SEWING MACHINE
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very please pause for a moment and care for your Specific instructions obtain the Advice on the fine zigzag sewing and carefully Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructions machine, on how to operate machine. are given best sewing results operation on threading, tension adjustments, and avoid unnecessary and care of your Please remember, if you the model and serial number number machine.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxigen is being administered. DAN G ER- Toreduce the risk of electric shock: 8.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS "For appliances With a potariz_ plug (one blade wider t_an the other)_ To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way." "Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1148x x x, 385.1158 x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.
TABLE SECTION KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. Locate and Identify the Parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................ SECTION OF CONTENTS 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE • Left Needle Position ........................ 18 Darning ................................. 19 Straight Stretch ............................ 19 Zigzag Stitches ........................... 20_26 • Basic Zigzag ............................. 20 • Satin Stitch ...............
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available Locate and Identify the Parts A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case... then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere.
SECTION ArmCover Plate Carrying 1.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power sPw°itwce_ Z supply • Foot Control Use plug _'_Power light Foot Plu_l connector 4. Push the light and power switch on the power and sewing to turn light. To SAFETY FEATURE: inserting machine, OFF. be the sure plug the power into Your your switch is Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet. 2.
SECTION • Setting Spool Pin Spool pin • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever 2. Thread PREPARE YOUR MACHINE Cutter t= Normal up position positior High position P position 'Presser foot lever J The spool pin is used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the machine. The To use, pull up the spool pin. for storage. up position Push down Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose Your Needle and Thread Set Up the Machine (Continued) • Free-ArmSewing: the Removable ExtensionTable • = AccessoryStorageBox • Change the PresserFoot To Change Your Needle ! ' ;/ _. I' _ 7"-_, side _ away II from you To Remove the Extension (for free-arm 1. Grip the table and thumb, 2, Pull gently table will Table The with your index finger as shown, to the left. The extension snap out. (for flat-bed sewing) 2.
SECTION • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch > Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (11 ) Orange Red ......... (11 ) ........ (14) .......... for stretch for lightweight for (16) ........ for fabrics. or medium-heavy fabrics. medium-heavy and decorative fabrics.
SECTION Prepare • 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING the Bobbin To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin J J Remove the the machine left. Open pulling extension table by pulling the down shuttle from it to the cover by the embossed part on the left side of the cover. Raise needle by rotating to its hi_ghest position hand wheel toward you. clutch knob toward you to stop the needle from moving To remove bobbin case from shutcase.
SECTION 2. PREPARE Y_OUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Wind the Bobbin (Continued) 7 Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. Place bobbin bobbin until it thread, slightly • onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push winding spindle to the right clicks. Holding onto end of start machine. When bobbin is filled, snip off end of thread. Wind thread until winder stops.
SECTION Prepare • 2. Your PREPARE Top YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Thread Thread Your Needle I .... Raise take-up I J _- lever to its highest position i J by turning _ ,, hand wheel toward _.. • you. Raise presser foot]ever. Place spool on spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted loops lines and then show places is pulled tight. where the thread 1. Draw thread 2. While holding check spring 3. Firmly 4. Draw 5.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread F Raise presser foot lever. Hold top 2. thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by top thread, pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inchesof thread clear. If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 3.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose the Correct Top side of fabric The best tension Tension: will depend on; X Setting the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric mark Loosen layers the type of stitch t ooI}! thread I The top thread is too loose. Tighten thread of fabric \ j For Straight The ideal fabric, If you straight look stitch will have threads above, magnified at the each stitch W/hen adjusting thread.
SECTION2. PREPAREYOUR MACHINEFORSEWING For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top tension.
SECTION2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Stitch Selector Stitch Length Control Model 12781 0 / Setting Setting 2 mark 4 I I mark I I I Stitch Se/lector \\ ! I t Stitch !Length \\\ \ I \ ) ting : l "_* ch Select°r/ i _ Stitch Length Control ; The stitch The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance /Setting mark f__ Stitch Length _oV,_ / L___J "_\ \ / oL,_ ,__2_,3_4_s I==, I , ,_ ___k' I I "_l • Stitch Length \ | / l t Cont_rol_ To select Stretch position. Stitches, set this control at • In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L (• position) for most materials.
SECTION 2. StartingTo Now that Kenmore 1. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE Sew you are familiar sewing Inspect afraid FOR SEWING with machine. the needle. to change the controls Below It should your on your are some good habits be straight, needle frequently. properly Many machine to follow and with the accessories provided each time you sit down set and sharp on the point.
SECTION Straight • 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Stitches Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch Stitch ! selector 1 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Cornering Stitch length control orange 1. Raisethepresser foot. 7. 2. Raise the position. At the end of the seam, you may want to reverse to lock the stitch. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. 9. Cut the threads. 3. Straight foot Zigzag foot 4.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches (Continued) • Usethe DarningPlate Topstitching • Left Needle Position Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Sor0etir_.t when to control _ ___v, you Stitch length control orange want Here's _ \ To put on the Darning 2. the fabric. Plate: Straight The rectangular holes Darning match Plate the darning plate, holes are slightly of center.
SECTION Darning 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Stitch Stitch selector I Top thread tension Stitch control1 to 4 controlany number length Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow position _=_ Here's How 1. No presser foot stretchstitch l___J Put the darning plate on the needle plate (seep. 1_88). Darning plate 2. Remove presser foot and stretch fabric Straight centered. 3.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches • BasicZigzag Set the Stitch Machine Stitch Top thread tension control 2 to 5 selector Stitch length control orange =: Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch. Consult the specific variations for detailed directions. Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Satin Stitch Zigzag w dth: Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Stitch selector length : 1 2 3 Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 4 Close to 0 Satin stitch foot The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Here's How used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for example, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins).
SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) Applique Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch Sat the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 I s LL_ Satin stitch foot Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch selector Stitch length control any number (not nec_adjust ) Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 188), To 1. Set the stitch selector at " threads 2. Align the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left hole of the button just below the needle point. 3.
SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) Overcasting Stitch Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Set the Machine selector The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project.
SECTION Overcast Stretch Stitching (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitchi_ 3.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches (Continued) Lace Work (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 0,5 to 1 Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 J Seam Finishing Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presserfoot.
SECTION Blind Hemming LEARN THE STITCHES (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) 1/4" Set the Machine Stitch 3. Stitch selector Light (Regular) Fabric Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 to 3 There are two blind hem stitches on your machine. The regular blind hem is used for woven fabrics. wider and will "give" and is used for knit and stretch fabrics. Zigzag foot 1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired. (See Overcasting, p. 24) 2.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Buttonholes Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to5 Stitch length contro 17 1. a. Carefully length b. Change mark on your the buttonhole to the sliding buttonhole buttonhole b. foot c. NOTE: the Stitch Depending own upon may alter density in fabric buttonhole the blue range on the stitch length (_) For more toward (_) For 28 up with the mark markings the top mark (B). on the on your selector b.
SECTION 4. a. Set the stitch selector at 51 al Set the Stitch _iect0r b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing b. Sew until you reach at _ the i back marking of the buttonhole. at the right stitch. 6. a. _t the stitch selector ai_] b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing m 3. LEARN THE STITCHES 7. Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener. at the left stitch. c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew in a Zipper Fabric Preparation : Set the Machine Put the gether right and length the of the fabric to- sew to the end of the zip- per opening. the stitches. Sew sides Use zipper at "4" and the reverse opening top with thread to Stitch Zipper 1I8") Stitch selector teeth Zipper lock tape stitch tension at "3". Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length control 2 To Sew: 1.
SECTION 8. Open Lower the zipper. the presser foot 10. and stitch Close the fabric right zipper and the turn side up. the rest of the seam. 11. TO sew the right side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the right side of the needle. 14. 3, LEARN THE STITCHES Stop about 2" from the top of the the fabric zipper, 15. 12. Stitch across and below the bot- Lower and the raise needle the presser Remove the basting open zipper. into foot. tom of the zipper. 16.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Shell Stitching (Models 12781 and 12681) Smocking Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 3 to 9 Stitch Stitch length control 1to 2 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Here's How 1. For best effect: - set the stitch length as you desire.
SECTION Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12781 only) Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 LEARN THE STITCHES Box Stitching (Model 12781 only) Set the Machine Stitch 3. Set the Machine selector Stitch Stitch length control yellow Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control 1 position ,\_ stretch stitch Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. L__J Zigzag foot Zigzag foot Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them.
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle CAUSE size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine, and fabric. Tighten upper thread tension.
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When (Continued) PROBLEM Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric• Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast, Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension_ Incorrect size needta. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
SECTION 5, CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb Cleaning the Machine To insure that your machine The feed dogs and shuttle is caught. Check operates at its best, you need to keep the essential race areas can attract and clean those areas about If you sew frequently, every three dust and lint. months under Your normal machine parts clean at all times. can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread use. clean more often. J I Clean the Feed Dogs // L 1.
SECTION " • 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area • about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle Shuttle driver Lever Shuttle Lever CevGr i Shuttle Race Lever (Oil here) Bobbin case . To Clean the Shuttle 1. Raise point the needle Clean the -- bar :::c shuttle :ccc to its : race [ ' highest 1. case.
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Oiling the Machine Oil the machine in all areas shown on this page at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
PARTS LIST 1 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Searsstore or service center. 2 3 4 5 6 WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: REPAIR PARTS, 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING 2. PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No. 7 1 8 2 3 4 5 13 Part No.
INDEX A Accessory storage box ............... Adjusting stretch stitch balance ......... Applique ........................ Arm cover plate .................. 2, 6 15 22 3, 38 Feed dogs ....................... Foot control .................... 36 3_4 Free arm sewing .................... 6 H Hand wheel ..................... 3, 16 B Bar tacking ...................... 22 Basic zigzag ...................... 20 Blind hemming .................... 27 Bobbin ................... 3, 8 "_ 9, 39 Bobbin case ....
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WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from ---" • in the mechanical - FULL For _1 the date of purchase, components TWO YEAR two appear years from in the ON SEWING of purchase, equipment HEAD free of charge, machine defects in material or workmanship which appear ; i) EQUIPMENT Sears will, of the sewing repair head.