Instructions / Assembly

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or
crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods.
Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and possible when
using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. These symptoms
may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.
SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND NAILERS
Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple/
nail-down installations and can change as environmental changes
occur. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered
under our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty
coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by
being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any
loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You
should also be sure that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener
properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct
nailing schedule.
When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage wood flooring. If
the tool is not adjusted properly the staples/ cleats may not be
positioned at the proper angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking,
or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the use of an
adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a piece of scrap
material first - set the stapler/ nailer flush on the tongue side of the
plank and install a staple/ cleat. Should the staple/ cleat penetrate too
deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple/ cleat is not deep enough
then increase the air pressure using an in-line regulator. The crown of
the staple/ cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket to prevent
damage to the flooring and to reduce squeaking. The flooring
manufacturer is not responsible for damage caused by the mechanical
fasteners.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use manufacturer's recommended
staples or cleats.
For 3/8” thick products the minimum length staple/ cleat is 1”
For ½” thick products the minimum length staple/cleat is 1 ¼”
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up
and operation of equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the
subfloor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep
the floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no
complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications).
2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each
end, the overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space
needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
4. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge
and secure into position with the tongue facing away from the starter
wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every
6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the
board and secure planks with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and
fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from
surface.
5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end
joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards
(Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the width of the
flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few rows prior to
using a pneumatic stapler/ nailer.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause
side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
Installing the Floor
6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from
the ends and every 3” – 4” thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted
properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is flush
within the nail pocket. As you continue working across the floor try to
maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly
install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together
until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present
between adjacent planks. NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer
directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This can
damage the flooring and/or finish.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of
the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall.
Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the
final planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-
nail through the surface on the final planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-
degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails.
Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in
darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails.
Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler –
remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
(5 Ply Products 3/8” & ½” thick, 3” or wider only)
Additional tools & material needed:
A.F.B. Floating Floor
Adhesive™
Shaw T&G Adhesive
Clean Green™ Hardwood
Floor Cleaner/ Shaw R2X
Terry Cloth towels 6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting
Foam underlayment Tapping Block & Spacers
Pry/Pull Bar 2in1 Underlayment
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
 6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood
product sub floor.
 6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type subfloors – on
grade or below grade.
 Do not install over carpet.
 If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub
floor. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
 If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at
right angles to the wood floor.
 Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws.
 Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor.
 ½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
 Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add
1/16” to the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room
extends beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’in length or width
– it is recommended to use a T-Molding for proper expansion.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings
1/16” higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be
installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment
against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a
hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width
of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the
flooring). The last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½”
wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow last
row.
3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each
end, the overall width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first
row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width of the ripped
board plus ½” for expansion.
4. Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these points.
5. Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mil. Poly sheeting overlapping
edges 4” and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run
2” up the wall and trim back after installation of flooring. Install 1/8”
foam underlayment.
Note:
Use of a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions for application installing the 2
in 1 underlayment.
6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board)
inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks
from shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight
piece of lumber or piece of flooring. This is temporary and will be
replaced as the floor is completed.
Installing the Floor
7. Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the
flooring and the wall.
8. Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of
flooring. Working from right to left, install planks so that the groove
faces the straight edge (starter board). When reaching the end of the
first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. On the first 4 rows stagger
end joints a minimum of 16” and then 8” thereafter.
9. Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second
row. If the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use
that piece to start the second row.
10. Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure that
the rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends. Once
you have dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in
order. You are ready to begin.
11. Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive along
the groove of the short side (width) and the plank’s side groove
(length). Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause
side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
12. Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge.
Work from right to left. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no
gaps between the boards. Use a tapping block if need to close the
boards together. Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with a
clean, slightly dampened cloth.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish surface can
be difficult to remove and may leave a haze.
13. At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the
planks tight.
14. Continue to install the floor working right to left, repeating the
process until the completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers on
all vertical surfaces to maintain the ½” expansion.
DO NOT USE laminate straps as they may damage the flooring