Installation Instructions: How to Install the Tahoe Slipfence STEP 1 – Dig Post holes 9' POST SETTING for a 6' high Fence Dig 8" diameter post holes at least 36” deep and fill the bottom with approximately 4” of gravel so that the hole depths are at least 32" deep from the gravel the ground level. 8' POST SETTING for a 6' high fence Dig 8" diameter post holes at least 24” deep and fill the bottom with approximately 4” of gravel so that the hole depths are at least 20" deep from the gravel the ground level.
The reason for the gravel in the bottom of the hole is to allow the post to drain if by any chance water or condensation gets into the center of the hollow post. TIPS Most areas of Canada and the USA only require a 36” hole. However, in colder climates where the frost line deepens, another 12” deeper hole may be required ie. 48”deep. If you are installing in this colder area please call TAHOE Slip-Fence or your local Tahoe Slipfence dealer to order 10’ long Fence-Posts for a 6’ high fence.
NOTES If you are installing a 5’ high fence then dig 48” deep holes and make sure the 9’ fence posts are only 5 ‘4” above the ground level, OR order 8’ posts from your TAHOE Slipfence Dealer and only dig 36” holes. If you are installing an 8’ high fence in a non frost climate then make sure to order the Tahoe Slipfence 10' Posts (actually 124" long) and dig up to 36” deep holes, lay in your gravel and when inserting the post make sure your post are 24" into the concrete leaving 100” above the ground level.
NOTES DO NOT pour concrete into the post-hole and then insert post into concrete! This will eliminate any repair that you may need to do later. It also may offset your posts from being exactly 76” high from the ground. It is imperative to set the posts in concrete and be certain to: a) Level post both ways b) Spread 8 feet apart, (or shorter), to centers. c) Measure 76” to top of post from the ground level.
inside to inside. TIPS If you run into rocks or roots or some other obstruction wile digging your post holes that may prevent you from centering the posts exactly 8’ apart, you can always make a post section shorter than 8’ and cut the stringers, then go back to regular 8 foot sections. NEVER make fence sections between posts longer than 8’ from the center of two fence-posts as you cannot make the stringers longer than 8 feet.
into once tapped through the aluminum post This will keep the gate strong and true much longer than normal. TIPS If there is rain in the forecast before you are to complete your fence project, it is best to cover the hollow opening at the top of your post during construction. You can do this by placing the post-caps onto the tops of the posts temporarily (do not tap all the way on or they are very difficult to remove), so that no rain can enter the center of your fence posts during construction.
NOTES !!!!! It is at this point that if you are running a string line to follow the grade instead of stepping your fence, that you should measure approximately 12" up from the ground to the bottom of your bottom End bracket collar and hand tighten the bottom bracket. Then measure 51”" from the top of the bottom bracket collar to the top of your top bracket collar. These two brackets are now your string line starting points. Pull the string-line tight along 5 posts down the fence line.
up from the ground on a post 5 sections down the fence line. (We recommend only 5 sections at a time so your string line doesn't sag), and these will be your tie on points for the other end of your string line. NOTES Do not tighten this down with a wrench yet as there may need to be an adjustment to the height when the stringer is placed onto the bracket. TIPS Make sure that the dome side of your carriage bolt that are inserted at this stage are on all on the same side of the fence for all posts.
NOTES Middle Brackets will have two short carriage bolts and grip nuts to hold the bracket onto the post temporarily until the Stringer has been placed on and leveled. TIPS Make sure that the dome side of your carriage bolt that are inserted at this stage are on all on the same side of the fence for all posts. This will be the side of the fence that will have the ripped half board on either end of the fence section.
NOTES There will be a half sized fence-board hole on one side of each stringer, make sure that these half board holes are in line with both the top and bottom stringers so the boards will slip in nicely through each board hole in the top and bottom stringer. Note: Once you place the half board holes on one side of the fence it is advisable to keep the half board holes on that same side of the fence to maintain a clean consistent look to both sides of the fence throughout the whole project.
If you are installing a " Follow the grade" style fence and have a string-line stretched from among 5 sections then at this point you would align one stringer with the string-line and measure the other stringer to be spaced 51" apart from the top of your bottom stringer to the top of your top stringer. This will achieve an even space between top and bottom stringers all along your fence line project. NOTES The best tool to be used here is a half-inch open end socket wrench.
STEP 10 – Fasten Stringers Once the brackets have been leveled and tightened onto the fence posts you can now fasten the stringer to the bracket seat on the post bracket with the carriage bolt, (the larger of the two in the bracket kit), and grip nut provided to both top and bottom End and Middle brackets in your fence project and tighten.
TIPS Do not over-tighten. If you are following the grade in the property, the Stringers can be elevated and or dipped by approximately up to 30 degrees without having any fastening issues. Just tighten down the carriage bolt as you would normally if the fence line were straight. More than 30 degrees up our down we advise stepping the fence.
a nice straight look per section. NOTES You can eyeball this section but it makes it much quicker and easier if you are able to lay the 2 x 6 on the ground for your fence boards to stop while inserting them through the top stringers. STEP 12- Slip in fence boards (pickets) Slip in the fence-boards through the Board-holes in the top stringer first and then through the board holes in the bottom stringer, (leaving approximately 1.
If following the grade, make sure that the fence board tops are the same distance from the stringer all the way along the fence section for a nice even looking fence project. NOTES The reason that the board-holes are larger than the fence boards is so that when you need a fence section to drop below level for a swale or climb above level for a hill you are still able to insert fence boards level up to a 30 degree incline or decline.
STEP 13 – Fasten Boards to Stringers Once all of the boards in a section have been inserted, through the board holes, Start with your centre board between the posts. Give the top stringer a little lift with your 2 fingers and fasten the fence-board to the Top stringer then do the same with the bottom stringer, little lift with two fingers then fasten the bottom of the board to the bottom stringer.
NOTES ALWAYS screw in both top and bottom screws in each fence-board before fastening the next fence board. following this instruction will eliminate any sag in the stringer. 2 top, 2 bottom, 2 top, 2, bottom... and so on, for each board. TIPS IMPORTANT: DO NOT SCREW IN ALL OF THE TOPS OF THE FENCE BOARDS AND THEN ALL OF THE BOTTOMS OF THE FENCE BOARDS ! This will create a SAG in the Fence section.
STEP 14 – Tap on Post Cap Once all of your Fence boards have been installed you can trim your fence posts if required to approximately 2" above the height of your fence boards to allow for a 1" post cap collar and 1" gap between the top of the fence board and the cap once installed.
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