CONTENTS 2 CHAPTER I: Welcome to Your ROBO 3D Experience! 3 CHAPTER II: Installing Software 4 CHAPTER III: Connecting Your R1 3D Printer 8 CHAPTER IV: Software Navigation 21 CHAPTER V: Slice 34 CHAPTER VI: Your First 3D Print- Workflow 40 CHAPTER VII: 3D Printing Resources 41 CHAPTER VIII: Troubleshooting 1
CH I Welcome to your ROBO 3D experience! We at ROBO 3D really love 3D printing and our aim is to help spread this amazing technology around the globe. If you are reading this guide you probably have one of our units and we can’t tell you how appreciative we are for your help in making our dream come true. We have created this guide to help you learn how to use your new ROBO 3D printer. Whether you are a seasoned 3D modeler or are brand new to this technology, this guide will help you along the way.
CH II Installing Software So you’ve got your ROBO 3D unit put together- now what? Well the next step is to get the software you need to work with your computer. We have included a copy of our software in the box that your printer shipped in and it is also available on our website, www.robo3d.com under the “Support” tab. This software is easily supported by Windows and Mac operating systems.
CH III Connecting your R1 3D Printer Physically connect your printer • • • Locate a solid flat surface to place your printer- somewhere close to your computer You also need to be close to a power outlet Plug the USB cable that comes with your kit into the right side of the printer and connect the other end to an available port on your computer.
Connecting to the ROBO 3D Software • Click the MatterControl icon that saved on your desktop. • • Make sure you are connected via USB and your printer is powered on. After the software opens, click the “Add Printer” button at the top of the screen. (3.3) (3.3) • • • • A new window will pop up and you will be able to set up a 3D printer. From here you can assign your ROBO 3D a nickname. This helps you keep track of multiple units. (3.4a) Next find the “Select Make” drop down list and choose ROBO 3D.
(3.4a) • • (3.4b) (3.4c) Now a new set of windows will open and prompt to “Install Communication Driver”. Do this by clicking “Install Driver” in the bottom left corner of this screen. (3.5a) Once the driver is finished installing a “3D Printer Setup” window will appear. Follow the instructions on this screen to disconnect the printer and press “Continue”. (3.5b) (3.5a) (3.
• • Reconnect your ROBO 3D after this and press “Connect”. (3.6a) Once the printer connects, you will see a “Connection Succeeded!” message. From here click “Done”. (3.6b) (3.6a) • (3.
CH IV Software Configuration for Printing ROBO 3D has teamed up with MatterHackers to provide a top of the line 3D printing software that is very user friendly. In this chapter we will be diving into this software and explaining everything you need to know in order to get the best possible prints out of your R1 3D printer. There are 3 main components to MatterControl: the Home Screen (4.1a), Build Plate (4.1b) and the Configuration Panel (4.1c). (4.1a) (4.1b) (4.1c) Navigating the home screen.
• • If you have loaded multiple files into the queue, then you will see them listed out in the middle of the screen When you click on a file listed in your queue, it will become highlighted and a preview picture will show in the top portion of your screen. This means that this file is lined up to be printed next. (4.2a) (4.2a) • On the bottom right hand corner of your screen you will see a “Queue Options” button. (4.
2. Library • • • Your library is where you can store different files that you frequently print. We include a preloaded library with over twenty ROBO 3D Optimized* prints to help you get started. To add an object to your print queue, simply hover over the item and click “Add to Queue” (4.3a) You can also import other files into your library by using the “Import” button (4.3a) (4.3a) 3. History • • Within the History tab, you will be able to see information on all of your previous 3D print jobs. (4.
(4.4) 4. About • • The About tab is very important. This is where you will be able to access and download software updates for your machine as they come available. Click the “Check for Update” button to see if there is an update available. (4.5) (4.5) 5. Print Status • The color bar at the top of your home screen is where you can actively monitor your print status and temperatures for the hot end and heated bed while printing. (4.
(4.6) The Build Plate This is where you can view the part files that you load and their configuration on the build plate. Here you can edit the orientation of your part, scale it and even print multiple pieces together. 1. Access to the Build Plate. • The easiest way to access your build plate is to simply click on the picture of the part queued to print like shown below. (4.7a/b) (4.7a) • (4.7b) Aother quick way to see the build plate is to expand your home screen to full screen view. (4.
(4.7c) 2. View Options • Use the 3 buttons in the top left hand corner to edit the viewing agle, rotation and zoom of the build plate. • Select to rotate the view angle of the build plate. Do this by clicking the rotate button and then left click on the part and hold. Now move your mouse around and you will be able to rotate your view. • Select and left click to move the build plate around the screen. • Select and left click to zoom in and out. 3.
(4.8a) • Make sure to click the save button once you are done editing your part. (4.8b) (4.8b) 4.
• If you would like to add a completely separate part to your build plate, Click the button on the lower left hand side of your screen and select another file that you want to add to your platform. (4.9a) (4.9a) • Once the new part has been added, all other parts will turn white- meaning that your new part is inserted and is currently selected. Now you can edit this part with the controls for rotation, scaling and mirroring individually. Be sure to save the build plate again if you are finished editing.
(4.9b) • • You can use the button to move the newly added copies of your part around on the build surface. Again, be sure to save all changes before exiting the build plate screen. The Advanced Settings Panel The configuration panel is where you are able to define all of the intimate details about how your part file will be printed, adjust settings during printing and also customize your version of this software.
Controls The “CONTROLS” tab is where you can physically control your printer through the software. Here you can pre heat your extruder and heated bed, and even adjust your print speed while printing. 1. Adjusting Temperatures • To adjust your temperature for either the extruder or heated bed, simple type your desired temps in the “target” field (4.10a). You can also use the button to heat up these things while you set your slice settings. (4.
• To set up your preheat buttons click the button next to either “Extruder Temperature Override” or “Bed Temperature Override”. You will see a screen like this appear (4.10b): (4.10b) • Now enter in the desired preheat temp settings. *An Extruder Preheat should not be set to be higher than 240 for ABS filament or 210 for PLA filament. *A Bed Preheat should not be set to higher than 90 for ABS and 55 for PLA filament.
2. Movement Controls • • • • You can use the movement controls on this panel (while your printer is idle) to move the X, Y and Z axis. The extrude/ retract motor movement keys help in loading filament as well. You can unlock the motors after a print job in order to move them around by hand. If you need to home any or all of your axis you can do it here. (4.20a) (4.20a) 3.
Slice Settings Slice settings (4.21) are where you will adjust the parameters of the print job itself. These tools are the very most important to understand in order to get a quality print out of your 3D printer and that is why we have dedicated the entire next chapter to setting up your slice settings. Please see CH V- Configuring Slice Settings for this. (4.21) Configuration This panel is reserved for customizing your version of this software.
CHV Configuring Slice Settings Slice settings is the most important panel in this software. These settings are where you will be able to define all aspects of how your part will print. SLICE ENGINES MatterControl comes with 3 different slice engines included: Slic3r, Cura, and MatterSlice. You can choose which engine you prefer by selecting it from the drop down list underlined in green. (5.1a) (5.
Each of these engines is similar in function and for the most part have the same setting options. We encourage you to use all 3 and make sure you pick one that best suits your needs. You will notice that each one will produce slightly different results for any given 3D printed object. For our introduction, we will be focusing on Matter Slice- as it is a good mix of the other two.
the button. This will add a short description underneath every setting that is available. We will leave this unchecked for now. *We have icluded a preset controls option in our version of Mattercontrol. With this you can create custom presets for any of the settings we are about to cover. Your software comes preloaded with high, medium and low quality settings as well as PLA and ABS material settings. We will cover how to configure custom settings for these later on.
Layers/ Perimeters Layer Height: Sets the height of each layer of the print. A smaller number will create more layers and more vertical accuracy but also a slower print. Range = .05mm-.3mm First layer height: Sets the height of the first layer. It is often desirable to print a taller first layer to ensure a good solid adhesion to the build plate. Max .04mm Bottom Clip: Use this if your part has an uneven bottom surface, this will cut the entered amount off of the bottom of the print.
Use the settings within this box to define the speed at which your printer will print each of the listed print moves. Default=60mm/s with outside perimeters at 50mm/s. Speed for Non-Print Moves: Speed to move when not extruding material. This can typically be much faster than normal. Range =90-150mm/s Skirt and Brim The skirt is a trace around the first layer of your print.
X and Y Distance: The distance the support material will be from the side walls of the object. Z Gap: The number of layers to skip in z. The gap between the support and the model. Similar to interface layers. Support Everywhere: If this is checked support will be allowed starting on top of internal surfaces. If it is not checked support will only be built on the surface of the print bed. Create Raft: Turns on or off the creation of a raft, which can often help parts adhere to the bed.
If greater than 0, this is the distance away from parts to create a perimeter layer that in affect, wipes when starting the layer. Default= 0mm. Multiple Extruders Support Material Extruders: The index of the extruder to use for support material. R1 3D printers only have one extruder; this should always be set to 1. Advanced First Layer Extrusion Width: Setting this to greater than 100% lays down more material and can often help the first layer have better adhesion to the print bed. Recommended 1-1.
Min Fan Speed: This is the minimum fan speed that your fan can run at. Max Fan Speed: This is the maximum fan speed that your fan can run at. Set this to 100%. Bridging Fan Speed: Fan speed to use during bridging. Default= 100%. Disable Fan For The First: The number of layers for which the fan will be forced to remain off. This helps with bed adhesion. Only do this for the first couple of layers.
Specify if your printer has a fan. Has Heated Bed: Specify if your printer has a heated bed. Has SD Card Reader: Specify if your printer has the ability to plug in an SD card. Z Can Be Negative: Lets the bed leveling code know if the printer can support the z axis going below 0. A printer with min z end stops or software end stops may not be able to. Default=unchecked. G Code Output: Some firmwares use different g and m codes. Setting this ensures that the output gcode will use the correct commands.
The amount the extruder head will be lifted after each retraction in millimeters. Use 0 if you wish to keep your extruder from lifting. This is typically use in conjunction with retraction to help minimize ooze and stringing. Speed: The speed that the filament will be retracted (and re-extruded. Use 30mm/s. Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: The minimum distance of a non printing move that will result in a retraction.
(5.3a) • (5.3b) You can do the same for the Material preset. Select a filament type from the drop down list and see that it affects your Filament and Printer settings. (5.3c) (5.
• To create your own presets, click the small button next to which ever preset you would like to customize. This will open the editor. From here you can edit existing presets or make completely new ones by using the button. (5.3d) (5.3d) • • Now you can edit the name of your preset before starting. To add a feature to your Preset, pull down the first list and select a category. (5.3e) (5.3e) • Do the same for group, and setting.
(5.3f) • After you save your preset, you will be able to access it from the Slice Settings page. (5.3g) (5.
CHVI Your First 3D Print (Workflow) Obtain 3D Printable File There are a few different ways to obtain 3D printable files for use on your R1 personal 3D printer. Computer Aided Design Software If you are design savvy and own a CAD software such as AutoCAD, SolidWorks, or Google Sketchup, you can design your own parts! Once you are finished designing, just make sure to export them as .STL or .OBJ files and save them where you can access them when it is time to print.
Pre Heat Now is a great time to preheat your extruder and heated bed because they take a couple of minutes to get up to temp. Do this in your Controls panel by clicking on the preheat buttons you set up on page 19. Click the button that corresponds to the type of plastic you will be printing with. (6.2) (6.2) Set Slice Settings After preheating your extruder and heated bed, now make sure that you have your Slice Engine settings exactly the way that you want them.
(6.4) Check Build Plate • One last thing to double check before your start your pint is your build plate. Make sure that your part is oriented the way you like. To check this, click the preview window at the top of your screen. (6.5) (6.5) • If you made any changes to the orientation of your part, make sure to save them before starting your print. Load Filament • Make sure that your spool holder is mounted correctly on your printer as seen below.
(6.6) • • • Straighten out the end of the filament so that it can easily be inserted into the extruder. Pull back the thumb latch on the back of your extruder, this will create an opening for you to load your filament into. Insert the filament into the extruder all the way down. (It should go in about 2 inches) (6.7) • • Release latch.
(6.8) Prep Build Plate • You can use a couple of different techniques for prepping your build plate. The three that we most commonly use here at ROBO 3D are: -Vinyl Sheeting (We’ve included one in the box for you) -Glue Stick -Hairspray (AquaNet works very well- this is our favorite) (6.9) • Move the heated bed all the way out to the furthest forward it can go and raise the x axis out of the way (using the motor controls in your Control Panel).
(6.10) • Apply which ever product you have available and make sure that there are no bumps on the build plate. Run • Now just click the start button! You will notice that your part slices in the software right before the print starts and the printer runs and auto leveling measurement sequence.
CHVII 3D printing Resources Makable.com Makable.com is a great resource for sharing 3d printer compatible files! Not only is it a database of free, ROBO certified files, it is also a market place where you can contact designers for custom jobs and also list your 3D design services and to market to potential customers! ROBO 3D Tech Support Check out www.robo3d.com for any tech support needs you may have. We have a large variety of support options listed under the “Support” tab.
CHVIII Troubleshooting/ General Info In this section we will go over a few things that are inherent in 3D printing. 3D printing in its nature takes a bit of patience and a lot of learning- especially if you have never done it before. The topics discussed below are things that should be taken into consideration when you are designing and printing parts. Heat • Correct extrusion and build plate temperatures are both crucial factors in getting a print that you will be happy with.
Warping • Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts. It is mainly seen in the bottom of the print- where it is supposed to be stuck to the build plate. • While an adhesion solution does help to prevent warping, heat is really the main contributing factor. R1 3D printers come standard with a heated build platform, so if your heat settings are correct for the type of material that you are printing with, you should never have to deal with this issue.
enough for the type of plastic you are using, the plastic will have problems passing through the hot end, which will clog it up. - Attempting to use PLA in an extruder that still has ABS in it. When you switch from a high temp plastic like ABS to something that extrudes at a lower temperature, it is very important to clear the nozzle of any remaining plastic to prevent clogging. Before your next print, manually heat the hot end to ABS temps and push a little bit of PLA through it.
homing, your print may not end up on the build plate where you intend it to- possibly causing a print to fail. Auto Leveling • Your new printer comes standard with an auto-leveling feature. The way our auto-leveling system works is to probe the heated bed in nine different location to measure any tolerances that it might have. This measurement is taken before every print so that each print you start is completely hands free (other than loading filament).
It is very important to make sure that the coupler nuts that these limit switches sit on are always seated in the cavity of the X brackets on both sides (They may come off durring transportation or rough handling) otherwise the auto leveling feature will not work. • Z Offset-Gaps in Bottom Surface If the offset on your printer is somehow not calibrated correctly, it may be too low or too high. Z offset measures the distance between “On” and “Off” in your Z endstops for auto leveling.
• In the photo below is an example of an offset that is too high and just right. (Too High- Just right) Extrusion-Filament Grinding Extrusion doesn’t just depend on heat. There are a few other factors that can keep your extruder from working: -Tangled Filament: If the filament on your spool for some reason becomes tangled or knotted up, it will eventually create tension and the extruder will not have enough power to pull it through.
Overhangs- Support Material An overhang is a specific part of a print that protrudes off of a vertical face If an overhang is too severe for the printer to handle (a part that hangs off of the print too far) and is not supported somehow, plastic will start to droop off of the part. To prevent this, make sure you check the box that says “Generate Support Material” in your Slice Settings. Support material can be broken away after the print job is finished.
Shifting Layers ad Irregular Circles Shifting layers and irregular circles are two print imperfections that usually stem from the same set of problems. They usually come from either a loose belt on the X or Y axis, or from a motor pulley that has come unsecured from the motor shaft. Shifting from back to front is most likely a Y axis belt/ pulley issue while left to right is an X axis issue.
