Installation Guide

How to Install
Artificial Grass
I. Sub-Base Preparation
A. Cut any existing grass with a weed eater to the soil. Remove debris. Adjust soil to desired
grade and compact.
B. Add 2" of 3/8" minus gravel screenings, meaning your gravel supplier has passed gravel
through a 3/8" screen so only the smallest pieces pass through. This mix has small particles
as well as gravel up to 3/8" and every size in between. You'll need about 12 pounds of
gravel per square foot. Use a concrete rake or drag a 3-foot 2x4 across the gravel to level it
where needed. Do not use pea gravel or sand. This gravel base will promote drainage and
provide a smooth surface.
C. Compact the gravel base with a water-filled roller or plate compactor rented from your
home store. Use a hand tamper for small areas.
II. Cutting and Seaming
A. Artificial grass comes in 15-foot wide rolls and the manufacturing process causes blades
to lean in one direction (the grain). Before you cut grass into pieces, plan your cuts so
when all pieces are laid side by side their grain always faces the same direction to avoid
obvious seams. Plan ahead by making a drawing of your lawn area to calculate how to cut
grass to keep the grain in one direction.
B. Synthetic grass can be cut with a razor knife or carpet knife (best if cut from the back
side).
C. Grass pieces are joined with seam tape. Click to read How To Seam Artificial Grass Turf
with photos showing how to use StarPro seam tape and tubes of Liquid Nails Fuze It All
Surface Construction Adhesive . Let adhesive is dry before staking grass in the next step.
III. Staking Grass
A. For soft or sandy soil, nail the grass edges every 6 to 12 inches using nylon or plastic 8”
landscape spikes or 6” metal nails that are galvanized to deter rusting. For hard soil you can
nail edges every 12 inches using landscape spikes or galvanized 4” nails. Add extra nails in
high traffic areas.

Summary of content (2 pages)