Installation Guide
Note: treated wood will last a long time, therefore so will your workmanship. You’ll be happier — and your project will
look better — if you take your time and observe the following construction techniques.
• Check your local building code requirements and get a permit if required. For additional industry guidance, see
www.awc.org/publications/download.php.
• Separate deck boards to allow for expansion and contraction. If heavy and wet, separate boards no more than 1/16”
as some shrinkage will occur. If light and dry, separate boards about 1/8” to allow for swelling.
• Shorter spans between joists will help to minimize warping and twisting of deck boards as they dry.
• Avoid designs with long cantilevers unsecured at one end; check with your local building department on maximum
cantilever permitted.
• Lumber wider than six inches should not be used as a at surface. Wide, at boards are subject to ponding of rain
water, which can lead to cupping problems.
• Place boards bark side up to help shed water. They will also be more likely to have treated sapwood on the exposed face.
• Make sure there is good under-deck ventilation for above-ground treated wood, allowing airow around the entire deck.
• All material treated for above-ground use must be o the ground where it can dry easily and be free of leaves or
other debris. If not, use wood treated to Ground Contact.
• All joists and beams must be treated to at least Ground Contact.
• Proper ashing or spacers should be used between all adjacent structures and the deck.
• If a board is bowed, install it with the crown up. Gravity and the weight of people and furniture will atten it. Or, if a
board has a slight bend to it, it sometimes can be straightened as it is screwed or nailed in place.
Tips to Properly Install Treated Wood
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
VISIT LOWES.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.