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You are now the owner of a new White ZODIAC zigzag sewing machine, acclaimed for its superiority in design and sewing performance. Its exclusive embroidery cams push button, built in button your hole machine making, produce saves both you time beautiful and and effort. practical The results also its twin needle sewing in an inspiration to do creative work.
I N D E X Page Features and Parts........................................................ 2-3-4 Needle and Thread Chart ................................................ S Setting of the Needle ..................................................... 6 Winding of the Bobbin ................................................. 6 Threading the Bobbin Case ............................................. ? Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle ...................................... 8 Upper Threading ..........................
Fig.
FEATURES AND PARTS ¡Front View) 1. Thread Take-up Lever 13. Bobbin Winding Tension 2. Pressure Release ( Darning ) 14. Drop Feed Buttons 3. Arm Thread Guides 15. Decorative Stitch Pattern Dial 4. Zigzag Width Control Knob 16. Needle Positioning Lever 5. Push Button Pattern Selector 17. Tension Regulator 6. Top Plate 18. Needle Clamp Screw 7 /#'.*-4« 7. Mechanism Releasing Lever 19. Needle Plate 8. Bobbin Winder 20. Cover Plate 9. Hand Wheel 21. Presser Foot 10.
FEATURES AND PARTS (Back View) 25. 26. 27. Presser Bar Lifter Thread Cutter Feed 28. 29. 30.
NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE Fabric Needle No. Silk Machine Stitches Per Inch Cotton Thread Mercerized Thread Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking, canvas, duck, etc. 4 6 to 8 10 to 30 Heavy Duty Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette 3 8 to 10 30 to 40 Heavy Duty Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc. 2 10 to 12 40 to 60 Heavy Duty Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, shantung, etc.
SETTING THE NEEDLE See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar A to its high est point, turning wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle I flat side to back i in the needle clamp and push it upward as tar as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a screw driver. A t H : r c. llte ■ i j l flic* ■ ■ by itAnfi to he siire h Fig. 3 ^ • ••■ •«•rMitil iieoiile IS itt tliif; «.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Step 1 i illustrated in Fig. 7 i. Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand, so that the slot m the edge of the bobbin case IS on top. forefinger top leads of Take right from the bobbin hand left to so between that right. thumb the Step and thread 2. on Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 8, and draw it under the tension spring and into the fork Fig.
PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Open hinged cover plate in front of the needle. (See 20, Fig. 1 ) Hold the bobbin case latch, ( A ) , Fig. 10, between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body,
% %> •^ • > i> •a ^ ^ э '1 »5 3 7. 8. 9. 10. Up into take-up lever from right to left. Down through guide in thread bar again. Into guide inside face. Through needle clamp guide and into needle from front to back pulling three to four inches of thread through needle. (See Fig. 12s Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop (.Fig. 11) will be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight.
10 UPPER THREADING TWIN NEEDLES (See Fig. 3 for inserting needles) Follow threading instructions for single needle with these exceptions. Place thread, matching or contrasting through arm in color, on both spool pins. Draw down and threads around tension discs thread (4) guides with (3) one then thread passing between the back discs and the other between the front discs. Then into corresponding notches of check spring. (5) Fig.
11 STRAIGHT STITCHING For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material, it is advisable to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory ,J box. Both have narrow needle slots. • Fig. 15 Changing the Foot and Plate. To ' ■ « change presser foot i 22 Fig. 1 ' loosen thumb screw and remove zigzag foot. Replace with hinged straight foot and tighten screw securely. Fig. 16 To change needle plate = 19 Fig.
12 W'...- ,.ra p-u- PK. fpot, on pua :o n„.>e =Be io.loBv.np «P.pp p a r p p p - o «.w o r :he :P„„ile pbU Pr<»k P. . p p P p > 5 :he P.ot or oeorUa prore. Set decorative stitch pattern dial ■ • ! for straight stitching by pressing down either of the selector buttons I 5' after holding selection lever o 7 ' to the right as far as possible. ‘ See Fig.
13 SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated shortest stitch and 6 is the longest, but for a variety of lengths. Turn the dial to stitch. The number of the stitch length the reverse button R. by the the you the dial, 11, shown in Fig. 17.
14 When the upper and under tensions are pro perly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. TSghte« 20). When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 21). When the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 2 2 ) . Fig. 19 Fig. 22 Fig. 21 Fig.
15 SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cay should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A, and then press cap B down again to halfway spot. (Lower the feed slightly by pressing "Darn button halfway down.) Fig. 23, 24 and 25. DARNING AND MONOGRAMMING.
16 REMOVING THE WORK Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar l°^^*ed at the hiahest position Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the e , g. is 27, and pass ,ha threads over the thread cutter. Pull dowrr sl.ghtly holding thread rn both hands, so as not to bend the, needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot. Fig. 27 Fig.
Indicates the right hand needle position Indicates the center needle position ^ Indicates the left hand needle position 3 All twin needle work to be done with needle position lever in extreme left L e f t ) Cetilcr^ R i g h t s hand position, i Black ^ ) Fig. 29 Ail atfiiiant stuchmq lo oe doae usuig -itilch riAAÛÎe oiare and press er loots The neesiie pcssiliorung Aivaï Fig. 28 The needle positioning lever set in any other position will cause the needle to be broken.
18 AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERY SEWING 1. Any one of the st.lch designs Ulustr.led on the decotatwe stitch d,at made automatically. The pattern located in the red U ■ 2. TO select a pattern hold selection lever 7 either one of the selector buttons until a click is heard. Each time me pressed down the dial will move one station. Should you ignore holding the selection lever as far to the m e one pr ^ "^Irtiml The^ricror hu.
19 3TITCH PATTERNS ILLUSTRATED IN RED SINGLE NEEDLE ONLY 1 t ttt R C R R C C Fig. 31 . 1 ) Caution twin needle not to be used as they will be broken. ;2) Use single needle only. ;3) All designs can be sewn in any needle position. <4: For best results set zigzag stitch width control knob to off position and stitch length control near 0 as possible, without stopping the feeding action.
20 5) How versatile your machine is will become apparent with practice, as just changing the controls will do the following. Zigzag Stitch Width Control ^1O m 1 1 ^ \^ 2 3 4 5 ....................................................... , '''I ■ \ L Needle Position 1 c Ì ' : ^ : 1i i R 1 ; \ Fig. 33 LRLRCC Fig. 32 6 ) Increasing the stitch length slightly will stretch the pattern Fig.
21 PATTERNS ILLUSTRATED IN RED ON DIAL Fig. 35 You can alter these designs many times by just changing the controls as noted on Page 20.
ELASTIC OR MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCHES Use standard foot-Needle extreme left-Zigzag stitch # 5 and set stitch length / V V’/ ' . ' V ' / v u v ; position lever width control control to suit material being sewn. Use when replacing worn blanket bind ings as they afford both a decorative and durable finish. Fig. 39 Use when applying elastic waist bands to skirts and dresses. Be sure to stretch the elastic as it is applied, to insure fullness required in the garment. Fig.
REVERSE STITCH DESIGNS Use standard zigzag presser foot. Set needle positioning lever ; 16 Fig. 1 extreme left Set zigzag stitch width knob 4 Fig. 1 at number 5 for single needle stitching and at number 3 for twin J ^ 0 0 ^ | ^ 0 g J > » » t « Set stitch length knob 11 Fig. 1 ■ at number 6 the correct stitch length is set automatically. Set reverse stitch pattern enlarger lever 30 Fig. 41 to suit.
TWIN NEEDLE DESIGNS ONLY THE ONES ILLUSTRATED IN BLACK Use standard foot - Needle position lever extreme left - Zigzag stitch width control s3 or less. Set stitch length control to suit material and design being sewn. S - 1 5 “ i Fig.
# ah y y 9 7 BUTTON HOLES Various width ing a button. To establish and the lengths correct can length be made button automatically hole required by add just M press mch to the cutting space for bar tacks. To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by adding the width ( A) and thickness iB) of the button. Fig. 47 The width of the button hole sides are governed by the material used.
2. 3. 4. 6. 7. Place needle positioning lever in center position. Fig. 28 .,^r^ui Set zigzag stitch width control (4 Fig. 1) to suit material being sewn or width of buttonhole desired. (Number 5 for the widest buttonhole.) Set decorative stitch dial at number 1 position for bar tack of buttonhole, ^is automatically sets the stitch length. (However, be sure the stitch length control knob 11 Fig. 1 is set above the number 1 position.) , r u i.*.
SEWING ON BUTTONS , 1 . Remove presser foot and replace with special purpose button sewing foot. Fig. 49. 2 ) Push drop feed button down all the way. I 3 i Set zigzag width control at 0 i off ) and decorative stitch dial on Manual. 4 Set needle position lever in the extreme left hand position. Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the ■ \ \ l * N - presser foot.
Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks, snaps If a four hole button is to be sewn follow the same procedure above for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the re maining two holes. Hooks, snaps, and etc. are sewn to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing the two hole button. EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when embroidering or monogrammmg. See Fig. 54 .
MANUAL OPERATION Be sure standard zigzag presser foot, place and machine is set for manual operation. Use for : zigzag needle plate, are in OVERCASTING WORN EDGES Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabric as the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just passover the edge of the fabric on the right. PATCHING » t Machine baste patch into place has been cut away. Then zigzag overcasting around edge of hole.
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES Narrow Hemmer : presser in foot place. lever with Set center, With needle at its highest position replace regular narrow hemmer decorative zigzag stitch stitch 'Fig. dial width 58) at being manual control at off sure to tighten it positio.i, needle positioning for straight stitched securely hem or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit. For a plain narrow hem make a 1 8 fold for about each end hemmer.
LACE TRIMMED HEM To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle (Fig. 61) sew hem as above guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll. Rick rack may be used in the same way. LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING Hold lace 1 8 inch from raw edge on right hand side of fabric insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem | Fig. 62 ) let hem roll over and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed the hem is pressed to the wrong side.
QUILTING GUIDE Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight or decorative stitching. Attach standard presser foot. Slip U shaped holder on guide under presser foot thumb screw from the back and tighten screw v 65). Adjust the curved bar for the distance desired between rows of stitches and set so it presses slightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the previous stitching line, successive rows will be an equal distance apart. Fig. 6 6 . Fib. 6 8 Fig.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning should be done with a small brush, never with a sharp or pointed tool. To remove the stitch forming mechanism, proceed as follows : 1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. The mechanism will assume the position illustrated in Fig. 70.
When cleaning is complete and needle is still in its highest position, replace as follows : 1. Place shuttle A Fig. 71 against driver D and adjust into position. 2. Replace race cover B, fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with clamps C making certain the clamps have snapped securely into place. 3. Put the bobbin case into position by fitting tongue into groove of race cover.
) > To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip the head back on its hinges and oil all moving w > parts indicated by arrows. Fig. 74. * > > » 1 > > ) > HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB Open Face Fig. 73 unscrew bulb and insert new one. > For ■ » White part. Fig. 73 > - .
40 Trouble Skipping Stitches Irregular Stitches Uneven Stitches Correction Probable Cause Bent needle Discard and replace Needle place in correctly in clamp See instruction page No. 6 Too fine a needle for thread being used See needle and thread chart, page No. 5 Upper thread tension too loose Tighten upper tension Improper threading See threading instruction, page No.
41 Trouble Upper Thread Breaking Improperly threaded Too much tension Starting with take-up i in incorrect position Improper setting of needle ^ Bent or eye of needle : too sharp Bent or blunt needle Material Puckering Correction i Probable Cause Refer to threading instructions see page No. 8 and rethread machine Loosen tension on upper thread by turning thread tension knob to lower number Always start sewing with take-up lever in highest position Refer to needle setting instruction see page No.
42 Trouble Buttons for selecting deco rative stitch designs binding Not holding mecha nism release lever in its extreme right hand position Buttons for selecting deco rative stitch designs locked = Two buttons pressed at the same time When sewing reverse stitch patterns machine sews only in reverse Reverse stitch pattern enlarger-see Fig.
43 Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories described earlier in this book. The following pages been designed illustrate specifically for additional your time machine. saving They attachments are available that at have modest cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot supply you with these items, ask him to receiving order the them for genuine. you White by part part number. designed Then for you will be best performance machine.
^ 44 i ':hi SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE Fig.
45 ATTACHMENTS le nr-eille posit iiip lever IS in 'ire riooii r)osiп^)a ATTACHMENT FOOT Fig. 77 EDGESTITCHER The edgestitcher is used in mak ing dainty lace insertions, edgings and piping. The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in sewing together various pieces of material. If you want to sew lace, lace and embroi dery, or lace and tucked strips togeth er, place the piece of material that will be on top in slot 1 iFig. 78; and the lower fabric in slot 4.
46 1 .He fid wUl°a';r« 1 nntler the needle and back of the edgestitcher so that -be ,ab„c .a .he lei. hand and the lace tKo rirrVit beina sure the fabric overlaps the lace slightly. R.ok’Rack can be sown to Ih® «dge ofjhe in sS piping to the left naioi pipmg ?lace fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the fiiigfif.fonVrtri use the edgestitchei. There are hundreds of other uses. Fig. 81 Fig. 80 Fig.
I# 47 B I N D E R This attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the edge of material in one operation, on scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercial folded bias binding. The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide. FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 86) Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding binder to right or left.
48 THE SET OF HEMMERS Before bobbin attaching thread is any of pulled up. the hemmers. Then, with Be sure hemmer m place, hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bobbin horizontally thread under with both hemmer hands toward and back. slip Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hemmer. Fold material to suit hold at each end of fold. up over spoon (Fig.
49 H E M M E R Fig. 89 S E T Fig 90 Fig.
50 THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT This attachment is used to make and insert covered cording, and to sew in zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either right or left of needle. , CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so needle is cen tered in needle hole. Machine baste cord m place ¡Fig. 95—96'. Fig. 96 foot To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable so needle stitches closer to cord, and on edge of base fabric.
51 ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT Fig. 98 Fig.
52 Fi 101 -ip.9 Fig. 103 Mil nrnduce yards of delicate ruffliag or precision Ruffing iin also be done and sewn ^^[¿^'ra®ge oi use, Is simple to use. a dress and etc. Fig.
53 R Ü F F L E R Fig. 104 Fig. 105 Fig.