Operation Manual

Using the chainsaw - Cutting to length, - Cutting branches which are under tension
ENGLISH 29
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7.1 Cutting to length
• Make sure that you have a secure footing.
• Clean the area which is to be cut of any foreign bodies like sand, stones, nails etc. Foreign bodies
can cause dangerous kickback.
• Loose wooden objects must be firmly secured, ideally with a sawhorse.
• The wood must nut be held in place with a foot or by another person.
• Round timber must be secured so that they cannot rotate.
Release the chain brake,
• Apply full throttle and move the chainsaw close
to the cutting point,
• position and press the bumper spikes onto the
object you wish to saw (a),
• then – and not before – use a pivoting
movement (around the point at which the
bumper spikes have been positioned) to move
the guide bar downwards (b) and start the cut.
(schematic diagram)
7.2 Cutting branches which are under tension
The increased tendency for the chainsaw to become trapped means that there is a greater
risk of kickback
[See also Chapter 6, "Hazards caused by kickback”]
.
• First cut around ¼ of the diameter on the compression side (symbol: " # #), but be careful as
there is a risk of the saw being trapped.
• Then proceed carefully and make a cut at the tension side (symbol: #
$ ").
• On thick trunks which are under a lot of tension offset the cut to one side.
Trunk under tension
on the upper side:
Danger: The tree
will spring back in
an upward direction!
Trunk under tension
on the underside:
Danger: The tree
will spring back in
a downward direction!
Thick trunks and high
tension:
Danger: The
tree will spring
back suddenly and
with considerable
force. Also watch out
for the root clump
tipping back.
Trunk under lateral
tension:
Danger: The
tree will spring
back to one side!
• Always stand on the compression side if the tree is under lateral tension.
• If the saw becomes pinched in the cut, stop the engine and lift the trunk with a bar or other lever, or
change its position to open up the cutting gap.