OWNER'S MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 1340 / 1345 / 1350 / 1355 / 1358 1561/1595 69548
. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Machine identification .............................................. Parts list ................................................................ Setting up your machine ................. : ........................... Spool pins, Foot control, Light/power switch Installing extension table ............................................. Winding bobbin ........................................................ Removing bobbin case from shuttle ...............................
==1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE MACHINE IIII IIIIII IIIII IDENTIFICATION O ®.
I IIIIIIIII IIIII II I IIIII IIII III ® Model 1595 .@ 1. Top cover 2. Bobbin winder tension disc 3. 4, 5. 6. Thread guide Pressure regulator Take-up lever Face cover 7, Face cover thread guide 8, Top thread tension control 9. Guide pin 10, Extension table 11. Support leg 12, Guide pin 13. Spool pins 14. Bobbin winder 15. Stitch selector 16. Reverse stitch lever 17. Stitch length dial 18. 19. 20. 21. Light/power switch Thread cutter Presser foot thumb screw Presser foot _. 23.
I IIIIIII PARTS LIST PARTS 1 AND ACCESSORIES 2 PROVIDED WITH 4 8 6 15 20 12 11 10 19 MACHINE 16 21 23 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 24 30 4 25 26 31 27 32 28 29 33 34 13
PARTS LIST (Useonly genuine Kenmore replacement parts and accessories,) All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ALWAYS MATION: ORDERING GIVE THE REPAIR FOLLOWING PARTS, INFOR- 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION _lef. NO, Part No. Description 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
• I IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII J SETTING 1. Install your Kenmore sewing machine in a Kenmore cabinet, case or set the machine on a sturdy flat surface. 2. Your Kenmore sewing, machine has been throughly oiled at the factory. Be sure to wipe off the needle plate area, bed plate and bobbin case carefully before sewing a garment, It is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil is absorbed, SPOOL PINS You'll find spool pins and nylon discs packed in the accessory box.
II WINDING IH II H IIIIII I I IIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IHIIIIIHI I BOBBIN ® O ® i I i t ® ® !. Release clutch by pulling hand wheel turning clutch knob toward you. 2. Draw thread from spool through winder tension disc as shown. bobbin Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. 4. Push bobbin shaft to Start machine. The thread that is held will snap. Bobbin will cease turning when completely filled. Push shaft to left to remove bobbin. 5. 3.
REMOVING BOBBIN CASE FROM SHUTTLE ® ® ® 1, Raise needle to its highest position rotating hand wheel toward you. 4. To remove bobbin case from shuttle, pull open latch of bobbin case. 2. Remove the extension table from machine 5. Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle. by pulling it to the left. 3. 8 Open shuttle cover. 6. Release the latch and bobbin wilt come out from bobbin case.
I IIII I IMH HI I II INSERTING BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE ® With the bobbin case in your left hand, place the bobbin into it with the thread running clockwise. , Feed the thread through case. * INSERTING BOBBIN the slot in the 3. Pull the thread under the tension plate. 4. Draw 3 to 4 inches of thread from bobbin, CASE INTO SHUTTLE i With locating pin straight up, hold the latch open, and slide the bobbin case on to the center spindle of the shuttle. .
IIIIIIII THREADING IIIII IIIII I IIII IIIIIIIIII IIIII II TOP THREAD ........... Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place thread spool on spool pin, Draw thread through thread guide 1. Holding spool stationary with right hand, pull thread through the tension discs. Pull the end of the thread taut with the left hand. 10 2_ 3_ This will pull the spring wire up and past the end of the hook.
.... IIIIIIIIIIIIII I PICKING UP BOBBIN IIIIIIIIIHIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII I II I THREAD 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. . 3. Bring bobbin thread. thread up by pulling upper ® Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, of thread clear. leaving 3 to 4 inches If you can not pick up bottom thread following above steps, then check: ® by 1. Is thread through needle ? 2.
j IIIIII UlIHHHIIIIIII ADJUSTING TENSION q> An ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric. Upper thread too tight ® Decrease tension Upper IIIIII TOP THREAD Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not I_e correct for another.
I I ! STITCH III I SELECTOR There are certain types of stitches that are used more often than others in your garment construction. Because of their frequent use, you will soon realize the convenience offered to you by this control. All of the stitches that are made by this machine are illustrated on the stitch selector dial. You can obtain your desired stitch by simply turning the stitch selector dial. Straight stitch Zigzag stitch.
I I ]11[11!11111111 IIII REVERSE STITCH CONTROL It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse. This is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and prevents raveling. J When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise and hold there during sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and seam will be fastened. PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator.
IIII SEAM IIIIII I I III III II GUIDES Seam guides are printed on needle plate, at both sides of needle, to help you line up the fabric and keep it straight. The standard seam width is 5/8". So these lines are emphasized, easy to follow. Also the cross lines are "cornering guides" to help when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. (For details on cornering, see page 25.
,*- ACCESSORIES ill NEEDLES 1 1 Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by size for your convenience (See chart on next page). Never use a bent needle or one with a dull point. If you do not have a Kenmore needle, please use this illustration to be sure your needle is the right size. Distance from top of needle to needlehole should be this exact length.
NEEDLE, i.i MIIIII IIII I IIII THREAD I I ii LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon. Silks. Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace. Organza, Crepe, Taffeta. Voile, Organdy MEDIUMWEIGHT: Cotton, Cotton Blends. Percale. Gingham, Shantung. Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits. Vinyl, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe. Leather iiii i MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT: Corduroy, Denim, Woot, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine.
FEED COVER PLATE There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot, Place feed cover plate over needle plate aligning two pins of feed cover plate with holes of needle plate. You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself, PRESSER FEET To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever (See page 15).
==CARING FOR THE MACHINE CLEANING AND IIII OILING Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a brush. To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Open shuttle access cover and remove needle plate with large screw driver. Then using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs. Fig. i Fig, 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly To Clean the Shuttle Area: 1.
i ............................................................... OILING UNDER TOP COVER PLATE Remove indicated Use one machine arm cover plate to oil points by arrows in top of machine head. to two drops of Kenmore sewing oil at each part, To remove cover plate, loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate. OiUNG UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers and rear support to oil points indicated by arrows on underside of machine.
I OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE Swing face cover plate open and oil points indicated by arrows in illustration. CHANGING LIGHT BULB The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb, push switch to off, unplug machine and swing the face cover plate open. Push up on the bulb slightly and,turn bulb to the left. Withdraw bulb from socket. Push in new bulb and turn to the right.
iCHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS SUSPECTED PROBLEM IRREGULAR STITCHES PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Light pressure on presser foot, Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening. BREAKING NEEDLE Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. BUNCHING THREAD OF PUCKERING Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.
IIII POSSIBLY II II HIIIIII I IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIUII IIIIIII EASY CORRECTION Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Rethread machine; check tension spring threading. Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Increase pressu re on presser foot. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Reset needle. Reset presser foot.
STARTING TO SEW Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories pr,ovided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your sewing machine, Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1, Check the needle-it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. it should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used, Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently.
STRAIGHT STITCHING Stitch selector Pressure regulator See page 14. Stitch length dial Presserfoot "Straight, zigzagfoot or O foot *You may use zigzag, straight stitch foot or Q foot but for best control of fabric, best looking straight stitches and best .feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch Foot, Any setting but "0" FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.
REMOVING FABRIC First turn the handwheet toward you until the needle is at its highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw materials to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar as shown. TOP- STITCHING This is a seam you may want to show off! It's on the front side of the garment, possibly at the top of a "kick pleat" or on a lapel, both functional and decorative.
IIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIII III IIIIIII TEMPORARY SEWING BY MACHINE No longer do you need to baste by hand! Basting by machine is easy-simply use straight stitching with longest available length setting. PiN BASTING You can sew over pins easily (if done correctly) because your presser feet are hinged. Pins must be inserted at right angles to seam line. Tip of pin should just touch seam line. Sew over tip of pins. Pins must not come in contact with feed dogs: Never pin on the under-side of the fabric.
il II IIIIMIIII I III ZIGZAG STITCHING f Stitch selector Pressureregulator See page 14. Presserfoot Stitch length dial Zigzagfoot Any setting but "0" TOP VIEW CHECKING THREAD ZIGZAG STITCHES TENSION OF The easiest way to check tension is to sew a medium zig zag stitch on the fabric you will be using. °Use the appropriate type of thread and needle as recommended on page 17. Sew a line of zig zag stitches. The bobbin thread should not show on the top of the fabric.
III IIII I I IIIIII SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Stitch Selector - Zigzag Stitch Stitch Length Dial - Between 0 and 24 Satin Stitch Foot Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing, bar tacking. Satin stitch foot Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.
HIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!IIIIIIIII I II I IIIIIIIII APPLIQUEING SETTINGS Stitch Selector - Zigzag Stitch Stitch Length Dia! - Between 0 and 24 Satin Stitch Foot Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the-applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread. BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Stitch Selector - Zigzag Stitch Use Feed Cover Plate or Feed Dog Down. 1.
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII II BLIND HEMMING Pre_zsure regulator Stitch setector a See page 14. Presserfoot Zigzagfoot Stitch length dial J optionalaccessoryitem6885 - adjustableblindhem JFor easierbJindhemmingit is recommendedto usej foot. Within green zone PROCEDURE q> INSIDE ® FINISHED EDGE Finish edge of hem anyway you desire. Turn up hem appropriate width, ® Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge.
__ I MENDING AND OVERCAST I STITCHING II IIIIIIH IIIIIII III IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII II (THREE-STEP ZIGZAG) Pressureregulator Stitch selector 0 See page 14. Presserfoot Stitch length dial _gzagfoot Within greenzone MENDING iiJ_ii_3JiJi__Jiiii_iiiii__iJiiiiifiiii!_i_!i__i To repair a straight or three.cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center.
IIIIIII IIIIll I I SHELL STITCHING Pressureregulator Stitch selector See page 14. Presser foot Stitch length dial Zigzagfoot Within green zone PROCEDURE This shell-stitched edge is a popular finish for lingerie and nightgowns. To achieve this multiple scalloped effect, allow needle to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zigzags.
J II II IHIIIII II IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII HIIIIIIII I HIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIHIIII • BOX STITCH Stitch selector Pressure regulator {) See page 14. Presserfoot Stitch length dia! Zigzagfoot Within green zone OVERLAPPED SEAM Box stitch is ideal for producing flat overlapped seams on almost any type of fabric and a bolder effect wilt result from sewing with a contrasting thread. Overlap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric 2" and pin or tack.
_ Ill STRETCH STITCHES Pressureregulator Stitch selector 0 See page 14. Presserfoot Stitch length dial Zigzag foot Within yellow zone The stitches shown at left are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics, These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
III I IIIIIIII/ IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIL III !111111 IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length - Yellow Zone You may use either a zig zag or straight stitch foot BUT-- for best control of fabric, best looking straight stitches and best feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch Foot. Use this stretch stitcl_ with knit or synthetic fabric. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric.
RMOCKING _Stitch Selector STRETCH STITCH - Stitch Lengthi!. Yellow Zone Make a straight line of gathers across the fabric that you wish to smock, With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers. The design will be a series of small diamonds. Note: When smocking e garment, the stitch * ing should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment.
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII III II II II II IIIIII II IIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII SERGING (OR PINE LEAF) STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector Stitch Length - Yellow Zone Great in making elastic swimwear-as well as for overcasting a neat edge on seams, It's equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics, Tension may need to be tightened to achieve desired look. ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector Stitch Length - Yellow Zone Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in garments.
II III IIIIIIIIIIIII WHERE TO USE WHICH STRETCH STITCH: stretchy suggestions... constructed knits sometimes catch toes of presser foot. To remedy this, short strip of transparent tape around foot encasing both toes. avoid tangled threads when working with tits, start seams carefully. Position fabric td lower needle before lowering presser A CHECK-CHART It is always a good idea to test thread tension and stitches on a scrap of the fabric being used.
! IH I IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIII I I BUTTONHOLE MAKING - BUILT-IN SYSTEM (BAR-TACK BUTTONHOLES) Pressureregulator Stitch selector See page t4. Presserfoot Stitch length dial Buttonholeguide foot Within buttonhole zone PREPARATION Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment, Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the buttonhole foot.
II IIIIIIHI PROCEDURE 0 Set stitch selector at 0 and sew several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you manually. Step 1 Set stitch selector at |_]. Stitch forward until you approach the front marking of the buttonhole, Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to its highest position. Step 2 m Set stitch selector at U again and sew several times.
iiiiiiiiii ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY More density l ® ® Depending upon the fabrics on which sewing, or your own preference in holes, you may alter buttonhole stitch by varying the original stitch length within the green zone. you are buttondensity setting 1. For more density, turn thediat away from you. 2. For less density, turn the d_al toward you. Less density CORDED A == :LJIIL ii =1 N U =L_L¢.
II BUTTONHOLE /I IIIIlUlIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIII MAKING-USINGBUTTONHOLE Pressureregulator ATTACHMENT (Model 1358) Stitch selector See page 12. Presserfoot Satin stitch foot Stitch length dial Feed dog down Between 0 and 24 PROCEDURE 1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot, Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole cover plate. 2. Screw guide pin on buttonhole guide plate into guide pin hole on needle plate. Guide pin hole Pinion gear Guide pin \ 43
I I 3. Insert a template into the slot of template holder. Select the proper size of buttonhole by turning the template advance knob. 4. Pull the guide plate all the way forward so that the guide pin is at °'S". This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole. Drop guide plate into place over the pinion gear, Template Holder / Template Advance Knob I Fig. 3 Fig. 4 . Fig. 5 44 Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel and drawing thread to back of machine.
III1[ IIIlUlIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMII I/I I II II IIIIIIIHIIII I II IIIIP BUTTONHOLE MAKING - USING BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT PremJre re.mr Stitch lelector 0 See page 14, Press_' foot Buttonhole foot Stitch length dial Feed cover plate SETTING Tab Release lever Any setting STITCH SELECTOR PROCEDURE ® , Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot. Remove the extension table from machine and open shuttle cover.
III II Select correct template for type buttonhole you want. Insert template into slot of guide plate. Turn template advance knob to desired size. . (__jGuide ® II plate . Slip guide plate onto machine so it fits in place with pinion gear in the center of arc hole of template. Be sure guide block is inserted in guide slot. Your machine controls should be set as shown on page 44. You will note that the stitch selector can be set for several stitch widths.
ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY \ Depending upon the fabrics on which you are sewing, or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter buttonhole stitch density by turning stitch density control knob. 1. When delivered, stitch density control knob will be tighterted completely. For more density, turn the knob toward you. If the knob should be loosened as far as it can go during adjustment, retighten it by a quarter to half a turn to assure smooth operation. 2, For less density, turn the knob away from you.
III II IIIIIIII FREE-ARM II SEWING Your Kenmore sewing machine is easily converted from a traditional flat-bed to a contemporary free-arm sewing machine by removing extension table. The free arm enables you to sew tubular types of pieces more easily. Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as shown. You will find many feature such as: , \ \ 48 uses for and knees this free arm 1, Mend elbows more easily. of garments 2. Sew in sleeves more easily.
SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, shouid anead ever exist for repair parts or ean_e, sinciy contect any Seam Service Cen_r and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. Stores. Be sum to Ixovide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page3 for location.
