Technical information

from the wire, being careful not to damage or cut off any of
the strands inside. Place the terminal on the end of the wire,
and point the wire straight up. If you intend to install heat-
shrink, place a 1” strip on the wire beforehand, as the diam-
eter of the lug will prevent it’s installation afterwards.
The end of the wire should exit just about even with the end
of the crimp on the terminal. Place the tip of the iron on the
area heating both the terminal and the wire, then slowly
start to apply solder. As the solder melts, capillary action
will draw or “wick” it up into the wire strands. Keep a steady
supply until the wicking action stops and the solder starts to
pool on top. The connection should be bright and shiny, and
the end of the wire near the terminal should be stiff from
the strands hardened with solder. Heat-shrink tubing can be
shrunk in place using a match, hot-air gun, or 1000-watt
hair dryer at close range.
Connect all the cables to the solenoid first, leaving the bat-
tery terminals for last.
Before connecting the battery terminals, check the auxiliary
battery cable leads are not touching (shorted in the rear of
the vehicle) place a plastic bag over each one to prevent this
from occurring. Next, connect the positive and negative leads
to the battery.
Driver’s compartment
Next, remove moldings or panels along the right side of the
compartment and route the DC cable from the firewall
entrance, along the right side of the car back to the rear
deck or trunk. Study the fastener type used in your vehicle.
Some panels unlock from each other by special tooth/clips,
while others require popping out special push rivets first. If
these cannot be removed by simply pulling, you’re doing
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