CV_64780_SON90A1_LB6.qxd 03.03.2011 14:04 Uhr Seite 1 Overlock Sewing Machine SON 90 A1 6 Overlock Sewing Machine Operating instructions KOMPERNASS GMBH BURGSTRASSE 21 · D-44867 BOCHUM www.kompernass.com ID-Nr.
CV_64780_SON90A1_LB6.qxd 03.03.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 1 INDEX PAGE Intended Usage 3 Safety instructions 3 Items supplied 4 Technical Data 4 Description of the appliance 5 Bringing the upper blade into a rest position 5 Needle Information 5 Upper looper element 5 Opening the front flap 6 Preparation 6 Connecting the foot pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 2 Overlock seams 19 Roll hemmings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Binding-off and sample sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Recommended tension settings . . .
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 3 OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE Intended Usage This overlock sewing machine is intended ... - for use as a portable machine, – for the trimming of material edges (sewing) of typical household textiles, and ... – only for domestic household use. This overlock sewing machine is not intended ... - to be installed at a permanent location, – for the processing of other materials (e.g.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 29.03.2011 13:11 Uhr Seite 4 Items supplied Overlock Sewing Machine Oil Waste container Accessory box Operating instructions Replacement blade (bottom) 2 Needles Nr. 11 4 Needles Nr. 14 (2 in the machine, pre-installed) 4 Bobbin caps Upper looper element Screwdriver small Screwdriver large Covering hood Tweezers Brush with integrated unstitcher The accessories are to be found in the accessory box on the side of the machine (Fig.1.). Fig.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 6 Opening the front flap Attention! Always switch the machine off with the power switch 8 when you open the front flap 0. Risk of Injury! • Slide the front flap 0 to the right (A) and then pull it towards you (B) (Fig. 5).You will see the upper looper behind the front flap 0. Note: While sewing, the front flap 0 must be kept closed! Fig. 5 Preparation Place the overlock sewing machine on a stable and level surface.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 7 Removing needle(s) Attention! Before exchanging the needles, remove the power plug. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Tip! An exchange of the needles is easier if you first remove the free arm cover (Fig. 9a)! 1. Turn the handwheel 6 towards yourself until the needles are in the highest position (Fig. 9b) Fig.9a 2.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 8 Threading Note: 4 3 1 2 On delivery, all 4 threads are already threaded. You can begin sewing immediately. Should you wish to change the thread, and all 4 threads are still threaded, then proceed as described in the chapter "Changing threads (binding together)“. Should you need to rethread all threads from scratch, then proceed as described in this chapter, "Threading“.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 9 3. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down until it slips under the thread guide (2) (Fig. 16). Fig. 16 4. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through the discs of the thread tension selector z and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 17). Note: The yarn must lie correctly between the two discs of the thread tension selector z. Fig. 17 5.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 10 Threading the lower looper thread (yellow) Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch 8 at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Figure 19 shows the thread path of the lower looper thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following. Fig. 19 1.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 11 5. Thread the yarn in the looper area as per the yellow markings (4 - 8) (Fig. 22). Fig. 22 6. Firmly hold the yarn with the tweezers about 4 cm from the thread guide (Fig. 23). 7. Now guide it lightly, from the left and with the tweezers, under the thread guide. 8. Pull the yarn upwards into the thread guide (9). 9 8 9. Lead the yarn to the rear and over the upper end of the lower looper p (10A) (Fig. 23). 10.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 12 2. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down until it slips under the thread guide (2) (Fig. 25). Fig. 25 3. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through the discs of the thread tension selector t and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 26). Note: The yarn must lie correctly between the two discs of the thread tension selector t. Fig. 26 4. Thread the yarn as per the green markings (4- 7) (Fig. 27/28).
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 13 Threading yarn for the left needle (blue) Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch 8 at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Figure 29 shows the thread path of the left needle thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following. 1.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 14 4. Thread the yarn as per the blue markings (4 - 6) (Fig. 32/33). Fig. 32 5 5. Thread the yarn through the left needle (7) (Fig. 33). 6. Lay the yarn to the rear under the sewing foot a. Fig. 33 Trial run When yarn has been threaded for the first time, or after a yarn breakage it must be rethreaded, proceed as follows: Lift the sewing foot a.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 15 Changing threads (binding together) Changing threads is quite simple with the following procedure: 1. Cut the yarn above the spool support 2 (Fig. 34) and place the new roll of thread on the spool support 2. Fig. 34 2. Tie the ends of the new and the old thread together (Fig. 35). Fig. 35 3. Place the thread tension selector r/t/z/u at "0" (Fig. 36) and lift the sewing foot a. 4.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 16 ... by turning the seam width adjustment knob By using the seam width adjustment knob f, seam width can be adjusted within the ranges indicated below. • Only the left needle is used: • Only the right needle is used: 5.2 - 6.7 mm 3.0 - 4.5 mm Setting the seam width adjustment knob Attention! Before making adjustments with the seam width adjustment knob f always place the mains switch 8 at the position "O" (Off).
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 17 Differential transport Manner of operation The machine has two sets of toothed rack feeders, one to the front and one to the rear. Both sets move independant of each other. Through the differential feed motion both toothed rack sets can move themselves at various speeds. With this, the fabric is stretched or gathered, depending on which transport differential has been set between the front and rear rack feeders. Fig.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 18 Free arm sewing To work tubular-shaped fabrics, such as sleeves or trouser legs, you can remove the free arm cover. • If appropriate, remove the waste container from the machine. • Slide the free arm cover to the left and pull it off (Fig. 46).. Fig. 46 • You can now pull the textiles over the free arm w and work them (Fig. 47). • To replace the free arm cover, push it onto the free arm w until it clicks into place and is firmly seated (Fig. 48).
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 19 Overlock seams • Open the front flap 0. • Slide the seam width switch d to "S", so that the seam width finger is pushed forward (1) (Fig. 49). Note: The seam width switch d must be pushed until it can go no further. Otherwise, the seams will be untidy. Standard position Fig. 49 Roll hemmings • Open the front flap 0. • Slide the seam width switch d to "R", so that the seam width finger is pushed backward (1) (Fig. 50).
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 20 Binding-off and sample sewing • Lay all yarns under the sewing foot a, to the rear, slightly to the left and over the stitch plate e. • Firmly hold the yarns under a slight tension. • Turn the handwheel 6 2 to 3 revolutions onto itself to begin empty chainstitch formation. • Lower the sewing foot a with the sewing foot lever 4.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 21 2-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) Figure 53 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 2 threads is used for tidying the edges of light or stretchy fabrics. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam. Adjust the thread tension selectors r t z u to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 22 2-thread-overcast-stitch Figure 56 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 2 threads is used for tidying normal fabrics with an overcast stitch. It is also ideal for flat stitch seams (fell or butt seams) and blind hemming. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 23 3-thread chain stitch (overlock) Needle position Figure 59 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threads is used for tidying of normal fabrics with an overcast stitch. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 24 3-thread - flatlock seam Needle position Figure 63 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threads is used for fell or butt seams and for ornamental stitches with decorative thread. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide flatlock seam (flatlock). Adjust the thread tension selectors r t z u to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 25 3-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) Needle position Figure 67 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threads is used for sewing, for example, decorative edges. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast chain seam. Adjust the thread tension selectors r t z u to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 26 3-thread safety stitch, highly elastic, imitated Needle position Figure 71 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with 2 needles and 3 threads is ideal for lightweight, extremely stretchy fabrics such as jersey and spandex. Seam width switch S Adjust the thread tension selectors r t z u to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 27 4-thread safety stitch, highly elastic, imitated Needle position Figure 75 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with 2 needles and 4 threads is ideal for medium to heavy, stretchy fabrics such as double-knitted materials and swimwear. It is suitable for combining two materials and neatening the edges at the same time.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 28 Roll hemmings With this machine you can sew four different roll hemming types. When sewing roll hemmings, the fabric edge is folded over and provided with an overlock seam. Lightweight fabrics such as batiste, chiffon, organza and so on are best for these kinds of seams. Heavy fabrics or stiff materials are not suitable for roll hemmings. • Remove the left needle. • Set the seam width switch d at "R" (Fig. 80).
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 29 2-thread rolled hem Figure 85 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. Adjust the thread tension selectors t u to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper o.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 30 Flatlock decorative seams To produce flatlock seams, set up the thread tensions for a 3-thread overlock stitch. Sew a seam and then pull the fabric apart to smooth the seam. The flatlock seam can be used as a decorative assembly seam or as pure ornamental stitching (Fig. 87, dark thread). Tips: • Pay attention to proper tension, so that the workpiece can be pulled well apart after sewing.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 31 Flatlock seam as decorative seam • Adjust the movable upper blade i into a rest position (Fig. 92). The textile is not trimmed in this type of seam. • Fold the textile so that the two inside sides lie on each other. Fig. 92 • Place the textile so that a portion of the stitch is sewn outside of the textile (Fig. 93). • Sew the seam. • Then fold the textiles apart. The stitches will then lie flat. Fig.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 32 Sewing corners Outer corners Cutting line 1. Cut away, before and after the corner, about 2 cm to the seam line (Fig. 97). 2. Sew a stitch further than to the marking "A" on the drawing and then stop (Fig. 97). Fig. 97 3. Lift the needle and sewing foot a. 4. Pull the fabric to the rear, such that the yarn being held by the finger of the stitch plate e is released.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 33 Tips and Tricks Using pins Always insert pins to the left of the sewing foot a (Fig. 103). The pins are thus not in the cutting area of the blade i s and they can be easily removed afterwards. Attention! Appliance Damage! NEVER sew over pins or other hard materials. The blade i s could be irreparably damaged! Fig.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 34 Maintenance and Cleaning Attention! Before cleaning or carrying out maintenance, ALWAYS remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Cleaning and lubrication • Regularly remove dust and lint from the looper and blade areas. For this you can use the supplied brush (Fig. 108). • Wipe the machine with a lightly moistened cloth. Fig.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 35 Storage IMPORTANT: ALWAYS remove the plug from the mains power socket before putting the machine into storage. This prevents an unintentional starting of the appliance, and thus the risk of injury, as well as an overheating of it! When the machine is not in use, always cover it with the hood. This will protect the machine from dust. Store the machine at a clean and dry location. Always transport the machine with the fold-out handle.
IB_64780_SON 90 A1_LB6 08.03.2011 17:22 Uhr Seite 36 Troubleshooting Problem Cause Solution • Needles are bent, blunt or damaged at the points. • Fit new needles. • Needles are not correctly inserted. • Insert the needles into the retainers correctly. • You have pulled the material too heftily. • Carefully guide the material with both hands. • Yarn has not been correctly threaded. • Thread the yarn correctly. • Thread tension is too high. • Reduce the thread tension.
