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CONTENTS HINE / the Serial No. if arm. 3f arm. : reference. 1. NAMES OF PARTS..................................................................................................................... ^ 2. ACCESSORIES.............................................................................................................................. Г 3. BEFORE SEWING....................................................................................................................... ^ Detaching Extension Table......
WHITE SEWING MACHINE Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this appliance. The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No. is located Rear of arm. Serial No----------------------- ------------------- -Model No. 1122 Retain these numbers for future reference.
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3. BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier in ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Slide it off and the machine is used as a free-arm model. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider: trousers, sleeves, cuffs of T-shirts, blouses, etc. Do vice-versa of above steps to attach extension table. To open lid of accessory box, push it open, as illustrated.
Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot power cord © I controller and Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine, (written on a plate at back of machine) ■ilfSpecifications vary from country to country. Switch on power to put on machine and turn on sewing light. Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use. The more you press foot controller, the faster the machine runs.
Changing Needle Set needle position by towards you in the highest turning handwheel Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper (a) and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point.
Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter ©. Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you Snap-on Presser Foot; Push the lever © in the arrow direction so that the presser foot will come off. Position a new foot with the pin ©right under the groove of the holder. Lower the presser foot lifter so that the foot will be automatically snapped on.
When you fail to catch the foot, push the lever in the arrow direction slightly. Screw-snap Presser Foot: Remove foot holder by loosening screw with screwdriver. Replace screw-snap type presser foot and tighten screw.
Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and take it out. Close latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Pull out spool pin. Put a spool on spool pin. Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pre tension device, following numb ers © © and @. Wind thread clockwise around bobbin several times. Push bobbin on to spindle. Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. Machine stops automatically when winding is full. Push bobbin to left. Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open face cover and loosen set-screw of the guide for bobbin winding, by using screw driver and adjust height.
Inserting Bobbin Place bobbin in its case with thread running in direction of arrow. i\ Guide thread into slot bobbin case. of Pulling thread to left, bring it under tension spring then to delivery eye ®.
Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount. To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver. Raise needle in the highest position. Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4") from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted. Drop Feed Lever The lever is on right side of hook.
Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot lifter. Raise take-up lever to the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. H Thread following numbers ©-©. Pass thread through guide ©. Lead thread either side of tension disc @. Hook it to guide @ from down to upwards. Thread take-up lever @. Pass thread to guide (5) from right to left, and guide (D (left one) then needle eye ©. Leave end of thread of about 15 cm (6").
Twin Needle Threading Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points ©, ® and ®. At point ®. pass threads separatly to right and left of tension disc. At guide ®, pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide. At point ®, thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye. Leave ends of threads of about 1 5 cm (6"). Decorative Tucks or Designs Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects.
Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold end of upper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads to about 1 5 cm (6") and place them together under presser foot on left. Foot Pressure Adjust foot pressure with the lever inside the face cover. 0: for darning, etc. 1: for very elastic materials, thick fabrics, etc. 2: for normal sewing.
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table NEEDLE THREAD FABRIC European Mercerized Cotton Cotton VERY SHEER: Lace, Voile, Chiffon, Net Cotton Covered Polyester, Silk, Nylon Silk U.S.
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4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. * Always make sure needle is in the highest position when operating dial. Stitch Length Dial Set dial at indicating point @ according to stitch size required. For a longer stitch, turn dial downwards. For a shorter stitch, turn it upwards. For normal sewing between 2 and 3.
Place fabric under foot about 1 cm (0.4") inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter. Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew back wards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever. Release lever and commence forward sewing guiding fabric by hand as it is fed. Never pull material.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for rein forcement at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished. Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Applications of Straight Stitch A. Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. B. Basting/Topstitching Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravell ing, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. Make sure needle is in upper position when you set control. Needle Position Control Needle position can be changed by turning needle position control.
6.MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown. Determine Length Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8") for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. Determine Width Determine width according to diameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material. Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part @ of buttonhole foot. Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot and arrow (b) of foot indicates beginning line of marking.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 ( g ) and sew 5-6 stitches. Left side; Change pattern to 2 ( |] ). Sew left side from front to back until it reaches end line. Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. Bar tacking; Change pattern to 3 ( S ) and sew 5-6 stitches. Right side: Change pattern to 4 ( U j and sew right side until it catches first bar tack. To prevent unstitching, set zigzag width at 0 and proceed for a few stitches.
Cutting Buttonholes Stick a needle through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting. Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter. Corded Buttonholes For stretch fabrics such as knits, a corded buttonhole is effective to keep finished buttonhole in shape. Hook filler cord on top spur and lead ends of cord under foot, pull taut, and hook them to bottom notches as shown. Proceed with stitching as for regular buttonholes.
7. SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown. Position a button and material under foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button. Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches. Stop machine when needle is in upper position. @ Set zigzag width control to 0 and sew 3-4 stitches to prevent unstitching. OR (jb) Draw out work and cut off threads. Draw thread ends through to wrong side and tie a knot.
8. OVERCASTING For light weight material: Set machine as shown. Overcasting prevents edge of fabric from fraying and produces neat finish. Sew carefully, guiding right edge of fabric along cloth guide of foot. For thick and elastic material: Set machine as shown. Use ball point needle to get better stitch performance. Sew carefully so that all stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric.
9. OVERLOOKING Overlooking stitches make it possible to se\A/ and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. @ For medium, thin material (b) For medium, thick material Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop outside the edge of material. In some cases overlooking stitches can be used for overcasting.
Application of Ultra Stretch Stitch A. Seaming On most knits, a 3/16 inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlook stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more profes sional finish, eliminate bulky seams prevent curling, permit the gar ment to "give" under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment.
Application of Rick-Rack I^V/A\V//| A. Topstitching/Rick-Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a deco rative inset to add an additional creative flair. B. Tapering/Rick-Rack The rick-rack stitch may be tape red to form creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings.
Application of Decorative Fun Patterns >>>>>> 111 A. Fun stitches-Swan-Fish-Briar I» r' The reverse stitch patterns pro duce swan, fish, briar designs for use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems as the scallop stitch. The reverse stitch patterns can also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is done in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch.
10. BLIND HEM STITCH Set machine as shown. Loosen presserfoot thumb screw and attach blind hem guide. Tighten screw. Fold material as shown and place it under foot. MW For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron hem beforehand. fight side '' 3“^ 5mm(0.
Sew carefully, guiding fold against guide so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold. (a) Correct seam. ® Needle is catching edge of fold too much. © Needle is not catching edge of fold at all. right side wrong side '. ■■ I Elastic Blind Hem Stitch For elastic materials, set machine as shown and sew in the same way as for normal blind hem stitch.
11. STRETCH SEAMS A ball-point needle is essential. Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. ® Medium-weight fabrics double knit, jersey. Apply elastic triple stitch. (b) Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. © For Very elastic fabrics spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
12. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown. By using special zipper foot with sliding adjuster, zipper sewing can be easily done without turning fabric. Loosen screw @ and set foot so that needle comes into position (b). Tighten screw. l-:w1.:'-;;:1l::.?jE^3i. y >■ Sew right side of zipper guiding fabric carefully so that right side teeth of zipper are parallel with left edge of foot. Re-set foot so that needle comes into position ©. Sew left side of zipper in the same way.
13. SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing. Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
14. PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown. For better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little. For twin needle threading see p. 1 5. Insert the quilting guide under the spring plate on the holder. Mark first line with pencil or tailor's chalk, and sew. From second line, just sew, following seam of first line using guide. Interval between seams can be adjusted by moving guide in direction of arrow.
15. QUILTING Set machine as shown. Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew. Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking.
16. SCALLOPING Set machine as shown. Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing, and sew. Trim edge 0.3 cm (1/8") away from stitching. Make notches on seam edge at evenly spaced intervals. Notches Turn two pieces to right sides out. Bring stitching line to very edge by pushing seam edge gently with your fingers, and press.
17. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. Place the patch over the worn part. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side. tAA^AAAAAAA A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip.
Darning Set machine as shown. Stretch fabric over the hoop ® or sew with free arm(g)according to the part you are going to darn. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced, stiches guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
18. APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown. Draw design on material to be used as an appligue and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it. Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material. To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift presser foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
19. EMBROIDERY Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being pulled up, reduce upper thread tension. Needle Thread No. 9 120-100 No. 11 100-80 No. 14 60-50 For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread. Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Make sure material is taut.
20. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satis factory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. Cleaning Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate. Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. Turn latches outwards. Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
Oiling Use oil manufactured specially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to part of hook where friction occurs. Open face cover and apply oil in the same way. Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty. After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part. Remove top screws © screwdriver. Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.
21. TROUBLE CHART PROBABLE CAUSE PROBLEM Breaking lower thread Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin or not drawn up correctly Lower thread tension too tight Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside the tension spring Skipping stitches Irregular stitches The material not fed correctly CORRECTION P.11, P.16 P.13 Remove lint and fluff with a cleaning brush Needle not fully inserted P. 6 Needle bent P. 6 Size or type of needle and thread not suitable for the material P.
