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CONTENTS Chapter 1* Getting to Know Your Machine...................................................................................................... 2 Principal París................................................................................. ......................................... .... . 2 Accessories................................................................................. .... ......................................... . .3 Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew..................................
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accessaries The accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kiiids of sewing easily. 1. Transparent Bobbins {No. 172336). 2. Needles ♦ Style 2020 in your machine when deliver ed is for general sewing. ♦ Style 2045 is used for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic. 3* Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack buttonholes of any length in four steps. 4. Special Purpose Foot Used for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching.
choosing and changing accessories CHANGING THE NEEDLE ♦ Raise needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw A and remove the needle. ♦ Insert new needle up into clamp B as far as it will go, with the flat side of the needle to the back, ♦ Tighten needle clamp screw. Flat Side to Back CHANGING PRESSER FEET | Snap-on Presser Feet The presser feet furnished with your machine Raise needie to highest position by turning t snap on and off a common shank.
REMOVING AND REPLACING NEEDLE PLATE • Raise presser foot. • Raise needle to highest position. • Open slide piate. Place thumb under right side of f^eedie plate, lift it up and withdraw it to right. •, Replace needle plate under clamping pin A. push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place. ATTACHrNG SNAP-IN FEED COVER ♦ Raise presser foot ♦ Raise needle to highest position by turning hand wheel tov/ard you.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE There are many types of fabrics around the worid, each manufactured with a specific fibre and weight. The fabric below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is available for purchase. SILK (Woven) Chiffon, Organza, Tune Net Lace.
Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order select the correct needle and ihrea
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct c make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Table on the previous page, and the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table below are practical g to needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.)« Then the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read acros Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and n choice for your fabric will be found. Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column.
needie-fabric combinations Correct needle selection is closely related to stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric is almost always caused by a needle that is berit, burred or that is an inappropriate style for the fabric and thread you are using. The three types of needles most commonly used are the regular, ball point, and wedge. To obtain good results, the correct size and type of needle for the fabric and thread you are using must be chosen. Refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table, page 8.
ihe bobbin thread! Your sewitig machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the spool and is thipaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the hobbin. Wind fee bobbin before threading fee machine. WINDING THE BOS&IN Pr<^amlk>i) Steps 1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needie is in highest po sition, 2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it foward you With the right hand while holding hand wheel with fee left hand. 3.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1, Hold bobbin $0 that thread unwinds in the direction shown, and put bobbin into bobbin case. 2. Puli thread into notch A. draw it back under the tension spring and back into slot B. 3. Draw approximately 10 cm (4 inches) of thread across the bobbin. 4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter s between the needle plate and slide plate.
threading the machine • ♦ ♦ • * Raise the presser foot to release tension discs and make sure oeedie and take-up iever are in highest position. Place spool pin felt from accessories over spool pin, and place spool of thread on spool pin over felt, with spool thread re taining slit A on top. Keep right hand on spoo! of thread to hold firmly in place while threading machine. Snap thread into upper thread guide 1. Pass thread through point 2. • Thread the needle thread tension 3.
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that yoa have wound ate bobbin and threaded the needJe, raise the bobbin thread thnwgh the hole Irj the needte plate. i.Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate. 2. Continue turnirtg hand wheat and hold ing needle thread untii needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop. 4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under the foot and draw them to bade of machine.
adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric Before you move the selectors to set your machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is above the needle plate. SETTING SELECTORS ♦ Set needle position selector at ♦ Set stitch width selector at : j JL |^ ^ ♦ Set stitch length: .5-4 to suit fabric REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length dial controls the length of stitches. The numbers around the edge of the dial express stitch length in mm; the lower the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric longer stitches for heavy fabric. The area from 0 to 1 is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 23), Setting the Dial ♦ Turn dial so that stitch length desired is positioned under ▼ symbol.
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sewmg a seam ♦ Needle Position; IA ♦ Stitcti Width: ij in IIt ♦ Stitch length: To suit fabric ♦ Generai Purpose Needle Piate ♦ General Purpose Foot 1, Raise presser foot. Pull thread back u presser foot leaving at feast 10 cm {4 in of thread. 2. Position needle approximately 1.2 cm ( inch) from fabric edge. Then lower pres ser foot and backstitch almost to the edg of the fabric for reinforcement by stitch in reverse direction.
applications DARNING With Embroidery Hoop ♦ Needle Position: -L :X- JL ♦ Stitch Width: ♦ Stitch Length: 0 ♦ Snap-in Feed Cover ZIPPER INSERTION How the zipper 1$ inserted will depend on t type of the garment and the location of the zipper. With the adjustable zipper foot, yo will find it easy to sew an even line of st ing close to the zipper.
CORDED SEAMS The zipper foot is also particuiary suitable the construction and insertion of corded seam X; Needle Position: Stitich Width: A i i ii* ♦ Stitich Length: To suit fabric ♦ General Purpose Needle Plate ♦ Zipper Foot Making the Welting • Adjust zipper foot to the left of the needl as described on page 19. ♦ Fold a strip of fabric cut on the true bias over a cord of the desired length, with raw edges even. Lower zipper foot.
adfusting machine stitch to suit your fabric You can do functional as well as decorative zig-zag stitching with your sewing How to set selectors ♦ Needle Position: ♦ Stitch Width: i ♦ Stitch L e n g t h * 4 to suit fabric ♦ General Purpose Needle Plate ♦ General Purpose Foot NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR Before moving selector, make sure needle Is out of the fabric. Most of your zig-zag stitching will be done in centre X needle position. Left X and right J.
ADJUSTING NEEDLE THREAD TENSION Zig-zag stitching requires less needle thre^6 tension than straight stitching. Make a test sample with the fabric and thre you plan to use so that you can adjust the tension properly. The stitches should lie fl against the fabric without causing the fabri to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric puckered, lower the needle thread tension by turning the dial to a lower num ber.
satin stitching When you wish to produce a satin stitch make a test sample first so you can adjust stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure a firm stitch. Crisp organdy, lawn or a fusible Interfacing are suitable for this purpose.
applications APPyQüÉ Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create design, trace a simple outline from a colouring book, or use a motif cut from a print Fabrics of similar or different textures combine equally well A closely spaced plain zig-zag stitch is used for appliqué work. Although you may v width to accommodate fabric weave and texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.
ZIG-ZAG SEAM FINISHES Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is iikeiy to rave!. There are two methods of finishing seams in such fabrics: trimming seam edge or over edging. Make a test sample to determine which method best suits your fabric. Needle Position; J» :Xi «1 Stitch .
LINGERIE SEAMS To make seams in iingerie durable and fiexibie use a combination of straight and plain zig-zag stitching. Make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is most ap propriate for your fabric and garment. Method 1 is particularly suitable for 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) bias seams in woven fabric and method 2 is best for seams in fine knits. ♦ Needle Position; X. ilj -I mt ♦ Stitch Width; j I ♦ stitch Length: 1 to 1.
in addition to straight stitch and zig-zag stitch, your machine can produce two ty patterns: Straight Stretch stitch and Ric-Rac stitch. Setting selectors SETTIKG NEEDLE POSITION Before moving needle position selector, make sure needle is above fabric. AJi stitch patterns can be sewn in either left L , centre X , or right J, needle position Selector setting centre X is used most often. SETTING STITCH WIDTH Before moving stitch width selector, always raise needle above fabric.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH When you are preparing to do stretch stitch** ing, make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use For stretch stitch patterns, stitch length is controlled With a single setting of the stitch length selector. Simply rotate it until the c loured bar i is under the ▼ symbol above the dial ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE When you are using stretch stitch patterns, you may need to adjust the stitch balance dia in order to correct the appearance of the stitch.
adiusting stitches to suit stretch fabrics GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabrics — nylon tricot and elasticized fabrics, for example — do require support while being stitched. ♦ For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holding the seam in front and back of the presser foot as you sew (illustration A).
applications STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH The straight stretch stitch is an invaluable stitch most commonly used for sewing seams on» fabric with elasticity. The straight stretch stitch is particulary useful for seaming extra heavy and extra-bulky fabric.
HIC-RAC STITCH The ric-rac stitch is a versatile stitch. Use it for heavy duty general purpos With this stitch you may create casing on items such as purses, vegetable bags on sleeve openings. The ric-rac stitch is particulary suitable for these appli because it combines utility with beauty.
buttonhoíes ♦ Stitch Balance Dial: Neutral position ♦ Butionhoi'e Foot B Always make a test buttonhole on a sample in your fabric. Be sure to duplicate thickness of garment and include interfacing. If the two lines of stitching in your sample are of unequal density refer to the next page. Place work under buttonhole foot, align centre m arking of buttonhole A with red line on foot, and align end marking of buttonhole B with horizontal line on foot. Do not lower the needle.
FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOtlNG (Cont’d.) Step 3: Sar Tack Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn buttonhole dial ciockwim to step 3. Take at least four stitches ending at point D. Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to 'step 4. Stitch until the side stitching meets the bar tack at point E. CHANGING STITCH DENSITY Stitch density on left and right sides of the buttonhole may be balanced by using the stitch balance dial.
buttons ♦ Needte Position; ;jUi X J. ♦ Stitch Width: To suit button ♦ Stitch Length: 0 ♦ Snap-in Feed Cover ♦ General Purpose Foot ATTACHtNG A BUTTON Flat buttons can be sewn on by machine using the zig-zag stitch. ♦ Attach snap-in feed cover to general pur pose needle plate. l.Set stitch width selector at |. ♦ Set needle position at left ♦ Place button positioned on fabric under foot and lower needle into centre of left hole.
Fabric handling, when sewing tubular and hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your sewing machine to free-arm sewing, • To convert machine to free-arm sewing, simply lift the extension bed up and off the machine as illustrated, • To convert machine back for flat bed sew ing, simply slide extension bed onto the base of the machine and snap into place.
CLEAMrNG YOUR MACHINE CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, dis~ WBhmecTliTliXMMli .. With a soft doth or Sint brush, dean all points indicated by arrows, especially the bobbin case area and feed. Also, clean exposed parts, if necessary a mild solution of soap and water may be used to remove stubborn stains. No other cleaning liquid or powder should be used. Periodically apply a drop of oil only to the areas indicated after cleaning.
PEPLACiNG SUDE PLATE REMOVfHG FACE PLATE Loosen screw A (do not remove). Loosen face plate screw B then remove face píate by drawing it toward you. Re place face plate by sliding top edge of pfate under edge of arm top cover. Tighten screws B artd A. Place slide plate in slide way with the front edge close to, but riot covering, the retain ing spring C. With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the under ^de of the slide plate.
Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the sections of the instruction book that explain the operation you are performing to make sure you are using the machine correctly. If the problem still exists, the following checklist may help you to correct it. If you still have difficulties, call your nearest authorized Dealer. What To Do If: Needle Breaks Hefer to Page: Make sure,.. ♦ NeecHe i$ fully inserted into needle clamp.................................................... .......................
your persona! measurements This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. You will need the a of someone to help you take the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure. The figures in these illustrations show where the tape measure should be placed when each measurement. (inches) 1. Bust — Fullest part — slightly higher in back................. 2. Waist — Around natural waistline................................. 3. Hip —... cm (inches) below natural waistline {fullest part)...
Index Operating the Machine . Accessories ................ * . 3 Checklist , Ad|usting Stiches for Stretch Fabrics .Performance . 29 Personal Ueasurem ents Appliqué ....................... 24 Power and Light Switch Attaching a Button.............. 34 Presser Feet . . . . Bobbin................. 3,11.12,14 Buttonhole Foot . , Raising Bobbin Thread .... ... 14 Threading the Bobbin Case .. , . . 12 Changing Presser Feet General Purpose Foot Winding .. .................. 11 Special Purpose Foot Bobbin Case ...
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