Technical Specifications

CUTTING & MILLING
11. How should I cut the trim and mouldings?
Royal Trim & Mouldings should be cut with a carbide tip blade with 80 teeth or more. It is
important to make the cuts quickly. We also have found that you can lightly spray the blade with
cooking spray or furniture polish as a lubricant to avoid excessive build up on the blade. NOTE: Do
not spray the mouldings as this will affect paint adhesion.
12. What type of routing or milling bits should I use?
Use standard woodworking carbide-tipped router bits. Secure the trim to a bench or table when
routing to minimize “chatter”. Once the routing is complete, the cut can be smoothed using
220-320 grit sandpaper. This will help seal the cut edge and make it more resistant to dirt. After
routing, to seal the exposed cells you can:
a. Sand the exposed cells with a 320 grit sandpaper
b. Paint the exposed area with a high quality 100% acrylic latex paint
13. What do you recommend for ripping boards or sheet stock?
Safety First – Please follow manufacturer’s instructions on safe operation of saws and other milling
or routing tools. Use a good, sharp carbide tipped saw blade. Make sure the product is secure while
ripping. After ripping or milling to seal the exposed cells you can:
a. Sand the exposed cells with 320 grit sandpaper.
b. Paint the exposed area with a high quality 100% acrylic latex trim paint
FASTENING & JOINING
14. How do I manage expansion and contraction of PVC trim mouldings?
a. PVC expands and contracts many times greater than wood
b. The main consideration is to plan for lengthwise expansion and contraction in boards longer
than 12 feet. If not accounted for, PVC trim can buckle or develop unsightly gaps. The key
element is to choose the right joints to fasten in place while allowing other joints to move.
The movement can be concealed with a shiplap joint or by leaving space for the board to
expand behind a butt joint or a feature board.
c. If there will be an outside miter or a fastened joint at both ends of a trim run that is 12 feet or
longer, use two boards connected with a shiplap joint to allow the boards to move without
exposing the material underneath the joint.
d. For outside corners, cement and mechanically fasten mitered outside corners together to
keep them from opening up as the boards move.
e. For inside corners you can use butt joints to hide movement, but you must leave a gap at th
end of the longer piece.
f. To use scarf joints, you must allow for movement in the run. PVC trimboards can be
cemented together at the joint and the boards will move as one. Allow for movement with a
shiplap.
g. On longer runs, to account for movement, the more the trim is fastened and bonded, the less
it will move. Also, you must double fasten on both sides of “pinned” joints.
h. In temperatures above 80°F, the board joints should be tight.
i. In temperatures of 40°F to 60°F, leave 1/8 inch of space.
j. And when it’s less than 40°F degrees outside, provide for 3/16 inch between boards.
15. Do you have to predrill before nailing?
If nailing product at 40°F or below, predrilling is required.
FAQs
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