SINGER® PROFESSIONAL 5™ Overlock Workbook
Congratulations on the purchase of your new SINGER® PROFESSIONAL 5™ Overlock Machine! The SINGER PROFESSIONAL 5 (14T968DC) Overlock Machine is a time saving innovation that provides professional seams, seam finishes, and creative stitch capabilities. Sew one-of-kind projects with the special effects of decorative stitching, such as Flatlocking, Chainstitching and Rolled Hemming. The overlock works side by side with your conventional sewing machine and adds new creative possiblities to your sewing projects.
Table of Contents Chapter 1 Double Chain Stitch Chapter 2 Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow and wide) Chapter 3 Two-Thread Overedge (narrow and wide) Chapter 4 Three-Thread Overlock (narrow, wide, and wide with decorative threads) Chapter 5 Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide) Chapter 6 Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Chapter 7 Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Chapter 8 Four-Thread Safety Stitch Chapter 9 Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide Chapter 10 Five-T
Chapter 1: Double Chain Stitch
Double Chain Stitch This stitch is suitable for straight seams. It also can be used for a decorative chainstitch topstitching effect. The Middle Cover needle and the Chainstitch Looper are used. Decorative thread can be placed in the Chainstitch Looper, the needle, or in both to create various effects.
Needle: Set at:: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “D” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Spreader Not Engaged Lower Looper Unthreaded Chainstitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Knife Not Used Seam Guide Plate Inst
Double Chain Stitch Turn Auto Tension Dial to “D”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Place Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open looper cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it slightly towards you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper, the looper no longer moves when sewing.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a decorative thread 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button, as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Middle Cover Stitch Needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the Middle Cover Needle . 8.
Fuse a layer of fabric to a lightweight batting. Fuse a fabric backing to the other side of the batting, to create a quilted piece of fabric. Using a rinse-away fabric marking pen draw a design lines on the wrong side of the fabric. ntle soft ge Make radual g st. turns; ork be w s e v cur g makin . Avoid s e corn r sharp Lift the Presser Foot to the heightest position. Position the fabric right side down. Align the needle with one of the lines drawn. Lower the Presser Foot and sew.
When sewing the Double Chainstitch, it is necessary to have fabric under the needle. Avoid sewing off the fabric. Continue sewing, following the drawn marking. To remove fabric, gently turn handwheel to loosen threads. Turn fabric over to see the decorative stitching.
Chapter 2: Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow and wide)
Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) The Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock provides an elegant fine finish to lightweight fabrics. When using clear threads in conjunction with the Two-Thread stitch, the fabric appears to have an invisible edge. This gives a couture effect and looks beautiful on finer fabrics. The Two-Thread Stitch requires the lower looper thread and one overlock needle thread. The lower looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “D” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle (Blue) “B” Upper Looper Threaded Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Threaded Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Inst
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “D”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder toward clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread needs to wrap around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension discs. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Align two pieces of lightweight fabric, right sides together so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Press seam to one side.
Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (wide) The Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (wide) has the same set up as the TwoThread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider.
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. .
Chapter 3: Two-Thread Overedge (narrow and wide)
Two-Thread Overedge (narrow) This stitch is used as a lightweight seam finish or a lightweight seam. When creating a seam finish, less thread is used and the thread does not imprint on the right side of the fabric when pressed. The stitch can also used for seaming. The stitch creates less bulky seams, which is ideal for sheer or lace fabrics. The Two-Thread Overlock stitch requires the lower looper thread and one overlock needle thread. There are 2 different ways to set up for a Two-Thread Overlock stitch.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “E” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Threaded Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not In
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “E”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader, the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader Lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Join two pieces of medium weight fabric, right sides together with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. Finsh the edges of both fabric pieces by aligning the fabric edge so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Press seam allowance to one side.
Two-Thread Overedge (wide) The Two-Thread Overedge (wide) is a good choice when sewing linens and wools. The Two-Thread Overedge (wide) has the same set up as the Two-Thread Overedge (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “E” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Engage Looper and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Th
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Align a second piece of medium wieght fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Place the two fabrics, right sides together. Using a conventional sewing machine, sew a straight stitch with a ⅝ inch seam. Press the seam open.
Chapter 4: Three-Thread Overlock (narrow, wide, and wide with decorative threads)
Three-Thread Overlock (narrow) The Three-Thread Overlock Stitch is the most commonly used stitch because of its versatility. It provides a wonderful professional seam finish to woven fabrics. It is beneficial in preventing loosely woven fabrics from unraveling. In addition, the Three-Thread Overlock Stitch offers unlimited decorative capabilities. It is recommended for finishing seams but not reinforcing the seam. Use the conventional sewing machine’s straight stitch to reinforce the seam.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “A” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Unthreaded Engaged Not Ins
The Three-Thread Overlock makes a great edge finish to a garment’s facing.
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader, the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as indicated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader Lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Align a second piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Place the two fabrics, right sides together. Using a conventional sewing machine, sew a straight stitch with a ⅝ inch seam. Press the seam open.
Three-Thread Overlock (wide) The Three-Thread Overedge (wide) has the same set up as the Three-Thread Overedge (narrow) Stitch. The only exceptions are the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider. The other exception is the Auto Tension Dial is turned to “B”.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plat
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide. 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the left needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “B”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Three-Thread Overedge (wide with decorative thread) Using decorative threads can duplicate the look of fine braids and bindings often found only in ready-to-wear. It is easy to embellish sewing projects with decorative thread. Threads such as texturized nylon thread, crochet thread, pearl cotton, yarn and more easily slide through the eye of the looper. Select soft, flexible threads for best results.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plat
Thread Upper Looper with decorative thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide. 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9. 7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate.
Thread Lower Looper with decorative overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5.
6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , ,and . 10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D).
Thread Overedge Left needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align double-sided quilted fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 5: Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide)
Three-Thread Flatlock Narrow The Flatlock Stitch is used decoratively to achieve the look of applied trim on a garment, craft or home decorator projects. Special decorative threads are used for a textured and dramatic embellishment effect. The Flatlock Stitch can also be used to serge non-bulky seams. The Flatlock Stitch is sewn with one needle and the upper and lower loopers. Both sides of the Flatlocking Stitch are considered decorative.
Needle: Set Up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “F” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plate N
The Flatlock stitch, with fabric’s right sides together, form a ladder stitch. A ribbon can then be woven by hand in and out of the stitches. The ladder stitch is ideal for joining laces together, as seen in heirloom sewing. Another idea for the ladder stitch is to use decorative thread through the needle to form a bold embellishment to projects.
Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow) page 4
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “F”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife.The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot.
Fold T-shirt interlock fabric wrong sides together lengthwise. Align the fabric so that the fabric’s fold is not being trimmed by the knife. Sew. Gently pull the fabric flat and press. Hint: If the fabric is not laying flat, align the fabric farther to the left of the knife.
Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) The Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) has the same set up as the Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle, the stitch becomes wider.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “F” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengage Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Engaged
Left Overedge Needle Thread Upper Looper Thread Right Overedge Needle Thread Lower Looper Thread Decorative Ladder Effect (wide) Fabric Right Sides Together Decorative Loop Effect (wide) Fabric Wrong Sides Together Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) page 3
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the left needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Fold sweatshirt fabric wrong sides together, lengthwise. Align the fabric so that the fabric’s fold is not being trimmed by the knife. Sew. Gently pull the fabric flat and press. Hint: If the fabric is not laying flat, align the fabric farther to the left of the knife.
Chapter 6: Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch This stitch stretches with the fabric, the seam will not break when the fabric is stretched. It is ideal for super-stretch knits like those used on swimwear or athlete clothing. This stitch uses two needles and one looper.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “G” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Not Threaded “L” Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Use Knife Guide Se
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “G”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align two pieces of fabric, right sides together so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric’s edges. Sew.
