SINGER SIANT-O-MAT/C
Instructions for using- SINGER SIANT-O-MAT/C
The SLAAiT~0~MAT/C-the greatest sewing machine ever built! *A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
The S X H G E R Slj^Aír-O-MAr/C the greatest sewing machine ever built.. . From the moment you see the new slant-o-mat/c, you’ll know it’s excitingly different. You’ll marvel at its automatic sewing... its al most unbelievable ease of operation ... the remarkable services it performs. You’ll delight in its sure, beautiful stitching. The only auto matic zigzag machine for home use made entirely in America, it outsews all other machines in both straight and fancy stitching.
ELEVATOR TYPE multi-purpose calibrated throat plate, lever operated, simplifies darning. NEW NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two regular needles —same or different sizes for exciting twin needle stitching. HINGED face plate swings open for easy cleaning. ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed. SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitch length en sures perfect satin stitching. NEW ADJUSTABLE HINGED zipper and cord ing foot. PERFECT Straight Stitching. NEW SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT. BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area.
SINGER SERVICE Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable singer* Service close at hand, singer is interested in helping you keep your singer Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should always call your singer center if your machine ever requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER CENTER Can you obtain the services of a trained singer repair man and warranted singer* parts.
FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART TYPES OF FABRICS Filmy materials comparable to Net, Marquisette, Chiffon, Silk and Chiffon Velvets, Voiles, Ninon Sheer materials comparable to Lawn, Dimity, Synthetic Sheers, Paper Taffetas, Pure Silks, Gossamer Silks, Silk or Synthetic Tricots, Synthetic Velvets, Satins THREAD SIZES NEEDLE SIZES 50 Embroidery 100 Cotton Synthetic Thread 50 Embroidery 80 to 100 Cotton MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS FOR STRAIGHT SEWING INSIDE SEAMS TOP STITCHING 9 15 to 20
NEEDLES AND THREAD This machine uses a 15 x 1 needle. Si2es 9, llj 14, 16 and 18. I \ 'v i mk m p i PI mn t№^ 1 i ^'1 For perfect stitching, select correct needle and thread to correspond with fabric according to table on page 5. Be sure to use like threads for both needle and bobbin. 9 iSS» SSSKWiiSSWii NEEDLE INSERTION Raise the needle bar to highest point by turn ing the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw.
UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread on spool pin and lead through threading points shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw sufficient thread through eye of needle with which to start sewing.
s WIND THE BOBBIN Loosen Stop motion screw with right hand. Raise bobbin winder and position bobbin on spindle. Press winder against hand wheel.
WIND THE BOBBIN (Confd.) Hold thread end to start winding. Activate machine. I-...,. jlllll ■'■••v.-Wiv Place thread on spool pin and lead between bobbin winder tension discs. Thread through hole in left side of bobbin as shown. Full bobbin will automatically release. Tighten stop motion screw.
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n V THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE ( Hold bobbin so that thread leads off, in direGtion shown. Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot and under spring. ^ 'J 1 it- i Si \ WSSM«hy«Wi«
12 PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 401 STITCH CHART STITCH SELECTOR TAKE-UP LEVER NEEDLE THREAD TENSION SPECIAL DISC RED LEVER HAND WHEEL BOBBIN WINDER STITCH REGULATOR THROAT PLATE SLIDE PLATE THROAT PLATE POSITIONING LEVER
13 STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR TO RELEASE Numerals on the indicator represent the number of stitches per inch. The upper indented area of the represents **fine'' stitch lengths above 20. indicator The lower indented area of the indicator allows the #6 stitch length setting to be “locked’’ in place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers of heavy fabric. REVERSE To set stitch length: Release pointer by turning thumb nut to the left, as shown. Position lever for desired stitch length.
14 RED LEVER T I A Red Lever setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching. Numerals indicate five positions, but intermediate settings may also be used. To position, depress lever and slide it left or right to desired setting.
15 STITCH SELECTOR Set Red Lever at 3 ? All settings on the left of the plate are controlled by the outer knob. Push (using right hand)—^seleet desired setting and release. All settings on the right of the plate are controlled by the inner knob. Pull (using left hand)—select desired setting and release. Do not make selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric. 1. PUSH 2. SELEGT (A THRU J) 3.
16 THROAT PLATE POSITIONS -•>• ' -i< --V. ;, // i^i> /' '|S2^ Throat plate in ''Down’' position for general sewing. ^a' Throat plate in "Up” position for darning, embroidering and button sewing.
17 THROAT PLATE REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT Throat plate in "Unlock” position for removaPand replacement. TAKE-UP LEVER MUST BE IN LOWEST POSITION I V Raise pressler bar. Turn hand wheel to drop take-up lever to its lowest point. Set throat plate lever to "'Unlock’’ position. This preparation applies to both removal and replacement. Remove throat plate by sliding it back. Replace throat plate by sliding it on from the rear. Lock in position. Presser foot need not be removed for this operation.
18 STRAIGHT STITCHING AK3 r-A SET SELECTOR AT A K. RK) LEVER AT 3-K) LOCATE STITCHING IN CENTRAL POSITION. GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT. Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching. STRAÍGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot where fabric and sewing procedure require close control ...
19 STRAIGHT STITCHING SECONDARY POSITIONS KI Ii SET SELECTOR AT A K. RED LEVER AT 1, 2, 4 OR 5. GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT. Do not make red lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric. To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the right or left of center. Red Lever settings 1 and 2 locate stitching to the left. Settings 4 and 5 place it to the right. Intermediate settings may also be us^d.
20 PREPARE TO SEW Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings up bobbin thread. Pull end pf bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under presser foot.
21 SEWING A SEAM i V. - Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from edge and lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse. 1.1 II I'li 5 W' V--U III i,,...........,|.|;| .^ ••hA'K-■-.■•..*••/»,.. Back stitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam. Raise stitch regulator.
22 ■ i W# Im i»*- <•, ] Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching jposition. With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.
23 GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc., require support while being stitched. For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the seam by holding the fabric in front and in back of the presser foot as illustrated.
24 PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward. To increase pressure, turn screw downward. Increase Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it is being stitched. Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results when pressure is correctly regulated. Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.
25 NEEDLE THREAD TENSION STRAIGHT STITCHING i■ Needle thread tension too tight — correct by setting dial to lower number. ,fca Needle thread tension too loose -— correct by setting dial to higher number. A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are dr^n equally into fiibric.
26 BOBBIN THREAD TENSION STRAIGHT STITCHING Bobbin thread tension too tight—correct by turning screw counterclockwise. Bobbin thread tension too loose—correct by turning screw clockwise. lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.
27 ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE. GENERAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT. SPECIAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT.
28 STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING The area of the stitch regulator with its inclined surface provides a means of gradually shortening the stitch length. As the knob is turned, the pointer rides up the incline until a closed satin stitch is obtained. The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric. It is advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the Special Purpose Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.
29 SATIN STITCH TENSfON ADJUSTMENT Satin stitching requires a lighter needle thread tension than straight stitching or open designs. The wider the satin stitching the lighter the tension required. Wide satin stitching. Red Lever at 5, requires the least amount of tension. For narrower satin stitching slightly more tension should be used. o'r >'V I V ' ' '' To determine correct tension setting, a test sample should be made on self fabric using the Special Purpose Foot.
30 PRIMARY PATTERNS See pages 14 and 15 for opera^ Lever and Selector. Special SELECTOR SETTINGS L THROUGH SPECIAL CONTROL PRIMARY PATTERNS. SELECTOR SETTING B PLACES STITCHING IN CENTRAL NEEDLE POSITION. RED LEVER CONTROLS WIDTH OF PRIMARY PATTERNS. Do not make selector or red lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
31 Pmm/kRY PATTERNS SPÈCIAL DISCS These five interchangeable Special Discs, classified as Primary Patterns, are in cluded with the machine. Each produces an individual design. Circled numbers (for example ) in this book indicate Special Disc numbers.
32 PRIMARY PATTERNS REPLACEMENT OF SPECIAL DISCS Ki- 1« .’'N x|„ I' wl. |. 'I'-' 'tli I I , \\ f \ 'I Jl' W r :J\ .' 'i■; To replace any of these discs, move right hand pointer of Selector off Special. Raise the Stitch chart at top of the machine. Remove disc and place another disc onto spindle, pushing downward until disc snaps in place. Set right hand pointer on Special to engage the disc.
33 PRIMARY PATTERNS RED LEVER CONTROL OF WIDTH The width* of Pririiary Patterns is controlled by the Red Lever. Settings range from a\ maximum 6f 5 to a minimum of 2.
34 PRIMARY PATTERNS NEEDLE POSITIONS Selector setting of B places stitching in central needle position. Selector settings A and C place the stitching in left and right needle positions at widths less than 5 Special Special B Special Selector setting B is preferred. Settings A and C are only used when special placement of stitching is desired. For example: buttonholes, button sew ing, blind stitching.
35 COMBINATION PATTERNS AND VARIATIONS T JL3 J L2 A great variety of additional stitch patterns can be created by combining any left hand Selector setting from D through J with any right hand Selector setting from L through Special. A Red Lever setting of 3 results in a Combination Pattern. Settings of 2 and 4 produce Variations.
36 TWO NEEDLES The needle clamp accommodates two 15 x 1 needles, generally of the same size. However, where special effects are desired, needles of dif ferent sizes may be used together, with corre sponding threads. Loosen the thumb screw and insert the additional needle from the right. (See page 6 for procedure.
37 TWO NEEDLES UPPER THREADING J Use size 50 mercetized cotton thread. Thread as for sin^e needle (see page 7). Be sure that threads are separated by the center tension Hisc. Carry only one thread through the last guide before the needle.
38 TWO NEEDLES STRAIGHT STITCHING A K 2 SELECTOR SETTING: A K. RED LEVER-i 2 ONLY.
39 TWO NEEDLES PRIMARY PATTERNS Special SELECTOR SETTING: A - L THROUGH SPECIAL. RED LEVER: 2 OR 3 MAXIMUM. GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE.
40 SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT BUTTONHOLES This light, flexible foot is designed for satin stitch ing. It provides maximum visibility and maneuver ability ’while allowing closely spaced zigzag stitches to feed freely. It is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitch ing in buttonholes, monograms, motifs and ap plique^ work. The eyelet on the left side of the foot accom modates a filler cord.
41 BUTTONHOLES MARKING LINES LENGTH OF CUTTING SPACE BAR TACKS AND SIDE STITCHING The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by the width and thickness of the button. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus Vs inch for bar tacks. Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double fold, duplicating a facing, and include interfacing if this has been used.
42 BUTTONHOLES Stitching Procedure. Set Selector and Red Lever. Place work under the needle, aligning the center marking of buttonhole with center score line of foot. To form side stitching, turn hand wheel toward you so the needle enters fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot, pivot work oh needle. Lower foot. Take one stitch without changing Red Lever setting, bringing work to point C.
43 BUTTONHOLES Raised or Corded Buttonholes. Both #8 pearl cotton and buttonhole twist make suitable filler cords for raised buttonholes. Place the spool of filler cord on the second spool pin. Carry the cord through the first thread guide, straight down between the center and back tension discs, into the large thread guide and then through the eyelet on the Special Purpose Foot. Draw the cord under and in back of the foot and proceed as for regular buttonholes.
44 APPLIQUE Applique adds beauty and interest to wearing apparel, linens and fabric furnishings. Either contrasting or self fabric may be used effectively. The most versatile stitch in appliqueing is a closely set zigzag stitch (Primary Pattern BL). The width of this stitch may be varied to accommodate weaves and textures of fabrics. Combination Patterns and Variations present many interesting ways to applique with deco rative stitching.
45 APPLIQUE Method #2. Set Selector and Red Lever to AK3 for straight stitching. Outline the entire design with a short stitch. Trim the raw edges down to the Stitching. Set Selector and Red Lever to the stitch pattern desired, and overedge the design with this stitch ing. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which re quires no additional trimming. Corded Applique. The Special Purpose Root, which provides for a filler cord, is perfeet for corded applique work.
46 MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS Any of the many stitch patterns are perfect for monograms and motifs. Select a design from the many transfer pat terns available or sketch one to suit your purpose. Some fabrics may require a backing of lawn or organdy. Position the design on the right side of the material. Trim backing away when stitching is completed, if necessary. To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pat tern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the desired point in the design is reached.
47 SEAMING SHEERS SELECTOR: B L RED LEVER: 2 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT STITCH LENGTH: FINE (ABOVE 25) A dainty hair-line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and yokes. Seam Allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated. Both heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 43 for threading). Follow the seam outline covering the cord. Cut away seam allowance close to line of stitching.
48 COUCHING Novel effects are ol:)tained by couching gimp, yarn or braid with stftch patterns. Spaced patterns are the most appropriate as they allow the decorg^tive cords to show as part of the design. The Special Purpose Foot is ideally suited to this work. LACE EDGING AND INSERTION Delicate and dural^le zigzag stitching is espe cially appropriate fqr the application of lace edgings and insertiotis. Many decorative sfitch patterns can be used effectively serving as both finish and trim.
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49 BUTTON SEWING FOOT. This short, open foot ac commodates any size sewthrough button, and holds it securely for stitching. The groove in the foot allows for insertion of a machine needle, over which a thread shank may be formed. SELECTOR: AL RED LEVER: 1 AND 4 THROAT PLATE: RAISED GENERAL PURPOSE BUTTON SEWING FOOT The space between the holes in the button determines the Red Lever settings. Numbers one and four generally apply to standard buttons.
50 BUTTON SEWING FOOT Set Red Lever at 4. The needle should then enter into the right hole of the button. Take approximately six zigzag stitches in this position. End on the left side. To fasten stitching, adjust to number one Red Lever setting and take approximately three stitches. THREAD SHANK In order to form a shank, stitching is done over a regular machine needle. Position button and lower button foot. Place needle in the groove of the foot so the point enters the hole.
51 GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT SEAMS LINGERIE SEAMS Dainty lingerie seams are made durable and rip-proof with zigzag stitching (BLlVi ). After straight stitching the fitted seam on the wrong side, press both seam allowances in the same direction. From the right side, top stitch with a fine zigzag setting, letting the needle ehter the seam line and then the seam thickness.
52 SEAMS FLAT FELLED SEAMS KNIT FABRIC SEAMS Zigzag stitching gives strength and durability to flat felled seams. Form the seam to the right side of the fabric, taking full seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch (BL 3). Press the seam open, then fold and press the two edges together, keeping the right side of the zigzag stitch uppermost. Trim away half the under seam edge. Fold the Upper seam edge evenly over the trimmed seam, and top stitch.
53 SEAM FINISHES Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish where fabrics have a tendency to ravel. The zigzag stitch BL is ideal for such finishing. Place the stitching near the edge of the seam allowance, and then trim away excess fabric. For an overedged seam, the blind stitch BO makes a durable bulkless finish. Good for straight grain, lengthwise seams.
54 DARTS Parts provide fit and contour in a garment and should be accurately stitched. A str^iight stitch dart (AK 3 ) is usually formed by stitching from the seam edge, tapering grad ually to the point, where the last 3 or 4 stitches parallel the fold. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain Vz to % inch in length. Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching. SINGLE THREAD DARTS Darts add styling and interest when stitched with the fold to the outside of garment.
55 DARTS IN INTERFACING Non-woven interfacings can be shaped without bulk with zigzag stitching. Selector setting BL or BQ may be used. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line and bring the raw edges together. Pin, over a muslin stay, and stitch. Back stitch at both ends. BLANKET BINDING The multiple stitch_ zigzag (BQ) is an excel lent stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords both a decorative and durable finish. Re move worn binding. Baste new binding securely in place and stitch.
56 MENDING Zigzag stitching is well suited for all types of household mending. Selector setting BQ provides a firm, flexible bond for the repair of rents and tears, and is ideal for the reinforcement and ap plication of elastic. Stitch length and width are reguiated according to need. Rent or Tear. Trim away ragged edges. Place an underlay to the wrong side of the tear for reinforcement. Using the multiple stitch zigzag (BQ) follow the line of the tear bringing the edges together.
57 SCALLOPING Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as self trimming on blouses, dresses, lingerie and children’s wear. Perfectly formed and evenW spaced scallops are produced automatically at Selector Settings BR and BS . BR results in a 12-stitch scallop. BS (5) r a 24-stitch scallop. Stitch regulator and Red Lever settings vary the length and depth of the scallop. After stitching, trim seam allowance to less than l/s" and clip into the points between scallops.
58 THE SEAM GUIDE ##% % "% i® SEAMS The seam guide aids in attaining uniform ity of seam width. It provides for stitching to be spaced at any dis tance between to 1^4" from the edge of the fabric. APPLICATIONS Seams Top Stitching Blind Stitching Decorative Stitching The attachment is used in connection with a presser foot. It is secured to the bed of the machine in either of the threaded holes to the right of the needle.
59 TOP STITCHING Curved seams require additional treatment in handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater elasticity and strength. Set the attachment at an angle so that the end closest to the needle acts as a guide. A sirriple and practical way to accent the lines of a garment and at the same time give additional firmness. Either singfe or multiple rows of stitching can be expertly placed along lapels and facing edges, around collars and pockets and as a hem finish.
60 BUND STITCHED HEMS SELECTOR: BO RED LEVER: 2-5 STITCH LENGTH: 10-20 PRESSER FOOT: GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE SEAM GUIDE Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish that is alniost invisible, and comparable to hand sewing. It is equally suited to straight as well as circular hems. Taped, bound, turned or unfinished hem edges can all be blind stitched with equal ease. Mark, turn and press the hem in the usual way. Place a basting guide line approximately 14'^ from top hem edge.
61 THE ZIPPER FOOT This foot is designed to facilitate the placement of stitch ing close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot insures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the machine in place of the regular presser foot, and may be adjusted to either the right or left side of the needle. Straight stitch or zigzag settings may be used.
62 ZIPPER INSERTION SELECTOR: AK RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE ZIPPER FOOT Skirt Zipper. Machine baste the placket opening of the skirt and press this seam open. Attach the zipper foot to the machine and position it to the right of the needle. Open the zipper. Place the zipper face down on the seam allowance with the edge of the teeth at the seam line. Turn the back seam allowance away from the body of the skirt. Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance.
63 ZIPPER INSERTION Move the foot to the left. Close the zipper and turn it face up. Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch it to the tape close to the folded edge. Turn zipper face down. Turn work to right side and pin in place. Baste. Move the foot to the right. Stitch across the lower end of the zipper and up to the waistline. Remove basting.
64 BLIND STITCHED ZIPPER INSERTION Blind stitching the final step of a zipper in sertion results in a fine finish that is almost in visible and comparable to hand sewing. Particu larly suitable for chiffons, sheers, velvets and all delicate fabrics where top stitching would be too harsh* Allow a seam allowance. Start the insertion in the usual way, through steps 1 and 2 (pages 62 and 63) but omit final top stitching.
65 CORDED WELTING SELECTOR: AK RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE OR STRAIGHT STITCH ZIPPER FOOT Cable cord comes in a variety of sizes and when covered with a firmly woven fabric makes a corded welting that is an excellent seam finish. This welting is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a true bias strip li/^'dnches wide, plus three times the width of the cord of either self or contrasting fabric. Sew strips together on the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length.
66 CORDED SEAMS SELECTOR: AK RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE OR STRAIGHT STITCH ZIPPER FOOT The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip covers, children’s clothes, blouses and lingerie. When cording a seam the zipper foot is usually adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk of the work will fall to thè left. Set Selector and Red Lever. Attach the corded welting to the right side of a single seam edge. with the same stitch length used to make the welting (pade 65).
67 THE FOOT HEMMER The narrow hemmer forms and stitches a per fectly turned hem with out basting or pressing. It is attached to the ma chine in place of the regular presser foot. APPLICATIONS Fine hems Edging ruffles Sheer seams Hemming with lace Lace insertion Lingerie finishes SELECTOR: AK RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT HEMMER HEMMING Set Selector and Red Lever . At the very edge of the fabric form a double fold. Crease this fold for about 2".
68 HEMMING WITH LACE SELECTOR: BL RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT HEMMER Most of the popular kinds of lace edging and insertion can be applied with the Foot Hemmer. It is an excellent way to trim children's clothes and to finish lingerie hems. Lace Applieci Over Hem. Fold and start the hem in the usual way. Starting about 1" down from the end of the lace, place the selvage under the needle and lower needle to hold lace firmly.
69 DECORATIVE HEMS SELECTOR: ALL SETTINGS THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE RED LEVER: 2 THRU 5 FOOT HEMMER Narrow hem edges can be turned and decorated in one operation using the foot hemmer and a stitch pattern. This time-saving finish is especially suited to ruffle edges and aprons. Lingerie and most delicate fabrics can be at tractively finished with a soft shell edge.
70 MULTI-SlOTTiD BINDER ADJUSTING LUG SCROLL FOR UNFOLDED BINDING GUIDE SLOTS FOR FOLDED BIAS TAPE CENTER SLOT OF SCROLL The multi-slotted binder is used to apply com mercial binding as well as self fabric bias to an unfinished fedge. This colorful trim is attractive when applied to children’s wear, aprons and fabric furnishings. It is a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and for making bound seams. The attachment will accommodate both straight and zigzag stitching.
71 MUITI-SLOTTED BINDER Lower the presser bar. Allow the attachment to do the work, merely guiding the fabric into the center of the scroll as you stitch. Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling than straight edges. Inside curves are stra;ightened as they are fed into the binder. If the fabric is soft and has a tendeney to stretch, reinforce the edge with a single row of stitching before binding.
72 ADJUSTING SCREW FORK ARM SELECTOR: AK ' RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: STRAIGHT STITCH RUFFLER Adjusting Points. 1. The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats. The Number 1 ADJUSTING LEVER ADJUSTING FINGER space setting is for gathers, and places fullness at every stitch. Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for pleats, Spacing them either 6 or 12 stitches apart. The star- is for straight stitching, and is used when grouping gathers or pleats. 2.
73 THE RÜFFLER Activating Parts. The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold the material to be gathered between them. The ruffling blade forms the gathers or pleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullness to which the ruffler is adjusted. The separator guide is slotted to guide seam edges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffle is attached. Preparation. Raise the needle to its highest point.
74 THE RÜFFLER The length of the sewing machine stitch also affects ruffle fullness. Since a given attachment setting puts an equal amount of fullness into each stitch regardless of its length, shortening the stitch (more stitches to the inch) makes the ruffle more full, lengthening the stitch (few stitches to the inch) makes it less full. For fine, closely spaced gathefing use a short stitch and an up ward adjustment of thè adjusting screw.
75 THE RÜFFLER Pleating. Move the adjusting lever of the ruffler to the space setting desired for pleats either 6 or 12 stitches apart. For the deepest pleat, activate the adjusting finger and turn the adjusting screw downward to its maximum setting. For smaller pleats turn the adjusting screw upward. Set stitch length. A short stitch places the pleats more closely together; a long stitch sepa rates the pleats for a greater distance.
76 DARNING SELECTOR: AK RED LEVER: 3 THROAT PLATE: STRAIGHT STITCH (RAISED) PRESSER FOOT: NONE STITCH LENGTH: FINEST Household linens, children's clothes and knit wear of all kinds can be repaired with the darn ing stitch. Trim away any ragged edges from the area to be darned. Center the worn section in em broidery hoops or the SINGER Stocking Darner (available separately) to hold it taut. Remove the presser foot and raise the throat plate.
77 FREE MOTION WORK SELECTOR: BL RED LEVER; 2-5 THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE (RAISED) PRESSER FOOT: NONE STITCH LENGTH: FINEST Script mon^^ stitched scallops and embroidery can be effectively accomplished with the zigzag stitch when the free motion principle is employed. Trace or mark the design on the right side of the fabric. Place the work in embroidery hoops, keeping the fabric taut. Remove the ptxesser foot and raise the throat plate. Set Selector at BL and Red Lever at desired setting.
78 DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings lii^nifiiifri iinngrmnii fflfflmm imsM flfljmflffl a888gga> aga&g apMgfe asfejgg Magg^ WSn DP 4 DS (5) 2 ty*Si^NySi^^i/\#^*Si4^/NyS^Si^Ny%^Nii**sySMujJé»à,jSÌitkjJàttuJétiijjdtK^JdujMiiiutMkk^Jéti^jJàf*^S/SujMi^jJA^jJÌHjJéiAAS^AjJé^jJSL4uJ^^ FO 2 FR 2 FS © 3 nrwr iMftWllitt smussi Mfum
79 DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings GM GP 4 GS (5) 2 GS (3) 4 HS (3) 4 IL IS ® 4
80 SEWING SAMPLE PAGES SELECTOR AND RED LEVER SETTINGS PAGE B PAGE A PAGE C TWO NEEDLES AP3 TWO NEEDLES AS (2) 3 TWO NEEDLES AM3 TWO NEEDLES AQ3 TWO NEEDLES AS @ 3 TWO NEEDLES AN3 TWO NEEDLES AR3 TWO NEEDLES AS © 3 TWO NEEDLES A03 TWO NEEDLES AS ® 3 TWO NEEDLES AS ® 3 TWO NEEDLES AL3 1f
81 SEWING SAMPLE PAGES SELECTOR AND RED LEVER SETTINGS PAGE E PAGE D TWO NEEDLES AN3 BS (3) 5 ki GN3 BQ5 •IL3 ■ IL4 ■ IL3 ■ BQ5 -GN3 TWO NEEDLES AN3 iW#i%¥iA^ GL3 BQ5 mmiTÎTfilTflTm wmmmm EP2 BQ5 GL3 JP3 ■ MNwmmm HN4DS (D 3 DS (2) 3 BM5 DS (2) 3 DS (2) 3 JP3 ■ •FL3 ■ BQ5 ■ JM4 BQ5 FL3
82 SEWING SAMPLE PAGES SELECTOR AND RED LEVER SETTINGS f BL2'/2 BM5 BL2'/2 BS (3) 5 Y MOTIFS MONOGRAMS PAGE F PAGE H f i BL3 JL3 if* BL2 BM4-5 BS 0 3-5 BL2V2 IL4 BM 3-4-5 MONOGRAMS PAGE G GL4 GN4 BL3 BL2V2 GN4 BM5
83 SEWING SAMPLE PAGES SELECTOR AND RED LEVER SETTINGS GS @ MOTIFS PAGE J 5 APPLIQUE PAGE M BN 5 APPLIQUE PAGE N BL2 V2 -3-4 FREE MOTION HOOPS BL2 BL2 EMBROIDERY PAGE K FREE MOTION BL3-4-5 BL2V2 APPLIQUE PAGE L IL3 GL3 BM5 AK3 EMBROIDERY PAGE O SCALLOPING AND COUCHING PAGE P AK3 FREE MOTION BL5
84 FASHION* AIDS Available for separate purchase at your local SINGER CENTER DARNING AND EMBROIDERY ATTACHMENT Fabrics that require skillful hand ling may be darned and embroid ered with expert results when the Darning Sind Embroidery Foot is used. This attachment is an aid to all who desire perfection in free mo tion embroidery and applique work. The foot firmly holds the fabric as the needle enters and rises from the work, while fully revealing the line of design to be followed.
85 TO REMOVE AND REPLACE STITCH PATTERN PLATE COVER I TO REMOVE Place several sheets of paper under the two springs as illustrated. Turn cover all the way back until it snaps off. The paper will prevent damage to machine arm during cover removal. TO REPLACE Position cover with lugs resting on top of springs. Push cover in the direction shown until it snaps into place.
86 TO CLEAN THE MACHINE CLEAN BETWEEN TENSION DISCS CLEAN CLEAN AND Your sewing machine was built to exacting standards of precision and workmanship. Its per formance depends on the care and treatment it receives when in use and before storing it away. When in regular use, the machine should be cleaned periodically to remove the lint and fluff which may have accumulated around the work ing parts.
87 TO REMOVE AND REPLACE BOBBIN CASE ''tj /'' ^'' " • Bil i II iilJ I: To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as follows: 1. Remove throat plate (see page 17) and open slide plate (see page 10). 2. Unlock bobbin case by lifting and pulling holder to right as shown. 3. Remove bobbin case from machine. 4. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any other foreign matter which might clog the machine.
88 POSITIONING STUD / // /J // / \::/i / 'wf WKiSi ’I cs 4i#i w ^ ilmilsii yy ^ 5. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case straddles positioning stud. 6. Push bobbin case bolder to left as shown until it snaps down into lock position. 7. Close bed slide and replace throat plate.
89 TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE Use SINGER Oil and SINGER Lubncantl Both are extra quality products especially pre pared for sewing machines, and should always be used in the care of your 401. 'wmLwMimsM Clean the machine periodically as instructed on page 86. Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated. Remove screws A and lift off arm top cover. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the gears as shown. A tube of this lubricant can be purchased at your Singer Sewing Center. NEVER APPLY OIL TO THESE GEARS.
90 Swing face plate to left and oil the places indi cated. Open slide plate and apply a drop of oil to the hook raceway as indicated. Close slide plate, replace arm top cover and close face plate.
91 Tilt machine back and remove thumb nut from screw B, being careful not to lose felt washer, and remote cover from underside of machine. Oil each of places indicated by arrows and occasionally apply a small quantity of lubricant to teeth of gears as shown. Replace bottom cover. THE MOTOR REOUIRES NO LUBRICATION.
92 ELECTRICAL INFORMATION The SINGER* Electric Motor in your sewing machine is furnished for operation on an alter nating current of 110-120 volts, 25 to 75 cycles, or on 110-120 volts direct current. Special motors can be provided through your SINGER CENTER for direct or alternating current for any voltage between 50 and 145, and for 32 volts direct current.
93 SINGER* LIGHT The light is turned ''on” or "off^ by the switch F. To Remove Bulb. Remove two screws D and lamp cover E. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it into socket and at same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock bulb pin G, then withdraw bulb. To Replace Bulb. Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin G entering slot of socket and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb pin G in position. Replace lamp cover E and securely fasten it in position with two screws D.
94 INDEX PAGE Applique ...................................................... .44-45 Illustrations of Samples................................L-M-N Attachments Foot Hemmer ......................................... .67-69 Multi-Slotted Binder .................................... 70-71 Ruffler ................................................... .......72-75 Binding ............................................................. 70-71 Blanket Binding, Replacing .................................
95 PAGE Monograms ................... ......... ............. .......... 77 Satín Stitch Scallops .................... .............. 77 Gathering ...... ........... ...... .............. ....;.......... ..... 73 Gathering Foot ........................................................ 84 General Purpose Foot, Applications ............. ...51-57 Guiding and Supporting Fabric ............. ........... 23 Hemming with Lace ................. ........................ 68 Hems Blindstitched ....... ...............
96 PAGE PAGE Seams Thready Needle, Fabric and Stitch Length Chart. .. 5 Corded ....... ...................... ............... ..... ..... ..... 66 Threading Hat Felled .............. .............................. ...... . 52 Bobbin Case ........................ .............. ............... 11 Knit Fabric .......... .... .... ........ ............. 52 Filler Cord........................................................... 43 Lingerie ................. ..... .............. ......... .............
To all whom it may concern: The improper placing or renewal of the trademark " S I N C E R" or any other of the trademarks of The Singer Company (all of which are duly Registered Trademarks) on any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside a SINGER factory or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden. Form 20857 Rev. (1166) Printed in U. S. A.
For your protection SINGER Sewing Machines are sold and serviced wherever you see the famous SINGER and Red “S” Trademarks. When your machine needs servicing call your SINGER CENTER to be sure of warranted SINGER parts and service. See address in the classi fied telephone directory.
