Chapter 7: Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch The Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch is stronger than the Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch. The additional thread provides added strength to the seam and is good choice for knits as well as wovens. This stitch works well when applying ribbing to a garment. Ribbing is often seen on cuffs, collars and waistbands of active wear. This stitch requires two needle threads and two looper threads.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “A” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Not Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “L” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Engaged Not Installed Use Knife Guide S
Sweatshirt sample Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch page 3
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch page 9 .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread. Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread towards the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Fold ribbing lengthwise. Place ribbing on top of fleece. Align the fabric so that the knife just slightly trims both the ribbing and fleece fabric edges. Sew, stretching the ribbing as needed.
Chapter 8: Four-Thread Safety Stitch
Four-Thread Safety Stitch This stitch is an alternative to the Five-Thread Safety Stitch. It offers the same type of Two-Thread Chainstitch. However the Three-Thread Overlock is now replaced by a Two-Thread Overedge finish. The Four-Thread Safety Stitch is appropriately used when sewing a medium weight woven fabric. Because there is one less thread being used, the stitch is less bulky. However, it is still strong enough not to require straight stitch reinforcement from a conventional sewing machine.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) “I” Not Threaded Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate “L” Engaged Not Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch Lengt
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “I”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper, causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide .
2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button, as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11.
6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper. Position the thread into the V cutout (B) on the threader. Firmly hold the thread tail with your left hand and pull threader lever (C) up into place (D). Gently pull 5-6” of thread to the back of the machine. “V” cutout Threader lever Thread Right Overedge with regular overlock thread. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Middle Cover Stitch with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Place two pieces of broadcloth right sides together. Align the fabric so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 9: Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide
Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide This stitch is a combination of a Two-Thread Chainstitch and a Three-Thread Overlock Stitch. It is suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and terrycloth. Using this strong safety stitch eliminates the need to reinforce the seam with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. The Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Dial makes it simple to sew on all weights of fabrics. The Five-Thread Safety Stitch can have a width of 2.
Needles: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Threaded Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Blue) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Not Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “L” Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch L
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “B”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread, firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the foward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Middle Cover stitch needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Place two pieces of home decorative fabric, right sides together. Align the fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 10: Five-Thread Safety Stitch Narrow
Five-Thread Safety Stitch Narrow This stitch is a combination of a Two-Thread Chainstitch and a Three-Thread Overlock Stitch. It is suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and terrycloth. Using this strong and stable safety stitch eliminates the need to reinforce the seam with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. The Pressure Adjusting Dial makes it simple to sew on all weights of fabrics. The Five-Thread Safety Stitch can have a width of 2.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” “A” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife “L” Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Use Knife Cover Seam W
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is usually used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regualar overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide .
5. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 6. Thread the eye of the Right Overedge Needle . Thread Middle Cover stitch needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and .
6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot. Lower foot and sew.
Place two pieces of terrycloth right sides together. Align the fabric so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 11: Cover Hem (Cover Stitch) Narrow
Cover Hem Narrow This professional Cover Hem is a necessary requirement for today’s sewing. The stitch is often seen in ready-to-wear garments. Two needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on the underneath side. Depending on which needle position is selected, the width can be 5.6mm wide or 2.8mm wide.
Needles: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “K” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch “E” Needle Not Threaded Overedge Left “A” Needle Not Threaded Overedge Right “B” Needle Not Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Spreader Lower Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “C” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Non-working Position Installed Seam Width D
Cover Hem Narrow Turn Auto Tension Dial to “K”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2.5”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open looper cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper, the looper no longer moves when sewing. It is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Middle Cover needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the forward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 1” hem into a knit fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Use markings on cover for positioning and guiding fabric. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Cover Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing.
Chapter 12: Cover Hem (Cover Stitch) Wide
Cover Hem Wide This professional Cover Hem stitch is a necessary requirement for today’s sewing. The stitch is often seen in ready-to-wear garments. Two needles create parallel rows of top stitching and one looper sew an edge finish on the underneath side. Depending on which needle position is selected the width can be 5.6mm wide or 2.8 mm wide.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) “H” Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Spreader Lower Looper Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Threaded “C” Non-working Position Installed Seam Width Dial “N”
Double Chain Stitch Turn Auto Tension Dial to “H”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper the looper no longer moves when sewing, it is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Right Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the front slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slots of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 1” hem into a knit fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Cover Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing. Sew off onto a scrap fabric.
Chapter 13: Triple Cover Hem Stitch
Triple Cover Hem This innovative stitch provides a very wide 5.6 mm professional and creative triple topstitch to sewing projects. Three needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on the underneath side. This is ideal for heavier fabrics traditionally used in home decorating. It also adds a unique accent for garment construction. In addition to sewing on woven fabrics, the Triple Cover Hem makes a beautiful topstitch and a strong hem on stretch fabrics.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “J” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Threaded Upper Looper Spreader Lower Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “C” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Non-working Position Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch Length Dial “N” Presser Foot Pressure “N” Differential Feed Dial
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “J”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper the looper no longer moves when sewing. It is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Right Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Middle Cover needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the forward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 3” hem into a woven home decorator fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Triple Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing.
Chapter 14: Three-Thread Rolled Hem
Three-Thread Rolled Hem The Rolled Hem Stitch is used to finish edges of scarves, ruffles, table linens, and some garments. It is suitable for lightweight to medium weight fabrics, such as sheers, silkies and broadcloth. Beautiful pintucks can be achieved with the rolled hem. They can enhance a yoke, heirloom sewing, wearable art and even home decorating projects. Note: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the Right Overedge needle all other needles must be removed.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “C” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Not Threaded “L” Engaged Not Installed Use Knife Cover Seam Width Di
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “C”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “1”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slots of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot. Lower foot and sew.
Align a piece of lightweight fabric so that the fabric’s edge is being slightly trimmed by the knife. Sew.
Chapter 15: Additional Presser Feet
BLIND HEM FOOT The Blind Hem Foot is used for hemming skirts, pants and other sewing projects in one easy operation. It is recommended for use on stretch or textured fabrics.
CORDING FOOT The Cording Foot is used for sewing piping (cording) between two layers of fabric in one easy operation.
ELASTIC FOOT The Elastic Foot is used for inserting elastic into a seam. It can be used for swimwear, lingerie and other sewing projects.
BEADING FOOT The Beading Foot is used for sewing on beads, sequins, pearls and thick cord.
TAPING FOOT The Taping Foot is used for inserting a tape into seams that will stretch easily. Inserting the tape will stabilize the seam.
SHIRRING FOOT The Shirring Foot is used for shirring or gathering. Use it on home decorating accessories or clothing. This foot provides best results when used with lightweight and sheer fabrics.
