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N D E X Pages Accessories-.................................. 22 How to Use'............................ 23 HtSmmsrs *******.............. . *24 Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide ••—25 Quilting Guide ........................25 Attachments ................................ '33 Adjustable Cord and Zipper Foot39 Attachment Foot.....................34 Binder.....................................36 Edgestitcher........................... 34 Hemmers......................... -37-38 Rüffler....................................
FFATI|CJf=C AMn PART55 I C« I w I 1 ft.. V-i- jr% S « ft-^ ■ 1. Thread take-up lever r-% SB ! (Front View) ,}/_ j_ J_ //_............... / Fig. 1 / 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Pressure .release (Darning) Arm thread guides Bobbin winder tension Zigzag stitch width dial Zigzag wide control Blind stith lever Zigzag wide stop Buttonhole control lever Bobbin winder 11. 12. 13. 14. Hand wheel Clutch Stretch stitch control Stitch length control 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
FEATURES AND PARTS (Back View) 4. Bobbin winder tension 25. Spool pins 26. 27. 28. 29. Fig.
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE Fabric Needle No. Machine Stitches Per Inch Cotton Th read Mercerized Thread Silk or Nylon 4 6 to 8 10 to 30 Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking. denim, leatherette 3 (18) 8 to 10 30 to 40 Heavy Duty Medium heavy drapery fabric,,, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc. 2 (16) 10 to 12 40 to 60 Heavy Duty Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, shantung, etc.
A . — — • 6-......... —.... ■" ' ¡ ^ ----- — — Jtm. 1 ' © X"f i' I •' I ■ ' ' Fig. 4 WINDING THE BOBBIN Disengage the hand wheel (l, Fig. 3) from the stitching mechanism by turning the dutch (2, Fig. 3) toward you or counter clockwise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and lead thread though ■ the arm th read guide (3, Fig. 4). Run end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder (4, Fig.
'f i ____________ La ryPLTTE^ •■4 'i K) 'Fig. 6 SETTING THE NEEDLE Flat surtac of needle See Fig. 6. Raise the needle bar A to its highest shank point, turning wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the n/ needle can be inserted info clamp C. Place needle (flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a screw driver.
/-■ t- Y SLOT TENSION SPRING »■ 1 - '' .‘\ \ I\ / N ■"X ■Í •** fV •»■ L]V Fig. 8 Fig. 9 PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Raise needle bar to highest position, and slide cover plate to the left. (See 17, Fig. l) Hold the bobbin case latch, (D, Fig. 11) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C).
UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. 3. Lead the thread through the upper arm thread guides. 4. Down and between the tension discs, from right to left. 5. Draw the thread up through the check spring and with a slight tug into the hook, (See insert. Fig. 12) 6. Up and through the eye of the take-up lever from right 1o left. 7.
.. If li ^ V> % Fig. 14 SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, 13 Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot between the markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch. The number stitch length you choose is indicated by the pointer.
10 ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to the right. To decrease, turn to the left. Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn the small screw (Fig. 15) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Fig. 15 Fig. 16~A Fig. 16^B Fig.
11 ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC Genera! Sewing. Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or darner release, (B, Fig, 18) is at its lowest position and the drop feed knob is turned to High” position. Fig. 19. Sewing Thin or LightWeight Fabrics. When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or flimsy material, the pressure cap should be about I-f \ * /yy \ y^ .y-J \ »/t-> MV-JII y VJWVYII the wuy by pressing the snap lock, (A Fig.
12 PREPARING TO SEW Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. NEVER run machine without material under presser foot. place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. You are now ready to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the hand wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control.
13 STRAIGHT STITCHING o For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material, you may want to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory box. Both hove narrow needle slots. Changing the Presser Foot and Needle Plate: (1) Presser Foot (a) Loosen thumb screw (20, Fig. l) and remove zigzag presser foot. (B) Replace with straight stitch presser foot (Fig. 22-A) (2) Needle Plate (A) Slide cover plate (]8, Fig.
14 CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in place. The satin stitch (Fig. 24) which is really just a very short zigzag stitch and the basis for most embroidery, is obtained by setting stitch length (see page 9) as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action and zigzag width at, 5, (Fig. 23). To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set wimmwMmmmmi'i zigzag width stop (B, Fig. 23) to chosen stitch width number. Fig.
15 E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock at 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is complete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design. EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP V.\'r ?Vi It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when embroidering or monograming. (See Fig. 26).
16 BUTTONHOLES To establish the correct length buttonhole required add )4 inch to the cutting space for bor tacks. To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening through which the button passes is measured by adding the width "A,” and thickness *B” of the button (Fig. 28). First mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on the fabric with a basting line or tailor’s chalk. Make one or two buttonholes on scrap fabric (following directions below) to be sure the machines adjustments are correct.
17 (6) Push buttonhole control as far to the right as possible. It will then latch into position for bar tacking. Sew four or five stitches, Step 2. (7) Push buttonhole control down slightlyand manuallymove topositionbetweenNum3ers 1 and 3, being sure it is against the Stop. This will set the machine to sew in reverse. (8) Push buttonhole control as far to the right as possible, it will then latch into position for bar tack. Sew four or five stitches, Step 4.
18 BLIND STITCHING 1 1^13 2 1. Set zigzag stitch wide lock (see page 2, No. 5, Fig. 1) at 0. 2. Set buttonhole control lever (see page 2, No. 9, Fig. l) at 0. 3. The blind stitch lever (Fig. 31-B) must be at B.H. 4. When you wish to sew other stitches excepting the B.H. stitch, the B.H. lever must be always at M (Fig.
19 BLIND STITCH HEM Use standard Zigzag foot. (Fig. 32) Set stitch length control at number 3 or 4. Set buttonhole control in left hand position. Set decorative stitch pattern control for blind hemming. (4 Fig. 31 ) Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing. Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming. STEP 4 STEP 3 STEP Fig, 32 COMPLETED Fig. 33 -1 lx- ■ i T ! 5тер I. (rig. чзо; it nem wirn tu - .L . ГL_ If.
20 SEWING ON BUTTONS 1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sev/ing foot. (See Fig. 34.) 2. Push drop feed button “DOWN” all the v/ay. (Fig. 38). 3. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 0. Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the presser foot. (Fig. 35). 4. AAove Zigzag stitch width stop until the needle comes dow'n exactly over the right hand hole in the button. (Fig.
21 STRETCH STITCHING Fig. 39 To sew a reinforce seam that will stretch considerably more than the fabric used. Set stretch control (13 Fig.-39) at the “S” position, the zigzag width control (6) at “O” and stitch length control (11) at the longest stitch possible (Number 5).
22 r-* m I 'i r. §1 'is-i:' © @ ©I 1 ®I 1 ni ® ® dl) © • A® »0 ACCESSORIES 1 . plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled) 2. Package of Needles (5) 3. Large Screw Driver 4. Small Screw Driver 5. Bobbins (3) 6. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins) 7. Quilter Guide 8. Cloth Guide 9. Button Sewing Foot Fig. 34 10. Prong Type Buttonhole Foot 11. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing 12. Narrow Hemmer 13. Thumb Screw 14.
23 HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES Narrow Hemmer: With needle at its highest position replace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 40) being sure to tighten, it securely in place. Set blind stitch lever in the M position, and zigzag stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit. For a plain narrow hem make a 14, inch double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric.
24 LACE TRIMMED HEM To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle (Fig. 43) sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll. Rickrack may be used in the same way. > ■f LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING Hold lace M inch from raw edge on right hand side Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 44) roll over and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed the of fabric. let hem ■ig.
25 QUILTING GUIDE Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight or decorative stitching. Attach standard presser foot. Slip U shaped holder on guide under presser foot thumb screw from the back and tighten screw (Fig. 47). Adjust the curved bar for the distance desired be tween rows of stitches and set so it presses slightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the pre vious stitching line, successive rows will be at equal distance apart. (Fig. 50).
26 Fig. 53 Fig. 52 MAINTENANCE CARE AND YOUR MACHINE OF HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE Use only a good sewing machine oil, do not use any com mon household oils. Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it op erating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sew ing you do. Once a year oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by the arrows on Figs. 52, 53 and 54. Avoid over oiling. * Fig.
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (See Fig. 55 and 56) The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes ..... clogged with loose threads and lint, (his will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows; 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head bock on its hinges. 2. Remove bobbin case. 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward Fig.
28 ADJUSTING AND CHANGING “V” BELT Fig. 58 Fig. 59 Following are the instructions for adjusting and changing the “V” belt; (1) Remove three screws holding rear cover (Fig. 58) by tipping it out at the bottom and pivoting around the hand wheel away from the front of the machine. up to loosen belt and (2) To adjust “V” belt, loosen screws (A, Fig. 59) and move bracket B down to tighten. (3) To remove “V” belt: (A) Remove top cover. (C' Fin (B) I con (C) Loosen screws “a” (Fig.
29 TROUBLE CHART T rouble Probable Cause If Machine Thread or lint in Binds raceway Correction 1—With take up lever in highest position, tilt head back on hinges and remove bobbin case. LINT CLEANER RACE HOOK 2 — Turn clamps outward and remove race cover. 3— Remove hook. 4— Clean thread and lint from all parts, includ ing. race. 5 — Run a drop of oil along rim of hook. 6— Replace hook, then race cover. Snap clamps into place.
30 T rouble Skipping S ritches Irregular Stitches Uneven St itches Correction Probable Cause Bent needle Discard and replace. Needle placed incorrectly in clamp See instruction' page N0,6. Too fine a needle for thread being used See needle and thread chart, page No. 4. Upper thread tension too loose Tighten upper tension. Improper threading See threading instruction, page N0.8. Bobbin not wound evenly Rewind bobbin.
31 T rouble Upper Thread Breaking Material Puckering Probable Cause ‘ Correction Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page No. 8, and rethread machine. Too much tension Loosen tension on upper thread by turning thread tension knob to lower number. Starting with take-up in incorrect position Always start sewing with take-up lever in highest position. Improper setting of needle Refer to needle setting instruction, see page No. 6.
32 Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories described earlier in this book. The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments that have been designed specifically for your machine. They are available at modest cost from your dealer. if your dealer cannot supply you with these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your machine.
33 SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE L- ; - -. ~y. f'' ft9 iM «1 ,-i - - 1 ynj i part f} ::i #1403 part PART #1873 #4990 Cording & Zipper Foot Darning Spring Ruffler 51 5 part PART #82528 Attachmenf Foof .
34 ATTACHMENTS Be sure the needle positioning 1« extreme left hand position. the ATTACHMENT FOOT In •'.&» mers, y Fig. 60 EDGESTITCHER The edgestitcher is used in making dainty lace insertions, edgings and piping. The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in sewing together various pieces of material. If you want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace and tucked strips together, place the piece of material that will be on top in. slot 1 (Fig. 62) and the lower fabric in slot 4.
35 Be sure to draw the lace and material under the needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace slightly. Rick-rack can be sewn to the edge of the material in the same manner.
36 BINDER This attachment folds bias binding and applies it to the edge of material in one operation. Slots on scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercially folded bias binding. The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut inch wide. FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 69) Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding binder to right or left.
37 THE SET OF HEMMERS Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer inplace, ' f .- 't 4 t . hold top thread loosely and turnhandwheel onefull turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. G rasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontal ly under hemmer toward back. Bobbin threadwill catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hem mer. Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, Fig. 71 hold at each end of fold.
38 HEMMER SET
39 THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT This attachment is used to make and insert covered cording, and to sew in zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either right or left of needle. CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen thumb s c re w and set foot so needle is centered in needle hole. Machine baste cord in place (Fig. 78—79). Fig. 79 To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable foot so needle stitches closer to cord, and on edge of base fabric.
40 ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT = r-" '••‘■ 'rfi ‘*/ ’¿i *1*'* ' “• - , ' - ’ I f e . - i Fig.
41 RUFFLER >:.? ! I¡>~ ■Vi,., .. 4 Fig. 84 ■ Fig. 85 Fig. 86 The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress etc.
42 RÜFFLER Fig. 87 Fig.
43 SEWING TIPS when a dainty hair line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam allowance that would ordinarily show through is eliminated by following the seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch. Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press. \ X '»V. Fig. 93 EVENLY SPACED BUTTONHOLES To make a row of buttonholes evenly spaced and accurately stitched, draw the outlines for the buttonholes on one long strip of tissue paper.
44 SHAPING DARTS IN INTERFACINGS Fig. 95 Center Cut interfacing clown center between dart lines. Over lap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line fro m point to wide end of d a rt. T rim both raw edges close to stitching. g. 96 Fig. 97 SEWING ON SHEER MATERIALS Most fabrics need to be guided only in front of the presser foot as shown at left. Many flimsy sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc., require support while being stitched.
45 OVERCASTING WORN EDGES Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabric as the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just pass over the edge of the fabric on the right (Fig. 98). r- % n PATCHING Machine baste patch into place under hole or worn area which has been cut away. Then zigzag stitch the patch into place by overcasting around edge of hole (Fig. 99). Fig. 98 Fig.
46 PLAIN BOUND BUTTONHOLE -S " ’ Cut straight or bias strips of fabric l " wia'e I and longer than the desired buttonholes. Place right sides together over positions for buttonholes. Mark exact length of each but tonhole in center of each strio ole ip place through center of the marking. Begin to pm I stitch at the pin; marking an oblong box above and below the line }/i" across each end. Run a few stitches beyond starting point to reinforce. View 1 .
47 INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN PORTABLE CASE Please read these important instructions which were written to aid you in placing your new sewing machins in its portable case. First, remove the foot control which is fastened inside the base to avoid damage in shipping. After unpacking the sewing machine unit, being certain to take out the Instruction book, guarantee and accessory box, lay the unit face down on a table. You will see two clamping screws A entering head hinge holes B on the underside of the back.
48 PORTABLE BASE C \ ZS- ----- — /• \ AB UNDER SIDE OF MACHINE “A Fig.102 Fig. 1 01 TO ASSEMBIE LEGS ON ^ See Fig. 1 03 CABINETS Place cabinet body upside down on smooth level surface ( use packing material as cushion to prevent iIIfrvL-f i iI n^ 2. Slip leg into position between corner blocks and down as far as it will go with stud fitting into slot or hole in metal bracket. 3. Add wing nut and tighten securely.
49 INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN CABINET 1. Back off both head hinge set screws until head hinge hole is clear. 2. Tilt head hinge tongues up and back as far as they will go. 3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges - - making sure tongues are inserted as far as they can go into head hinge holes. 4. LIFT FLAP Allow the head to rest in its tiltedback position. 5. Tighten both set screws securely with screw driver. 6. Plug electrical leads into sockets located inside cabinet.
