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S E L E C TO M A T the optional extra for yo u r N EW H O M E Sw issknitter The SELECTOMAT makes pattern knitting much easier: all you have to do is arrange the first 12 needles and the SELECTOMAT does the rest for you by repeating the needle setting across the whole width of the needle bed.
Knitting Guide Contents: Unpacking and Assembly 2 Threading up 8 Stocking Stitch 11 The Sweater 16 The Back 16 The Sleeve 21 The Front 23 So far the chapters of the knitting guide correspond with the contents of the teaching cassette.
- Unpacking Start by removing the teaching cassette (9) from the styrofoam block and listening to it. The cassette explains how to unpack the machine and set it up, as well as how to knit your first test piece. Remove all the parts from the two styrofoam blocks and check that all the parts are there: The right styrofoam block contains: The Lock The left styrofoam block contains: 1. Mast for yam tensioner 2. Tension arms 3. Row counter 4. Tube of oil 5. Tw o edge weights 6. Tw o clamps 7. Paraffin wax 8.
Unpacking These are the small accessories: 2 ____________I) I I 09.232.12 3 Latch needles 09.802.03 Orange tool 09.942.03 € Yellow tool 09.941.02 Double ended bodkin HJL UL 09.809.02 Pattern ruler 8 O___ 0___ 0___ 0___ 01 16.570.02 Pattern ruler 1 :2 JDL 16.571.
Assembly 11 10 Lift the empty styrofoam blocks and the body of the machine out of the box. From the side insert the row counter into its support-rail exactly as shown in the illustration. Align the machine with the front table edge in such a way that the machine slightly slopes to the back. If this has been done correctly, the row counter will not touch the table when the machine is in its correct position. At each end fit the feeding eyelet supports underneath the needle bed.
Assembly Fit the mast for the yarn tensioner into the hole on the row counter. Fit the tension arms with the yarn tension dial to the top of the mast. The curved end of the mast is at the top and must point to the front. The tension arms are curved forward, Before you place the lock onto the needle bed, check that the front dial at the side of the lock is on position I.
, Assembly i 20 needle head c . 21 needle foot _ n rm fflJ i The Needle The Needle Positions The machine has 179 latch needles. Each needle has a needle foot and a needle head that closes with a movable latch. Holding the needle by its foot, it can be moved back and forth. On each end of the needle bed you will find one to four stars. These stars indicate the four needle positions: If the needle should jam in Non Working Position * while doing so, lift it up slightly by its foot.
Assembly Various parts of the machine ♦ 7
Threading the yarn For the following test pieces you will need approximately 230 grms of yarn in the main colour and about 30 grms in a second colour which will be called trimming colour. Use a medium thick plain smooth yarn. (100 grm = approx. 340 m, 1 oz = 104 yards). 26 It is very important for the yarn to flow freely and smoothly. It will only do so if it has been wound into loose balls or on to cones. Always begin with the end of yarn coming from the centre of the ball.
Threading the yarn Pick up one of the feeding eyelets supplied. Guide the double ended bodkin from the top through the feeding eyelet. Hold the end of the yarn tightly. Remove the yarn from the double ended bodkin and fix it in the yarn clamp at the right back of the needle bed. Insert the feeding eyelet into the feeding eyelet support just behind the yarn clamp.
Threading the yarn Compare your machine with the illustration. Does everything look exactly the same? Now thread the second colour of your yarn into the left side of the yarn tensioner. Look again at the illustrations 27 to 32. After threading fix the yarn in the yarn clamp on the left at the back of the needle bed.
Stocking Stitch Knitting in stocking stitch using different stitch sizes The first test piece will teach you how to knit stocking stitch (jersey), and the effect of the different stitch size settings. Always begin with the lock at the right-hand edge of the needle bed. Take the feeding eyelet out of the right-hand support at the back of the bed. Guide it to the front so that the yarn moves under the right side plate.
Stocking Stitch The basic cast on Push every alternate needle forward to Rest Position ****. Pick up the orange pattern ruler. Begin with needle 25 on the right of the centre, continuing to needle 24 on the left of the centre. The front dial is called the needle return dial. Turn it to Mil. The back dial of the two dials on the right-hand side of the lock is called the pattern selector. Turn it to A. t 12 The large dial at the centre of the lock is the stitch size. Turn it to 5.
Stocking Stitch Move the lock slowly and carefully to the left beyond needle 30 on the left of the centre. Using the pattern ruler push all needles still in Non Working Position * between needle 25 on the left and needle 24 on the right to Rest Position * * * *. Note: Make sure that the yarn, which at present is in every alternate needle head, lies underneath the needles you are pushing into Rest Position****. Move the lock from left to right.
Stocking Stitch Changing colour Take the feeding eyelet with yarn out of the lock by lifting it vertically out of the holder. Pull the yarn down between the lock and the knitting to free it from the stripper. Push the feeding eyelet from the front into the right feeding eyelet support on the lock. Take the feeding eyelet with the second colour out of its support at the left back and fit it into the holder on the lock.
Stocking Stitch Releasing the knitting from the machine Take the feeding eyelet with which you have been knitting out of the lock and fit it into the left support on the lock. Remove the edge weights from the knitting. Without a feeding eyelet, move the lock across the needles in Working Position**. This will release your knitting from the machine. The stitch size Look carefully at your first piece of knitting.
The Sweater The sweater 50 The sweater we are going to knit is intended for a child about six to seven years old. This will teach you the basic techniques you will need later on when knitting a garment of your own. The back Start with the back. t 16 Section A : The sweater has a double 2:1 rib welt, i. e. after you have knitted the required number of rows, you will fold the welt like a hem which will make a double welt.
The Sweater Cast on for 2:1 rib Pick up the black pattern ruler, i.e. the one where the teeth are closer together. Its teeth will fit behind every third needle. Push every third needle to Rest Position****. Begin with needle 49 at right of centre and continue to needle 48 at left of centre. Beginning with needle 49 left of centre push every third needle to Rest Position****. Knit one row.
The Sweater Turning up the mock rib The loops of the first row worked in main colour must now be placed on to the needles so that the rows knitted in trimming colour, here called contrast yarn, may be removed. Push the empty needles between those needles in Working Position* * also to Working Position. Look at the first row knitted in main colour: you will notice longer and shorter loops. Pick up the orange tool. The end with the eyelet is called the decker needle.
The Sweater Decreasing several stitches You now have to decrease 8 stitches at right and left for the armhole. Pick up the orange tool. i'2 Insert the eyelet of the orange tool into the needle head at right with a stitch on it and pull the needle towards you until the stitch lies behind the open latch. Now push the needle back again. This will only work if you ensure that the orange tool and the needle of the machine remain in a straight line.
The Sweater Knit 1 row. Now decrease the same number of stitches, i.e. eight stitches, in the same way on the left side. Knit 65 rows straight. You can now cast off your work. To do this, you proceed in exactly the same manner as for the decreases, but until no stitches remain on the machine. Break off the yarn and pull the end through the last stitch. When you have finished always push the empty needle right back to NWP*.
The Sweater The sleeve The next piece is your sleeve, teaching you how to increase stitches. Using contrast yarn cast on for a 2:1 rib band, but only from needle 25 at right of centre to needle 25 at left of centre, that is over a width of 50 needles. Look again at the illustrations 53 to 55. Knit 10 rows. Lock B III. Stitch size 5. Hang edge weights after 6 rows. Change to the main colour and knit 30 rows for the band. Place the loops of the first row knitted in main colour on to the correct needles.
The Sweater KM U l •»**'<%%)>♦••*#i<1✓*/»/* .J'l/t/t *W'« f* **/.,*!> /•*/*,»«*»****.**.« 1*«AM *4* M A » / « A Two-coloured Tuck Stitch For a trimming at the top of the sleeve we are going to knit a two-coloured tuck stitch pattern. Change to the trimming colour and knit two rows. • I. ■«/»A/. ■'«A i'SiM,»/»/•.•.
The Sweater You can now cast off the sleeve in the same way you have cast off the back. The front Knit the welt and section B to row 62 as given for the back (pages 16-19). Knit 24 rows in tuck stitch as given for the sleeve (ill. 71-75). Decrease 8 stitches at each end, then knit 38 rows in stocking stitch and main colour.
The Sweater Dividing work for neck opening From a yarn ball in main yarn take a length of yarn measuring about 1 metre. Using this piece of yarn cast off the centre eight stitches, beginning with needle 4 right of centre Push the 8 empty needles right back to Non Working Position *. Push all the needles on the left of the cast off section to Rest Position****. These stitches will thus remain on the needles of the machine but will not be knitted off. Set row counter at 000 (zero).
The Sweater Before you work the neckband, you may wish to press the knitted pieces, in which case they have to be pinned out to size (i.e. blocked) according to the measurements given in the block diagram. Use a steam iron or place a damp cloth over the knitting and leave to dry. Note: Do not apply any pressure if you use a steam iron. With right sides facing join one shoulder seam using backstitch. You can now unravel all the contrast yarn (trimming colour) you have used for casting on.
The Sweater Making up Press the neckband. Sew the second shoulder seam first, and join the neckband ends. Fold the neckband in half to the inside and sew in position, unravelling contrast yarn and always stitching through the open loops. With right sides facing and using backstitch set in the sleeves. Then, in one step, sew the side and sleeve seams with mattress stitch.
Casting on Shaping techniques In the following section we are setting out once again all you need to know about shaping as well as the working principles you have already learnt while knitting the sweater. Basic cast on (See also page 12) Stitch size as for stocking stitch. (For medium yarn approx. 5.) 88 w 1. Push every alternate needle to Rest P osition****. Knit one row Lock A Mil. . 2. Push all needles that are inbetween to Rest P osition****.
Casting on Casting on by winding yarn round needle Push all the required needles to Rest Position**** Starting from the left wind the yarn anti-clockwise round the needles. Stitch size as for stocking stitch. Knit one row Lock B INI. Casting on with latch tool Push the required number of needles to Rest Position****. Form a chain stitch (loop) and move it on to the shaft of the yellow tool.
Decreasing Decreasing 1 stitch To decrease one stitch proceed as follows: m l Insert the eyelet of the orange tool into the needle head that holds the stitch to be decreased. Push the needle back until the stitch slips over the closed latch on to the shaft of the orange tool. Unhook the orange tool and insert it into the needle head of the adjacent needle. Tilt the orange tool back until the stitch slips into the new needle head. Pull the needle forward until the stitch lies behind the open latch.
Decreasing/Increasing Decreasing 1 stitch using triple decker tool 99 - Using the triple decker tool move the three end stitches one needle in (i.e. the third stitch is now double). - Push empty needle to Non Working Position*. Continue to knit. This procedure is possible on the side where the lock is as well as on the opposite side. Increasing 1 stitch at the edge of the knitting Push one empty needle to Working Position* * on the lock side. Continue to knit.
Increasing Increasing 1 stitch using triple decker tool 104 - Push one empty needle to Working Position** at the edge. - Using the triple decker tool move the three end stitches one needle out. - Place purl stitch loop from row below on to empty 4th needle. Continue to knit. Increasing several stitches 107 106 mMmw. *•* Push the required number of stitches to Rest Position* * * * on the lock side. Wind yarn coming from the piece of knitting round needles.
Rest Position The needles in Rest Position* * * * When the needles are in Rest Position* * * * the stitches remain on them without being knitted off. Automatic needle return If on a row you want all needles so far in Rest Position * * * * to be working again, you can knit them off again automatically by using the return dial Mil. Knitting the neckline (See also page 24) Push the left half of the needles to Rest P osition****. Finish knitting the right half.
Rest Position Decreasing and increasing with short rows (Suitable for heels and hats) Decrease one stitch every alternate row nine times in all. Increase one stitch every alternate row nine times in all. I.e. when the lock is at right, push one needle to Rest Position**** at left. When the lock is at left, push one needle to Rest Position**** at right. For the increases, push the needles in the same way to Advanced Working Position***.
Buttonhole Horizontal buttonhole 113 Depending on the required size of the buttonhole, knit off several stitches (e.g. five) using a length of contrast yarn: - Push needles forward until the stitches have slipped behind the open latch. - Lay a length of contrast yarn (approx. 10 cm long) by hand into the needle heads, then one by one pull the needles back again until the stitch has slipped over the closed latch and a new stitch has been formed.
Test square To knit your own designs, it is absolutely vital that you make a test square first, for only thus can you work out the number of stitches and rows you will have to knit. A test square is always knitted in the yarn, the pattern, the stitch size, and the yarn tension you will be using for your garment. How to choose the stitch size is explained on pages 11-15. Knit 100 rows with 100 stitches, for only a test square of this size will ensure the accuracy of your calculations.
Tuck Stitch Patterning Tuck Stitch Patterns Tuck stitch patterns are knitted on lock setting B III. Push the needles on which the loops should be formed to Rest Position * * * *. When the loops have to be knitted off, push the needles back to Advanced Working Position * * * or knit one row with the return dial at Mil. The number of loops that can be worked depends on the distance between the needles with loops.
Tuck Stitch Chart as for 119 8 R dark col. 8 R light col. Chart as for 121 4 R dark col. 4 R light col.
Tuck Stitch Tuck stitch patterns with needles in Non Working Position* For these patterns, single needles are pushed to Non Working Position*, i.e. out of work. In the chart they are indicated by a vertical broken line. If you have previously been knitting in stocking stitch, place the respective stitches on to the adjacent needle.
Slip Stitch Slip stitch patterns Slip stitch patterns are formed by ‘floats’. They are knitted on Lock setting A llll. Push the needles used for knitting normal stitches to Rest Position****. Knit one row Lock A llll. Re-arrange needles. Chart for slip stitch 1 empty square = 1 needle in Working Position * * 1 cross = 1 needle in Rest Position**** 1 row of squares = knit 1 row Always begin with the bottom row of squares.
Fairisle Fairisle patterns Fairisle is knitted on Lock setting A INI. You always knit two rows main colour and two rows trimming colour. Proceed as follows: Push all needles that have no cross on the first row of squares to Rest Position****. Knit one row Lock A Nil in main colour. Push all needles that have no cross on the second row of squares to Rest Position****. Knit one row Lock A INI in main colour. Change colour. Push all needles that have a cross on the first row to Rest Position****.
Fairisle in Tuck Stitch Fairisle in Tuck Stitch These patterns are knitted on Lock setting B III. Contrary to normal Fairisle the needles only have to be re-arranged every alternate row. Procedure Push all needles that have a cross on the first and second row of squares to Rest Position Knit 2 rows Lock B III in main colour. Push all needles that were in Rest P osition**** to Advanced Working Position***. Push all needles with no cross on the first and second row of squares to Rest Position****.
Intarsia Intarsia knitting Intarsia is knitted on Lock setting D II The needles are in Advanced Working Position***, the yarn is laid across the needles by hand. The feeding eyelet is not in the lock. Our example (You have cast on at least 24 stitches and knitted a few rows stocking stitch in main colour. Prepare one ball of yarn of each trimming colour as well as three balls in main yarn.) - Push all needles to Advanced Working Position***, i.e. knit one or two rows Lock C III.
Intarsia - Place the prepared balls of yarn on the floor. - Fasten the yarn ends coming from the centre of these balls in the yarn clip at right. - Starting from the right, lay main yarn across all needles as far as needle 4 at right of centre. - Now lay first trimming colour across the 6 centre needles. - Lay main yarn across all remaining needles at left. Note: make sure that all latches are open and that there is yarn in every needle head.
Double Rows Knitting double rows Double rows: this means knitting two rows in one passage of the lock (moving the lock only once across the needles) on Lock setting CII. Procedure: r W V W W W t A/Wv - Push all needles to Advanced Working Position***, i.e. knit one to two rows Lock C III. Set needle return at II. - Place second yarn into needles. Ensure that every latch is open and that there is yarn in every needle head.
’ Double Intarsia Double Intarsia Double intarsia is knitted on Lock setting B II. The needles are in Working Position**, and the needles intended for knitting the second yarn are pushed to Advanced Working Position***, and the yarn laid by hand. Our example (You have cast on at least 26 stitches and knitted a few rows stocking stitch.) - Push the centre 7 needles to Advanced Working Position***. - Place a second yarn into these needles.
Lock settings The following chart shows you what basically happens on the different lock settings. Do not use lock settings that are not mentioned.
Useful Hints Released stitches Released or dropped stitches may be caused by a stitch size that is too big or damaged latch needles. If caused by damaged latch needles the appropriate needles have to be replaced. Replacing a needle - Pull out the needle rail situated below the upper rail at right until the defective needle is cleared. - If either the needle head or the latch are damaged, the needle head must first be broken off with a pair of flat pliers.
Useful Hints Cleaning Never clean the machine while there is a piece of knitting in it. Cleaning: Every time a garment is finished or daily if the machine is in constant use, proceed as follows: 1. With a soft dry cloth wipe off all surplus oil, or oil that has become black, from the lock and needle bed. 2.With a dry brush remove remaining yarn fluff from the needle bed and the interior of the lock. Special note: Never use petrol/gasoline on the plastic parts of your machine. Use soapy water instead.
Useful Hints Cleaning Never clean the machine while there is a piece of knitting in it. Cleaning: Every time a garment is finished or daily if the machine is in constant use, proceed as follows: 1. With a soft dry cloth wipe off all surplus oil, or oil that has become black, from the lock and needle bed. 2. With a dry brush remove remaining yarn fluff from the needle bed and the interior of the lock. Special note: Never use petrol/gasoline on the plastic parts of your machine. Use soapy water instead.
