User Manual
12
freezing temperatures, it must be drained. Water, if left in
the tank and allowed to freeze, will expand and damage
the solar water heater.
1. Turn “OFF” the electrical supply to the solar water heater.
Make sure the electrical supply to the solar water heater
is turned OFF. Failure to heed this will result in the
possibility of DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY OR
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
2. Open a nearby hot water faucet until the water is no
longer hot, then turn off the cold water supply and open
the drain valve, leaving the hot water faucet open.
3. The drain valve must be left open during the shut-down
period. Once the solar water heater is drained close the
hot water faucet.
ELEMENT
In some water areas, scale or mineral deposits will build up
on heating elements. This build up may cause a rumbling
noise. Follow the element replacement directions to remove
the elements from the tank. Soaking in vinegar and scraping
will remove the mineral deposit. Be careful not to bend the
element.
ELEMENT REPLACEMENT
Replacement elements must (1) be the same voltage and
(2) no greater wattage than listed on the model and rating
plate afxed to the solar water heater.
1. Turn OFF the electrical supply to the solar water heater.
Make sure the electrical supply to the solar water heater
is turned OFF. Failure to heed this will result in the
possibility of DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY OR
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
2. Drain the solar water heater. Follow the directions for
draining.
3. Take off the access panel and take off the access panel
and remove the insulation. Disconnect the wires from the
heating element terminals.
4. Use an element wrench to remove the element and gasket.
You should always use a new gasket when you replace the
element.
5. Install new element.
6. Reconnect the wires as they were.
7. Fill the tank , following the filling directions on page 9. Fill
the tank completely with water, BEFORE you turn on the
electric supply.
ANODE
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life
of the water heater by protecting the glass-lined tank from
corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water temperatures,
high hot water usage, hydronic heating devices, and water
softening methods can increase the rate of anode rod
depletion. Once the anode rod is depleted, the tank will
start to corrode, eventually developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the
anode rod and the water. The most common complaint
associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell”
produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas
dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod
permanently as it may void any warranties. A special anode
rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor
problems. The water supply system may require special
filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to
successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease
the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of
three years and annually thereafter until the condition of
the anode rod dictates its replacement. NOTE: artificially
softened water requires the anode rod to be inspected
annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted
anode rod:
• The majority of the rod’s diameter is less than 3/8”.
• Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod shows signs of either
or both it should be replaced. NOTE:
Whether re-installing or replacing the
anode rod, check for any leaks and
immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1. Turn off power supply to the water
heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and
open a nearby hot water faucet to
depressurize the water tank.
3. Drain approximately 5 gallons
of water from tank. (Refer to
“Draining and Flushing” for proper
procedures). Close drain valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads
and install new anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open a nearby hot water
faucet to purge air from water system. Check for any
leaks and immediately correct any if found.
7. Restart the water heater as directed in this manual.
See the Storage Tank Repair Parts section for anode
rod location.
TEFLON® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De
Nemours and Company.
Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water system that
has not been used for a long period of time (generally two
weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and
explosive. To prevent the possibility of bodily injury under
these conditions, open the hot water faucet for several
minutes at the kitchen sink before any electrical appliances
which are connected to the hot water system are used (such
as a dishwasher or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is
present, there will probably be an unusual sound similar
to air escaping through the pipe as the hot water faucet is
opened. There must be no smoking or open flame near
the faucet at the time it is opened.
WATER HEATER SOUNDS
1. The solar water heater is equipped with an immersion
heating element for fastest recovery. If the solar water
heater occasionally makes noises this is not a defect or a
safety hazard.
2. Lime or scale has accumulated on the heating element
causing a hissing sound. Element scale removal can be
accomplished by using vinegar or by scraping.
Figure 9.