highlights of quick, easy 1. Drill holes for risers and connecting piping. 2. Nail baseboard to wall. For faster installation, use “T-Shot” Nailing Tool, or, use power screw gun. 3. Join the elements to risers and each other and rest on brackets. 4. Drop piping under doorways.
Slant/Fin installation 5. Snap front panel back in place. 6. Join baseboard lengths with splice plates. 7. Snap on inside corners and outside corners. 9. Slide on end caps for finishing touch. 8. Install wall trims at partitions.
® easiest kind of heating to install (and the most beautiful) You’ll find that pre-assembled Slant/Fin baseboard is surprisingly easy to handle. With Slant/Fin precut lengths and telescoping accessories you can leave your hacksaw at home. All parts snap together securely at the touch of your fingers, and they stay together. You end up with a neat, wall-to-wall installation of beautiful and efficient baseboard heating, without a shortened temper or bleeding hands.
variety of stock lengths and adjustable accessories assure neat fit without cutting... Slant/Fin baseboard units come in a wide variety of standard lengths.The Slant/Fin accessories simply snap over and behind the baseboard units permitting them to slide left or right. The amount of overlap can be adjusted from only 1/2” to almost the full width of the accessory. This way you can virtually “stretch” or compress standard lengths of baseboard and accessories to fit any length of wall without cutting them.
plan your piping... Here are examples of three basic piping systems, shown with and without options for zoning. 1. SERIES LOOP Series loop--single zone (The simplest, most economical system to install.) The Slant/Fin baseboard damper provides individual room control. A single circuit runs from the boiler to the first run of baseboard, continues from there to the next room and so on. The last baseboard unit in the series is connected to the return at the boiler.
2. SPLIT LOOP Provides more even heat distribution and the option of separate zone control. The house is “divided” into two (or more) sections, each with its own circuit. Each circuit draws water of the same temperature from a central trunk line. Balancing valves should be installed in each circuit at return end just before entering circulator. 3. ONE PIPE WITH DIVERTER TEES Permits individual room shut-off or thermostatic control.
figure out what material to order... First take wall to wall measurements of all rooms from the plan or by actual field measurement. Next, calculate the heat loss for each room, using the IBR or equivalent method. Then translate the output required into the list of materials needed for each room and wall. Solid line indicates baseboard. Broken line indicates piping below floor, or in “enclosure only”. NOTE: Often a shorter-than-wall length of radiation is called for.
begin by drilling riser holes... The riser connects sub-floor supply tubing to the baseboard. The diameter of the riser hole and the location of the hole with respect to the walls will vary depending on the type of baseboard you’re using.
nail it up... The pre-assembled baseboard goes right from carton to wall with Slant/Fin’s “T-Shot” Nailing Tool (or power screw gun). You can load the Nailing Tool with any nail up to 5⁄16” round head. Just place the baseboard against the wall, and slip the Nailing Tool between the damper and front panel. Hit the drive rod with the hammer and that’s it. Add another row of nails below the front panel.
Provide for expansion with HYDRO/TITE expansion couplings on long straight runs. All piping expands when heated. In shorter runs, the movement of the risers in their holes will take care of expansion. But on longer runs, it’s wise to install an expansion compensator to prevent strains at the joints and buckling of the elements. Install a Hydro/Tite at the center of a long run. FLOW DIRECTION must be as shown, to keep sludge from clogging the seals inside the Hydro/Tite.
replace front cover... BASELINE 2000, FINE/LINE 30 & MULTI/PAK 80 Place lower edge underneath lower bracket. Lift slightly and press upper edge forward with thumb till panel snaps into place. FINE/LINE 15 Place top edge of front panel on bracket with panel in “up” position, swing down. Important: to lock the panel to the bracket, pull cover outward away from bracket, while swinging down. Push bottom of panel to engage lower bracket. snap on the accessories...
FILLER SLEEVES (cont’d) 1. 2. 3. When mounting the baseboard to the wall, be sure the filler sleeve will overlap each baseboard unit by at least 1⁄2”. Slip in the back piece so that the bent edge rests in the bottom channel of the baseboard. Nail the back piece to the wall to hold it in place. Move both dampers to half-open position. Hold the damper sleeve with the crimped edge away from you. Hook it’s front edge over the front edges of the dampers.
fine points, for a perfect job RISER-RINGS slip around tubing where it passes through flooring. They provide neat, clean, sanitary seal and absorb expansion squeaks and vibration noises. May be installed after connections are made. FAST/FLEX CONNECTORS can be hand-formed to fit varied piping problems. Use them to fit around obstructions, compensate for misalignment, soak up vibration and expansion at turns, eliminate many solder joints. Cannot be used as an expansion compensator.
fine points using enclosure only... Use Slant/Fin hanger to support the bare tubing at the same height as adjoining heating elements. Insert the short hook of the hanger as shown. Install from the left side, so that the large hook (which holds the tubing) faces the rear panel. when a normal loop can’t be run... In some installations, it’s not possible to drop the return line below the floor. In this case, run the return tubing within the baseboard enclosure.
...wasn’t that easy? ©Slant/Fin Corp. 1994. Printed in USA 103. Publication No. BB-40 www.slantfin.com ® America’s No. 1 brand of baseboard convection heating SLANT/FIN CORPORATION, Greenvale, N.Y.