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CONTENTS I 1. NAMES OF PARTS......................................................................... 1 2. ACCESSORIES.................................................................................. 3 3. BEFORE SEWING............................................................................ ... 4 ... 4 Detaching Extension Table.......................................... Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord 5 Changing Foot.........................................................................
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3. BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier in ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Push lock lever to left. Open extension table in direction of arrow. Slide it off and the machine is used as a free-arm model. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs of T-shirts, blouses, etc. Do vice-versa of above steps to attach extension table.
Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot controller power cord CT) ^ and Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine, (written on a plate at back of machine) ^ Specifications vary from country to country. Switch on power to put on machine and turn on sewing light. Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use. The more you press foot controller, the faster the machine runs.
Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter © • Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you (2) Remove foot by loosening screw with screwdriver. Replace new foot and tighten screw.
Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper (a) and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point. Using defective or worn needles not only causes stitch skipping, breakage of needles or snapping of thread; it also can damage hook and needle plate.
Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and take it out. Close latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Pull out spoolpin. Put a spool on spoolpin. Draw thread from spoolpin through thread guide and pre tension device, following numb ers © @ and (D. ih Wind thread clockwise around bobbin several times. Push bobbin on to spindle. Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. Machine stops automatically when winding is full. Push bobbin to left. Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open face cover and loosen set-screw of the guide for bobbin winding, by using screw driver and adjust height.
Inserting Bobbin Place bobbin in its case with thread running in direction of arrow. Guide thread into slot (a) of bobbin case. Pulling thread to left, bring it under tension spring then to delivery eye ®.
Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount. To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver. Raise needle position. in the highest Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4") from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted. Drop Feed Lever The lever is on right side of hook.
Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot lifter. Raise take-up lever to the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Thread following numbers ©-®. Pass thread through guide ®. Lead thread either side of tension disc (2). Hook it to guide (2) from down to upwards. Thread take-up lever ®. Pass thread to guide (D from right to left, and guide ® (left one) then needle eye ®. Leave end of thread of about 1 5 cm (6").
Twin Needle Threading Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points (2), © and ®. At point (2), pass threads separatly to right and left of tension disc. At guide ®, pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide. At point ®, thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye. Leave ends of threads of about 1 5 cm (6"). n.b. When using zigzag width control, set it between 0 and 2.5. To set control above 2.
Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold end of upper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads to about 1 5 cm {6 ) and place them together under presser foot on left.
Fabric-Thread and Needle Table NEEDLE THREAD Cotton Covered Polyester, Silk, Nylon European Mercerized Cotton Cotton 70 60 Silk Nylon SHEER; Blouse Crepe, Lawn, Organdy, Taffeta 50-70 60 LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet 30 MEDIUM; Wool, Silk, Linen, Velvetten, Pique, Faille, Terrycloth HEAVY; Denim, Duck, Sailcloth FABRIC European U.S.Size Point 15x1 Style 65-70 9 Regular Silk Nylon 65-70 9 50 Silk 75-80 11 ' 30 50 Silk 80-90 11-14 ■ 30 Heavy Duty C.C.Poly.
4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. M Straight & Zigzag Stitch 1 Blind Hem Stitch 2 Elastic Blind Hem Stitch 3 Multiple Zigzag 4-7 Super Automatic Reverse Stitches D Buttonhole n.b. Always make Sure needle is in the highest position when operating dial. ■ if Stitch Length Dial : •... ■ ■ ■ ■ ' Set dial at indicating point @ according to stitch size required. For a longer stitch, turn dial downwards.
Place fabric under foot about 1 cm (0.4") inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter. Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew back wards to the edge of fabric by pushing reverse sewing button. push Release button and commence forward sewing guiding fabric by hand as it is fed. Never pull material.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for rein forcement at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished. Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravell ing, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. W' Make sure needle is in upper position when you set control. Needle Position Control Poshkin ”© Straight stitch Zigiag stitch
6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown. Determine Length Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm {1/8") for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. Determine Width Determine width according to diameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material.. Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part ® of buttonhole foot. Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot and arrow ® of foot indicates beginning line of marking. marking.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 (q2) and sew 5-6 stitches. Left side: Change pattern to 2 (zK)- Sew left side from front to back until it reaches end line. Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 (2^*) and sew 5-6 stitches. WJ Right side: Change pattern to 4 ([1“) and sew right side until it catches first bar tack. To prevent unstitching, set zigzag width at 0 and proceed for a few stitches.
Cutting Buttonholes Stick a needle through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting. Cut buttonhole along centre with buttonhole cutter. Corded Buttonholes For stretch fabrics such as knits, a corded buttonhole is effective to keep finished buttonhole in shape. Hook filler cord on top spur and lead ends of cord under foot, pull taut, and hook them to bottom notches as shown. Proceed with stitching as for regular buttonholes.
7. SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown. m Position a button and material under foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button. Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches. Stop machine when needle is in upper position. (a) Set zigzag width control to 0 and sew 3-4 stitches to prevent unstitching. OR (g) Draw out work and cut off threads. Draw thread ends through to wrong side and tie a knot.
8. OVERCASTING For light weight material; Set machine as shown. Sew carefully so that aH stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric. For thick and elastic material: Set machine as shown. Sew in the same way above.
9. OVERLOCKING Overlooking stitches make it possible to sew and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. @ For medium, thin material (B) For medium, thick material Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop outside the edge of material. In some cases overlooking stitches can be used for overcasting.
n... •-■fc ■■ T ■s ¡Mill L i' I'lM il ^ 10 j Set r ¡¡1^ 1 '1 ill lllji' ■'■1 Loosen presser foot thumb screw and attach blind hem guide. Tighten screw. Fold material as shown and place it under foot. For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron hem beforehand.
Sew carefully, guiding fold against guide so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold. @ Correct seam. (B) Needle is catching edge of fold too much. © Needle is not catching edge of fold at all. right side wrong side Elastic Blind Hem Stitch U For elastic materials, set machine as shown and sew in the same way as for normal blind hem stitch.
11. STRETCH SEAMS A bail-point needle is essential. Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. @ Medium-weight fabrics double knit, jersey. Apply elastic triple stitch. (B) Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. © F o r Very elastic fabrics spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
12. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown. By using special zipper foot with sliding adjuster, zipper sewing can be easily done without turning fabric. Loosen screw ® and set foot so that needle comes into position ■(§). Tighten screw. Sew right side of zipper guiding fabric carefully so that right side teeth of zipper are parallel with left edge of foot. Re-set foot so that needle comes into position ©. Sew left side of zipper in the same way.
13. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. Place the patch over the worn part. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side. \ A * A A A A A A y \ Aa"* ^VvV*VvVv'«yiV A * A »?i > :,'aV.v ,'v ,'y A !?r V '« V V V V V V V A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip.
Darning Set machine as shown. Stretch fabric over the hoop (D or sew with free arm® according to the part you are going to darn. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced, stiches guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
14 PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown. For better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little. For twin needle threading, see p. 14. Mark lines with pencil or tailor's chalk, and sew on lines.
15 SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing. Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
16. LAPPED SEAM SEWING Set machine as shown. Place one piece of fabric over another according to the width of stitch size. @ For non-fray fabrics. ® For easy to fray fabrics. Sew over folded area from right side.
17. SMOCKING Set machine as shown. To make a gather on fabric, sew two straight stitchmgs with stitch length 4 and very loose upper tension. Make knots in one end. Gather fabric toward knots while holding the other end of lower threads with fingers. Sew smocking gathered part. stitches on Take out threads for straight stitching after you finish sewing.
18. APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown. Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it. Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material. To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift presser foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
19. EMBROIDERY Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being pulled up, reduce upper thread tension. Needle Thread No. 9 120-100 No. 1 1 100-80 No. 14 60-50 For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread. Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Make sure material is taut.
20. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satis factory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to e cleaned and oiled once a month. Cleaning Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate. Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. Turn latches outwards. Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
Oiling Use oil manufactured specially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to part of hook where friction occurs. Open face cover and apply oil in the same way. Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty. After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part. Remove top cover by loosening screws (D and ® with large screwdriver.
21.TROUBLE CHART PROBABLE CAUSE PROBLEM Breaking lower thread Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin or not drawn up correctly Lower thread tension too tight Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside the tension spring Skipping stitches Irregular stitches The material not fed correctly CORRECTI P.10, P.1 P.12 Remove lin and fluff wi' cleaning br Needle not fully inserted P. 7 Needle bent P. 7 Size or type of needle and thread not suitable for the material P.16 Incorrect upper threading P.
PROBLEM The material puckers PROBABLE CAUSE Upper or lower thread tension too tight P.12, P.19 P.17 Stitch too long for material P.16 Thread too thick Incorrect threading of upper or lower thread Breaking needle CORRECTION P.13, P.11 P. 7 Needle not correctly inserted P. 7 Needle bent Needle clamp screw too loose P. 7 Upper thread tension too tight P.19 Needle too fine for the material P.16 Dials and levers have been changed while the needle was down in the material P.17, P.
