 4.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable Straddle Cable Brake Brake Cable Straddle Hanger Pinch Bolt Straddle Cable 90o Cable Anchor Caliper Arm Pivot V-Style Brakes Outer Cable Lead Brake Cable Boot Brake Noodle Anchor Bolt Brake Arm Pivot Bolt The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger, and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close to the tire for maximum braking force.
V - Brake 1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the frame with the link fixing bolt. 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
3. While holding the shoe against the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. 5. Adjust the balance with the spring tension adjustment screws. shoe fixing nut 1mm 5 mm Allen key 1 mm Spring tension adjustment screw 4. Pass the inner cable through the inner cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance of 1mm between each brake pad and the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. 1 mm Spring tension adjustment screw 6.
Check your Brakes Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and “toed-in” so the rear portion of each brake pad is about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad. Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel.
Disc Brakes Brake Cable Housing Barrel Adjuster Lock Nut Brake Lever Cable Insertion Slot Brake Cable “C” Clip Cable End Holder Brake Type Selector Rotating Rod Caliper Mounting Bolt with spacers Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable end into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder. After the cable is secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and lock nut so the slots no longer line up.
Hub Fork Leg Centering Bolt Disc Mounting Bolts Brake Cable Housing Rotating Rod Caliper Body Disc Cable Boot with Spring inside Centering Bolt (inside) Actuating Arm Fork Drop Out Quick Release lever Caliper Mounting Bolts with spacers These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13 miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or any other serious braking.
Derailleur Freewheel Outer side of Top Gear Pulley Adjustment Screw Guide Pulley Adjustment Screws Tension Pulley SIS Cable Adjuster High Gear Adjustment Screw Low Gear Adjustment Screw H L Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before riding the bicycle.
Low Adjusting Screw Cable Anchor Bolt Outer Chainguide Inner Chainguard High Adjusting Screw Chainguide clearance of 1-3mm Front Derailleur Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 1-3mm when fully engaged.
Dual Suspension Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat. The piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle. The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by turning the adjusting plate.
3 1 Rear Pivots 2 1. 2. 3. 2 Attaching Bolt Bushing Shaft 3 1 1 The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows the rear triangle to move up and down in combination with a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds will vary between models; however, operating principles are the same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings secured in place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean and free from grime and should be disassembled and regreased at least once every riding season.
Accessories Saddle Bag Frame Bag Reflector Reflector Reflector Water bottle and cage If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided. Some bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag. The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag, thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat post.
figure 1 Fenders Front Fender The front fender is mounted at the fork crown. There are two ways in which to mount your front fender. The first is the caliper brake mounting system (see figure 1), and the second is the 10mm nut and bolt system (see figure 2). Identify the mounting system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular type of mounting system. 1. Caliper Brake Mounting System First remove the front wheel from your bicycle.
Rear Fender The rear fender is mounted at the seatstay brace. There are two ways in which to mount your rear fender. The first is the screw mounting system (see figure 3), and the second is the 10mm bolt and screw system (see figure 4). Identify the mounting system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular type of mounting system. figure 3 1. Screw Mounting System First remove the rear wheel.
Final Check - After all adjustments have been made, shift through every gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments. - Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire. - Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the kickstand bolt is secured tightly.
SINGLE SPEED & BMX Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes. Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it also offers an important measure of safety. Getting Started Stem Cap Binder Bolts Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages.
Seat Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the nut on the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark on the seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the ground.
Axle Nut Front Wheel Retaining Washer Axle Hub Cone Nuts Fork Drop Out Step Retaining Washer 1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to pass through the brake pads easily. 2. Place wheel into fork drop outs. 3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork, and insert into the small hole of the fork blade. NOTE: Some bikes may have step retaining washers in place of the retaining washer (shown in dotted box).
Side Pull Brakes Cable Adjusting Barrel Center Bolt Brake Arm Cable Anchor Nut Fixing Nut in Back Side Pull Brake Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it. Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tighten the nuts securely.
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so that the link wire is at the position in the illustration. 5. Secure one of the shoes at a time. The adjustment of the shoe clearance is not necessary at this time. Shoe fixing nut tightening torque: 7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.) 3 Link Wire 10 mm wrench To u c h i n g 5 mm Allen key Cable Anchor Bolt Spring tension adjustment screw 1 mm 6. If balance adjustment is necessary, adjust with the spring tension adjustment screw. Cable Casing Holder 1 2 4.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable Straddle Cable Brake Brake Cable Straddle Hanger Pinch Bolt Straddle Cable 90o Cable Anchor Pivot Caliper Arm Brake pad aligned with the rim surface The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger, and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close to the tire for maximum braking force.
V - Brake 1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the frame with the link fixing bolt. 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
3. While holding the shoe against the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. 5. Adjust the balance with the spring tension adjustment screws. 5 mm Allen key 1 mm 1 mm Spring tension adjustment screw 4. Pass the inner cable through the inner cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance of 1mm between each brake pad and the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. 1 mm Spring tension adjustment screw 6.
Front U-Brake Rear U-Brake Option 1 Rear U-Brake Option 2 U-Brakes Begin by adjusting the pads of the U-brakes using a 10mm wrench. Make sure the pad is hitting the rim and not the tire. Ideally the front of the pad should hit the rim approximately 1mm before the rear pad. Front U-Brake Slide the brake cable and housing through the Housing Barrel and through the cable anchor bolt. Set the cable clearance of 1mm between the brake pads and the rim. Tighten the cable anchor bolt.
Blake Lever™ Cable Installation 1. Slide the covering plate back towards the brake lever. (Figure 1). Squeeze the brake lever so the cable roller is exposed. 2. Rotate out the cable roller. Push the lower cable roller assembly down towards the hinge assembly. The top plate should not move. 3. With one index finger hold the top plate and with the other index finger separate the lower cable roller assembly with the top plate. 4. Insert the brake cable around the lower cable roller assembly. (Figure 2).
Rotors Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees without binding the cables. It is very important that this system is adjusted correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified bicycle mechanic with the correct tools. Upper Cable 1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable will have a twist in it. 2.
Failure to adjust correctly may result in loss of braking power and personal injury. Single Cable Casing Cable Adjuster Cable Splitter Upper Cable (long casing) Barrel End Upper Cable (short casing) Adjusting Barrel Upper Plate 37mm + or - 1mm Bearing Football Ends Lower Plate Lower Cable 57 Locknut Set for Max.
Non-Threaded Axle Peg Assembly Instructions Non-Threaded First remove the axle nut from the wheel. There will be either a retaining washer or a step retaining washer included. Place this washer between the peg and the frame of the bicycle. Slide the peg onto the axle, followed by a flat washer and lastly the axle nut. Tighten the axle nut clockwise until the peg fits snugly against the frame or fork. Repeat for all the remaining pegs. Threaded Threaded This style of peg is threaded to fit the axle.
Training Wheels There are two options when attaching the training wheels to the wheel brace. Determine which option is used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that option. Option 1 First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Position a washer on the shoulder bolt. Next, insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with another flat washer then completely thread a hex nut onto the shoulder bolt.
Attaching Training Wheel Brace to Bicycle There are two different braces used to attach the training wheels to the bicycle: the C-Shape Brace and the Flat Brace. Determine which brace was included with your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular brace. C-Shape C-Shape Brace Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align the washer so that the notch on the washer fits into the rear frame drop out.
Training Wheel Stabilizer Bracket Your bicycle may include a stabilizer bracket to attach the training wheel to the bicycle. First remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Align the stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align the brace and stabilizer bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle nut and washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows for raising and lowering the training wheel to the proper height. NOTICE: Not all bicycles will accept training wheels.
Final Check Pads Front Reflector (White) Rear Reflector (Red) Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike. NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated. Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and the red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a Phillips head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle using the hardware provided.
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure: PART 4 - SERVICING Smooth running - Longer lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks.
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist Frequency Before every ride After every ride Weekly Monthly Every Six Months Yearly Task Check tire pressure Check brake operation Check wheels for loose spokes Make sure nothing is loose Quick wipe down with damp cloth Lubrication as per schedule 1 Lubrication as per schedule 1 Check derailleur adjustment Check brake adjustment Check brake and gear cable adjustment Check tire wear and pressure Check wheels are true and spokes tight Check hub, head set and crank bearings
Tools Required 1. Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm 2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm 3. Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm 4. Adjustable wrench 5. Standard flat head screwdriver 6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver 7. Standard slip joint pliers 8. Tire pump 9 Tube repair kit 10. Tire levers Travel Tools 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
WHEELS AND TIRES Wheel Inspection It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems: •Wheels not straight: Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.
Tire Inspection Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas: Inflation: Bead Seating: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge and a hand pump than a service station pump. Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause tire to blow out. When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.
Ball Bearings Lock Washer Hub Body Bearing Cone Axle Lock Nut Washer Axle Nut Hub Bearing Adjustment When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require adjustment if there is any more than slight side play. 1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose. 2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same side with a flat open end wrench. 3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play. 4.
Remove tire bead from the rim. 6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible cause and mark the location on the tire. 7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the spoke ends, if damaged. 8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim. 9.
HANDLEBARS AND STEM Handlebar Stem Max. Height/ Minimum Insertion Mark Handlebar Binder Bolt Handlebar Clamp Bolts Stem Bolt Max. Height/ Min. Insertion Mark The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened, binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube. When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns, then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key. Grip Do not over tighten. Handlebar Stem Bolt Handlebar Stem Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
Grip 7/8” Plastic Washers Barrel Adjuster Cable GRIP SHIFTERS Grip Shift™ - Installation 1. Slide front Grip Shift™ assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip. If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift™ and handlebar grip. 2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement. 3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs. 4.
Cables and Cable Housing Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing need to be replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed to operate the brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also check that the housing is seated properly into each cable stop of the bicycle.
HEADSET Standard Headset Inspection The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment.
SADDLE AND SEAT POST Inspection The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”. Seat Fixing Bolt Micro Adjustable Seat Post Seat Post Binder Bolt To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame or possibly the rider, the minimum insertion mark must be inside the frame.
Adjustment As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the individual rider. Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front. The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most comfortable reach to the handlebars.
BRAKES The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use. Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly. There are two types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and cantilever calipers.
Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes, make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position. Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position. Lubrication Cable Adjusting Barrel The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with 2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth operation and to reduce wear.
Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set the clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake pads should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the pad makes first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special curved washers to allow this, but on less complex models it will be necessary to apply a little force to the pad and its mounting.
Tread Usable Brake Shoe Tread Worn Off Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace) On some newer type cantilever brakes, the main brake cable continues through the central cable carrier to an anchor bolt on one of the brake arms. A shorter link cable reaches from the carrier and the hook on the other brake arm. Adjustment of the cable length is made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm. Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim and so that the leading edge makes first contact.
DRIVETRAIN The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and freewheel. PEDALS Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as downward pressure, on the pedals.
Lubrication and Adjustment Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months.
CRANK SET The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the crank arms, and chainrings. Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks, where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little extra care.
Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten the locknut counter-clockwise. To disassemble: 1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel. 2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise. 3.
Bottom Bracket Lubrication and Adjustment - Cotterless Cranks To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not to alter the cup adjustment. Fixed Cup Cotterless Crank removing tool Ball Retainer Adjusting Cup Bottom Bracket Shell Lockring Axle Remove the dust cap. Loosen and remove the flange nut. 85 To disassemble: 1.
Screw in the removal tool. Turn the screw bolt clockwise. Position the crank on the axle. Lightly tap the crank onto the axle. 3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten. 4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from the axle. Cotterless Crank Replacement: 1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle. 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet. 3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a torque of 27Nm. 4. Replace the dust cover Adjustment After Use: 1.
Rear Sprocket Front Chainwheel CHAIN Inspection The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely. Pull up 10 mm Straightedge Lubrication The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.
Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length. To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out, then back out the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it slightly to release link from the rivet.
Lubrication Brake Arm Clip Brake Arm Sprocket Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the chain, taking care to wipe off any excess. COASTER HUB Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a coaster hub brake in the rear wheel.
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard 'friction' type system where you will need to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an ‘index’ system (e.g.
Outer side of Top Gear Freewheel Pulley Adjustment Screw Lubrication All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
Low Adjusting Screw Cable Fixing Bolt High Adjusting Screw Outer Chainguide Chainguide clearance of 1-3 mm Inner Chainguide Adjustment - Front Derailleur 1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain on the smallest chainwheel. 2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer chainwheel on the crankset.
QUICK RELEASE LEVERS It is important to check the quick release levers before every ride to ensure all connections are made properly and securely. Periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage and replace if necessary. When reinstalling, it is very important to ensure the connections are made properly. Please refer to page 29-30 for the appropriate assembly instructions.
MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES Your bicycle might be shipped with accessories that can be added onto you new bicycle. The following will detail how and where to attach your micilanious accessories. Basket Assembly Your bicycle may be supplied with an attachable front basket. You must make sure that the basket is attached properly. First insert the washer onto the 10mm hex head bolt. Then insert hex head bolt through the basket, and through the basket bracket assembly (on bike).
Problem Possible Cause Remedy Gear shifts not working properly - Derailleur cables sticking/stretched/damaged Front or rear derailleur not adjusted properly Indexed shifting not adjusted properly - Lubricate/tighten/replace cables - Adjust derailleurs - Adjust indexing Excessively worn/chipped chainring or freewheel sprocket teeth Chain worn/stretched Stiff link in chain Non compatible chain/chainring/ freewheel - Replace chainring, sprockets and chain Replace chain Lubricate or replace link S
Problem Possible Cause Remedy Freewheel does not rotate - Freewheel internal pawl pins are jammed - Lubricate.
Problem Possible Cause Remedy Steering not accurate - Wheels not aligned in frame Headset loose or binding Front forks or frame bent - Align wheels correctly Adjust/tighten headset Take bike to a bike shop for possible frame realignment Frequent punctures - Inner tube old or faulty Tire tread/casing worn Tire unsuited to rim Tire not checked after previous puncture Tire pressure too low Spoke protruding into rim - Replace Inner tube Replace tire Replace with correct tire Remove sharp object embe
6. How Things Work It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read and to understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to a qualified specialist.
? 2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices Many bicycles have front forks which utilizes a secondary wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories: a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. (5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position.
? (7) Push the rear derailleur back into position. (8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes. 4. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel (1) Open up the brake shoes. (2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. (3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4).
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel (1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. (2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle nut. (3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.
? C. Brakes NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously. WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury or death. 1. How brakes work It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.
WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. ? When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going.
? The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute. 2.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward. ? 1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios.
? • one or two control cables • one front sprockets called chainrings • a drive chain a) Shifting internal gear hub gears Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift. b) Which gear should I be in? The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills.
F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are the means most racers use to keep their feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a springloaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used.
? Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve.
Purchase Record Card Fill in Immediately and retain as a record of your purchase. PART 7 - PURCHASE RECORD *Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.
LIMITED WARRANTY AND POLICY ON REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES AND RESPONSIBILITIES Your purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser. No warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.