Instructions / Assembly

Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up and operation of equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the subfloor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the floor
clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications).
2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the
overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
4. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing toward the starter wall (away
from you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure
planks with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface.
5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the bottom of the groove -2”-3” from the end joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards
(Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few rows prior to using a
pneumatic stapler/ nailer.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
Installing the Floor
6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 4” – 6” thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted
properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is flush within the bottom groove. As you continue working across the floor try to
maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between
adjacent planks. NOTE: Never use a rubber
mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This can damage the
flooring and/or finish.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once
the final cuts are made set planks into place.
9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the final planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail
through the surface on the final planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails. Alternatively, drill
pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with
appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional tools & material needed:
A.F.B. Floating Floor Adhesive™
Shaw T&G Adhesive
Clean Green™ Hardwood
Floor Cleaner/ Shaw R2X
Terry Cloth towels
6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting
Foam underlayment
Tapping Block & Spacers
Pry/Pull Bar
2in1 Underlayment
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
• 6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product sub floor.
• 6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type subfloors – on grade or below grade.
• Do not install over carpet.
• If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub floor. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
• If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at right angles to the wood floor.
• Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws.
• Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor.
• ½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
• Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room extends
beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’in length or width – it is recommended to use a T-Molding for proper expansion.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be installed.
Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power
jamb saw set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring). The
last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow last row.
3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each end, the
overall width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width of the ripped board plus ½”
for expansion.
4. Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these points.
5. Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mil. Poly sheeting overlapping edges 4” and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run 2” up the
wall and trim back after installation of flooring. Install 1/8” foam underlayment.
Note: Use of a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for application installing the 2 in 1
underlayment.
6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board) inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from
shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or piece of flooring. This is temporary and will be replaced as the
floor is completed.