Instructions / Assembly

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the flooring surface. Warning – DO NOT allow adhesives to dry on the finished flooring as it is
very difficult to remove it once dried without damaging the flooring. For info on an adhesive
remover please contact the adhesive company.
Remember to stagger end joints from row to row with at least 6” of spacing. Avoid stair or “H”
patterns in end joint placement. Always leave at least a 5/8” expansion space between
flooring and walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic
spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. Walk each section of flooring gin
order to make sure it is well bonded to the subfloor within the adhesive working time. Flooring
planks on the perimeter of the room may require weight on them until the adhesive cures
enough to hold them down.
STAPLE/NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared. Use a
stapler/nailer with the appropriate nail-down adaptor (or a stapler/nailer of your choice) to
make sure that stapling/nailing will not cause dimpling or edge chipping in the finished floor.
Use the correct gauge nail/cleat/staple.
For the first and second starting rows: Lay the first plank inside the chalk line with grooved
edge toward the wall. Install the entire first row in the same manner. Always leave at least a
½” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and
cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. In
order to affix these first rows, as it is difficult to get the nail gun in place next to the wall, you
may wish to set these rows first with screws and later replace the boards and glue them down
rather than simply face-nailing them and leave unsightly nail holes which must be putty filled
to match the wood floor. After gluing down these starting rows with a urethane adhesive set
weight on top of these rows and allow them to set before commencing stapling/nailing the
additional rows, as nailing the adjacent rows may cause the starting rows to subsequently
move. Make sure the starting rows are straight and drawn tight.
Subsequent rows: Lay by using floor nailer/stapler to blind-nail top inside edge of tongue at a
45 degree angle. Nail each board every 4-6” and within 2” of each end. Remember to stagger
end joints from row to row and use a tapping block to fit boards together. It may be necessary
to face-nail in doorways or tight areas where the nailer/stapler can’t fit, (or glue down in these
areas and weight them while the mastic sets). The last two rows will need to be face nailed, (or
glued down), in the same manner as the first two rows. WARNING – Stapling/nailing can cause
dimpling on the face if stapled incorrectly. Always make sure to visually check the installed
floor as you go to ensure that the stapling/nailing is not causing dimpling on the face. (Note:
be sure to look at the face of the installed flooring at a low angle from a distance to see if
dimpling is occurring as it is hard to see when directly above the floor.) If dimpling does occur,
STOP and adjust the stapler/nailer shoe and angle/place of staple entry in order to avoid it.
We are not responsible for dimpling.