cpennveiDUC fashion machine 1036 DELUXE FREE-ARM, STRETCH STITCH SEWING MACHINE
enjoy carefree sewing! CONGRATULATIONS . . . You are about to discover the pleasure of sewing with your new Creative Touch* sewing machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing pro ject . . . but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all the capabilities of your machine.
Sew like a pro with your CPffl71\€ TOUCH' Fashion machine 103Ó Overedge stretch stitch on a stretchy knit Delicate zig-zag stitching on satin Flawless topstitching on leatherlike fabric Featherstitching on spandex
CONTENTS Page 1. Getting to Know Your Machine....................................................................................................... 1 Principal Parts and What They Do............................................................................................... 1 Accessories.................................................................................................................................... 2 2. Getting Ready to Sew .............................................................
1- getting to know your machine ---------------\ " " \ \ \ 1 \ —y №\ 24 25 q J ------------- —------------
principal parts and what they do 1. Console Cover protects against dust, is hinged for easy access to controls. 2. Stitch-balance Dial adjusts balance of Flexi-Stitch patterns and buttonholes. 3. Pattern-selector Release Lever unlocks the pattern selecter. 4. Pattern Selector controls pointer on stitch panel. 5. Stitch-width Dial controls zig-zag stitch width. 18. Zig-zag Plate secured by magnets. Guidelines on right and left sides help you keep seams straight. 19.
accessories J nn The accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily. 1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 181551) 2. Needles . .. • Style 2020 for all-purpose sewing. jVVV • Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic. • Style 2025t for twin-needle decorative stitching. 3. Zig-Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Plate, on your machine when delivered. Use them for aiternating between straight and zig-zag stitching as well as utility zig-zag sewing.
. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the zig-zag foot to position and guide the hem. 9. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twin-needle stitching and two-thread topstitching. 10. Large Spool Holder on your machine when delivered. For use with medium and large spools of thread. 10 11. Small Spool Holder for use with small diameter tubes of thread. 12. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams. 12 13. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing machine. 13 14.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET Snap-on Presser Feet Most of the presser feet furnished with your machine snap on and off a common shank. 1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. 2. Raise presser foot. 3. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove. 4. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presser-foot pin. 5.
2. GETTING READY TO SEW CONNECTING MACHINE Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of amperes indicated at the right end of the machine, conform to your electrical power supply. • Push the machine plug into the machine socket. \"'"r / \II \ (V\ \\, .............................................. \ ... OFF A B Power and Light Switch • Connect the power-line plug to your electri cal outlet.
needles n J Style 2025 Twin-Needle style 2020 Regular Needle Style 2045 Ball Point Yellow Band Needle The needle you use should be straight and not bent to ensure perfect stitch formation and needle penetration through the fabric. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred \with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric \without being bent or defiected.
choosing needle and thread The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being stitched. The table be low is a practical guide to needle and thread selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
threading the machine THREADING 4. Thread take-up lever D by guiding thread • Raise take-up lever to its highest position by down over top of lever and then up into turning hand wheel toward you. Raise eyelet. presser foot to release the tension discs. 5. Lead thread from take-up lever down into 1. Lead thread from spool holder and snap it left channel and then into lower thread down into thread guidepost A. guides E and F. 2.
WINDING THE BOBBIN Winding Steps You will find a bobbin in place under the slide plate of your machine. (To open slide plate, simply draw it gently toward you.) If the bobbin runs out of thread during sewing, you can re wind it without removing it from the machine. The window in the slide plate lets you see bobbin-thread supply at a glance, to help avoid running out of thread in the middle of a seam. Preparation Steps 1.
changing the bobbin Removing Bobbin REMOVING THE BOBBIN Open Slide Plate and Move Bobbin Latch to Left Raise take-up iever to its highest position. 1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to left. 2. Remove bobbin by inserting fingernail un der rim of bobbin. Replacing Empty Bobbin Thread Slot _ MkS REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN 1. Slip bobbin (slot on top) into bobbin case. 2. Move bobbin latch to right (wind position). 3. Leave slide plate open until you have fin ished winding the bobbin.
Replacing a Wound Bobbin REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN Raise take-up lever to its highest position. 1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch all the way to the left. 2. Draw about an inch of thread from bobbin and place bobbin in case. 3. Pull thread into bobbin-case slot (point 1), draw it under flat spring and around to (or slightly past) point 2, leaving two or three inches of free thread. (Leave slide plate open.
3. TIPS ON STRAIGHT STITCHING adjusting machine to your fabric Straight-Stitch Settings SETTING CONTROLS 1. Set pattern-selector release lever by turn ing it clocktA/ise until it locks in place. If lever fails to lock, turn hand tA/heel slightly and reset lever. NOTE: Do not attempt to turn patternseiector reiease iever after it is iocked in piece, it repositions itseif when you start the machine or turn the hand wheei. 2. Turn pattern-selector dial until stitch-panel pointer is above | setting. 3.
Regulating Needle-thread Tension REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION The tension dial regulates the degree of ten sion on your needle thread and lets you select just the right setting for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings. Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams. To find the correct tension setting, make a test on a sample of your fabric.
Pin Placement When Seam Guide is Used sewing a seam PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time saver and can be used when you sew easy-to-handie fabric. Use fine pins and piace them so that: • They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line. • They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot. Never place pins on the under side of the fabric in contact with the feed. • Sew, pulling pins out of fabric as you stitch. We do not recommend sewing over pins.
Draw Threads Under Foot STARTING THE SEAM Always test-stitch seams on fabric scraps before stitching your garment. This will ena ble you to get the feel of handling the fabric. Aiso, it wiii indicate whether tension, pres sure, stitch length, needle and thread are cor rect. To avoid tangled threads on the underside of the fabric, it is important to start and end seams carefuily.
KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT Mil \ Using Guidelines Stitching Line- 543 ^ 3456 :■ \ t. -1/2" ■3/4" ■ 5/8 ” To keep the seann straight, use one of the nunnbered guidelines on the plate. The num bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8-inch seam, for example, line up your fabric with the num ber 5 guideline.
CURVED SEAMS 1. Use a short stitch for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches to the inch for straight seams, select 15 to 20 stitches per inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric. 2. If you use the seam guide, available for separate purchase at your Singer Sewing Center, attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide. REINFORCING END OF SEAM 1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.) 2.
4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHING how stitches are produced All stitches are produced by discs. Fashion Stitch discs control the side-to-side move ment of the needle; Flexi-Stitch discs control both the side-to-side movement of the needle and the back-and-forth movement of the feed. Your sewing machine has eleven built-in discs. These discs can produce five Fashion Stitch patterns (white), and five Flexi-Stitch patterns (yellow), and a straight stitch.
SETTING PATTERN SELECTOR Turn pattern-selector release lever toward you until it locks in place. Then turn pattern selector until pointer on panel is above desired stitch. Pattern Selector Pattern-Selector Release Lever NOTE: If pattern-selector release lever fails to lock, turn hand wheel slightly toward you and reset lever. Do not attempt to turn the release lever after It is locked in place. It will reposition itself when you start the machine or turn hand wheel.
ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH To produce a zig-zag stitch, turn the stitchwidth dial to any setting between 1 and 5. The higher the number, the wider the stitch. ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION Adjusting Width Generally, zig-zag stitching at open stitch lengths requires the same needle-thread ten sion as straight stitching. Flexi-Stitch patterns, however, may require more needle-thread tension than Fashion Stitch patterns.
adjusting stitch balance when using patterns Flexi-Stitch When using a Flexi-Stitch pattern, you may need to adjust the stitch-balance dial to cor rect the appearance of the stitch. Before yoju move the stitch-balance dial from its neutral position, make a test sample. If ad justment is required, stitch slowly and move the stitch-balance dial as you sew.
5. TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING By using a twin needle, you can produce simultaneously two parallel, closely spaced lines of straight or zig-zag stitching. Effective for decoration, twin-needle stitching is not recommended for seams or for use on knits. Soft fabrics should be sewn with a paper or fabric backing. preparation 1. Clip detachable spool pin to guide post as shown. 2. Thread machine as instructed on page 8, making certain thread passes on right side of tension disc. 3.
twin-needle stitch chart \ To produce patterns at right, use settings, discs and accessories shown below. c %I tSew this stitch with a paper backing. I ‘V Stitch Pattern Stitch Width'*"*’ 5 1 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.
6. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES buttons • Stitch: Plain Zig-Zag j • Stitch Width: 0 and 4 • Needle Position: • Feed Cover Plate (See page 4 for attaching) • Button Foot The space between the holes in the button de termines stitch-width settings. The 0 setting must always be used to position the button and to fasten stitching. For buttons with stand ard hole spacing, settings 0 and 4 are usually satisfactory.
buttonholes Finished Edge of Garment Most fabrics are suitable for machinestitched buttonholes. If the suitability of the fabric is in doubt, make a test buttonhole in a sample of your fabric, being sure to duplicate the thicknesses of your garment, and include an interfacing. The built-in buttonhole system of your machine allows you to stitch a complete but tonhole up to IV2 inches in a single step.
ONE-STEP BUTTONHOLES The One-step Buttonhole Foot allows you to stitch complete buttonholes for buttons up to 1-1/2 inches in a single step. NOTE; See page 28 in reference to stitching complete buttonholes and stitch balance. Red symbols indicate buttonhole settings • Stitch; Buttonhole || • Stitch Width: Red | (approximately! to 2) • Needle Position: J, • Stitch Length: Within stitch Pattern • Stitch Balance: Neutral • Speed: MIN 3 • Zig-Zag Plate • One-step Buttonhole Foot Preparation 1.
Procedure • Place the button you intend to use on the button carrier of the one-step buttonhole foot and slide clamp toward back to secure button. For use without a button, set the clamp with the gauge lines on the carrier. See page 29. Place Button on Carrier • Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine. « Place garment between foot and underpiate. Align buttonhole guideline markings with the red guidelines on the foot. Lower foot. • Press buttonhole lever toward you.
Stitching Complete Buttonholes Whenever you make a buttonhole, be sure to stitch it all the way around (to complete stitch ing cycle) before re-setting the buttonhole lever for a new start. If you make a false start when sewing a button hole in your garment, simply remove the work and complete the buttonhole stitching on scrap fabric. Adjusting Stitch Length BUTTONHOLE ADJUSTMENTS Adj'usting Stitch Length Buttonhole stitch length is regulated by the stitch-length dial.
Adjusting Width of Button Opening The width of the button opening is regulated by the stitch-width dial. A • To make button opening wider, turn dial very slightly toward the 1 setting. • To make button opening narrower, turn dial very slightly toward the 2 setting. Adjusting Width of Button Opening Adjusting Length of Button Opening Gauge Lines The length of the button opening in one-step buttonholes is controlled by the button-carrier clamp.
CORDED BUTTONHOLES Corded or raised buttonholes are made by stitching over a filler cord. Embroidery or crochet threads make good filler cords, but double strands of sewing thread or a sew-off chain of needle and bobbin thread may also be used. Inserting Cord in One-step Buttonhole Foot step 2 • Raise foot. Hold filler cord in both hands, and insert it between foot and underplate, from left side (the side opposite underplate tab). Insert one end of the filler cord in the right notch in front of foot.
7. SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY construction details ZIPPERS At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing Center, you wiil find many different kinds of zippers, one of which wili be just right for whatever you wish to sew. How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the location of the zipper. The zipper package wili contain easy-to-foliow instruc tions. And, if you use the zipper foot, you wiii find it easy to form an even iine of stitching close to the zipper.
BLINDSTITCH HEMS • Stitch: Blindstitch • Stitch Width: 2 to 5 (depending on fabric) • • • • • Needle Position: or JL Stitch Length: 6 to 12 Zig-Zag Plate Zig-Zag Foot Blindstitch Hem Guide Blindstitching takes a little practice, so make a test sample first. Raise take-up lever to its highest position. 1. Raise presser foot, loosen presser-foot screw, and slip blindstitch hem guide be tween screw and shank of zig-zag foot. Make sure underside of guide clears slide plate and front of foot.
DARTS Darts can be made in the usual way on your sewing machine. That is, you begin stitching at the wide end of the dart, stitch to the point, and then fasten the two thread ends. However, thanks to the push-button bobbin, you can avoid the problem of fastening the thread ends by making a “continuous-thread” dart and stitching in the opposite direction. This method is particularly useful for darts in sheer fabrics, where transparency requires a neat, clean finish.
sewing knit and stretch fabric When you sew stretch fabrics, double knits, tricot, jersey, and elastic, choose one of the stitch patterns that build stretch into the seam. A wide variety of stitches are available. See table below. Remember to use a bail-point needle in the machine when you attach elastic or sew knit or stretch fabric.
STARTING TO SEW USING A FLEXI-STITCH PATTERN When using a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the forwardreverse stitching direction is controlled by the pattern disc. For this reason, Flexi-Stitch pat terns cannot be reversed (back-tacked). To start sewing with a Flexi-Stitch pattern, draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine. Hold thread ends and posi tion needle in fabric with a light touch on the speed controller. Lower presser foot and hold thread ends at back of foot as you start to stitch.
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SEAM When you use the straight stretch stitch (pro duced with either Feather ( ) or Honeycomb ( ^ ) pattern at stitch width) to seam knit, stretch, and elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and strength are built in as the seam is being sewn. Because it is equally useful for closed or pressed-open seam con struction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain.
FAGOTING • stitch: Featherstitch ^ • Stitch Width: 5 • Needie Position: • Stitch Length: 6 to8 (in yeilowarea) • Speed: MIN • Zig-Zag Piate • Zig-Zag Foot The art of joining two pieces of fabric with an open, lacy decorative stitch is called fagoting. You can create this attractive trimming with the featherstitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire gar ment section.
Overedged Seam OVEREDGED SEAMS • • • • • • • • Stitch; Overedge Stretch ^ Stitch Width; 5 Needle Position; Stitch Length; 6 to 8 Stitch Balance; Equalized Speed; MIN Zig-Zag Plate Zig-Zag Foot Seams in knit and stretch fabrics can be joined and finished in one operation when you use the overedge stretch stitch. Procedure 1. Make a test sample before beginning gar ment construction to test machine settings. (See page 21 for adjusting stitch balance.
MOCK OVEREDGING • stitch: Overedge Stretch Stitch • Stitch Width; 5 • Needle Position: • Stitch Length: (in yellow area) • Stitch Balance: Equalized • Speed: MIN • Zig-Zag Plate • Zig-Zag Foot When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of fabric construction, a mock over edge finish can be applied. This finish is ap propriate for bulky knits, stretchy sweater knits, fine tricots, and fabrics that curl or fray.
handling special fabrics Many fabrics, because of their construction or finish, demand special attention in sewing. Techniques used in stitching and handling, and choice of machine accessories, will vary with the fabric. Let the table below guide your selection. Refer to page 34, for instructions on sewing knit and stretch fabrics. Thread usage information is tabulated on page 7.
FABRIC-HANDLING TABLE FABRIC SPECIAL HANDLING FINE KNITStricot, jersey Use narrow overedged, double stitched, or French whipped seams — Hold thread ends securely for a few stitches at start of seam — Support seams while stitching. See page 35.- Increase presser-foot pressure.
decorative touches SATIN STITCHING Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like surface, is useful for both practical and decorative work. The plain zig-zag stitch, for example, is suitable for applique when closed up to form a satin stitch. Other built-in Fashion Stitch patterns (as illustrated on page 18) can be sewn at satin-stitch length.
APPLIQUE Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture com bine equally well. A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most com monly used in appliqué work, but decorative stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you may vary stitch width to accom modate fabric weave or texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.
FREE’MOTION EMBROIDERY In free-motion embroidery, you control the direction and speed of fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop. Stitch length is determined by the speed at which the hoop is moved and zig-zag stitch width is varied by the direction of hoop movement. The hoop should be one designed for machine use.
TOPSTITCHING A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, hems, pockets, seams, etc. For a tailored look, use lines of regular straight stitching; sew them with buttonhole twist (or double strands of regular thread) for added emphasis. For decorative interest, use a zig zag stitch.
keeping up appearances DARNING Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes, knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater controi is needed, use an embroidery hoop designed for machine use.
MENDING REPLACING LINGERIE ELASTIC Many stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sewing. The multi-stitch zig-zag forms a firm, flexible bond that is ideal for repairing tears and replacing elastic. The straight stretch stitch provides for the repair and reinforcement of pressed-open seams. Bar tacks to reinforce points of strain are made with the plain zig zag stitch or the arrowhead stitch.
8. FREE-ARM SEWING Fabric handling, when sewing tubular and hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your machine to free-arm sewing. A few of the sewing jobs for which you will find the free arm particularly useful are shown on the following pages. You will dis cover many more for yourself. To convert your machine for free-arm sewing, simply press down on the corner of the Flip & Sew panel on sewing machine with heel of right hand.
SLEEVES Free-arm sewing takes the difficulty out of stitching a sleeve. The armhole rotates smoothly under the needle so that you can place stitching accurately. The extra control afforded by the free arm is especially helpful for topstitching flat-fell seams. Badges, emblems and insignia of all sizes and shapes can be attached to shirts and uniforms by slipping sleeve or hard-to-reach area over the sewing surface.
EDGE FINISHES The free-arm surface makes it easy to finish sleeves, pant legs and waistlines. These circular garment areas rotate smoothly around the sewing surface, giving you full visibility and control as you blindstitch hems, attach elastic, or topstitch cuffs.
DARNING AND MENDING Knees, elbows and other areas of wear in children’s clothes, sweaters, jackets and shorts become readily accessible for darning, mending or patching when the freearm surface is used. The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg areas, making it unnecessary to open seams or roll the garment. For darning, follow the instructions on page 46 and refer to page 47 for mending information.
9. CARING FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE cleaning the machine With a fine cord or multiple strands of thread, clean; • Thread-retainer spring CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, dis connect power-line plug from electrical supply. Open slide plate, remove bobbin (see pageio), and remove plate as instructed on page 4. Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few moments to clean it. How often you will need to clean the machine will depend on how often you use it.
changing the light bulb CAUTION: Before changing light bulb, make sure you have disconnected power-line plug from electrical outlet. When changing to a new bulb be sure to use a 15-watt bayonet base bulb only. REMOVING BULB Using thumb and forefinger of right hand, pull down on tab located under light lens to lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb. Press bulb up into the socket and at the same time turn it over in the direction shown to unlock bulb pin.
performance checklist Should you encounter a sewing problem, review the sewing operation you are per forming. If the problem persists, the following hints should help you correct it. If the machine does not start: make sure • Machine is connected to electrical supply. • Power and light switch is on. • Bobbin has not been wound too full. (Do not wind beyond outer ring on bobbin.) If too full, remove excess thread. If the needle bar moves but the stitch is not formed: make sure • Needle is straight.
10. SEWING AIDS special accessories for special jobs Sewing Aids have been designed to increase the versatility of your sewing machine and enable you to give your sewing that extra pro fessional touch. The ones described beiow are just a few of the compiete seiection avaiiable at your iocai Singer Sewing Center. Hemmer Foot No. 171145 Quilting Foot Narrow hems can be turned and stitched in a single operation if you use the hemmer foot.
your personal measurements This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. You will need the assistance of someone to help you to take the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure. The illustrations show where tape measure should be placed when taking each measurement. As a starting point, use a ribbon firmly but comfortably tied at the waist before taking measurements. inches (cm) 1. Bust — Fullest part — slightly higher in back ................................................
personal notes 57
INDEX Accessories............................................................ 2 Adjusting Machine to Fabric................................. 12 Appliqué .............................................................. 43 Blindstitch Hem Guide........................................... 3 Blindstitch Hems ................................................. 32 Bobbin .................................................. 2, 9, 10, 11 Raising Bobbin Thread.................................... 11 Removing Bobbin.........
Dear Customer: We recommend that for future reference you record the serial number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided. Refer to illustration at right for location of serial number on your machine. Serial No Serial No. «si. Enjoy Sewing! If you have any questions, please write to: The Singer Company Consumer Affairs Department 321 First Street Elizabeth, N.J. 07207 •A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Printed in U.S.A.
Make Your Sewing Easier, Faster and Professional Looking! RUFFLES NAR®\^ HEM CJJtLTING ■r 1’ ;5- r' Frilly ruffles, narrow hems, luxurious quilting, and evenly-spaced shirring can a that professional touch to your sewing projects... and you can make them quickly and easily on your sewing machine ... using only four of the many accessories available from your Singer Sewing Center.
